Winter Watering

As fall turns to winter, many gardeners enter hibernation mode. The garden colors have faded, annuals have died, and perennials are muted in dormancy. With gardens quiet and at rest, it's easy for a gardener to enter the same pattern. This relaxation and lack of action can have a devastating effect on plants.

Many tree, grass, shrub, and perennial roots remain viable during cold weather. That means they still need water. In many regions snow fall and occasional rain are enough to provide adequate moisture but during and after prolonged bouts of dry weather or drought it's possible and likely that soil can dry out and the roots will be damaged. Any plant with a shallow root system is at threat and supplemental watering becomes a requirement if you want your plants to survive winter.

Lawns can be particularly susceptible to winter kill, the damage or death of plants in winter. Most cool season grasses can handle cold temperatures and snow cover, but when they encounter desiccating winds and sustained warm winter temperatures, dormant or semi-dormant turf grass can be injured and killed.

Light snow may not be enough for lawns

Newly-planted trees and shrubs are also susceptible to injury in the same weather conditions. They typically require more water than established plants until their root systems become strong enough to sustain them, a period that takes one to two years, and dry winter conditions can be deadly.

Perennials, particularly new transplants, that are exposed to winds and full sun can quickly dry out. Potted perennials are especially at risk.

Daisies can remain alive and green throughout winter

Watering in late fall, winter, and early spring should be a regular part of your gardening activities. Heavy snowfall mitigates the need, but watering may still be necessary. Snow in cold weather actually holds less moisture than commonly believed. Ten inches of snow at the peak of winter only holds about one inch of water. If your storms drop an inch or two of snow, there is hardly any moisture present and when brief snows are followed by long periods with no snow plants are effectively exposed to desert conditions.

Not every day is a good watering day, even if plants need it. You should only water when the outside air temperature is above 40F degrees (4C). The soil should not be frozen or covered with snow.

Also, try to water around noon. The air is above freezing and that will allow the water time to soak into the soil and avoid the possibility of freezing into an ice layer at night. Compacted soil, typical in many lawns, may need a second watering to ensure water soaks into the soil without running off.

Watering slowly by hand is usually the best method to help ensure the water soaks in. Soaker hoses and drip systems may be good during the warm season but in winter any residual water can freeze quickly, thaw slowly, and render them ineffective. A sprinkler on a hose works well for lawns, but be sure that the hose is completely drained after use or you'll encounter the same problem when you reach for it again.

Look closely at your landscape to identify areas that need supplemental winter water. Areas with south-facing walls can dry out quickly due to reflective heat. Snow can remain under the shade of a tree, but the roots can extend well beyond that into dry zones. High spots can receive more sun and wind and be the first to dry. Note where the snow melts first and that will probably be the same spot that needs extra water first. Mulched plants usually need less water but when the soil is dry beneath the mulch watering is needed.

Generally, trees need about ten gallons (38 liters) for each inch (2.5 cm) diameter of the trunk. That means a four-inch thick (10 cm) tree requires forty gallons (150 liters) of water. Thankfully that amount only needs to be supplied once a month in winter; young trees may need two waterings. This ensures the water soaks in to the depth that the roots are growing in an area encompassing the drip zone and beyond. This is a total amount of water and can be reduced by the level of snow or rain.

Small, established shrubs (less than three feet or one meter high) require about five gallons (19 liters) of water per month. The amount increases to about 18 gallons (68 liters) to shrubs taller than six feet or two meters. Newly-planted shrubs need twice that amount.

Many established perennials can handle dry conditions for prolonged cold periods but when sustained warm winter days combine with dry weather, watering is advised. Potted plants will dry out faster and should be the first to receive supplemental water. The amount of water varies with the size of the plant so provide a good soaking once or twice a month. Plants that you put in the ground in fall will probably need at least twice that much.

Some herbs can stay green in winter after others are dead

You don't have to water in winter. Many plants have naturally adapted to varying winter conditions. But your garden plants may not be native to your region and probably don't have those natural adaptations. If you choose to avoid winter watering you're also choosing to place those plants under stress that can cause damage and death.

I've talked with many people who find large patches of turf dead in the spring. Others wonder why so many of their flowers or shrubs don't survive the winter. All around town I see trees where only half is alive and growing. This can all be attributed to winter kill. Sure, I live in a region with harsh, dry winters, but the solution for me and so many others is supplemental watering.

It takes extra effort to pull the hose out on a cool day, spend the time to water each plant, thoroughly drain the hose afterward, and put it all away, but for the two or three times it may be necessary over the course of winter it can save countless hours later. Pruning unnecessarily dead and damaged branches, replacing flowers and sod, and removing dried-out bushes is work that few gardeners look forward to doing. A simple application of water when plants need it most, in winter, can be a life saver, literally.

As fall turns to winter, many gardeners enter hibernation mode. The garden colors have faded, annuals have died, and perennials are muted in dormancy. With gardens quiet and at rest, it's easy for a gardener to enter the same pattern. This relaxation and lack of action can have a devastating effect on plants.

Many tree, grass, shrub, and perennial roots remain viable during cold weather. That means they still need water. In many regions snow fall and occasional rain are enough to provide adequate moisture but during and after prolonged bouts of dry weather or drought it's possible and likely that soil can dry out and the roots will be damaged. Any plant with a shallow root system is at threat and supplemental watering becomes a requirement if you want your plants to survive winter.

Lawns can be particularly susceptible to winter kill, the damage or death of plants in winter. Most cool season grasses can handle cold temperatures and snow cover, but when they encounter desiccating winds and sustained warm winter temperatures, dormant or semi-dormant turf grass can be injured and killed.

Light snow may not be enough for lawns

Newly-planted trees and shrubs are also susceptible to injury in the same weather conditions. They typically require more water than established plants until their root systems become strong enough to sustain them, a period that takes one to two years, and dry winter conditions can be deadly.

Perennials, particularly new transplants, that are exposed to winds and full sun can quickly dry out. Potted perennials are especially at risk.

Daisies can remain alive and green throughout winter

Watering in late fall, winter, and early spring should be a regular part of your gardening activities. Heavy snowfall mitigates the need, but watering may still be necessary. Snow in cold weather actually holds less moisture than commonly believed. Ten inches of snow at the peak of winter only holds about one inch of water. If your storms drop an inch or two of snow, there is hardly any moisture present and when brief snows are followed by long periods with no snow plants are effectively exposed to desert conditions.

Not every day is a good watering day, even if plants need it. You should only water when the outside air temperature is above 40F degrees (4C). The soil should not be frozen or covered with snow.

Also, try to water around noon. The air is above freezing and that will allow the water time to soak into the soil and avoid the possibility of freezing into an ice layer at night. Compacted soil, typical in many lawns, may need a second watering to ensure water soaks into the soil without running off.

Watering slowly by hand is usually the best method to help ensure the water soaks in. Soaker hoses and drip systems may be good during the warm season but in winter any residual water can freeze quickly, thaw slowly, and render them ineffective. A sprinkler on a hose works well for lawns, but be sure that the hose is completely drained after use or you'll encounter the same problem when you reach for it again.

Look closely at your landscape to identify areas that need supplemental winter water. Areas with south-facing walls can dry out quickly due to reflective heat. Snow can remain under the shade of a tree, but the roots can extend well beyond that into dry zones. High spots can receive more sun and wind and be the first to dry. Note where the snow melts first and that will probably be the same spot that needs extra water first. Mulched plants usually need less water but when the soil is dry beneath the mulch watering is needed.

Generally, trees need about ten gallons (38 liters) for each inch (2.5 cm) diameter of the trunk. That means a four-inch thick (10 cm) tree requires forty gallons (150 liters) of water. Thankfully that amount only needs to be supplied once a month in winter; young trees may need two waterings. This ensures the water soaks in to the depth that the roots are growing in an area encompassing the drip zone and beyond. This is a total amount of water and can be reduced by the level of snow or rain.

Small, established shrubs (less than three feet or one meter high) require about five gallons (19 liters) of water per month. The amount increases to about 18 gallons (68 liters) to shrubs taller than six feet or two meters. Newly-planted shrubs need twice that amount.

