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Monday, January 31, 2011

Protecting Plants From Cold Temperatures

Tonight is when my garden moves from USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 5 to Zone 4. I've written much about the Hardiness Zones in recent weeks and the next few days exemplify the reason why. Officially my zip code resides in Zone 5, meaning average low temperatures can reach minus 20 degrees F. The forecast low temperature tonight for Colorado Springs is -20 F, the bottom edge of Zone 5. Because I live at an elevation of 1,000 feet higher than the city, I can expect my temperature to be at least three degrees colder, venturing into Zone 4 territory.

Plants that are identified as suitable for Zone 5 may be damaged when temperatures drop below that threshold. I try to plant Zone 3 and Zone 4 plants when I can find them, but many of my favorites are listed as appropriate for Zones 5-8. That means they may be injured or killed when temperatures drop this low.

An important factor in using the Hardiness Zones to determine plant survivability is how much snow is expected along with the cold temperatures. Snow is a great insulator against the extreme cold. It protects the roots of the dormant plants from the frigid conditions. Plants suitable for Zone 5 and Zone 6 can actually handle temperatures in the Zone 4 realm if they're protected by snow cover. The snow is cold, but it tempers the ground, roots, and base of the plant. The deeper the snow, the better the protection. Believe it or not, the temperature of snow on the bottom is warmer than snow on the top.

The temperature of snow is close to the temperature at which water freezes, 32 degrees F (or 0 degrees C). The surface temperature may be colder than that because it is affected by the temperature of the surrounding air. The temperature of the snow on the soil is much closer to the freezing point, 32 degrees F. So a plant that can handle Zone 5 temperatures of minus 20 degrees F is really only exposed to temperatures closer to 32 degrees F if it is covered by snow. The deeper the snow, the more likely the temperature will be warmer on the bottom. A light layer of snow will not have the same insulating effect.

I get most concerned by frigid temperatures when no snow or little snow is forecast along with the cold. Tonight is such a case. Snow is in the forecast, but not much. So to try and protect my Zone 5 plants, I add my own insulation.

My young lavender plants are the most susceptible to possible damage. Zone 5-8 plants, they may suffer from temperatures below minus 20 F. By surrounding them with insulating material, I hope to achieve the same effect as a deep snow where the bottom temperature is close to the freezing point, because the ground is frozen, while the outer layers absorb the severe cold.

A cold lavender plant.

A simple method of insulating plants is to cover them with straw or similar material. The air pockets created within the straw insulate in the same manner as the smaller air pockets in layers of snow. A light layer of snowfall on top of the straw will increase the insulating value.

I covered each of my young plants with a clump of hay. The piles are slightly compacted to increase the quantity of hay blades but loose enough to allow air pockets. There is no reason to worry about restricting sunlight because the plant is dormant and there's no sun today anyway.

Adding a covering. More is better.

The plants were protected by tomato cages so that dogs and grandchildren wouldn't trample them. Today the cages do double duty by helping the hay stay in place as winds pick up. It's snowing now and should snow for the next day or two. Though it won't be as deep as recent snow in the Northeast, it should mound over the hay and also help hold it in place.

When all of the weather effects are over, the temperature at the base of the plants should be warmer than the outside air. I only need a four or five degree buffer to get the air temperature back into the Zone 5 range, but with physics on my side, I should expect even greater protection than that.

My lavender, cages, and hay.

The cover can stay in place as long as the temperatures are cold. Once the sun comes out and starts melting the snow, the hay needs to be removed. Wet hay can quickly rot and begin to decompose. When it does that around a plant, the plant can also be susceptible to rot and damage. With warmer temperatures there is no reason to maintain the insulation and removing it allows air back in to warm the plant and dry up any potential areas that are too wet.

Tonight and tomorrow may be the coldest point of this winter. Tomorrow's high for Colorado Springs is forecast to be minus three degrees F. Yes, that's three degrees below zero for the high temperature. As we move closer to spring, daily temperatures will increase gradually. If my plants get safely past the extreme lows tonight they should have little difficulty surviving to the warm days ahead. My hay-covering efforts should help. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Tonight is when my garden moves from USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 5 to Zone 4. I've written much about the Hardiness Zones in recent weeks and the next few days exemplify the reason why. Officially my zip code resides in Zone 5, meaning average low temperatures can reach minus 20 degrees F. The forecast low temperature tonight for Colorado Springs is -20 F, the bottom edge of Zone 5. Because I live at an elevation of 1,000 feet higher than the city, I can expect my temperature to be at least three degrees colder, venturing into Zone 4 territory.

Plants that are identified as suitable for Zone 5 may be damaged when temperatures drop below that threshold. I try to plant Zone 3 and Zone 4 plants when I can find them, but many of my favorites are listed as appropriate for Zones 5-8. That means they may be injured or killed when temperatures drop this low.

An important factor in using the Hardiness Zones to determine plant survivability is how much snow is expected along with the cold temperatures. Snow is a great insulator against the extreme cold. It protects the roots of the dormant plants from the frigid conditions. Plants suitable for Zone 5 and Zone 6 can actually handle temperatures in the Zone 4 realm if they're protected by snow cover. The snow is cold, but it tempers the ground, roots, and base of the plant. The deeper the snow, the better the protection. Believe it or not, the temperature of snow on the bottom is warmer than snow on the top.

The temperature of snow is close to the temperature at which water freezes, 32 degrees F (or 0 degrees C). The surface temperature may be colder than that because it is affected by the temperature of the surrounding air. The temperature of the snow on the soil is much closer to the freezing point, 32 degrees F. So a plant that can handle Zone 5 temperatures of minus 20 degrees F is really only exposed to temperatures closer to 32 degrees F if it is covered by snow. The deeper the snow, the more likely the temperature will be warmer on the bottom. A light layer of snow will not have the same insulating effect.

I get most concerned by frigid temperatures when no snow or little snow is forecast along with the cold. Tonight is such a case. Snow is in the forecast, but not much. So to try and protect my Zone 5 plants, I add my own insulation.

My young lavender plants are the most susceptible to possible damage. Zone 5-8 plants, they may suffer from temperatures below minus 20 F. By surrounding them with insulating material, I hope to achieve the same effect as a deep snow where the bottom temperature is close to the freezing point, because the ground is frozen, while the outer layers absorb the severe cold.

A cold lavender plant.

A simple method of insulating plants is to cover them with straw or similar material. The air pockets created within the straw insulate in the same manner as the smaller air pockets in layers of snow. A light layer of snowfall on top of the straw will increase the insulating value.

I covered each of my young plants with a clump of hay. The piles are slightly compacted to increase the quantity of hay blades but loose enough to allow air pockets. There is no reason to worry about restricting sunlight because the plant is dormant and there's no sun today anyway.

Adding a covering. More is better.

The plants were protected by tomato cages so that dogs and grandchildren wouldn't trample them. Today the cages do double duty by helping the hay stay in place as winds pick up. It's snowing now and should snow for the next day or two. Though it won't be as deep as recent snow in the Northeast, it should mound over the hay and also help hold it in place.

When all of the weather effects are over, the temperature at the base of the plants should be warmer than the outside air. I only need a four or five degree buffer to get the air temperature back into the Zone 5 range, but with physics on my side, I should expect even greater protection than that.

My lavender, cages, and hay.

The cover can stay in place as long as the temperatures are cold. Once the sun comes out and starts melting the snow, the hay needs to be removed. Wet hay can quickly rot and begin to decompose. When it does that around a plant, the plant can also be susceptible to rot and damage. With warmer temperatures there is no reason to maintain the insulation and removing it allows air back in to warm the plant and dry up any potential areas that are too wet.

Tonight and tomorrow may be the coldest point of this winter. Tomorrow's high for Colorado Springs is forecast to be minus three degrees F. Yes, that's three degrees below zero for the high temperature. As we move closer to spring, daily temperatures will increase gradually. If my plants get safely past the extreme lows tonight they should have little difficulty surviving to the warm days ahead. My hay-covering efforts should help. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

How to Butcher a Tree

There's a right way to prune a tree and there's definitely many wrong ways to prune a tree. It's heartbreaking to see how the utilities company destroyed a number of my pine trees this week through wanton disregard for correct pruning practice. In an effort to free power lines from potential branch encroachment, they lopped off all of the tree tops, effectively eliminating any future vertical growth.


I didn't plant these trees. They were either planted or selectively thinned by the person who lived here a few decades ago. They now stand, in their abused state, as an example of what can happen if you don't anticipate future growth of any plant you choose to add to your landscape. I have to assume that the power lines were installed when the house was built. The trees were placed as a visual and physical border separating the front yard from the road about the same time, beneath the power lines.

Though not directly under the lines, their growth pattern put them close. After many years with no problems and many years when the utilities company saw no issues, some of the upper branches were growing within a few feet of live, electric lines. When I saw the tree-cutting crew arrive, I assumed they would only cut off the branches that might pose problems. Of course you know what happens when you assume. They sheared off the top third of the trees; I suspect that is company policy when it comes to clearing lines.


Before.
Now the tops are gone.
I suppose what annoys me the most is that I understand how trees grow and assumed that a "trained" tree-cutting crew also knew how trees grow (there's that word again). With selective and appropriate pruning the lines could be cleared of any possible branch problems and the trees would have retained their ability to grow and look like trees. Now they're hacked to the point that I will have to remove many of them.

As you know, trees grow vertically. Pine trees grow with a central leader. That's the single trunk from which all of the branches spread. Occasionally you might see a tree with another leader challenging for supremacy, but the typical pattern is one central trunk. That pinnacle grows higher every year. As it climbs, new buds and new branches appear and add to the structure.

Older branches, closer to the base, continue to thicken and grow. The interesting point about branches is that they'll always stay in the same spot. A branch that is three feet off the ground will always be three feet off the ground. A tree like a pine achieves its conical shape because the older branches at the bottom spread out laterally as they grow bigger. The new branches at the top are smaller and closer to the main trunk. In time they will get thicker and longer and add to the conical shape for newer, smaller branches above.

If you cut off the pine's central leader, this growth cycle is destroyed. No new vertical growth will happen and no new branches will appear. The lower branches will continue to get bigger and eventually the tree will look like a big, squat cylinder. The branches at the top will spread horizontally at about the same distance as the lower ones. Gone is the classic conical pine tree.

The tree decapitated.

The primary lesson here, and one that I've written about before, is that you need to anticipate the future when you plant. I planted two fruit trees about 30 feet apart last year. They look odd, these two small trees standing, seemingly, all by themselves in the expanse of yard. But these are full size apple and cherry trees that should each have a spread of about 25 feet when fully grown, nearly 15 feet on each side. When viewed in that context, these trees will be nearly bumping up to each other many years from now.

I have a single Golden Rain Tree standing by itself in the middle of the field. When it reaches a potential 40-feet height and 30-feet spread, it will visually dominate the area. I have the patience to wait for that and the vision to plan for it.

From a single mint plant that may potentially overrun your garden to a few raspberry canes that may do the same, you need to think about a plant's growth pattern when selecting the best location. Typical vegetable gardens are easy because most of the plants will be gone at the end of the season; you only need to be concerned about the ones that will survive the winter. For perennial plants, bushes, hedges, and trees, you need to think about how they'll look in a year, in two, in five, and beyond that.

Don't plant young trees close together unless you intend on thinning them out as they grow. Don't plant trees next to your house or near power lines or other structures, unless you want to worry about how to remove them when they get too big. Don't plant trees in your garden unless you have a plan for the shade that will inevitably expand each year.

I'm trying to decide what to do with my front yard now that the trees are a macabre spectacle. They really do need to come down and be put out of their misery. Any replacement trees need to be low-growing ones. I'll probably go with shrubs and bushes, in addition to ones I already have planted. With the trees gone there will be enough sun for colorful perennials to highlight the entry drive. The whole personality of the front entrance will be different and offer another blank palette for my gardening desires.

If given the choice, I would prefer the trees not to have been assaulted. In our forested neighborhood, they looked very natural. Lack of trees is more unnatural. If you have a choice, plant carefully. If you don't, you may be victim of a tree-maiming crew in the future.
There's a right way to prune a tree and there's definitely many wrong ways to prune a tree. It's heartbreaking to see how the utilities company destroyed a number of my pine trees this week through wanton disregard for correct pruning practice. In an effort to free power lines from potential branch encroachment, they lopped off all of the tree tops, effectively eliminating any future vertical growth.


I didn't plant these trees. They were either planted or selectively thinned by the person who lived here a few decades ago. They now stand, in their abused state, as an example of what can happen if you don't anticipate future growth of any plant you choose to add to your landscape. I have to assume that the power lines were installed when the house was built. The trees were placed as a visual and physical border separating the front yard from the road about the same time, beneath the power lines.

Though not directly under the lines, their growth pattern put them close. After many years with no problems and many years when the utilities company saw no issues, some of the upper branches were growing within a few feet of live, electric lines. When I saw the tree-cutting crew arrive, I assumed they would only cut off the branches that might pose problems. Of course you know what happens when you assume. They sheared off the top third of the trees; I suspect that is company policy when it comes to clearing lines.


Before.
Now the tops are gone.
I suppose what annoys me the most is that I understand how trees grow and assumed that a "trained" tree-cutting crew also knew how trees grow (there's that word again). With selective and appropriate pruning the lines could be cleared of any possible branch problems and the trees would have retained their ability to grow and look like trees. Now they're hacked to the point that I will have to remove many of them.

As you know, trees grow vertically. Pine trees grow with a central leader. That's the single trunk from which all of the branches spread. Occasionally you might see a tree with another leader challenging for supremacy, but the typical pattern is one central trunk. That pinnacle grows higher every year. As it climbs, new buds and new branches appear and add to the structure.

Older branches, closer to the base, continue to thicken and grow. The interesting point about branches is that they'll always stay in the same spot. A branch that is three feet off the ground will always be three feet off the ground. A tree like a pine achieves its conical shape because the older branches at the bottom spread out laterally as they grow bigger. The new branches at the top are smaller and closer to the main trunk. In time they will get thicker and longer and add to the conical shape for newer, smaller branches above.

If you cut off the pine's central leader, this growth cycle is destroyed. No new vertical growth will happen and no new branches will appear. The lower branches will continue to get bigger and eventually the tree will look like a big, squat cylinder. The branches at the top will spread horizontally at about the same distance as the lower ones. Gone is the classic conical pine tree.

The tree decapitated.

The primary lesson here, and one that I've written about before, is that you need to anticipate the future when you plant. I planted two fruit trees about 30 feet apart last year. They look odd, these two small trees standing, seemingly, all by themselves in the expanse of yard. But these are full size apple and cherry trees that should each have a spread of about 25 feet when fully grown, nearly 15 feet on each side. When viewed in that context, these trees will be nearly bumping up to each other many years from now.

I have a single Golden Rain Tree standing by itself in the middle of the field. When it reaches a potential 40-feet height and 30-feet spread, it will visually dominate the area. I have the patience to wait for that and the vision to plan for it.

From a single mint plant that may potentially overrun your garden to a few raspberry canes that may do the same, you need to think about a plant's growth pattern when selecting the best location. Typical vegetable gardens are easy because most of the plants will be gone at the end of the season; you only need to be concerned about the ones that will survive the winter. For perennial plants, bushes, hedges, and trees, you need to think about how they'll look in a year, in two, in five, and beyond that.

Don't plant young trees close together unless you intend on thinning them out as they grow. Don't plant trees next to your house or near power lines or other structures, unless you want to worry about how to remove them when they get too big. Don't plant trees in your garden unless you have a plan for the shade that will inevitably expand each year.

I'm trying to decide what to do with my front yard now that the trees are a macabre spectacle. They really do need to come down and be put out of their misery. Any replacement trees need to be low-growing ones. I'll probably go with shrubs and bushes, in addition to ones I already have planted. With the trees gone there will be enough sun for colorful perennials to highlight the entry drive. The whole personality of the front entrance will be different and offer another blank palette for my gardening desires.

If given the choice, I would prefer the trees not to have been assaulted. In our forested neighborhood, they looked very natural. Lack of trees is more unnatural. If you have a choice, plant carefully. If you don't, you may be victim of a tree-maiming crew in the future.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

How to Build a Raised Bed in Five Easy Steps

I'm a big advocate of raised bed gardening. You can custom design the size of the beds. They can be square, rectangular, shallow, deep, or any variation of those aspects. You can select what soil to fill them, which is often better than the natural soil we garden in. You don't walk in them so the soil is less compacted. They're easy to plant, irrigate, weed, and harvest. They warm up faster in spring for earlier planting. They add a sense of order to a garden.


One of the best factors is that they're easy to build, though many gardeners find them intimidating. Here's the basic process of creating raised beds to show how simple it is.

Step 1:  Start with three 8-foot long boards. Cut one of the boards in half. The size of the boards will determine the depth of the bed. 2” x 10” boards will give you a bed up to 10” deep. 2” x 12” boards will give a bed 12” deep.




Step 2:  Arrange the boards into a rectangle and screw them together to form a box. The box will be 4’ x 8’.


Step 3:  Place the box on the ground in an area of the garden that you’ve prepared. Digging up the soil beneath the bed will give roots more space to grow.














 Step 3A:  If you don’t want to dig up the soil beneath the box, you can place it on the ground and spread 5 or 6 layers of newspaper on the bottom to kill the grass. The newspaper will decompose.














Step 4:  Level the box. Add or dig out soil to make all four sides level.


Step 5:  Fill the box with the soil of your choice. This is an important step because you have the opportunity to have better soil in raised beds than anywhere else in your garden. You can purchase custom soil from many nurseries or garden centers.





 That's all there is to to it. Now you're ready to plant.


I built a number of raised beds to create a vegetable garden. Depending on your space, maybe only one or two will fit. The beds don't have to be eight feet long. I have a 4' x 4' bed for my asparagus and another for salad greens. Some of my beds are six inches deep, some are eight, some are ten, and a couple are 12 inches deep. I choose the plants for each depending on the depth that the roots grow.

It only took two days to build an entire garden with seven raised beds and that included the time to make two trips to the garden center for loads of soil.

As soon as the weather warms a bit, I'll be ready to start planting with minimal cultivation or tilling. I'm so pleased with the results from last year that I'm already planning to add three or four new beds this year. That should only be one day of work. How easy is that?
I'm a big advocate of raised bed gardening. You can custom design the size of the beds. They can be square, rectangular, shallow, deep, or any variation of those aspects. You can select what soil to fill them, which is often better than the natural soil we garden in. You don't walk in them so the soil is less compacted. They're easy to plant, irrigate, weed, and harvest. They warm up faster in spring for earlier planting. They add a sense of order to a garden.


One of the best factors is that they're easy to build, though many gardeners find them intimidating. Here's the basic process of creating raised beds to show how simple it is.

Step 1:  Start with three 8-foot long boards. Cut one of the boards in half. The size of the boards will determine the depth of the bed. 2” x 10” boards will give you a bed up to 10” deep. 2” x 12” boards will give a bed 12” deep.




Step 2:  Arrange the boards into a rectangle and screw them together to form a box. The box will be 4’ x 8’.


Step 3:  Place the box on the ground in an area of the garden that you’ve prepared. Digging up the soil beneath the bed will give roots more space to grow.














 Step 3A:  If you don’t want to dig up the soil beneath the box, you can place it on the ground and spread 5 or 6 layers of newspaper on the bottom to kill the grass. The newspaper will decompose.














Step 4:  Level the box. Add or dig out soil to make all four sides level.


Step 5:  Fill the box with the soil of your choice. This is an important step because you have the opportunity to have better soil in raised beds than anywhere else in your garden. You can purchase custom soil from many nurseries or garden centers.





 That's all there is to to it. Now you're ready to plant.


I built a number of raised beds to create a vegetable garden. Depending on your space, maybe only one or two will fit. The beds don't have to be eight feet long. I have a 4' x 4' bed for my asparagus and another for salad greens. Some of my beds are six inches deep, some are eight, some are ten, and a couple are 12 inches deep. I choose the plants for each depending on the depth that the roots grow.

It only took two days to build an entire garden with seven raised beds and that included the time to make two trips to the garden center for loads of soil.

As soon as the weather warms a bit, I'll be ready to start planting with minimal cultivation or tilling. I'm so pleased with the results from last year that I'm already planning to add three or four new beds this year. That should only be one day of work. How easy is that?

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Trees Like Prunes

January and February are perfect for most tree pruning. While you can prune trees almost any time of the year, now is a good time because you can see the internal structure of deciduous trees with the leaves off, trees are dormant and pruning stress is less severe, and there aren't many other outside gardening activities to do. Late winter to early spring is when most experts recommend heavy tree pruning and if you look at the calendar, that's now.

There are a few primary reasons to prune trees. The USDA lists three: safety, health, and aesthetics. I prune for all of these reasons.

Safety pruning covers many areas. There were trees in our yard that interfered with mowing the lawn. Invariably I would hit my head or impale myself while riding the mower. I took off many of those branches. That's pruning for safety. If you keep having to duck under a branch on a path you might consider removing it. I cut off pine branches that hindered the view out of the windshield as we drove from our driveway onto the road. If weak or over-sized branches begin to interfere with power lines or overhang your house, removing them is a good idea.

This branch is too low.

One of the main reasons I prune is for aesthetic value. Trees are a major component in any garden's appeal; a good-looking tree can benefit the garden and landscape. The aesthetics are a personal choice. I like a balanced look in trees with branches looking natural, yet orderly. I'll prune branches that are too close together or that aren't symmetrical to neighboring ones. It brings out the artist in me as I sculpt the landscape through selective removal of limbs.

This small branch grew up, then crossed over and down. It was unsightly.

The health of the tree is the third primary reason. Diseased or infested limbs should always be removed. If snow or wind breaks a branch, pruning the affected limb correctly can improve healing. I look for crowded areas of growth and prune to increase airflow and light throughout the tree; this can lessen pest problems. I also look for branches that are interfering with others and prune to allow proper growth.
A dead branch that needed to go.

Pruning is more than just cutting off a branch. There's a right way to do it; if done correctly, the tree will naturally cover up the wound and heal well. If the pruning cut is bad, the tree may be more susceptible to insect damage, disease, or rot.

For thinning out branches, cutting off twigs from a limb is as simple as clipping or sawing it cleanly and evenly. You want to avoid leaving nubs that stick out; remove as much of the twig or branch as you can.

For removal cuts next to the trunk you'll want to determine the proper cutting angle. Look for the branch collar and branch bark ridge. These are technical names for the bulges at the base of branches. The collar is the thicker band of growth at the bottom of the branch where it grows from the trunk; the bark ridge is the crumbled area at the top where the bark of the trunk meets the bark of the branch. If a branch is cut off just outside the branch collar, about 1/4 inch, tree tissue will grow over the cut like a donut and protect it from decay. Ideally you'll want to prune off branches before they reach two inches thick. The cut will rarely be flush with the trunk and usually angles out slightly from the top to the bottom.