Many established perennials can handle dry conditions for prolonged cold periods but when sustained warm winter days combine with dry weather, watering is advised. Potted plants will dry out faster and should be the first to receive supplemental water. The amount of water varies with the size of the plant so provide a good soaking once or twice a month. Plants that you put in the ground in fall will probably need at least twice that much.

Some herbs can stay green in winter after others are dead

You don't have to water in winter. Many plants have naturally adapted to varying winter conditions. But your garden plants may not be native to your region and probably don't have those natural adaptations. If you choose to avoid winter watering you're also choosing to place those plants under stress that can cause damage and death.

I've talked with many people who find large patches of turf dead in the spring. Others wonder why so many of their flowers or shrubs don't survive the winter. All around town I see trees where only half is alive and growing. This can all be attributed to winter kill. Sure, I live in a region with harsh, dry winters, but the solution for me and so many others is supplemental watering.

It takes extra effort to pull the hose out on a cool day, spend the time to water each plant, thoroughly drain the hose afterward, and put it all away, but for the two or three times it may be necessary over the course of winter it can save countless hours later. Pruning unnecessarily dead and damaged branches, replacing flowers and sod, and removing dried-out bushes is work that few gardeners look forward to doing. A simple application of water when plants need it most, in winter, can be a life saver, literally.

Too Much Rain in the Garden

Every year has its memorable weather events and this one isn't disappointing in that respect. From record snow to record tornadoes to record floods to record heat, the United States is going to long remember 2011. While many of these events affect different regions at different times, each of us has to deal with some type of weather adversity in our gardens on a regular basis.

A short while ago I was writing about drought and the effects of overly-dry conditions. Since then the monsoon season began early and rain became a common occurrence. Last week Colorado Springs set a new record for most rainfall in one day; 2.3 inches fell in the afternoon. Just when I was dealing with irrigation issues to try and keep my plants watered, I suddenly had to deal with drainage issues to try and keep my plants from drowning.

Drainage holes weren't enough in this bird feeder

I'm always advocating steady observation in the garden. We like to garden in typical ways on typical days, but should take full advantage of extremes. Whether extremely dry or extremely wet, we should stop and pay attention to how our gardens and plants are reacting. When we are able to modify our actions effectively for the unique events, daily activities become downright easy.

My latest dilemma arose due to saturated soil. As part of my analysis of the soil in my vegetable garden, I realized I have an expansive layer of clay about a foot down. To overcome this problem I brought in a few truckloads of amended soil. That raised the surface level to offer plant roots more room to grow before encountering the clay. In dry conditions that solution works well but after days of torrential rain the upper soil is soaked and drainage becomes virtually nonexistent when the water hits the clay level.

In my numerous raised beds, I brought in new soil and amended it well. As I've described previously, compost and organic matter act as little sponges to absorb water and help keep the soil moist. That reduces the need for daily watering during dry days. During the monsoon season the excessive rain and vertical sides on the beds create a bathtub effect that can hold in the water and the organic sponges keep it there.

So much rain wasn't good for young plants

Soggy, saturated soil will kill plants in time. The key to dealing with that is to recognize it as a problem. On normal days, pooling water between my rows of plants isn't an issue because it will gradually seep into the soil and nourish roots. After successive days of rain, pooling water is a concern because if it remains above the surface for long periods of time that identifies the waterlogged state below the surface as extreme. The roots are drowning.

Regardless of how much time was spent designing channels and troughs to collect and divert water for dry days, it's now time to dig through the little dirt walls and allow the water to drain away from the garden. Once soil is saturated the only thing to do is to reduce the addition of more water.

Time to redirect pooled water

Just as we can hold our breath for short periods when swimming underwater, plants can handle a brief period without oxygen. Sustained water exposure is deadly, but when you take efforts to cut that exposure you offer your plants a chance to take a breath, so to speak.

Eventually sun and wind will dry out the garden and things can return to normal. You can use that as part of your recovery plan. Mulch works very well to keep the soil surface from drying out. During extreme water events you may need to remove mulch to give the soil extra opportunity to dry. Expose as much surface area as possible to the air.

I use straw as a mulch in many areas. Extra straw in the low spots will absorb rain. If I pull out the soggy straw after a strong storm, I can at least keep that amount of water from adding to the drainage concerns.

If you cover your raised beds with plastic during cold weather, it may be time to bring the plastic back out and cover the beds during wet weather. Watch the forecast and put a lid on the bathtub to keep it from filling.

Identify points and places where the water pooling is worst. Just as a pot needs drainage holes, you may need to create drainage in areas of your garden you hadn't anticipated. Drilled holes in a raised bed, overflow hoses, and alternate water channels can divert excess water. You may be able to make some of those corrections during the rain storm and you may have to wait until the soil has dried afterward. Either way act to keep the problems from returning.

Some things should go without saying, but I'll say them anyway. If your irrigation is on an automatic timer turn it off after a day or two of excessive rain. You don't want to add to the problem by overlooking that. Before you begin watering again don't assume the roots are good because the surface is dry; make a physical check of the moisture level a few inches deep.

If you're planning a new bed in the future or redoing an old one and plan to bring in custom soil, opt for one that has a good sand component. Sand drains well and can help minimize drainage issues. Organic soil amendments are always a good idea and ensuring clay soil is amended well can improve its drainage.

We've had a few dry days and my garden has recovered. But there's a solid chance of more rain today and for the next few afternoons. I now have drainage channels, plastic ready to pull over the hoops on the raised beds, reduced mulch in some spots, and extra straw in others. I look forward to the rain because it cuts down on my need for supplemental watering and now I don't need to be as concerned about drowning my plants.

 

Every year has its memorable weather events and this one isn't disappointing in that respect. From record snow to record tornadoes to record floods to record heat, the United States is going to long remember 2011. While many of these events affect different regions at different times, each of us has to deal with some type of weather adversity in our gardens on a regular basis.

A short while ago I was writing about drought and the effects of overly-dry conditions. Since then the monsoon season began early and rain became a common occurrence. Last week Colorado Springs set a new record for most rainfall in one day; 2.3 inches fell in the afternoon. Just when I was dealing with irrigation issues to try and keep my plants watered, I suddenly had to deal with drainage issues to try and keep my plants from drowning.

Drainage holes weren't enough in this bird feeder

I'm always advocating steady observation in the garden. We like to garden in typical ways on typical days, but should take full advantage of extremes. Whether extremely dry or extremely wet, we should stop and pay attention to how our gardens and plants are reacting. When we are able to modify our actions effectively for the unique events, daily activities become downright easy.

My latest dilemma arose due to saturated soil. As part of my analysis of the soil in my vegetable garden, I realized I have an expansive layer of clay about a foot down. To overcome this problem I brought in a few truckloads of amended soil. That raised the surface level to offer plant roots more room to grow before encountering the clay. In dry conditions that solution works well but after days of torrential rain the upper soil is soaked and drainage becomes virtually nonexistent when the water hits the clay level.

In my numerous raised beds, I brought in new soil and amended it well. As I've described previously, compost and organic matter act as little sponges to absorb water and help keep the soil moist. That reduces the need for daily watering during dry days. During the monsoon season the excessive rain and vertical sides on the beds create a bathtub effect that can hold in the water and the organic sponges keep it there.

So much rain wasn't good for young plants

Soggy, saturated soil will kill plants in time. The key to dealing with that is to recognize it as a problem. On normal days, pooling water between my rows of plants isn't an issue because it will gradually seep into the soil and nourish roots. After successive days of rain, pooling water is a concern because if it remains above the surface for long periods of time that identifies the waterlogged state below the surface as extreme. The roots are drowning.

Regardless of how much time was spent designing channels and troughs to collect and divert water for dry days, it's now time to dig through the little dirt walls and allow the water to drain away from the garden. Once soil is saturated the only thing to do is to reduce the addition of more water.

Time to redirect pooled water

Just as we can hold our breath for short periods when swimming underwater, plants can handle a brief period without oxygen. Sustained water exposure is deadly, but when you take efforts to cut that exposure you offer your plants a chance to take a breath, so to speak.

Eventually sun and wind will dry out the garden and things can return to normal. You can use that as part of your recovery plan. Mulch works very well to keep the soil surface from drying out. During extreme water events you may need to remove mulch to give the soil extra opportunity to dry. Expose as much surface area as possible to the air.