A cut covered with dried sap and beginning to heal

For particularly large limbs, make an initial shallow cut into the bottom of the branch about six inches or so outside the branch collar; this is to reduce the chance that the bark will strip off in the next step. Then cut completely through the branch a few inches beyond that. The third and final cut should be just outside the branch collar. Because you've already removed most of the branch, the weight and size of the final piece you're removing is very manageable.

Branches awaiting the final cut.
Some trees like elms and maples will "bleed" when cut during the winter. The oozing sap can drip for days before drying out and beginning the healing process. That's why maple syrup growers harvest the sap at this time of year. For those trees I prefer to wait until late spring or early summer. I pruned my Silver Maple at that time and had fewer problems with oozing.

I don't recommend putting a dressing on the cut. It used to be thought that applying something like a poultice to a tree wound would promote healing and protect it from harmful organisms. It's found that the opposite is often true.

Some of my pruning tools.
The tools for pruning are pretty simple. I prefer bypass pruning shears versus anvil shears for cutting small twigs; the anvil doesn't allow as close a cut in my opinion. Loppers are bigger two-handed versions of shears and cut finger size branches with no problem. Pruning saws and Japanese saws are hand-size tools that cut quickly through medium-sized limbs. A bow saw makes short work of thicker branches. And a chainsaw is unrivaled for big cuts. For tall branches, a telescoping pole pruner can reach ten feet high or more.

With practice, pruning is quick, easy, and benefits the tree and the aesthetics of the garden. Pruning fruit trees can be more complex and I'll cover that in another article. There are other issues when pruning bushes and I'll cover that later too. For now, take a good, hard look at your trees. Look for damaged branches, unsightly branches, overcrowded branches, and annoying branches. Remove them and have fun with it.
January and February are perfect for most tree pruning. While you can prune trees almost any time of the year, now is a good time because you can see the internal structure of deciduous trees with the leaves off, trees are dormant and pruning stress is less severe, and there aren't many other outside gardening activities to do. Late winter to early spring is when most experts recommend heavy tree pruning and if you look at the calendar, that's now.

There are a few primary reasons to prune trees. The USDA lists three: safety, health, and aesthetics. I prune for all of these reasons.

Safety pruning covers many areas. There were trees in our yard that interfered with mowing the lawn. Invariably I would hit my head or impale myself while riding the mower. I took off many of those branches. That's pruning for safety. If you keep having to duck under a branch on a path you might consider removing it. I cut off pine branches that hindered the view out of the windshield as we drove from our driveway onto the road. If weak or over-sized branches begin to interfere with power lines or overhang your house, removing them is a good idea.

This branch is too low.

One of the main reasons I prune is for aesthetic value. Trees are a major component in any garden's appeal; a good-looking tree can benefit the garden and landscape. The aesthetics are a personal choice. I like a balanced look in trees with branches looking natural, yet orderly. I'll prune branches that are too close together or that aren't symmetrical to neighboring ones. It brings out the artist in me as I sculpt the landscape through selective removal of limbs.

This small branch grew up, then crossed over and down. It was unsightly.

The health of the tree is the third primary reason. Diseased or infested limbs should always be removed. If snow or wind breaks a branch, pruning the affected limb correctly can improve healing. I look for crowded areas of growth and prune to increase airflow and light throughout the tree; this can lessen pest problems. I also look for branches that are interfering with others and prune to allow proper growth.
A dead branch that needed to go.

Pruning is more than just cutting off a branch. There's a right way to do it; if done correctly, the tree will naturally cover up the wound and heal well. If the pruning cut is bad, the tree may be more susceptible to insect damage, disease, or rot.

For thinning out branches, cutting off twigs from a limb is as simple as clipping or sawing it cleanly and evenly. You want to avoid leaving nubs that stick out; remove as much of the twig or branch as you can.

For removal cuts next to the trunk you'll want to determine the proper cutting angle. Look for the branch collar and branch bark ridge. These are technical names for the bulges at the base of branches. The collar is the thicker band of growth at the bottom of the branch where it grows from the trunk; the bark ridge is the crumbled area at the top where the bark of the trunk meets the bark of the branch. If a branch is cut off just outside the branch collar, about 1/4 inch, tree tissue will grow over the cut like a donut and protect it from decay. Ideally you'll want to prune off branches before they reach two inches thick. The cut will rarely be flush with the trunk and usually angles out slightly from the top to the bottom.

A cut covered with dried sap and beginning to heal

For particularly large limbs, make an initial shallow cut into the bottom of the branch about six inches or so outside the branch collar; this is to reduce the chance that the bark will strip off in the next step. Then cut completely through the branch a few inches beyond that. The third and final cut should be just outside the branch collar. Because you've already removed most of the branch, the weight and size of the final piece you're removing is very manageable.

Branches awaiting the final cut.
Some trees like elms and maples will "bleed" when cut during the winter. The oozing sap can drip for days before drying out and beginning the healing process. That's why maple syrup growers harvest the sap at this time of year. For those trees I prefer to wait until late spring or early summer. I pruned my Silver Maple at that time and had fewer problems with oozing.

I don't recommend putting a dressing on the cut. It used to be thought that applying something like a poultice to a tree wound would promote healing and protect it from harmful organisms. It's found that the opposite is often true.

Some of my pruning tools.
The tools for pruning are pretty simple. I prefer bypass pruning shears versus anvil shears for cutting small twigs; the anvil doesn't allow as close a cut in my opinion. Loppers are bigger two-handed versions of shears and cut finger size branches with no problem. Pruning saws and Japanese saws are hand-size tools that cut quickly through medium-sized limbs. A bow saw makes short work of thicker branches. And a chainsaw is unrivaled for big cuts. For tall branches, a telescoping pole pruner can reach ten feet high or more.

With practice, pruning is quick, easy, and benefits the tree and the aesthetics of the garden. Pruning fruit trees can be more complex and I'll cover that in another article. There are other issues when pruning bushes and I'll cover that later too. For now, take a good, hard look at your trees. Look for damaged branches, unsightly branches, overcrowded branches, and annoying branches. Remove them and have fun with it.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

But Beware of Broken Pots

Potted perennial plants need water during cold months.  Some of the benefits of pots, like their ability to warm soil faster when the sun comes out and good drainage, can be detrimental to potted plants in the winter. Often snowfall isn't enough to keep roots from drying out and without supplemental watering the plants can die.

In open ground, the roots of plants aren't confined to a small space. Rain and snow melt moisten the soil relatively evenly and it remains moist for awhile because evaporation slows down in colder weather. When the ground freezes it does so in a uniform fashion. During an especially dry winter you may need to water your garden beds occasionally, but most perennial plants are adapted to handle harsh conditions.

The soil in pots can partially thaw on a warm day and refreeze when the sun goes down. Any moisture from snow will drain or evaporate more quickly than a standard garden bed. These changes in the soil can stress a plant to death. With a little extra attention you can help moderate conditions by recognizing these changes and acting to save your potted plants.

Plants don't need much water during winter. They aren't typically growing during the cold; they're dormant. They're alive, but nutrients aren't flowing from the roots and photosynthetic sugars aren't replenishing energy. Water isn't needed to sustain this process. Instead, water is primarily needed to keep the roots from desiccating, from drying out.

My herb garden.

I grow many of my herbs in pots. Most of them are annuals, but the rosemary, oregano, tarragon, and mint return every year. My thyme stays viable most of the winter; I can snip off usable portions in December. After prolonged periods of dry weather I test the soil and water if needed.

How do I test the soil? By sticking my finger in it. If it's frozen and I can't push in more than an inch, it doesn't need water. If my finger penetrates easily and the soil is dry, it's time to water. You won't need as much water in winter as during the growing season. You only need enough to moisten the soil, not soak it.

You won't need to water as often as during warm weather. Every couple weeks or even just once a month may be enough. When the soil is frozen you shouldn't water, so it's only during the time when the sun comes out and begins a thaw that you need to think about it. You're just trying to avoid long, sustained periods of dry soil.

Too much water in a pot can have devastating results. Remember that water expands when it freezes. Also remember that a pot is a confined space. If the soil is saturated when it freezes, it can break the confines of the pot. I've lost a few Terra Cotta pots in years past because I watered too much before a freeze. I use plastic pots now for many of my plantings, particularly herbs.

The pots that broke during a freeze.

If you have pots exclusively for annuals, you don't need to water them during the winter. The soil will dry out and you'll need to spend extra effort in the spring getting the moisture content up before planting, but you won't have to worry about pots breaking during the cold.

I don't water these pots; they're used for annuals.

It's all very easy. Every now and then stick your finger in a pot. If it's dry stick your finger in another pot. If it's dry too, pull out your watering can and spend a few seconds pouring water into the pots with perennials in them. Do this a couple times during the winter and your loss due to winterkill should be reduced.
Potted perennial plants need water during cold months.  Some of the benefits of pots, like their ability to warm soil faster when the sun comes out and good drainage, can be detrimental to potted plants in the winter. Often snowfall isn't enough to keep roots from drying out and without supplemental watering the plants can die.

In open ground, the roots of plants aren't confined to a small space. Rain and snow melt moisten the soil relatively evenly and it remains moist for awhile because evaporation slows down in colder weather. When the ground freezes it does so in a uniform fashion. During an especially dry winter you may need to water your garden beds occasionally, but most perennial plants are adapted to handle harsh conditions.

The soil in pots can partially thaw on a warm day and refreeze when the sun goes down. Any moisture from snow will drain or evaporate more quickly than a standard garden bed. These changes in the soil can stress a plant to death. With a little extra attention you can help moderate conditions by recognizing these changes and acting to save your potted plants.

Plants don't need much water during winter. They aren't typically growing during the cold; they're dormant. They're alive, but nutrients aren't flowing from the roots and photosynthetic sugars aren't replenishing energy. Water isn't needed to sustain this process. Instead, water is primarily needed to keep the roots from desiccating, from drying out.

My herb garden.

I grow many of my herbs in pots. Most of them are annuals, but the rosemary, oregano, tarragon, and mint return every year. My thyme stays viable most of the winter; I can snip off usable portions in December. After prolonged periods of dry weather I test the soil and water if needed.

How do I test the soil? By sticking my finger in it. If it's frozen and I can't push in more than an inch, it doesn't need water. If my finger penetrates easily and the soil is dry, it's time to water. You won't need as much water in winter as during the growing season. You only need enough to moisten the soil, not soak it.

You won't need to water as often as during warm weather. Every couple weeks or even just once a month may be enough. When the soil is frozen you shouldn't water, so it's only during the time when the sun comes out and begins a thaw that you need to think about it. You're just trying to avoid long, sustained periods of dry soil.

Too much water in a pot can have devastating results. Remember that water expands when it freezes. Also remember that a pot is a confined space. If the soil is saturated when it freezes, it can break the confines of the pot. I've lost a few Terra Cotta pots in years past because I watered too much before a freeze. I use plastic pots now for many of my plantings, particularly herbs.

The pots that broke during a freeze.

If you have pots exclusively for annuals, you don't need to water them during the winter. The soil will dry out and you'll need to spend extra effort in the spring getting the moisture content up before planting, but you won't have to worry about pots breaking during the cold.

I don't water these pots; they're used for annuals.

It's all very easy. Every now and then stick your finger in a pot. If it's dry stick your finger in another pot. If it's dry too, pull out your watering can and spend a few seconds pouring water into the pots with perennials in them. Do this a couple times during the winter and your loss due to winterkill should be reduced.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Know Your Important Garden Dates

The last frost date is one of the most important tools you should have in your gardening bag of tricks. That's the date in the spring when it's "safe" to plant with less worry about a late spring frost, or "light freeze". Most state Extension offices or websites can give you the date for your area. In Colorado, you can find dates at Colorado State University's online site. You can also find regional charts online that give general frost information like the one at "The Old Farmer's Almanac" or through climate statistics at NOAA.

The last frost date is an important date because most seed packets and gardening guides reference it. It also gives you a guideline for starting outdoor gardening activities.

The reason I put "safe" within the protective caveat of quotation marks above, is that the last frost date is the date of the average last spring frost; this provides a 50 percent chance that there won't be freezing temperatures past that point. If you're a "glass is half empty" kind of gardener, that also means that there is a 50 percent chance that there will be freezing temperatures past that date. Depending on how much you like to gamble with your plants, you can plant seedlings before that date or you can wait until there is no chance of a freeze.

I prefer to use the 10 percent date. That means there's only a 10 percent probability that a frost will hit after that date (or 90 percent probability that it won't). Most publications and Extension information will list both the 50 percent date and the 10 percent date. For expensive or very tender plants, I prefer a better probability of success and often wait for the zero percent date. All of these are determined by historical climate data.

According to Colorado State University Extension, in Colorado Springs the average last frost is May 6 and the 10 percent date is May 18 (May 4 and May 15, respectively, according to NOAA statistical data). That's a difference of almost two weeks by both measures. To me that two weeks is worth the wait. I've seen snow fall during the second week of May; that's not good for warm season plants. For tomatoes and peppers I, and many other local gardeners, usually wait until Memorial Day, the last Monday in May, to plant. That gives me a virtual guarantee of warm weather. There has never been a freeze past June 2nd, only a few days after Memorial Day.

Your last frost date will be different. In many parts of California it will be in February, in Louisiana it might be March, and in Illinois and most of the United States it will probably be some time in April. If you don't know your specific 50 percent and 10 percent dates, check with your Extension office or ask experienced, local gardeners when they plant and why.

On the other end of the calendar is the first frost date. That's the average date of the first frost in the fall. As in the spring, you can find the 50 percent date and the 10 percent date in publications and online. The length of your growing season is determined by knowing these two dates. Here our first frost date is October 6, the point with a 50 percent probability of frost before and after that date. September 18 is the 10 percent date, when there's only a 10 percent chance of a frost before that point. Using the average dates, we have a frost-free growing season of 152 days. Using the 10 percent dates we have a season of 126 days, a difference of nearly a month.

That's the number you need to know before you plant vegetable seeds or transplants. If the length of time on the seed packet or plant tag is less than your frost-free growing season then the plant should have enough time to fruit before a frost. The greater the difference, the longer the plants will produce for you. My 75-day tomatoes should provide ripe fruit for more than a month before the danger of frost, even using the 10 percent dates. If I plant 90-day tomatoes, I may only have a few weeks of fruit. For that reason, I try to choose plants with small numbers on the packet. I won't even try beans or melons that have 120 days to harvest.

The last frost date comes into play when you grow from seeds. Packets might say "start indoors 6 weeks before Last Frost"; that usually means start the seeds in indoor pots six weeks before the 50 percent last frost date. For direct sowing outside, packets might say "Plant after all danger of frost has passed"; for this I would use the 10 percent date.

Every locale is different and microclimates will affect growing conditions too. Know your last and first frost dates as determined by your state Extension or NOAA. Use those as a guideline in determining the actual dates in your own garden. Try keeping a gardening journal and track temperatures in your backyard. If your "official" last frost is May 6, but you notice year after year that a frost hits after that date, adjust your planting schedule accordingly.

I know there are many numbers here and it can become a little confusing. Once you know your specific dates, use them. I'm comfortable with my Memorial Day planting because I've never lost a plant to frost after that date. I am willing to fudge that a little and plant earlier if I see a weather forecast with sustained warm temperatures leading up to that day. On the other end I plan on the first frost hitting about October 1. In my garden I plan for a frost-free growing season of a little more than 120 days.

It's all about matching the plant's required growing season with the season available in your garden. With a little research you can be more successful in matching the two.
The last frost date is one of the most important tools you should have in your gardening bag of tricks. That's the date in the spring when it's "safe" to plant with less worry about a late spring frost, or "light freeze". Most state Extension offices or websites can give you the date for your area. In Colorado, you can find dates at Colorado State University's online site. You can also find regional charts online that give general frost information like the one at "The Old Farmer's Almanac" or through climate statistics at NOAA.

The last frost date is an important date because most seed packets and gardening guides reference it. It also gives you a guideline for starting outdoor gardening activities.

The reason I put "safe" within the protective caveat of quotation marks above, is that the last frost date is the date of the average last spring frost; this provides a 50 percent chance that there won't be freezing temperatures past that point. If you're a "glass is half empty" kind of gardener, that also means that there is a 50 percent chance that there will be freezing temperatures past that date. Depending on how much you like to gamble with your plants, you can plant seedlings before that date or you can wait until there is no chance of a freeze.

I prefer to use the 10 percent date. That means there's only a 10 percent probability that a frost will hit after that date (or 90 percent probability that it won't). Most publications and Extension information will list both the 50 percent date and the 10 percent date. For expensive or very tender plants, I prefer a better probability of success and often wait for the zero percent date. All of these are determined by historical climate data.

According to Colorado State University Extension, in Colorado Springs the average last frost is May 6 and the 10 percent date is May 18 (May 4 and May 15, respectively, according to NOAA statistical data). That's a difference of almost two weeks by both measures. To me that two weeks is worth the wait. I've seen snow fall during the second week of May; that's not good for warm season plants. For tomatoes and peppers I, and many other local gardeners, usually wait until Memorial Day, the last Monday in May, to plant. That gives me a virtual guarantee of warm weather. There has never been a freeze past June 2nd, only a few days after Memorial Day.

Your last frost date will be different. In many parts of California it will be in February, in Louisiana it might be March, and in Illinois and most of the United States it will probably be some time in April. If you don't know your specific 50 percent and 10 percent dates, check with your Extension office or ask experienced, local gardeners when they plant and why.

On the other end of the calendar is the first frost date. That's the average date of the first frost in the fall. As in the spring, you can find the 50 percent date and the 10 percent date in publications and online. The length of your growing season is determined by knowing these two dates. Here our first frost date is October 6, the point with a 50 percent probability of frost before and after that date. September 18 is the 10 percent date, when there's only a 10 percent chance of a frost before that point. Using the average dates, we have a frost-free growing season of 152 days. Using the 10 percent dates we have a season of 126 days, a difference of nearly a month.

That's the number you need to know before you plant vegetable seeds or transplants. If the length of time on the seed packet or plant tag is less than your frost-free growing season then the plant should have enough time to fruit before a frost. The greater the difference, the longer the plants will produce for you. My 75-day tomatoes should provide ripe fruit for more than a month before the danger of frost, even using the 10 percent dates. If I plant 90-day tomatoes, I may only have a few weeks of fruit. For that reason, I try to choose plants with small numbers on the packet. I won't even try beans or melons that have 120 days to harvest.

The last frost date comes into play when you grow from seeds. Packets might say "start indoors 6 weeks before Last Frost"; that usually means start the seeds in indoor pots six weeks before the 50 percent last frost date. For direct sowing outside, packets might say "Plant after all danger of frost has passed"; for this I would use the 10 percent date.

Every locale is different and microclimates will affect growing conditions too. Know your last and first frost dates as determined by your state Extension or NOAA. Use those as a guideline in determining the actual dates in your own garden. Try keeping a gardening journal and track temperatures in your backyard. If your "official" last frost is May 6, but you notice year after year that a frost hits after that date, adjust your planting schedule accordingly.

I know there are many numbers here and it can become a little confusing. Once you know your specific dates, use them. I'm comfortable with my Memorial Day planting because I've never lost a plant to frost after that date. I am willing to fudge that a little and plant earlier if I see a weather forecast with sustained warm temperatures leading up to that day. On the other end I plan on the first frost hitting about October 1. In my garden I plan for a frost-free growing season of a little more than 120 days.

It's all about matching the plant's required growing season with the season available in your garden. With a little research you can be more successful in matching the two.

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Buy From Gardeners

Consider buying seeds and plants from people who understand gardening... other gardeners.

More gardening catalogs are arriving every day. Some are good, some are great, and some are to be avoided. I've ordered from catalogs and online sites for years; I also buy from great local nurseries, but they are small and I often look for new plants that can't be found locally. Many of my catalog purchases were selected based only on photos and plant descriptions because the companies were unknown or unfamiliar and I placed orders as a way to gauge the quality of the products. I've learned a few things about gardening catalogs as a result.

You can often feel the gardening passion of the growers through the words in a catalog, or not. It took me awhile to figure that out. Getting quality products is more than pretty pictures and low prices. My experience is that the best products usually cost a little more because the growers are gardeners who take extra time and make extra effort to grow quality plants.

Some of my worst experiences were purchases from "Burgess Seed & Plant Co." that I made years ago, before I became a Master Gardener. I received their new catalog a few days ago and read through it as a comparison to better catalogs I now have. The Burgess catalog is basically a laundry list of inexpensive seeds and plants with colorful pictures. There is very little information about proper planting methods and nothing about where or how they grow their products. Most of the plants I received from them arrived as a bundle, inside waterlogged plastic bags, and were in terrible condition; very few survived.

Contrast that experience with some of my best from "High Country Gardens." HGH identifies every plant in the catalog with sun and water requirements, soil preferences, and often a history of the cultivar. They explain who they are, where they are, and how they grow their products. Plants I received from them were planted individually in over-size pots, in plastic sleeves, inside protective plastic clamshells, divided by cardboard, in a sturdy box. Every plant arrived intact and in great shape. Survival rate was very high. The gardeners at High Country Gardens ship great plants.

I'm looking forward to my new purchases from "Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds", a new discovery that I wrote about a few weeks ago. They spend two very large pages of the catalog explaining who they are, where they are, and how they grow. They're gardeners.

A new catalog I ordered shows great promise. "Territorial Seed Company" also uses two pages of their catalog explaining who they are. They take pride in telling how they plant and pot transplants for quality. The best features of their catalog are lengthy growing instructions for every type of seed and plant. Their descriptions of proper culture, insect and pest concerns, and harvest methods are better than many gardening books I own. They're gardeners too.

Buying plants from local nurseries is usually better than buying from a big box store. At the big store you only have a small plant tag to identify the requirements for planting. The employees are rarely knowledgeable enough for moderate questions and may not even be gardeners. At a local nursery you can usually talk to the person who actually planted the seeds and fertilized the plants. They're gardeners who know the plants and can help you make appropriate choices for your garden.

It comes down to quality. Gardeners have a passion to grow, and grow well. Major retailers, through stores or catalogs, are out to make a buck through quantity sales and the gardening passion is often lost. When given a choice between a plant grown by a gardener and a similar one from an unknown source, I prefer to choose the one grown by someone with similar gardening thoughts as me. The extra care and attention from a gardener usually produces a better plant.

I do buy from major retailers. For generic annuals, I can save money at a big garden center; the quality of those plants aren't as important to me because they are short-lived. It's also better to see and feel a new plant purchase as compared to an unknown selection from a catalog. For some common, proven cultivars of various vegetables, I've found that the garden centers provide good plants, especially when they buy from a local or regional grower (a question you should ask). I usually know about the plants I'm buying and can determine for myself if the quality is good enough, without having to ask a clueless clerk.

But when it comes to uncommon plants, I turn to nurseries and catalogs. And I select catalogs that use real gardeners. High Country Gardens offers plants that do well in my semi-arid, mountain garden, but that I can't find locally. The other good catalogs mentioned above offer seeds that are unique.