I use straw as a mulch in many areas. Extra straw in the low spots will absorb rain. If I pull out the soggy straw after a strong storm, I can at least keep that amount of water from adding to the drainage concerns.

If you cover your raised beds with plastic during cold weather, it may be time to bring the plastic back out and cover the beds during wet weather. Watch the forecast and put a lid on the bathtub to keep it from filling.

Identify points and places where the water pooling is worst. Just as a pot needs drainage holes, you may need to create drainage in areas of your garden you hadn't anticipated. Drilled holes in a raised bed, overflow hoses, and alternate water channels can divert excess water. You may be able to make some of those corrections during the rain storm and you may have to wait until the soil has dried afterward. Either way act to keep the problems from returning.

Some things should go without saying, but I'll say them anyway. If your irrigation is on an automatic timer turn it off after a day or two of excessive rain. You don't want to add to the problem by overlooking that. Before you begin watering again don't assume the roots are good because the surface is dry; make a physical check of the moisture level a few inches deep.

If you're planning a new bed in the future or redoing an old one and plan to bring in custom soil, opt for one that has a good sand component. Sand drains well and can help minimize drainage issues. Organic soil amendments are always a good idea and ensuring clay soil is amended well can improve its drainage.

We've had a few dry days and my garden has recovered. But there's a solid chance of more rain today and for the next few afternoons. I now have drainage channels, plastic ready to pull over the hoops on the raised beds, reduced mulch in some spots, and extra straw in others. I look forward to the rain because it cuts down on my need for supplemental watering and now I don't need to be as concerned about drowning my plants.

 

Dealing with Plant Wilt

Wilting plants often grab your attention when you patrol your garden, but the cause and control are often misunderstood. So here's a quick quiz. Which of these common plant issues can cause a plant to wilt: not enough water; too much water; not enough sun; too much sun?

My guess is you picked out not enough water and too much sun right away, but those are only two of the potential culprits. In reality, all four can cause plant wilt, in addition to disease, poor root growth, low temperatures, and incorrect fertilization.

During the heat of summer, many garden plants show their discomfort by sagging and losing the rigidity in their stems and leaves. It makes the plant look sad and evokes the same emotion in gardeners. Wilting is caused by a reduction of water in the plant cells. Many people know this so the first reaction of many gardeners is to add water to "make the plant better" whenever they see it wilting. Without full analysis you may actually harm the plant with that course of action.

A wilting tomato plant

Plants require water for virtually every function of life. It cycles through the plant cells in very efficient machinery. Little cells in the leaves (the stomata) open and close to regulate the flow of water vapor and carbon dioxide. Through transpiration the cells open, releasing water vapor from the leaves. That creates a pressure imbalance so more water is drawn up from the roots to replace it. That's how nutrients and water move from the roots to the rest of the plant.

When a plant senses a harsh and potentially harmful condition, like excessive sunlight and heat, the stomata will close, effectively shutting down the conveyor system and no more water flows to the plant structure. The result is what we interpret as wilt. This is not necessarily a bad thing. The plant is in protection mode. It's trying to keep water in its cells by limiting what it loses to the air. Once conditions improve, like less heat, the stomata open up again and the flow resumes. The plant is erect again.

Wilting is a perfectly normal reaction to the stress of the day. Many plants droop in the afternoon and pop back into shape as the sun moves lower in the sky. It doesn't harm the plant and as long as other conditions are fine, there's nothing you should do to "fix" it.

That's why analysis is needed with wilting plants. Stick your finger in the soil during the hot summer day when you see wilting. If the soil is still moist, or at least not bone dry, it is normal and the plant is just taking a break from dry and hot air. There's enough moisture in the soil for the roots, the plant is choosing to shut down transpiration to avoid excessive moisture loss. No extra water from you is needed and the plant will bounce back later.

If your finger reveals a complete lack of moisture, it may be time to water. That won't reverse the wilt immediately, but will add much-needed water to the soil. The plant probably closed its stomata normally because of the hot day and that same heat dried out the soil. When it's ready to resume transpiration the stomata will open and it will begin drawing moisture from the soil. In that case, watering when you see wilt and dry soil can help.

Watering dry soil helped the same plant bounce back

If your finger reveals a soggy or over-watered soil, you may have identified a cause of the wilting. For transpiration and the flow of water through the plant to work effectively, the roots need to be functioning properly. Roots that are drowning in water may be damaged, killed, or at least adversely affected. The stomata may be open, but if the roots aren't capable of supplying moisture because they are struggling, the cell moisture imbalance will result in wilting. This is when watering makes a bad situation worse. Many houseplants that die from overwatering succumb to this cycle of the gardener watering because the plant is wilting.

Too little sunlight can cause a similar plant reaction. Some plants may wilt when they aren't receiving enough sunlight because stomata also play a role in photosynthesis. Watering wilting plants in the shade may be inducing a situation where you add too much water to the roots. In this case knowing your plants becomes important. Sun-loving plants shouldn't be planted in the shade.

If there isn't enough water in the soil and roots to replace what is lost through transpiration when the stomata do open again, the wilting can reach the point where the physical structure of the plant cells are damaged. In that case, watering will not reverse the wilting; the plant is not able to revitalize the damaged tissue. This is when the wilted leaves turn brown and die. If enough leaves and plant tissue is lost the plant will die.

Excessive heat and dry soil caused leaf damage in this pepper

Cold temperatures can also cause the same type of tissue damage. In the fall, cold nights cause wilting and eventually the cold causes cell damage. Brown leaves and dead plants mark the end of the season.

A couple other factors are over-fertilization and disease. When you apply too much fertilizer you can create an imbalance in the plant's growth rate forcing the roots and stomata to work themselves to death; the root structure may not be able to support the plant growth and the lack of water movement causes wilting.

Some plant diseases cause wilt (often seen in tomatoes); there are usually other signs associated with this type of wilt and sprays and powders that can help when you identify it. If your soil is good, your water practice is good, and the plant doesn't recover under cool conditions, the wilting may be due to a fungal disease. Researching the plant, and it's susceptibility to wilting diseases, can help you take appropriate control measures.

There are a few things you can do to reduce harmful wilting. The best control is maintaining consistent soil conditions. If an organically-enriched soil is constantly at an appropriate moisture level through efficient watering and mulching practices, the plant will have the water when it needs it.You won't need to worry about plant damage even when the plant looks stressed during the heat of summer.

Knowing your plants and selecting heat and sun loving plants for hot and dry conditions is good. Plants that have a natural tolerance to heat stress may show no sign of wilting even in extreme conditions. Xeric plants are in this category. Plant tags, plant catalogs, and online resources will often identify how much sun and how much water a plant requires. Matching the plant with the appropriate location is always the best planting practice.

Most importantly, don't automatically reach for the garden hose when you see wilting. In addition to the root issues I discussed above, spraying the leaves can cool the air temperature and cause the stomata to open. If there isn't enough moisture accumulated in the roots or soil, you will force the plant to lose water from its cells and that may be enough to cause irreparable damage.

Once you understand wilting and realize it's nothing that requires overreaction, you can relax and actually enjoy watching the natural process. Seeing a plant recover from the sad state of wilt to a fully erect display of health in just a few hours is an amazing thing.

Wilting plants often grab your attention when you patrol your garden, but the cause and control are often misunderstood. So here's a quick quiz. Which of these common plant issues can cause a plant to wilt: not enough water; too much water; not enough sun; too much sun?

My guess is you picked out not enough water and too much sun right away, but those are only two of the potential culprits. In reality, all four can cause plant wilt, in addition to disease, poor root growth, low temperatures, and incorrect fertilization.

During the heat of summer, many garden plants show their discomfort by sagging and losing the rigidity in their stems and leaves. It makes the plant look sad and evokes the same emotion in gardeners. Wilting is caused by a reduction of water in the plant cells. Many people know this so the first reaction of many gardeners is to add water to "make the plant better" whenever they see it wilting. Without full analysis you may actually harm the plant with that course of action.

A wilting tomato plant

Plants require water for virtually every function of life. It cycles through the plant cells in very efficient machinery. Little cells in the leaves (the stomata) open and close to regulate the flow of water vapor and carbon dioxide. Through transpiration the cells open, releasing water vapor from the leaves. That creates a pressure imbalance so more water is drawn up from the roots to replace it. That's how nutrients and water move from the roots to the rest of the plant.

When a plant senses a harsh and potentially harmful condition, like excessive sunlight and heat, the stomata will close, effectively shutting down the conveyor system and no more water flows to the plant structure. The result is what we interpret as wilt. This is not necessarily a bad thing. The plant is in protection mode. It's trying to keep water in its cells by limiting what it loses to the air. Once conditions improve, like less heat, the stomata open up again and the flow resumes. The plant is erect again.

Wilting is a perfectly normal reaction to the stress of the day. Many plants droop in the afternoon and pop back into shape as the sun moves lower in the sky. It doesn't harm the plant and as long as other conditions are fine, there's nothing you should do to "fix" it.

That's why analysis is needed with wilting plants. Stick your finger in the soil during the hot summer day when you see wilting. If the soil is still moist, or at least not bone dry, it is normal and the plant is just taking a break from dry and hot air. There's enough moisture in the soil for the roots, the plant is choosing to shut down transpiration to avoid excessive moisture loss. No extra water from you is needed and the plant will bounce back later.

If your finger reveals a complete lack of moisture, it may be time to water. That won't reverse the wilt immediately, but will add much-needed water to the soil. The plant probably closed its stomata normally because of the hot day and that same heat dried out the soil. When it's ready to resume transpiration the stomata will open and it will begin drawing moisture from the soil. In that case, watering when you see wilt and dry soil can help.

Watering dry soil helped the same plant bounce back

If your finger reveals a soggy or over-watered soil, you may have identified a cause of the wilting. For transpiration and the flow of water through the plant to work effectively, the roots need to be functioning properly. Roots that are drowning in water may be damaged, killed, or at least adversely affected. The stomata may be open, but if the roots aren't capable of supplying moisture because they are struggling, the cell moisture imbalance will result in wilting. This is when watering makes a bad situation worse. Many houseplants that die from overwatering succumb to this cycle of the gardener watering because the plant is wilting.

Too little sunlight can cause a similar plant reaction. Some plants may wilt when they aren't receiving enough sunlight because stomata also play a role in photosynthesis. Watering wilting plants in the shade may be inducing a situation where you add too much water to the roots. In this case knowing your plants becomes important. Sun-loving plants shouldn't be planted in the shade.

If there isn't enough water in the soil and roots to replace what is lost through transpiration when the stomata do open again, the wilting can reach the point where the physical structure of the plant cells are damaged. In that case, watering will not reverse the wilting; the plant is not able to revitalize the damaged tissue. This is when the wilted leaves turn brown and die. If enough leaves and plant tissue is lost the plant will die.

Excessive heat and dry soil caused leaf damage in this pepper

Cold temperatures can also cause the same type of tissue damage. In the fall, cold nights cause wilting and eventually the cold causes cell damage. Brown leaves and dead plants mark the end of the season.

A couple other factors are over-fertilization and disease. When you apply too much fertilizer you can create an imbalance in the plant's growth rate forcing the roots and stomata to work themselves to death; the root structure may not be able to support the plant growth and the lack of water movement causes wilting.

Some plant diseases cause wilt (often seen in tomatoes); there are usually other signs associated with this type of wilt and sprays and powders that can help when you identify it. If your soil is good, your water practice is good, and the plant doesn't recover under cool conditions, the wilting may be due to a fungal disease. Researching the plant, and it's susceptibility to wilting diseases, can help you take appropriate control measures.

There are a few things you can do to reduce harmful wilting. The best control is maintaining consistent soil conditions. If an organically-enriched soil is constantly at an appropriate moisture level through efficient watering and mulching practices, the plant will have the water when it needs it.You won't need to worry about plant damage even when the plant looks stressed during the heat of summer.

Knowing your plants and selecting heat and sun loving plants for hot and dry conditions is good. Plants that have a natural tolerance to heat stress may show no sign of wilting even in extreme conditions. Xeric plants are in this category. Plant tags, plant catalogs, and online resources will often identify how much sun and how much water a plant requires. Matching the plant with the appropriate location is always the best planting practice.

Most importantly, don't automatically reach for the garden hose when you see wilting. In addition to the root issues I discussed above, spraying the leaves can cool the air temperature and cause the stomata to open. If there isn't enough moisture accumulated in the roots or soil, you will force the plant to lose water from its cells and that may be enough to cause irreparable damage.

Once you understand wilting and realize it's nothing that requires overreaction, you can relax and actually enjoy watching the natural process. Seeing a plant recover from the sad state of wilt to a fully erect display of health in just a few hours is an amazing thing.

Snow News Is Good News... Or Is It?

Like much of the United States, we got hit with more snow this week. The Colorado Springs area only received a few inches, with our neighborhood getting the most at about six inches of fresh powder. The Rocky Mountains received much more than that, delighting skiers who have had an abundance of white powder already this winter. While I've heard locals, gardeners and non-gardeners alike, comment on how "we need the moisture", the precipitation we've had is very deceiving.

My raised beds after a recent snow.

Accompanying the snow were frigid Arctic temperatures. The high temperature yesterday was 20 F with a low of 3 F. The high today is supposed to be 16 F with a low of -4 F. Throw in the wind we had and the wind chill temperatures were well below zero. Of course, our forecast is for temperatures climbing into the high 50s by the end of the week. As the snow piled up in drifts it was easy to think that it was worth enduring the cold in exchange for the water that would find its way into the soil when the snow melts. The problem is that the snow doesn't hold much moisture.

Yesterday my wife commented, "All this snow will be good for the garden." I told her that wasn't the case and spent a few minutes explaining that temperature affects how much water is contained in the snow flakes. Colder air has less water vapor in it and snow flakes formed in Arctic air like we experienced are light and dry. Our snowiest months are March and April and the temperatures during those months supply big, heavy snowflakes laden with water because the warmer air contains more water vapor. Her eyes began to glaze over as I continued, but the point was that all the snow we have blanketing the garden now will have little effect. In fact for many people it may harm their landscape.

Coincidentally, a front page article in The Gazette today highlights the same concern. A standard role of meteorologists is to measure the amount of precipitation in snow. The meteorologists I used to work with explained to me long ago that it takes about 10 inches of snow to equal one inch of measured precipitation, or water. As the temperature drops, the amount of precipitation drops too. Kyle Mozley, a National Weather Service meteorologist, says in today's article that it might take 20 to 30 inches of snow to obtain one inch of precipitation when it's accompanied by below-zero temperatures.

As I've written before, plants still need moisture during the winter, especially when the daytime temperatures occasionally climb into the 50s or 60s. It's easy for gardeners to look at the six inches of snow they have on the garden and think that it equates to a "good watering." In actuality that six inches might only hold 1/5 of an inch of water.

Worse yet, when the sun comes out after a storm, a good portion of that moisture may be lost through sublimation. Sublimation is when a solid substance is transformed directly into a gas without becoming a liquid. On a cold sunny day you can often see this happening as the water vapor departs the snow. When it looks like steam is rising from the snow, that's sublimation in action. Solid water, or ice, is becoming gaseous water, or vapor; the liquid part never happens.

When you combine snow from cold days and nights with sublimation, the moisture in the snow is very low and when it melts the surface may get damp, but not much water finds its way into the soil. If a gardener assumes that the snow is providing necessary winter water, they'll be mistaken and the plants will suffer as a result.

Plants with shallow root systems are the ones that will suffer the most. New trees, shrubs, and perennials haven't established root networks and are relying on your help through a dry winter. The new shrubs and trees may require as much as five or ten gallons of water per month once the temperatures rise above 40 F degrees. Older, larger shrubs may need more than that. Lawns can dry out quickly and you won't be aware of "winter kill" until everything else starts to green in the spring.

This is also a time to look for microclimates again. Plants that get reflective heat from the sun or that receive more wind will dry out faster. You'll notice that the snow melts faster next to your house on the south side. The windswept yard may cause a drift a few feet deep on one end, but in the middle the snow may be virtually absent. Both of those areas have less snow, which means less water, and then warm up faster causing the plants to be drier.