When you're looking for new seeds and plants, look for the gardener behind them. If the catalog blatantly leaves out any description of who they are, you're at risk of receiving inferior plants. If the store sells a plant with no one knowledgeable to discuss it, you may be selecting the wrong plant for your garden. Proper plant selection requires a little research and experienced gardeners can help.

As I read through catalogs selecting the plants for this year's garden, I'm aware of the person, the gardener, who wants me to succeed. They've put their passion into the seeds and plants. That little extra attention and positive energy deserves a place in my garden.
Consider buying seeds and plants from people who understand gardening... other gardeners.

More gardening catalogs are arriving every day. Some are good, some are great, and some are to be avoided. I've ordered from catalogs and online sites for years; I also buy from great local nurseries, but they are small and I often look for new plants that can't be found locally. Many of my catalog purchases were selected based only on photos and plant descriptions because the companies were unknown or unfamiliar and I placed orders as a way to gauge the quality of the products. I've learned a few things about gardening catalogs as a result.

You can often feel the gardening passion of the growers through the words in a catalog, or not. It took me awhile to figure that out. Getting quality products is more than pretty pictures and low prices. My experience is that the best products usually cost a little more because the growers are gardeners who take extra time and make extra effort to grow quality plants.

Some of my worst experiences were purchases from "Burgess Seed & Plant Co." that I made years ago, before I became a Master Gardener. I received their new catalog a few days ago and read through it as a comparison to better catalogs I now have. The Burgess catalog is basically a laundry list of inexpensive seeds and plants with colorful pictures. There is very little information about proper planting methods and nothing about where or how they grow their products. Most of the plants I received from them arrived as a bundle, inside waterlogged plastic bags, and were in terrible condition; very few survived.

Contrast that experience with some of my best from "
High Country Gardens." HGH identifies every plant in the catalog with sun and water requirements, soil preferences, and often a history of the cultivar. They explain who they are, where they are, and how they grow their products. Plants I received from them were planted individually in over-size pots, in plastic sleeves, inside protective plastic clamshells, divided by cardboard, in a sturdy box. Every plant arrived intact and in great shape. Survival rate was very high. The gardeners at High Country Gardens ship great plants.

I'm looking forward to my new purchases from "Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds", a new discovery that I wrote about a few weeks ago. They spend two very large pages of the catalog explaining who they are, where they are, and how they grow. They're gardeners.

A new catalog I ordered shows great promise. "Territorial Seed Company" also uses two pages of their catalog explaining who they are. They take pride in telling how they plant and pot transplants for quality. The best features of their catalog are lengthy growing instructions for every type of seed and plant. Their descriptions of proper culture, insect and pest concerns, and harvest methods are better than many gardening books I own. They're gardeners too.

Buying plants from local nurseries is usually better than buying from a big box store. At the big store you only have a small plant tag to identify the requirements for planting. The employees are rarely knowledgeable enough for moderate questions and may not even be gardeners. At a local nursery you can usually talk to the person who actually planted the seeds and fertilized the plants. They're gardeners who know the plants and can help you make appropriate choices for your garden.

It comes down to quality. Gardeners have a passion to grow, and grow well. Major retailers, through stores or catalogs, are out to make a buck through quantity sales and the gardening passion is often lost. When given a choice between a plant grown by a gardener and a similar one from an unknown source, I prefer to choose the one grown by someone with similar gardening thoughts as me. The extra care and attention from a gardener usually produces a better plant.

I do buy from major retailers. For generic annuals, I can save money at a big garden center; the quality of those plants aren't as important to me because they are short-lived. It's also better to see and feel a new plant purchase as compared to an unknown selection from a catalog. For some common, proven cultivars of various vegetables, I've found that the garden centers provide good plants, especially when they buy from a local or regional grower (a question you should ask). I usually know about the plants I'm buying and can determine for myself if the quality is good enough, without having to ask a clueless clerk.

But when it comes to uncommon plants, I turn to nurseries and catalogs. And I select catalogs that use real gardeners. High Country Gardens offers plants that do well in my semi-arid, mountain garden, but that I can't find locally. The other good catalogs mentioned above offer seeds that are unique.

When you're looking for new seeds and plants, look for the gardener behind them. If the catalog blatantly leaves out any description of who they are, you're at risk of receiving inferior plants. If the store sells a plant with no one knowledgeable to discuss it, you may be selecting the wrong plant for your garden. Proper plant selection requires a little research and experienced gardeners can help.

As I read through catalogs selecting the plants for this year's garden, I'm aware of the person, the gardener, who wants me to succeed. They've put their passion into the seeds and plants. That little extra attention and positive energy deserves a place in my garden.

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Look for Microclimates in the Garden

You have a world of climate and weather variety all around you. Temperatures are warmer the farther south you go (reverse that in the Southern Hemisphere). Mountains are colder than an ocean beach. Tree tops are windier than valleys. The coasts are rainier than deserts. This is easy to recognize on a broad scale, but have you noticed differences within your own garden and yard?

Snow melts around my raised pots first.
First, a couple of definitions. Weather is what's happening outside today. It's cold or hot, rainy or sunny, windy or calm. Climate is the weather pattern over a longer period of time. Climate is affected by where you are on the earth (your latitude), your elevation, local topography, and proximity to large bodies of water. My climate is semi-arid and today my weather is sunny and dry.

Within my yard I have a number of topographic and man-made features that alter weather patterns just as larger features on the planet do. My house blocks the prevailing winds. Trees and fences project shade on a sunny day. Stone patios and concretes sidewalks warm the ground. These differences, and more, create microclimates all over my yard.

This bed gets warmth from the house, is protected from the prevailing wind, and receives morning and early afternoon sun.

Microclimates are areas with a different climate than larger, surrounding areas. Microclimates can be quite big, like the area to the east of the Great Lakes that receives completely different winter weather than nearby regions, because of the large bodies of water. Microclimates can also be quite small, like the shaded spot behind a low fence; only a few feet can make a difference.

Whether you know it or not, much of your gardening success happens because you are aware of the microclimates in your garden. You know the spots where some plants do better than others. You know not to plant Hostas on a sunbaked hill; they need the shade on the north side of your house. You know to plant small, tender transplants where they're protected from strong winds. You know that tomatoes do better in a raised bed than in the low gully behind the barn.

Now is a great time to identify some of the different microclimates in your garden and yard. Recently, weather has been cold and snowy in the U.S. and right now 49 of the 50 states have snow on the ground. Snow provides wonderful indicators for microclimates. The spots that melt first are warmer; the spots that melt last are colder. Spots with little snow may show windy areas as it all blew away; spots with more snow due to drifts are typically not as windy because that's where the snow came to rest.

This south-facing wall melted snow during 48 hours of below-freezing temps.

Look for differences in the landscape. If you have snow, look for the clues. If you don't, you can still determine microclimates. Do you have leaves piled up behind a fence? That area is more protected from the wind. Do you have ice in some spots and not others? That may be due to shade or because that spot is lower, and cooler, than nearby areas. Is the grass already green in some areas and not others? That may be due to more water for the green areas and drier conditions in others. Is the grass starting to grow near sidewalks and patios? That may be due to warmer temperatures provided by the concrete.

Remembering a little about physics helps too. Dark colors absorb more heat than light colors. Light colors reflect more sun than dark. Hot air rises, cold air sinks. Light-colored, south-facing walls will reflect sunlight. Dark soil will warm faster. The top of a hill is warmer than the base in the valley, even if the hill is just a few feet high. Low areas will have frost before higher ones.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zones provide a general guideline of climates (sustained low temperatures) for plants. Within your garden you probably have localized Hardiness Zones that are colder than and also warmer than the published Zone for your area. By identifying and recognizing the small differences in your garden you can put plants into the best location. Hardy plants may be able to handle a colder spot while tender plants may need the boost from a warmer location.

You can also create aspects of your garden to develop microclimates. Raised beds thaw out faster in the spring, allowing you to plant earlier than other beds. A fence for tall flowers or berries will protect them from the wind. Planting corn or sunflowers can provide a shady spot behind them for tender herbs. Planting trees for wind and sun protection changes the microclimates all around. A concrete or brick walkway or patio will warm the soil nearby.

This stone patio provides a little extra warmth to the new lavender plants around it.
Once you recognize the existence of microclimates in your garden, success may no longer be a mystery. If you planted 10 bushes and the two on one end were smaller or died, look for a microclimate as the culprit; maybe they were in shade, or drier, or exposed to wind. When the tomatoes do better in one bed than another, maybe it's due to more sun, or less water, or warmer soil.

Be on the lookout constantly for microclimates and use them to your advantage. Just as the snow makes it easy to identify some, bright sun and shadows give clues too. Make note of where they are and plant accordingly. You may be amazed at the results.
You have a world of climate and weather variety all around you. Temperatures are warmer the farther south you go (reverse that in the Southern Hemisphere). Mountains are colder than an ocean beach. Tree tops are windier than valleys. The coasts are rainier than deserts. This is easy to recognize on a broad scale, but have you noticed differences within your own garden and yard?

Snow melts around my raised pots first.
First, a couple of definitions. Weather is what's happening outside today. It's cold or hot, rainy or sunny, windy or calm. Climate is the weather pattern over a longer period of time. Climate is affected by where you are on the earth (your latitude), your elevation, local topography, and proximity to large bodies of water. My climate is semi-arid and today my weather is sunny and dry.

Within my yard I have a number of topographic and man-made features that alter weather patterns just as larger features on the planet do. My house blocks the prevailing winds. Trees and fences project shade on a sunny day. Stone patios and concretes sidewalks warm the ground. These differences, and more, create microclimates all over my yard.

This bed gets warmth from the house, is protected from the prevailing wind, and receives morning and early afternoon sun.

Microclimates are areas with a different climate than larger, surrounding areas. Microclimates can be quite big, like the area to the east of the Great Lakes that receives completely different winter weather than nearby regions, because of the large bodies of water. Microclimates can also be quite small, like the shaded spot behind a low fence; only a few feet can make a difference.

Whether you know it or not, much of your gardening success happens because you are aware of the microclimates in your garden. You know the spots where some plants do better than others. You know not to plant Hostas on a sunbaked hill; they need the shade on the north side of your house. You know to plant small, tender transplants where they're protected from strong winds. You know that tomatoes do better in a raised bed than in the low gully behind the barn.

Now is a great time to identify some of the different microclimates in your garden and yard. Recently, weather has been cold and snowy in the U.S. and right now 49 of the 50 states have snow on the ground. Snow provides wonderful indicators for microclimates. The spots that melt first are warmer; the spots that melt last are colder. Spots with little snow may show windy areas as it all blew away; spots with more snow due to drifts are typically not as windy because that's where the snow came to rest.

This south-facing wall melted snow during 48 hours of below-freezing temps.

Look for differences in the landscape. If you have snow, look for the clues. If you don't, you can still determine microclimates. Do you have leaves piled up behind a fence? That area is more protected from the wind. Do you have ice in some spots and not others? That may be due to shade or because that spot is lower, and cooler, than nearby areas. Is the grass already green in some areas and not others? That may be due to more water for the green areas and drier conditions in others. Is the grass starting to grow near sidewalks and patios? That may be due to warmer temperatures provided by the concrete.

Remembering a little about physics helps too. Dark colors absorb more heat than light colors. Light colors reflect more sun than dark. Hot air rises, cold air sinks. Light-colored, south-facing walls will reflect sunlight. Dark soil will warm faster. The top of a hill is warmer than the base in the valley, even if the hill is just a few feet high. Low areas will have frost before higher ones.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zones provide a general guideline of climates (sustained low temperatures) for plants. Within your garden you probably have localized Hardiness Zones that are colder than and also warmer than the published Zone for your area. By identifying and recognizing the small differences in your garden you can put plants into the best location. Hardy plants may be able to handle a colder spot while tender plants may need the boost from a warmer location.

You can also create aspects of your garden to develop microclimates. Raised beds thaw out faster in the spring, allowing you to plant earlier than other beds. A fence for tall flowers or berries will protect them from the wind. Planting corn or sunflowers can provide a shady spot behind them for tender herbs. Planting trees for wind and sun protection changes the microclimates all around. A concrete or brick walkway or patio will warm the soil nearby.

This stone patio provides a little extra warmth to the new lavender plants around it.
Once you recognize the existence of microclimates in your garden, success may no longer be a mystery. If you planted 10 bushes and the two on one end were smaller or died, look for a microclimate as the culprit; maybe they were in shade, or drier, or exposed to wind. When the tomatoes do better in one bed than another, maybe it's due to more sun, or less water, or warmer soil.

Be on the lookout constantly for microclimates and use them to your advantage. Just as the snow makes it easy to identify some, bright sun and shadows give clues too. Make note of where they are and plant accordingly. You may be amazed at the results.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Lucky Number Seven

There's cold and then there's COLD. Today falls into both categories for my gardens. An Arctic cold air blast rushed into our region driving temperatures down. High temperatures for today throughout Colorado are expected to only reach single digits. Based on the forecast, our elevation, and the snow on the ground, I expect today's high to reach about seven degrees F at my house. Tonight the low temperature will be about negative 15 degrees F; that's 15 degrees BELOW zero F.

We can have severe weather.

I've written often in recent weeks about the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone system. Today represents why it was created. The expected overnight low temperature puts us smackdab in the middle of the average annual minimum temperature depicted for Zone 5. Average minimum temperatures for Zone 5 can be expected to range between -10 and -20 degrees F.  One of the nice things about the USDA system (and the Hardiness Zone Map for Europe) is that you don't need to keep a record of your own personal temperatures; you can determine your Zone by looking at their map.

Plants handle cold temperatures differently. Some can shrug off severe cold, some can't take anything near freezing. Many seed companies, nurseries, and plant growers identify their plants by the respective Zone. It's becoming standard and works very well. Any plant identified as appropriate for Zone 5 can handle the temperatures I'm expecting today.

The system doesn't have to be restrictive or limiting. Gardeners who want to grow plants not suited for their region just need to do make more effort. I can grow Zone 6 plants, suitable for minimum temperatures of 0 to -10 degrees F. On nights with colder temperatures the plants need to be protected from the severe cold. This can be done with smaller perennials, not so easily with large bushes or trees.

I planted a number of Lavender plants last year, all identified as appropriate for Zones 5-10. I avoided purchasing a French Lavender identified for Zones 6-10. If I did have that plant I would need be concerned about the forecast for tonight, but it wouldn't have to be deadly to the plant if I took action. I would only need to find a buffer of five degrees to bring the plant into a safe zone.

Covering it with a plastic tarp, blanket, or large bucket should be enough to trap warmer air from the day and provide slightly warmer air near the plant. A combination of the three provides extra protection. If I wanted to ensure warmer temperatures I could string Christmas lights (the kind that get hot, not LED) in a frame over the plant and cover it. Colorado State University conducted tests of various coverings for plant frost protection and found the light and plastic method gave 6 to 18 degrees F of protection. Covering with a space blanket extended the protection by up to 30 degrees F. With extreme cold you might not get similar results, but we're only seeking a few extra degrees.

Ideally I would have recognized the possibility of severe cold and planted this Lavender close to my house, a structure that actually generates heat during the winter. Between the residual heat of the house and a plastic cover, it might be enough to protect it from the cold. The south side of a stone fence or any similarly protected area could work.

Even with a covering, it's likely that part of the plant would suffer; exterior branches and buds might die, but the main plant would survive. If the plant was particularly prized by me, it might be worth the effort to save it.

I don't always want to work that hard, however, so it's easier to plant plants that are appropriate for my Zone. Toiling outside at 7 degrees F can be painful and I try to avoid it if I can. It makes more sense to put in perennials that can easily handle the cold so I can sit in my chair enjoying the fire warming the room while it's cold and snowy outside. Especially with the snow acting as an insulating blanket, I'm not worried about any of my plants tonight.

To have even less worry, I try to plant with a colder zone in mind. If I can find Zone 4 plants, suitable for -20 to -30 degrees F, I don't need to lose any sleep on the rare nights when the temperature drops to -25. The cherry tree I planted is suitable for Zone 3. Assuming I can avoid deer damage, I'll never need to worry about cold temperatures affecting it.

I don't enjoy this severe cold any more than the plants do. Both of us know that warmer weather is on the way. Surviving the extremes is all either of us needs to be concerned with, but with planning and a little research before planting, the concern is eliminated. Right now I'm enjoying my fire, looking out at the snow, knowing it will be VERY cold tonight, and not worried about my plants at all.
There's cold and then there's COLD. Today falls into both categories for my gardens. An Arctic cold air blast rushed into our region driving temperatures down. High temperatures for today throughout Colorado are expected to only reach single digits. Based on the forecast, our elevation, and the snow on the ground, I expect today's high to reach about seven degrees F at my house. Tonight the low temperature will be about negative 15 degrees F; that's 15 degrees BELOW zero F.

We can have severe weather.

I've written often in recent weeks about the
USDA Plant Hardiness Zone system. Today represents why it was created. The expected overnight low temperature puts us smackdab in the middle of the average annual minimum temperature depicted for Zone 5. Average minimum temperatures for Zone 5 can be expected to range between -10 and -20 degrees F.  One of the nice things about the USDA system (and the Hardiness Zone Map for Europe) is that you don't need to keep a record of your own personal temperatures; you can determine your Zone by looking at their map.

Plants handle cold temperatures differently. Some can shrug off severe cold, some can't take anything near freezing. Many seed companies, nurseries, and plant growers identify their plants by the respective Zone. It's becoming standard and works very well. Any plant identified as appropriate for Zone 5 can handle the temperatures I'm expecting today.

The system doesn't have to be restrictive or limiting. Gardeners who want to grow plants not suited for their region just need to do make more effort. I can grow Zone 6 plants, suitable for minimum temperatures of 0 to -10 degrees F. On nights with colder temperatures the plants need to be protected from the severe cold. This can be done with smaller perennials, not so easily with large bushes or trees.

I planted a number of Lavender plants last year, all identified as appropriate for Zones 5-10. I avoided purchasing a French Lavender identified for Zones 6-10. If I did have that plant I would need be concerned about the forecast for tonight, but it wouldn't have to be deadly to the plant if I took action. I would only need to find a buffer of five degrees to bring the plant into a safe zone.

Covering it with a plastic tarp, blanket, or large bucket should be enough to trap warmer air from the day and provide slightly warmer air near the plant. A combination of the three provides extra protection. If I wanted to ensure warmer temperatures I could string Christmas lights (the kind that get hot, not LED) in a frame over the plant and cover it. Colorado State University conducted tests of various coverings for plant frost protection and found the light and plastic method gave 6 to 18 degrees F of protection. Covering with a space blanket extended the protection by up to 30 degrees F. With extreme cold you might not get similar results, but we're only seeking a few extra degrees.

Ideally I would have recognized the possibility of severe cold and planted this Lavender close to my house, a structure that actually generates heat during the winter. Between the residual heat of the house and a plastic cover, it might be enough to protect it from the cold. The south side of a stone fence or any similarly protected area could work.

Even with a covering, it's likely that part of the plant would suffer; exterior branches and buds might die, but the main plant would survive. If the plant was particularly prized by me, it might be worth the effort to save it.

I don't always want to work that hard, however, so it's easier to plant plants that are appropriate for my Zone. Toiling outside at 7 degrees F can be painful and I try to avoid it if I can. It makes more sense to put in perennials that can easily handle the cold so I can sit in my chair enjoying the fire warming the room while it's cold and snowy outside. Especially with the snow acting as an insulating blanket, I'm not worried about any of my plants tonight.

To have even less worry, I try to plant with a colder zone in mind. If I can find Zone 4 plants, suitable for -20 to -30 degrees F, I don't need to lose any sleep on the rare nights when the temperature drops to -25. The cherry tree I planted is suitable for Zone 3. Assuming I can avoid deer damage, I'll never need to worry about cold temperatures affecting it.

I don't enjoy this severe cold any more than the plants do. Both of us know that warmer weather is on the way. Surviving the extremes is all either of us needs to be concerned with, but with planning and a little research before planting, the concern is eliminated. Right now I'm enjoying my fire, looking out at the snow, knowing it will be VERY cold tonight, and not worried about my plants at all.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Plant A Garden In Your Mind

There isn't much garden planting happening for many of us in the Northern Hemisphere. Outside my window the snow is falling, the temperature is dropping, and gray clouds have lowered to the treetops. Inside the walls my thoughts are warm and my hopes are rising. I use this time of year to think of sunny weather, plan my garden expectations, and choose the new plants and seeds that will soon populate it. While the comforting fire burns in the wood stove in the corner, I'll even close my eyes and picture how the mature plants will look next to each other, against the fences, and at harvest.

Recently I've written much on new gardening catalogs. Two weeks ago I received a number of seed catalogs and this last week saw the arrival of live plant catalogs, including High Country Gardens, one of my favorites. The photos from every company's offering burst with bright colors. Some have smiling children. All of them encourage you to buy and it's hard not to pull out the credit card and go online or phone in an order after being inspired by thoughts of your garden in bloom.

My suggestion today is to wait. Take some time, a day or a week or a month, and think about your gardening plans. Put your ideas on paper or in a computer spreadsheet. Envision your garden at its peak. With that thought in mind, determine the steps to reach it.

Ask yourself some important questions. Will you expand your garden this year or use the same beds? Will you try something new or stay with the same plants? Will you have help with gardening or will you work by yourself? Are you available to garden or will other activities pull you away? Will you plant seeds, live plants, or both? Do you have a budget in mind for new purchases? Will you work from a plan?

Many of us succumb to impulse buying when it comes to our gardens. We see a plant at the nursery that we're sure will look good next to the Daisies so we buy it. A friend recommends a shrub on sale at the garden center so we rush down and buy two. We really don't need 10 Salvia plants, but they're on clearance so we find space for them. I do this too often. My gardens look great, but they look better when I plant with a plan.

Without forethought, colors are mismatched, small plants are hidden by larger ones, and beds become a mishmash of designs. Without a little research, the wrong plant is put in the wrong location and becomes a waste of time and effort. Without anticipation of results you become the gardener that people avoid because you have too much zucchini.


Try to avoid buying seeds and plants willy-nilly. Almost every gardener has unopened seed packets tucked away in a box or drawer. What began as a glorious vision of new plants ended with old, shriveled seeds because there wasn't enough time or space to plant them. We keep them with hopes that we'll plant them some day, but they're soon replaced by new packets and new visions.

Use this down time when the weather is cold and dreary to plan the best garden you can. If you've never measured the size of your beds, do it now. If you don't have a master diagram showing where your garden is in relation to sun, water, and your house, create it now. If you don't have a listing of the plants you've grown with success, write it now; do it for the plants that failed too. If you don't have a vision of what you want your garden to be, think about it now.

These steps are important in establishing a blank template of your garden. On this template you can add, remove, and move plants. When you've identified specific areas for specific plants, you can pick up the catalogs and order with purpose. When you garden with a plan, you'll avoid costly mistakes of seeds that will never see the soil and plants that die or need to be replaced.