Take a close look at your garden and landscape. Do your own analysis of the snow and precipitation levels for different areas. Once the temperature rises above 40 F degrees and the snow is gone, be ready to go out with your watering can or garden hose. As always, stick your finger in the soil to be sure it isn't still frozen. Try to water your plants around noon so the water has time to soak into the soil before nighttime freezing temperatures come around again.

It takes extra effort, but late winter is when most of the potential damage can occur. Days are starting to get warmer, soil will be more likely to thaw, and snow won't be enough to provide necessary moisture for plants. If the roots are going to dry out and be damaged it's going to happen during days like these.

By the end of the week, when I'm enjoying the return of warm days, I'll be walking through my garden and sticking my finger in the soil next to my perennials, shrubs, and new trees. Mulch helps a lot to retain moisture and my mulched beds may not need much additional water, but I'll be providing it for all of the areas that do. I'll be left with a dirty finger and wet boots, but my plants will be better for it.

Like much of the United States, we got hit with more snow this week. The Colorado Springs area only received a few inches, with our neighborhood getting the most at about six inches of fresh powder. The Rocky Mountains received much more than that, delighting skiers who have had an abundance of white powder already this winter. While I've heard locals, gardeners and non-gardeners alike, comment on how "we need the moisture", the precipitation we've had is very deceiving.

My raised beds after a recent snow.

Accompanying the snow were frigid Arctic temperatures. The high temperature yesterday was 20 F with a low of 3 F. The high today is supposed to be 16 F with a low of -4 F. Throw in the wind we had and the wind chill temperatures were well below zero. Of course, our forecast is for temperatures climbing into the high 50s by the end of the week. As the snow piled up in drifts it was easy to think that it was worth enduring the cold in exchange for the water that would find its way into the soil when the snow melts. The problem is that the snow doesn't hold much moisture.

Yesterday my wife commented, "All this snow will be good for the garden." I told her that wasn't the case and spent a few minutes explaining that temperature affects how much water is contained in the snow flakes. Colder air has less water vapor in it and snow flakes formed in Arctic air like we experienced are light and dry. Our snowiest months are March and April and the temperatures during those months supply big, heavy snowflakes laden with water because the warmer air contains more water vapor. Her eyes began to glaze over as I continued, but the point was that all the snow we have blanketing the garden now will have little effect. In fact for many people it may harm their landscape.

Coincidentally, a front page article in The Gazette today highlights the same concern. A standard role of meteorologists is to measure the amount of precipitation in snow. The meteorologists I used to work with explained to me long ago that it takes about 10 inches of snow to equal one inch of measured precipitation, or water. As the temperature drops, the amount of precipitation drops too. Kyle Mozley, a National Weather Service meteorologist, says in today's article that it might take 20 to 30 inches of snow to obtain one inch of precipitation when it's accompanied by below-zero temperatures.

As I've written before, plants still need moisture during the winter, especially when the daytime temperatures occasionally climb into the 50s or 60s. It's easy for gardeners to look at the six inches of snow they have on the garden and think that it equates to a "good watering." In actuality that six inches might only hold 1/5 of an inch of water.

Worse yet, when the sun comes out after a storm, a good portion of that moisture may be lost through sublimation. Sublimation is when a solid substance is transformed directly into a gas without becoming a liquid. On a cold sunny day you can often see this happening as the water vapor departs the snow. When it looks like steam is rising from the snow, that's sublimation in action. Solid water, or ice, is becoming gaseous water, or vapor; the liquid part never happens.

When you combine snow from cold days and nights with sublimation, the moisture in the snow is very low and when it melts the surface may get damp, but not much water finds its way into the soil. If a gardener assumes that the snow is providing necessary winter water, they'll be mistaken and the plants will suffer as a result.

Plants with shallow root systems are the ones that will suffer the most. New trees, shrubs, and perennials haven't established root networks and are relying on your help through a dry winter. The new shrubs and trees may require as much as five or ten gallons of water per month once the temperatures rise above 40 F degrees. Older, larger shrubs may need more than that. Lawns can dry out quickly and you won't be aware of "winter kill" until everything else starts to green in the spring.

This is also a time to look for microclimates again. Plants that get reflective heat from the sun or that receive more wind will dry out faster. You'll notice that the snow melts faster next to your house on the south side. The windswept yard may cause a drift a few feet deep on one end, but in the middle the snow may be virtually absent. Both of those areas have less snow, which means less water, and then warm up faster causing the plants to be drier.

Take a close look at your garden and landscape. Do your own analysis of the snow and precipitation levels for different areas. Once the temperature rises above 40 F degrees and the snow is gone, be ready to go out with your watering can or garden hose. As always, stick your finger in the soil to be sure it isn't still frozen. Try to water your plants around noon so the water has time to soak into the soil before nighttime freezing temperatures come around again.

It takes extra effort, but late winter is when most of the potential damage can occur. Days are starting to get warmer, soil will be more likely to thaw, and snow won't be enough to provide necessary moisture for plants. If the roots are going to dry out and be damaged it's going to happen during days like these.

By the end of the week, when I'm enjoying the return of warm days, I'll be walking through my garden and sticking my finger in the soil next to my perennials, shrubs, and new trees. Mulch helps a lot to retain moisture and my mulched beds may not need much additional water, but I'll be providing it for all of the areas that do. I'll be left with a dirty finger and wet boots, but my plants will be better for it.

But Beware of Broken Pots

Potted perennial plants need water during cold months.  Some of the benefits of pots, like their ability to warm soil faster when the sun comes out and good drainage, can be detrimental to potted plants in the winter. Often snowfall isn't enough to keep roots from drying out and without supplemental watering the plants can die.

In open ground, the roots of plants aren't confined to a small space. Rain and snow melt moisten the soil relatively evenly and it remains moist for awhile because evaporation slows down in colder weather. When the ground freezes it does so in a uniform fashion. During an especially dry winter you may need to water your garden beds occasionally, but most perennial plants are adapted to handle harsh conditions.

The soil in pots can partially thaw on a warm day and refreeze when the sun goes down. Any moisture from snow will drain or evaporate more quickly than a standard garden bed. These changes in the soil can stress a plant to death. With a little extra attention you can help moderate conditions by recognizing these changes and acting to save your potted plants.

Plants don't need much water during winter. They aren't typically growing during the cold; they're dormant. They're alive, but nutrients aren't flowing from the roots and photosynthetic sugars aren't replenishing energy. Water isn't needed to sustain this process. Instead, water is primarily needed to keep the roots from desiccating, from drying out.

My herb garden.

I grow many of my herbs in pots. Most of them are annuals, but the rosemary, oregano, tarragon, and mint return every year. My thyme stays viable most of the winter; I can snip off usable portions in December. After prolonged periods of dry weather I test the soil and water if needed.

How do I test the soil? By sticking my finger in it. If it's frozen and I can't push in more than an inch, it doesn't need water. If my finger penetrates easily and the soil is dry, it's time to water. You won't need as much water in winter as during the growing season. You only need enough to moisten the soil, not soak it.

You won't need to water as often as during warm weather. Every couple weeks or even just once a month may be enough. When the soil is frozen you shouldn't water, so it's only during the time when the sun comes out and begins a thaw that you need to think about it. You're just trying to avoid long, sustained periods of dry soil.

Too much water in a pot can have devastating results. Remember that water expands when it freezes. Also remember that a pot is a confined space. If the soil is saturated when it freezes, it can break the confines of the pot. I've lost a few Terra Cotta pots in years past because I watered too much before a freeze. I use plastic pots now for many of my plantings, particularly herbs.

The pots that broke during a freeze.

If you have pots exclusively for annuals, you don't need to water them during the winter. The soil will dry out and you'll need to spend extra effort in the spring getting the moisture content up before planting, but you won't have to worry about pots breaking during the cold.

I don't water these pots; they're used for annuals.

It's all very easy. Every now and then stick your finger in a pot. If it's dry stick your finger in another pot. If it's dry too, pull out your watering can and spend a few seconds pouring water into the pots with perennials in them. Do this a couple times during the winter and your loss due to winterkill should be reduced.

Potted perennial plants need water during cold months.  Some of the benefits of pots, like their ability to warm soil faster when the sun comes out and good drainage, can be detrimental to potted plants in the winter. Often snowfall isn't enough to keep roots from drying out and without supplemental watering the plants can die.