It's easy to do. It begins with the comforting thought of what you want your garden to be. Create a plan for your activities. It doesn't need to be a final product today. Gardens evolve and your plan should evolve as you learn more and try different things. The concept is to think about it ahead of time and the perfect time to act is on a cold winter day.
There isn't much garden planting happening for many of us in the Northern Hemisphere. Outside my window the snow is falling, the temperature is dropping, and gray clouds have lowered to the treetops. Inside the walls my thoughts are warm and my hopes are rising. I use this time of year to think of sunny weather, plan my garden expectations, and choose the new plants and seeds that will soon populate it. While the comforting fire burns in the wood stove in the corner, I'll even close my eyes and picture how the mature plants will look next to each other, against the fences, and at harvest.

Recently I've written much on new gardening catalogs. Two weeks ago I received a number of seed catalogs and this last week saw the arrival of live plant catalogs, including High Country Gardens, one of my favorites. The photos from every company's offering burst with bright colors. Some have smiling children. All of them encourage you to buy and it's hard not to pull out the credit card and go online or phone in an order after being inspired by thoughts of your garden in bloom.

My suggestion today is to wait. Take some time, a day or a week or a month, and think about your gardening plans. Put your ideas on paper or in a computer spreadsheet. Envision your garden at its peak. With that thought in mind, determine the steps to reach it.

Ask yourself some important questions. Will you expand your garden this year or use the same beds? Will you try something new or stay with the same plants? Will you have help with gardening or will you work by yourself? Are you available to garden or will other activities pull you away? Will you plant seeds, live plants, or both? Do you have a budget in mind for new purchases? Will you work from a plan?

Many of us succumb to impulse buying when it comes to our gardens. We see a plant at the nursery that we're sure will look good next to the Daisies so we buy it. A friend recommends a shrub on sale at the garden center so we rush down and buy two. We really don't need 10 Salvia plants, but they're on clearance so we find space for them. I do this too often. My gardens look great, but they look better when I plant with a plan.

Without forethought, colors are mismatched, small plants are hidden by larger ones, and beds become a mishmash of designs. Without a little research, the wrong plant is put in the wrong location and becomes a waste of time and effort. Without anticipation of results you become the gardener that people avoid because you have too much zucchini.


Try to avoid buying seeds and plants willy-nilly. Almost every gardener has unopened seed packets tucked away in a box or drawer. What began as a glorious vision of new plants ended with old, shriveled seeds because there wasn't enough time or space to plant them. We keep them with hopes that we'll plant them some day, but they're soon replaced by new packets and new visions.

Use this down time when the weather is cold and dreary to plan the best garden you can. If you've never measured the size of your beds, do it now. If you don't have a master diagram showing where your garden is in relation to sun, water, and your house, create it now. If you don't have a listing of the plants you've grown with success, write it now; do it for the plants that failed too. If you don't have a vision of what you want your garden to be, think about it now.

These steps are important in establishing a blank template of your garden. On this template you can add, remove, and move plants. When you've identified specific areas for specific plants, you can pick up the catalogs and order with purpose. When you garden with a plan, you'll avoid costly mistakes of seeds that will never see the soil and plants that die or need to be replaced.

It's easy to do. It begins with the comforting thought of what you want your garden to be. Create a plan for your activities. It doesn't need to be a final product today. Gardens evolve and your plan should evolve as you learn more and try different things. The concept is to think about it ahead of time and the perfect time to act is on a cold winter day.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Who Are the Gardening Experts?

Gardening advice is all around us. It's available on the internet, at Starbucks, in your grandmother's kitchen, and in the mailbox. I certainly try to do my part to enlighten fellow gardeners about the best way to garden, often learned from mistakes I've made. As a trained Master Gardener I cringe when I encounter information that is blatantly wrong, though the purveyor of the "facts" affirms their validity.

This week it was "professional", or rather, "commercial" seed and nursery companies that drew my ire. As I've mentioned in previous blogs, seed and plant catalogs are rolling in to my country home. I love thumbing through the pages and envisioning new plants that I'll try in one garden section or another. I hardly noticed when I read a blurb in one that their "experts" had determined my Hardiness Zone to make my plant selection easier, but imagine my surprise and shock when I saw that they had printed my Hardiness Zone as "7"!

Last month I devoted a blog to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones. My Colorado garden grows at 7,500 feet elevation. On a good day my Hardiness Zone is "5". A quick glance at the USDA's Plant Hardiness Zone Map shows that there isn't a single part of Colorado that is within a few hundred miles of Zone 7. Yet somehow the gardening experts trying to sell me their products are "advising" me to purchase plants suitable for the deserts of Arizona. Of course, I'm sure the number was generated by a computer, but loading my zip code into any of the online Hardiness Zone calculators delivers an appropriate Zone 5. Whoever programmed their computer couldn't even add an accurate Zip Code to Hardiness Zone calculator.

Two of the offenders are Gurney's Seed & Nursery Co. and Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co., both with addresses in Indiana. I suspect they're in cahoots by telling me my Hardiness Zone is 7 because, upon closer examination, their catalogs are surprisingly similar. Colors are the same, product codes are the same, pictures are the same, and the misguided computer is probably the same.

I don't know about you, but I'm hesitant to trust information from someone, or a company, that feeds me inaccurate information while trying to convey a sense of accuracy. This is prevalent in the gardening world. Someone discovers something that works great and tries to make a buck by telling you it will work for you too. But my garden is different than your garden, which is different than my cousin's California garden, which is different than my brother's Arizona garden.

The best place for me to find accurate local information is in my own home town. Master Gardeners in my area are trained for gardening information that applies to my area; this is the same across the country. Local nurseries rely on producing plants that will prosper in my area; if they sell the wrong plants they can be out of business. Gardeners down the block and around the corner know what works and what doesn't... for our area.

Be careful about following all of the gardening advice you hear, even mine. I try to qualify information I present as it applies to my garden or gardens in general, but not everyone does that. Many of the big box stores in my area begin selling tomato and pepper plants in early March. Our temperatures can warm up quickly and many people are anxious for spring planting. The official last frost date for Colorado Springs is May 15. I've had dozens of newcomers to the area who attended one of my basic gardening classes and told me about planting a garden that was devastated by an April snowstorm.

Big chain stores will sell truckloads of plants like blueberries and azaleas, but Colorado soil is alkaline and blueberries and azaleas require acidic soil. You won't always see that on the label and a typical store clerk won't know the difference. Like the plant catalogs above, these same stores sell Zone 7 and Zone 8 perennials to unsuspecting gardeners with the belief that they'll survive our Zone 5 winters. They won't.

Many gardening books and national gardening television shows are produced on the East Coast. They present great information, but that information is often accurate for just the East Coast. One recommendation I've seen in print many times is to add fireplace ashes to your soil. That works great for Eastern soil, but is one of the worst things you can do to alkaline soil like mine. I know that because I know more about what is best for my garden.

Find out about your area, your garden specifically. Continue to find internet sources and TV stars and authors, but don't trust everything. If your health was threatened, you'd get a second opinion from a different doctor. Well, the health of your garden is threatened every time you try something new so get a second opinion from a different gardener.

I'll continue to offer gardening advice based on my training and research. I'll do my best to identify what will work for a Colorado garden and what works for gardens in general. Most of what I write is general in nature and will work for most gardens. Notice that I'll often quantify with "some", "many", or "most" gardens; rarely will I say "all" or "every". It's up to you to determine what's best for your garden. When it comes to what you buy and plant, you're the best judge, not a malicious computer, TV pitchman, or store clerk.
Gardening advice is all around us. It's available on the internet, at Starbucks, in your grandmother's kitchen, and in the mailbox. I certainly try to do my part to enlighten fellow gardeners about the best way to garden, often learned from mistakes I've made. As a trained Master Gardener I cringe when I encounter information that is blatantly wrong, though the purveyor of the "facts" affirms their validity.

This week it was "professional", or rather, "commercial" seed and nursery companies that drew my ire. As I've mentioned in previous blogs, seed and plant catalogs are rolling in to my country home. I love thumbing through the pages and envisioning new plants that I'll try in one garden section or another. I hardly noticed when I read a blurb in one that their "experts" had determined my Hardiness Zone to make my plant selection easier, but imagine my surprise and shock when I saw that they had printed my Hardiness Zone as "7"!

Last month I devoted a blog to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones. My Colorado garden grows at 7,500 feet elevation. On a good day my Hardiness Zone is "5". A quick glance at the USDA's Plant Hardiness Zone Map shows that there isn't a single part of Colorado that is within a few hundred miles of Zone 7. Yet somehow the gardening experts trying to sell me their products are "advising" me to purchase plants suitable for the deserts of Arizona. Of course, I'm sure the number was generated by a computer, but loading my zip code into any of the online Hardiness Zone calculators delivers an appropriate Zone 5. Whoever programmed their computer couldn't even add an accurate Zip Code to Hardiness Zone calculator.

Two of the offenders are Gurney's Seed & Nursery Co. and Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co., both with addresses in Indiana. I suspect they're in cahoots by telling me my Hardiness Zone is 7 because, upon closer examination, their catalogs are surprisingly similar. Colors are the same, product codes are the same, pictures are the same, and the misguided computer is probably the same.

I don't know about you, but I'm hesitant to trust information from someone, or a company, that feeds me inaccurate information while trying to convey a sense of accuracy. This is prevalent in the gardening world. Someone discovers something that works great and tries to make a buck by telling you it will work for you too. But my garden is different than your garden, which is different than my cousin's California garden, which is different than my brother's Arizona garden.

The best place for me to find accurate local information is in my own home town. Master Gardeners in my area are trained for gardening information that applies to my area; this is the same across the country. Local nurseries rely on producing plants that will prosper in my area; if they sell the wrong plants they can be out of business. Gardeners down the block and around the corner know what works and what doesn't... for our area.

Be careful about following all of the gardening advice you hear, even mine. I try to qualify information I present as it applies to my garden or gardens in general, but not everyone does that. Many of the big box stores in my area begin selling tomato and pepper plants in early March. Our temperatures can warm up quickly and many people are anxious for spring planting. The official last frost date for Colorado Springs is May 15. I've had dozens of newcomers to the area who attended one of my basic gardening classes and told me about planting a garden that was devastated by an April snowstorm.

Big chain stores will sell truckloads of plants like blueberries and azaleas, but Colorado soil is alkaline and blueberries and azaleas require acidic soil. You won't always see that on the label and a typical store clerk won't know the difference. Like the plant catalogs above, these same stores sell Zone 7 and Zone 8 perennials to unsuspecting gardeners with the belief that they'll survive our Zone 5 winters. They won't.

Many gardening books and national gardening television shows are produced on the East Coast. They present great information, but that information is often accurate for just the East Coast. One recommendation I've seen in print many times is to add fireplace ashes to your soil. That works great for Eastern soil, but is one of the worst things you can do to alkaline soil like mine. I know that because I know more about what is best for my garden.

Find out about your area, your garden specifically. Continue to find internet sources and TV stars and authors, but don't trust everything. If your health was threatened, you'd get a second opinion from a different doctor. Well, the health of your garden is threatened every time you try something new so get a second opinion from a different gardener.

I'll continue to offer gardening advice based on my training and research. I'll do my best to identify what will work for a Colorado garden and what works for gardens in general. Most of what I write is general in nature and will work for most gardens. Notice that I'll often quantify with "some", "many", or "most" gardens; rarely will I say "all" or "every". It's up to you to determine what's best for your garden. When it comes to what you buy and plant, you're the best judge, not a malicious computer, TV pitchman, or store clerk.

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Protecting Trees Against Winter Damage

It's winter and almost all of the United States has experienced cold weather. Even Florida and Arizona have endured unusual chills. Just as we feel better when we don a warm coat on a gray day, small and young trees can benefit from an extra layer. Thick bark on big trees provides ample winter protection, but thin-barked specimens can be damaged by cold weather patterns.