In open ground, the roots of plants aren't confined to a small space. Rain and snow melt moisten the soil relatively evenly and it remains moist for awhile because evaporation slows down in colder weather. When the ground freezes it does so in a uniform fashion. During an especially dry winter you may need to water your garden beds occasionally, but most perennial plants are adapted to handle harsh conditions.

The soil in pots can partially thaw on a warm day and refreeze when the sun goes down. Any moisture from snow will drain or evaporate more quickly than a standard garden bed. These changes in the soil can stress a plant to death. With a little extra attention you can help moderate conditions by recognizing these changes and acting to save your potted plants.

Plants don't need much water during winter. They aren't typically growing during the cold; they're dormant. They're alive, but nutrients aren't flowing from the roots and photosynthetic sugars aren't replenishing energy. Water isn't needed to sustain this process. Instead, water is primarily needed to keep the roots from desiccating, from drying out.

My herb garden.

I grow many of my herbs in pots. Most of them are annuals, but the rosemary, oregano, tarragon, and mint return every year. My thyme stays viable most of the winter; I can snip off usable portions in December. After prolonged periods of dry weather I test the soil and water if needed.

How do I test the soil? By sticking my finger in it. If it's frozen and I can't push in more than an inch, it doesn't need water. If my finger penetrates easily and the soil is dry, it's time to water. You won't need as much water in winter as during the growing season. You only need enough to moisten the soil, not soak it.

You won't need to water as often as during warm weather. Every couple weeks or even just once a month may be enough. When the soil is frozen you shouldn't water, so it's only during the time when the sun comes out and begins a thaw that you need to think about it. You're just trying to avoid long, sustained periods of dry soil.

Too much water in a pot can have devastating results. Remember that water expands when it freezes. Also remember that a pot is a confined space. If the soil is saturated when it freezes, it can break the confines of the pot. I've lost a few Terra Cotta pots in years past because I watered too much before a freeze. I use plastic pots now for many of my plantings, particularly herbs.

The pots that broke during a freeze.

If you have pots exclusively for annuals, you don't need to water them during the winter. The soil will dry out and you'll need to spend extra effort in the spring getting the moisture content up before planting, but you won't have to worry about pots breaking during the cold.

I don't water these pots; they're used for annuals.

It's all very easy. Every now and then stick your finger in a pot. If it's dry stick your finger in another pot. If it's dry too, pull out your watering can and spend a few seconds pouring water into the pots with perennials in them. Do this a couple times during the winter and your loss due to winterkill should be reduced.

All I Want for Christmas Is My Two Front Trees

The weather this year is markedly different than last year's. On this date in 2009 we had over a foot of snow on the ground. High temperatures were chillingly low. Snow came and stayed as the thermometer barely wavered above freezing for weeks at a time. This year we're setting records for high temperatures; much of December has been 15 to 20 degrees above normal. Last week we set a new record for the latest day for the first measurable snow. Our precipitation level for the season is 12 inches below normal.

Meteorologists explain the different weather patterns as either La Nina or El Nino. The surface temperature of the Pacific Ocean varies from year to year and affects how weather forms and impacts the Western Hemisphere. During an El Nino winter, our area of the country tends to be colder, with more snowfall; much of the northern United States is drier and warmer. During La Nina, we are warmer and drier while the North is colder and wetter. That's the pattern we're in now. While we're balmy and dry, my stepmother in Washington state is worried about shoveling snow from her driveway, again.

This becomes an issue for gardeners because the wide variation in weather affects us and our plants. El Nino patterns tend to prevail for years at a time and those are the patterns to which we grow accustomed. La Nina happens less often and tends to catch us by surprise.

For areas of the country, like ours, where snowfall is a normal part of winter, we know that the snow adds moisture to the soil and also acts like a protective blanket for many plants that can be damaged by extreme cold. Winter is a time to plan the next year's garden, look through plant catalogs, feed the birds, and let nature take care of itself outside.

When that process is interrupted, our plants can suffer. Even in the coldest months our landscape still requires moisture. With no snow, the soil can dry out, roots will die, and normally hardy plants won't recover from cold temperatures. Warmer temperatures may encourage more freeze-thaw cycles in the soil that can push plants out of the ground. Lower humidity and cold winds desiccate trees and buds.

Though your garden hoses are probably wound up and stored away, it's time to think about watering your garden. You need to add the moisture to the soil that snow normally would. Winter watering for lawns is particularly important. Without it, you'll be rewarded in the spring by big sections of dead, brown grass.

I planted two dwarf Alberta Spruce trees in front of my house months ago. I kept the soil watered to help them gain a footing and then stopped the regular watering as freezing weather arrived. Frozen soil and normal snow would protect them through the winter. That hasn't happened. The soil is relatively warm and dry. It's up to me to help them through the winter by periodic watering. Without my efforts, I can't be assured that they'll survive.

Perennial plants, bushes, and trees don't need a lot of water in cold weather. They're mostly dormant so they're not using the moisture for nutrition and growth. But normal plant processes require water. Think about the Christmas tree you cut down or bought to place in your living room. In the warm, dry environment inside your house, you need to add water to the tree stand almost every day. Even after it's cut, a tree still draws water from its base out to its needles. Without water the tree dries out. That is exactly what is happening to the live trees in your yard if you don't keep the soil watered when there is no snow.

So think about watering your garden. It is best to water when the ground isn't frozen; adding water to frozen ground won't do much good as you just add a layer of ice. Water when the weather warms up, preferably above 40 degrees F, not on a day when the temperature is below freezing. Look at forecasts for a period of days when the temperatures will all be warm. Water at mid-day so the water has a chance to soak into the ground before freezing night temperatures.

Look for areas in your garden that may need watering more often. Plants next to walls, fences, or your house may be warmer because of reflective heating. Those plants will dry out sooner and require more water. Plants in windy, unprotected areas will have similar needs. Newer plants will need more watering than established plants. Late-season transplants will also need more water. If you haven't mulched around the same plants, do so soon. That will help moderate soil moisture levels and temperatures.

You may only need to water one or two times a month for prolonged periods without snow. Check your soil to see if it's frozen or dry. Stick your finger in it. One thorough, soaking watering my be good for weeks. If snow does come you still may need to add water. Light snow doesn't contain much moisture and you can be fooled into thinking it was enough for your plants. After a few days check the soil again.

If you've ever wondered why you lost plants after a dry winter, it may be because they needed water and didn't get it. Look at your garden now. Has it been awhile since a snow? Since you watered? Now that you know, you can be the difference between a robust garden in the spring and one that needs replacement plants after winter die-off.

The weather this year is markedly different than last year's. On this date in 2009 we had over a foot of snow on the ground. High temperatures were chillingly low. Snow came and stayed as the thermometer barely wavered above freezing for weeks at a time. This year we're setting records for high temperatures; much of December has been 15 to 20 degrees above normal. Last week we set a new record for the latest day for the first measurable snow. Our precipitation level for the season is 12 inches below normal.

Meteorologists explain the different weather patterns as either La Nina or El Nino. The surface temperature of the Pacific Ocean varies from year to year and affects how weather forms and impacts the Western Hemisphere. During an El Nino winter, our area of the country tends to be colder, with more snowfall; much of the northern United States is drier and warmer. During La Nina, we are warmer and drier while the North is colder and wetter. That's the pattern we're in now. While we're balmy and dry, my stepmother in Washington state is worried about shoveling snow from her driveway, again.

This becomes an issue for gardeners because the wide variation in weather affects us and our plants. El Nino patterns tend to prevail for years at a time and those are the patterns to which we grow accustomed. La Nina happens less often and tends to catch us by surprise.

For areas of the country, like ours, where snowfall is a normal part of winter, we know that the snow adds moisture to the soil and also acts like a protective blanket for many plants that can be damaged by extreme cold. Winter is a time to plan the next year's garden, look through plant catalogs, feed the birds, and let nature take care of itself outside.

When that process is interrupted, our plants can suffer. Even in the coldest months our landscape still requires moisture. With no snow, the soil can dry out, roots will die, and normally hardy plants won't recover from cold temperatures. Warmer temperatures may encourage more freeze-thaw cycles in the soil that can push plants out of the ground. Lower humidity and cold winds desiccate trees and buds.

Though your garden hoses are probably wound up and stored away, it's time to think about watering your garden. You need to add the moisture to the soil that snow normally would. Winter watering for lawns is particularly important. Without it, you'll be rewarded in the spring by big sections of dead, brown grass.

I planted two dwarf Alberta Spruce trees in front of my house months ago. I kept the soil watered to help them gain a footing and then stopped the regular watering as freezing weather arrived. Frozen soil and normal snow would protect them through the winter. That hasn't happened. The soil is relatively warm and dry. It's up to me to help them through the winter by periodic watering. Without my efforts, I can't be assured that they'll survive.

Perennial plants, bushes, and trees don't need a lot of water in cold weather. They're mostly dormant so they're not using the moisture for nutrition and growth. But normal plant processes require water. Think about the Christmas tree you cut down or bought to place in your living room. In the warm, dry environment inside your house, you need to add water to the tree stand almost every day. Even after it's cut, a tree still draws water from its base out to its needles. Without water the tree dries out. That is exactly what is happening to the live trees in your yard if you don't keep the soil watered when there is no snow.

So think about watering your garden. It is best to water when the ground isn't frozen; adding water to frozen ground won't do much good as you just add a layer of ice. Water when the weather warms up, preferably above 40 degrees F, not on a day when the temperature is below freezing. Look at forecasts for a period of days when the temperatures will all be warm. Water at mid-day so the water has a chance to soak into the ground before freezing night temperatures.

Look for areas in your garden that may need watering more often. Plants next to walls, fences, or your house may be warmer because of reflective heating. Those plants will dry out sooner and require more water. Plants in windy, unprotected areas will have similar needs. Newer plants will need more watering than established plants. Late-season transplants will also need more water. If you haven't mulched around the same plants, do so soon. That will help moderate soil moisture levels and temperatures.

You may only need to water one or two times a month for prolonged periods without snow. Check your soil to see if it's frozen or dry. Stick your finger in it. One thorough, soaking watering my be good for weeks. If snow does come you still may need to add water. Light snow doesn't contain much moisture and you can be fooled into thinking it was enough for your plants. After a few days check the soil again.

If you've ever wondered why you lost plants after a dry winter, it may be because they needed water and didn't get it. Look at your garden now. Has it been awhile since a snow? Since you watered? Now that you know, you can be the difference between a robust garden in the spring and one that needs replacement plants after winter die-off.

When the Rains Don't Come

Colorado's Front Range is an arid region. Like most gardeners in this part of the country I look forward to rain clouds and the possibility of the gardens receiving a free, natural watering. Colorado Springs averages less than 18 total inches of precipitation each year; that includes moisture from both rain and snow. This week, the possibility of precipitation was in the forecast on three different days. My gardens received none.

A creature of habit, I water on a fairly consistent schedule. Different plants receive more or less depending on where they are and what they are, but the activity of watering occurs regularly. When the forecast includes a 40 percent chance of rain, or more, I'll modify my schedule and hold off until the storm passes. If water reaches the ground in an appreciable amount I may not have to supply supplemental irrigation for a day or two, or more. When the rains fail to appear, it may mean the plants need even more water because of the lost day waiting on the clouds.

This was probably a confusing week for my plants. I didn't water according to schedule because of the possibility of rain; no need to waste water. The soil was dry and even drier when nothing came from the skies. I would normally have watered to relieve stress on the plants, but the next day had an increased probability of precipitation so I waited. Alas, another day of nothing came and went. I relented and watered about four days past the typical schedule.

If your plants are strong and conditions aren't extreme, most can handle lack of normal water for a few days. Some plants actually strive in those conditions as they send out roots seeking more moisture. Some stop growth in an effort to hold the liquid that they have. And some may die or be stunted. This time of year when less water is needed for most plants as they begin to slow down their activity and enter dormancy, it's less damaging for plants to experience some dry days.

For all times of the year, it's important to check soil moisture and plant condition to determine if watering is actually necessary. In the summer, when temperatures can be high and humidity low, a few dry days may spell doom. That's why regular watering may be critical during times of stressful weather. I've noticed recently that the soil in some areas is staying moist between normally scheduled watering. Cooler temperatures mean less evaporation. If the soil doesn't need water, neither do the plants. That's one reason I was willing to wait for the rains.

I used to work with weather forecasters and understand that a 40 percent chance of precipitation means that 40 percent of the forecast area will receive it and 60 percent of the areas won't. It doesn't mean everybody has a probability of 40 percent. Sure enough, large sections of the city only 15 miles away received over half an inch or rain while we were dry.

It is a little annoying to modify a schedule based on a forecast, but more often than not it is an advantage. It's helpful to know when freezing conditions are coming. It's also nice knowing when a period of warm weather will allow for spring planting. During periods of weather unrest like spring and fall you just have to take it one day at a time. We have more possibility of precipitation in a few days, but my soil is dry and I'll water the plants today. If we get measureable levels of moisture next week I'll modify my schedule and hold back the hoses.

Gardening is an interactive task. Some times we can be proactive and often we have to be reactive. The possibilities help make it exciting. I'll continue to keep my eye on the skies, but I'll always keep my hands in the soil.

Colorado's Front Range is an arid region. Like most gardeners in this part of the country I look forward to rain clouds and the possibility of the gardens receiving a free, natural watering. Colorado Springs averages less than 18 total inches of precipitation each year; that includes moisture from both rain and snow. This week, the possibility of precipitation was in the forecast on three different days. My gardens received none.

A creature of habit, I water on a fairly consistent schedule. Different plants receive more or less depending on where they are and what they are, but the activity of watering occurs regularly. When the forecast includes a 40 percent chance of rain, or more, I'll modify my schedule and hold off until the storm passes. If water reaches the ground in an appreciable amount I may not have to supply supplemental irrigation for a day or two, or more. When the rains fail to appear, it may mean the plants need even more water because of the lost day waiting on the clouds.

This was probably a confusing week for my plants. I didn't water according to schedule because of the possibility of rain; no need to waste water. The soil was dry and even drier when nothing came from the skies. I would normally have watered to relieve stress on the plants, but the next day had an increased probability of precipitation so I waited. Alas, another day of nothing came and went. I relented and watered about four days past the typical schedule.

If your plants are strong and conditions aren't extreme, most can handle lack of normal water for a few days. Some plants actually strive in those conditions as they send out roots seeking more moisture. Some stop growth in an effort to hold the liquid that they have. And some may die or be stunted. This time of year when less water is needed for most plants as they begin to slow down their activity and enter dormancy, it's less damaging for plants to experience some dry days.

For all times of the year, it's important to check soil moisture and plant condition to determine if watering is actually necessary. In the summer, when temperatures can be high and humidity low, a few dry days may spell doom. That's why regular watering may be critical during times of stressful weather. I've noticed recently that the soil in some areas is staying moist between normally scheduled watering. Cooler temperatures mean less evaporation. If the soil doesn't need water, neither do the plants. That's one reason I was willing to wait for the rains.

I used to work with weather forecasters and understand that a 40 percent chance of precipitation means that 40 percent of the forecast area will receive it and 60 percent of the areas won't. It doesn't mean everybody has a probability of 40 percent. Sure enough, large sections of the city only 15 miles away received over half an inch or rain while we were dry.

It is a little annoying to modify a schedule based on a forecast, but more often than not it is an advantage. It's helpful to know when freezing conditions are coming. It's also nice knowing when a period of warm weather will allow for spring planting. During periods of weather unrest like spring and fall you just have to take it one day at a time. We have more possibility of precipitation in a few days, but my soil is dry and I'll water the plants today. If we get measureable levels of moisture next week I'll modify my schedule and hold back the hoses.

Gardening is an interactive task. Some times we can be proactive and often we have to be reactive. The possibilities help make it exciting. I'll continue to keep my eye on the skies, but I'll always keep my hands in the soil.

Stick a Finger in it

Watering the garden can be a wonderful thing for both you and the plants. Though I strongly advocate soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems as a way to provide the correct amount of water to your garden, there is something cathartic about holding a warm hose and connecting with each plant  as you offer nourishing H2O. Stress and worry seem to flow out of the body at the same rate as the flow from the hose.

During a hot summer or in an arid region like ours, a soothing rain can also provide that catharsis. The cooling and cleansing effect of an afternoon thunderstorm or evening shower revitalizes the air and rivatalizes your inner being. In the same way, a heat-stressed garden will perk up after the irrigation from the sky.