An obvious crack on an aspen.
Sustained cold temperatures aren't the problem; trees can handle that. It's the sun that causes harm. Just as a freeze-thaw cycle may affect soil and tender roots, cold temperatures and the warming sun of day can damage trees. After a cold night or cold, overcast day, the outer bark cools to that same cold temperature. When the sun finally comes out, it begins to warm the bark, but only on the side facing the sun. The warm bark begins to expand and because of the temperature differential from the backside, can split. This "frost crack" is evident on the south and southwest side of trees.

The sun and heat may also cause the bark to be stimulated and begin growing new cells on just the one side. A quick return of cold temperatures kills the new cells. This pattern causes the bark on the sun-facing side to become sunken or split. This "sun scald" results in an elongated dried, sunken, or cracked section of bark.

Both of these situations result in a wound that makes the tree susceptible to further damage and even death. The weakened area may not protect the tree from additional cold damage; like when you walk into a storm with your coat unzipped. More importantly, during warmer weather the wound is an invitation for insects, fungus, and tree diseases. If the tree isn't strong enough to persevere, it can die.

Wrapping my apple tree.
There are a few things you can do to help counteract this problem. The bark absorbs the heat of the sun, causing the damage. Simple methods of reflecting the sunlight to prevent the warming can be effective. You've probably seen the base of public trees painted white. The white color reflects most of the sun's rays and heat. A better procedure for the same principle, is wrapping the trunk of a young tree with white plastic tape to reflect the sunlight. A light plastic trunk guard works well too.

Only the lower portion of tender trees need to be protected. Branches help shade the trunk, stabilize bark temperature, and reduce sun damage. For this reason, newly-pruned, young or thin-skinned trees may be damaged if not protected. You'll rarely see this kind of bark damage more than a few feet off the ground.

Apple tree wrapped to the first branch.
Ideally you want to wrap a tree in the fall before the severe cold of winter, but it can be done any time, particularly before the bark is damaged. You also want to remove the wrap in spring. If the wrap remains on the tree, excess moisture between the wrap and bark can cause water damage; harmful insects can also live, thrive, and lay eggs in that protected space. After a couple winters young trees should have thick enough bark to prevent problems. Thin barked-trees may need to be wrapped for four or five years, but only during the winter; if you leave a wrap or plastic guard on the tree it can also lead to "girdling" issues where the growing tree is strangled.

Many trees will survive with this type of damage, but if you have a treasured tree like my Gala Apple tree in the photos it will benefit both you and the tree to take the extra precautions against the damaging effects of winter sun.
It's winter and almost all of the United States has experienced cold weather. Even Florida and Arizona have endured unusual chills. Just as we feel better when we don a warm coat on a gray day, small and young trees can benefit from an extra layer. Thick bark on big trees provides ample winter protection, but thin-barked specimens can be damaged by cold weather patterns.

An obvious crack on an aspen.
Sustained cold temperatures aren't the problem; trees can handle that. It's the sun that causes harm. Just as a freeze-thaw cycle may affect soil and tender roots, cold temperatures and the warming sun of day can damage trees. After a cold night or cold, overcast day, the outer bark cools to that same cold temperature. When the sun finally comes out, it begins to warm the bark, but only on the side facing the sun. The warm bark begins to expand and because of the temperature differential from the backside, can split. This "frost crack" is evident on the south and southwest side of trees.

The sun and heat may also cause the bark to be stimulated and begin growing new cells on just the one side. A quick return of cold temperatures kills the new cells. This pattern causes the bark on the sun-facing side to become sunken or split. This "sun scald" results in an elongated dried, sunken, or cracked section of bark.

Both of these situations result in a wound that makes the tree susceptible to further damage and even death. The weakened area may not protect the tree from additional cold damage; like when you walk into a storm with your coat unzipped. More importantly, during warmer weather the wound is an invitation for insects, fungus, and tree diseases. If the tree isn't strong enough to persevere, it can die.

Wrapping my apple tree.
There are a few things you can do to help counteract this problem. The bark absorbs the heat of the sun, causing the damage. Simple methods of reflecting the sunlight to prevent the warming can be effective. You've probably seen the base of public trees painted white. The white color reflects most of the sun's rays and heat. A better procedure for the same principle, is wrapping the trunk of a young tree with white plastic tape to reflect the sunlight. A light plastic trunk guard works well too.

Only the lower portion of tender trees need to be protected. Branches help shade the trunk, stabilize bark temperature, and reduce sun damage. For this reason, newly-pruned, young or thin-skinned trees may be damaged if not protected. You'll rarely see this kind of bark damage more than a few feet off the ground.

Apple tree wrapped to the first branch.
Ideally you want to wrap a tree in the fall before the severe cold of winter, but it can be done any time, particularly before the bark is damaged. You also want to remove the wrap in spring. If the wrap remains on the tree, excess moisture between the wrap and bark can cause water damage; harmful insects can also live, thrive, and lay eggs in that protected space. After a couple winters young trees should have thick enough bark to prevent problems. Thin barked-trees may need to be wrapped for four or five years, but only during the winter; if you leave a wrap or plastic guard on the tree it can also lead to "girdling" issues where the growing tree is strangled.

Many trees will survive with this type of damage, but if you have a treasured tree like my Gala Apple tree in the photos it will benefit both you and the tree to take the extra precautions against the damaging effects of winter sun.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Seeds for the New Year

There are some really cool seeds out there! My gardening world will never be the same because of that discovery. Due to my short growing season and busy schedule, I often take a gardening shortcut by buying and planting potted plants. I'll grow sunflowers, corn, green beans, cucumbers, and squash from seed because they grow quickly and don't always transplant well, but when it comes to tomatoes and peppers and melons I've had more success with plants from a nursery or garden center. That will change in 2011 as I focus on growing more plants, and more interesting plants, from seeds.

It's not so much a new year's resolution as it is new inspiration from my cousin Laurie. I didn't realize Laurie and her husband Don were avid gardeners until I visited them at Christmas. As is often the case with me, gardening was an early and common topic of conversation. Laurie turned me on to a seed catalog unlike any I'd ever seen. I have gardening friends who refer to new catalogs as "gardening porn". This seed book is the best porn I've ever seen.

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds specializes in heirloom varieties with a large selection of seeds from the 19th century. They produce an over-sized, glossy-papered abundance of ravishing photos. The engrossing volume draws you in to a world of produce that will have you salivating by the third page. Laurie mentioned the 49 varieties of eggplant when she gave me my own copy of the catalog. I was enthralled by the 111 varieties of squash and pumpkins. I was captivated by the 227 varieties of tomatoes in green, orange, pink, purple, red, striped, white, and yellow options. I wanted to start ordering and growing immediately.

I journeyed through the tome, slowly turning the pages, finding new surprises with each section. Upon reaching the end, I began again with a pen in hand as I highlighted fascinating opportunities. After the third reading my imagination exploded with visions of how my garden would come alive with plants that have never been seen, much less grown, in my region.

Laurie gushed about the seeds she ordered last year and produced a box of colorful packets she hadn't been able to plant. The effusive description of her garden led to the proud display of individual tomatoes still ripening on her windowsill.  She looks forward to planting the unopened packets and many new selections this year.


Baker Creek offers more than a listing of seeds for purchase. It opens a world of wonder and possibility. That's what gardening is all about.

Four seed catalogs from other popular, well-known companies arrived in my mailbox this week. They all produce a typical magazine-style publication. Between them are thousands of plant possibilities, but none as intriguing as "Dragon Tongue" beans or "French Breakfast" radishes or "Tigerella" tomatoes from Baker Creek (all of which I plan to grow). I will continue to order seeds from other companies for a few tried-and-true plants to populate my garden, but the unique opportunities from the growers at Baker Creek offer a new era.

I encourage you to check out rareseeds.com for a peek into another realm of gardening reality. The website is not nearly as exciting as the catalog, but allows quick and easy ordering. Request a catalog to awaken your senses.

The Baker Creek catalog does a good job of describing each seed selection with number of days until harvest a prominent feature. Descriptive commentary helps you envision the plants for which there are no photos. The number of seeds per order is generous and the prices are amazingly low, lower than many of their competitors. I can find few reasons not to order from them.

As my journey through this new, bewitching world continues, I'll document my experiences. I've selected seeds that should do well in my challenging environment. I expect success, but also anticipate the few failures that usually accompany new gardening attempts. For now I'm basking in the glow of resonating images that spring from the pages of the Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, 2011 Pure Seed Book.
There are some really cool seeds out there! My gardening world will never be the same because of that discovery. Due to my short growing season and busy schedule, I often take a gardening shortcut by buying and planting potted plants. I'll grow sunflowers, corn, green beans, cucumbers, and squash from seed because they grow quickly and don't always transplant well, but when it comes to tomatoes and peppers and melons I've had more success with plants from a nursery or garden center. That will change in 2011 as I focus on growing more plants, and more interesting plants, from seeds.

It's not so much a new year's resolution as it is new inspiration from my cousin Laurie. I didn't realize Laurie and her husband Don were avid gardeners until I visited them at Christmas. As is often the case with me, gardening was an early and common topic of conversation. Laurie turned me on to a seed catalog unlike any I'd ever seen. I have gardening friends who refer to new catalogs as "gardening porn". This seed book is the best porn I've ever seen.

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds specializes in heirloom varieties with a large selection of seeds from the 19th century. They produce an over-sized, glossy-papered abundance of ravishing photos. The engrossing volume draws you in to a world of produce that will have you salivating by the third page. Laurie mentioned the 49 varieties of eggplant when she gave me my own copy of the catalog. I was enthralled by the 111 varieties of squash and pumpkins. I was captivated by the 227 varieties of tomatoes in green, orange, pink, purple, red, striped, white, and yellow options. I wanted to start ordering and growing immediately.

I journeyed through the tome, slowly turning the pages, finding new surprises with each section. Upon reaching the end, I began again with a pen in hand as I highlighted fascinating opportunities. After the third reading my imagination exploded with visions of how my garden would come alive with plants that have never been seen, much less grown, in my region.

Laurie gushed about the seeds she ordered last year and produced a box of colorful packets she hadn't been able to plant. The effusive description of her garden led to the proud display of individual tomatoes still ripening on her windowsill.  She looks forward to planting the unopened packets and many new selections this year.


Baker Creek offers more than a listing of seeds for purchase. It opens a world of wonder and possibility. That's what gardening is all about.

Four seed catalogs from other popular, well-known companies arrived in my mailbox this week. They all produce a typical magazine-style publication. Between them are thousands of plant possibilities, but none as intriguing as "Dragon Tongue" beans or "French Breakfast" radishes or "Tigerella" tomatoes from Baker Creek (all of which I plan to grow). I will continue to order seeds from other companies for a few tried-and-true plants to populate my garden, but the unique opportunities from the growers at Baker Creek offer a new era.

I encourage you to check out rareseeds.com for a peek into another realm of gardening reality. The website is not nearly as exciting as the catalog, but allows quick and easy ordering. Request a catalog to awaken your senses.

The Baker Creek catalog does a good job of describing each seed selection with number of days until harvest a prominent feature. Descriptive commentary helps you envision the plants for which there are no photos. The number of seeds per order is generous and the prices are amazingly low, lower than many of their competitors. I can find few reasons not to order from them.

As my journey through this new, bewitching world continues, I'll document my experiences. I've selected seeds that should do well in my challenging environment. I expect success, but also anticipate the few failures that usually accompany new gardening attempts. For now I'm basking in the glow of resonating images that spring from the pages of the Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, 2011 Pure Seed Book.