Though I love hand watering my garden, I look upon rain as a natural process to help keep plants alive. After a rain, the trees are green, the flowers are glistening and the birds are singing. It's easy to keep the hose coiled on the ground as you give thanks for nature's processes and for not having to add more to your water bill. For those of you who don't enjoy the watering as I do, it's a nice day off from another gardening chore. But do you stop to analyze whether the rain was enough to actually keep your garden alive?

Without thinking about whether a plant needs water or not, we have our watering schedule planned and often stick to it. We take part in our morning or evening habit. It's time to water, so we water. We know how long it takes to complete the activity and that's how long we take to do it. Each plant gets its regular water on a regular basis.

If it rains we likely cancel that day's chore. Then we wait until the next scheduled watering, unless it rains again. In our Colorado, monsoonal, late-summer weather pattern, it's possible to have rain for two weeks without a break. In that time the hose stays wound up, the weeds explode into life, and the garden is ignored more than usual. We wait until the scheduled watering time before we get back to irrigating our gardens.

Scheduled watering is one of the worst things you can do for a garden. If you maintain a watering schedule it's possible that you'll provide too much water and drown your plants. If rain intervenes, it's possible that you will under-water your plant and kill it by thirst. Unless you use a rain guage you won't know if the water from the sky is enough to nourish your plants; assuming it is can be deadly. I've made both mistakes.

Most gardens don't need watering every day, but some do. With proper soil preparation and mulching, many gardens can go three or four days between watering, and some only need it once a week. When it's particularly hot and dry or if the soil is very sandy, gardens may need daily irrigation. It varies based on your specific plant's water needs, on the heat and humidity, on the wind, and on the growth cycle of the plant. The most common problem plants have in a typical garden is receiving too much water. We want to baby our little green friends so we shower them with wet affection, often killing them in the process. Too much water can actually drown a plant by replacing the oxygen in the soil that roots need to absorb to prosper, especially in clay soils.


Use your finger to fix the problem. Before your scheduled watering or after a rain, stick your finger in the soil near a plant. Use that nifty, fleshy tool as a gauge for how moist the soil is. If it's dry, water. If it's wet, don't. Plants don't like too wet and they don't like too dry; they like moist.

Don't rely on the sign of wilting leaves to determine how much water is needed. In the heat of the day, it's normal for a plant's leaves to wilt. It's part of the cellular process a plant uses to minimize water loss by closing off the normal transpiration of water vapor; the result is what we call wilting. As soon as the day cools, leaves open their stomata, little openings in their leaves, and through the process of osmosis begin to absorb water through the roots. The leaves perk up again. Too much water in the soil can screw up the process.

In a similar way, assuming the rain has provided enough moisture can screw things up. While plants benefit from some water on their leaves by absorbing a little of it and easing the transpiration process, they receive primary moisture from the soil. If the rain doesn't reach the soil or if it isn't enough to saturate the soil, the roots will have nothing to absorb and the plant suffers. In this case wilting results because the transpiration process stops and it may be too late to reverse the process. This is when plants die.

The best way to determine if wilting is normal because of a hot day or deadly because of dry soil, is to stick your finger in. Moist finger is good, dry finger is bad. Use the results to decide whether watering is appropriate. Some experts suggest using a screwdriver to determine the dryness of soil; you stick the screwdriver in the soil then touch it after you pull it out to see if it's wet. As I blogged earlier, I like the feel of the soil. Sticking a finger in gives instant feedback and gives you contact with your garden.

You can buy a water sensor, which is a little probe that measures the water content in soil. You stick it in the ground and a little gauge tells you the degree to which your soil is dry or wet. Cheap sensors can be inaccurate and accurate sensors can be expensive. I'm frugal and don't see a need to spend unnecessarily.

For me, you can best benefit your plants and determine your correct watering schedule by just sticking a finger in it.

Watering the garden can be a wonderful thing for both you and the plants. Though I strongly advocate soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems as a way to provide the correct amount of water to your garden, there is something cathartic about holding a warm hose and connecting with each plant  as you offer nourishing H2O. Stress and worry seem to flow out of the body at the same rate as the flow from the hose.

During a hot summer or in an arid region like ours, a soothing rain can also provide that catharsis. The cooling and cleansing effect of an afternoon thunderstorm or evening shower revitalizes the air and rivatalizes your inner being. In the same way, a heat-stressed garden will perk up after the irrigation from the sky.

Though I love hand watering my garden, I look upon rain as a natural process to help keep plants alive. After a rain, the trees are green, the flowers are glistening and the birds are singing. It's easy to keep the hose coiled on the ground as you give thanks for nature's processes and for not having to add more to your water bill. For those of you who don't enjoy the watering as I do, it's a nice day off from another gardening chore. But do you stop to analyze whether the rain was enough to actually keep your garden alive?

Without thinking about whether a plant needs water or not, we have our watering schedule planned and often stick to it. We take part in our morning or evening habit. It's time to water, so we water. We know how long it takes to complete the activity and that's how long we take to do it. Each plant gets its regular water on a regular basis.

If it rains we likely cancel that day's chore. Then we wait until the next scheduled watering, unless it rains again. In our Colorado, monsoonal, late-summer weather pattern, it's possible to have rain for two weeks without a break. In that time the hose stays wound up, the weeds explode into life, and the garden is ignored more than usual. We wait until the scheduled watering time before we get back to irrigating our gardens.

Scheduled watering is one of the worst things you can do for a garden. If you maintain a watering schedule it's possible that you'll provide too much water and drown your plants. If rain intervenes, it's possible that you will under-water your plant and kill it by thirst. Unless you use a rain guage you won't know if the water from the sky is enough to nourish your plants; assuming it is can be deadly. I've made both mistakes.

Most gardens don't need watering every day, but some do. With proper soil preparation and mulching, many gardens can go three or four days between watering, and some only need it once a week. When it's particularly hot and dry or if the soil is very sandy, gardens may need daily irrigation. It varies based on your specific plant's water needs, on the heat and humidity, on the wind, and on the growth cycle of the plant. The most common problem plants have in a typical garden is receiving too much water. We want to baby our little green friends so we shower them with wet affection, often killing them in the process. Too much water can actually drown a plant by replacing the oxygen in the soil that roots need to absorb to prosper, especially in clay soils.


Use your finger to fix the problem. Before your scheduled watering or after a rain, stick your finger in the soil near a plant. Use that nifty, fleshy tool as a gauge for how moist the soil is. If it's dry, water. If it's wet, don't. Plants don't like too wet and they don't like too dry; they like moist.

Don't rely on the sign of wilting leaves to determine how much water is needed. In the heat of the day, it's normal for a plant's leaves to wilt. It's part of the cellular process a plant uses to minimize water loss by closing off the normal transpiration of water vapor; the result is what we call wilting. As soon as the day cools, leaves open their stomata, little openings in their leaves, and through the process of osmosis begin to absorb water through the roots. The leaves perk up again. Too much water in the soil can screw up the process.

In a similar way, assuming the rain has provided enough moisture can screw things up. While plants benefit from some water on their leaves by absorbing a little of it and easing the transpiration process, they receive primary moisture from the soil. If the rain doesn't reach the soil or if it isn't enough to saturate the soil, the roots will have nothing to absorb and the plant suffers. In this case wilting results because the transpiration process stops and it may be too late to reverse the process. This is when plants die.

The best way to determine if wilting is normal because of a hot day or deadly because of dry soil, is to stick your finger in. Moist finger is good, dry finger is bad. Use the results to decide whether watering is appropriate. Some experts suggest using a screwdriver to determine the dryness of soil; you stick the screwdriver in the soil then touch it after you pull it out to see if it's wet. As I blogged earlier, I like the feel of the soil. Sticking a finger in gives instant feedback and gives you contact with your garden.

You can buy a water sensor, which is a little probe that measures the water content in soil. You stick it in the ground and a little gauge tells you the degree to which your soil is dry or wet. Cheap sensors can be inaccurate and accurate sensors can be expensive. I'm frugal and don't see a need to spend unnecessarily.

For me, you can best benefit your plants and determine your correct watering schedule by just sticking a finger in it.