A Deer in the Garden

I have a deer problem. It's not a bad one and for now it's small, but it's a problem nonetheless. I suspected deer were exploring my gardens late last year when I detected some tree damage (see my blog, "Not Sheep, Sherlock"). A few months ago I startled a solitary deer grazing on my grass when I opened the back door; he leapt over the fence and disappeared quickly through the neighbor's trees. There have been a few tattletale piles of droppings in far-off sections of the property in the past, but no signs of imminent garden threat. Until now.

Yesterday there were tracks. In my garden. Smack dab in the middle of it.

The proof

The damage was limited to a single corn stalk, and a few of the peas. Many more tasty plants were left untouched. At least for now.

The corn victim

Many of my gardener friends have serious deer issues. They are unable to garden with any freedom because all plants they wish to keep for more than a few days must be fully enclosed by fencing or plastic covers. The deer walk openly through the neighborhoods blatantly destroying the vegetation in their path. There is little that can be done about it.

I garden by the "big neighborhood" theory. Our deer aren't corralled into an urban valley like in many of those neighborhoods. Our deer have miles of open space around my beds and the theory holds that there will be another meal some place else that is easier to acquire. We have dogs and fences and lights and a deer has to be hesitant when venturing near.

The theory also holds that an early morning grazing by a solitary animal is a random occurrence and one that is unlikely to repeat itself often. I'm putting the future of my gardens at risk by relying on such a theory.

Valid or not, I think there is natural support for it. I understand that deer and the many other wild animals in our environment must feed regularly. I also understand that most of them have a fear or mistrust of humans. So they feed in the dark and in areas devoid of human interference. Most of the time it's deep in the trees and away from houses.

But this year was drier than usual. We had very little measurable precipitation in April, May, and June. The normally green fields and forests were reduced to brown landscapes. Deer were forced to journey from their safe havens into the realm of people in search of food. This is a normal trend during drought years. My gardens offered little to entice them then because they were very small oases surrounded by vast expanses of dryness as I struggled with the same weather issues.

This month has been wet. We have enjoyed above normal rainfall levels as almost every day drops some monsoonal moisture. It's green everywhere. The meandering foraging rewards the deer with every step. They don't have to search for food, they just have to bend down and open their mouths.

That's why I'm not too worried about my "big neighborhood" theory and the prints of a single animal. I choose to believe that he was walking through our backyard and was just eating what was in front of him. Some grass, a few wildflowers, a corn stalk, a couple of pea shoots, some more wildflowers, more grass, and the cycle continued as he walked to another neighbor's yard. I'm hoping there was nothing special about what he tasted in my garden. There is a lot of fresh, young grass out there.

However, it may be time to have some concern. That solitary deer may be lying in the shade of a tall pine tree thinking: Now where was that tasty morsel I enjoyed yesterday; I must find it again. And if a single animal finds a topnotch restaurant you know his friends will want to try it too.

So preparation of potential safeguards is nigh. My new garden beds are in the open. They should be fenced before my plants become the culinary delight of the nearby herds. I'm a big believer in decoy plants. If I continue to see signs of deer, next year I'll plant some succulent annuals far away from my treasured vegetables and fruits. If they insist on attending my banquet, let them eat the cheap stuff.

I'm not at the point of trying any deer deterrents, because few of them work effectively and because I don't think it's necessary yet. Part of me thinks that deer are pretty smart and they've learned to identify the so-called deterrents. Somewhere there's a deer thinking: So what are they trying to hide with that wolf urine? I should check it out.

My guard is up. I'll keep looking for more signs of deer as I plan to build that fence. I'll do some more research on deer-preferred plants as I plan next year's garden. I'm not losing any sleep over potential losses of this year's crops. It hasn't happened and I don't expect it. This is a big neighborhood after all.

I have a deer problem. It's not a bad one and for now it's small, but it's a problem nonetheless. I suspected deer were exploring my gardens late last year when I detected some tree damage (see my blog, "Not Sheep, Sherlock"). A few months ago I startled a solitary deer grazing on my grass when I opened the back door; he leapt over the fence and disappeared quickly through the neighbor's trees. There have been a few tattletale piles of droppings in far-off sections of the property in the past, but no signs of imminent garden threat. Until now.

Yesterday there were tracks. In my garden. Smack dab in the middle of it.

The proof

The damage was limited to a single corn stalk, and a few of the peas. Many more tasty plants were left untouched. At least for now.

The corn victim

Many of my gardener friends have serious deer issues. They are unable to garden with any freedom because all plants they wish to keep for more than a few days must be fully enclosed by fencing or plastic covers. The deer walk openly through the neighborhoods blatantly destroying the vegetation in their path. There is little that can be done about it.

I garden by the "big neighborhood" theory. Our deer aren't corralled into an urban valley like in many of those neighborhoods. Our deer have miles of open space around my beds and the theory holds that there will be another meal some place else that is easier to acquire. We have dogs and fences and lights and a deer has to be hesitant when venturing near.

The theory also holds that an early morning grazing by a solitary animal is a random occurrence and one that is unlikely to repeat itself often. I'm putting the future of my gardens at risk by relying on such a theory.

Valid or not, I think there is natural support for it. I understand that deer and the many other wild animals in our environment must feed regularly. I also understand that most of them have a fear or mistrust of humans. So they feed in the dark and in areas devoid of human interference. Most of the time it's deep in the trees and away from houses.

But this year was drier than usual. We had very little measurable precipitation in April, May, and June. The normally green fields and forests were reduced to brown landscapes. Deer were forced to journey from their safe havens into the realm of people in search of food. This is a normal trend during drought years. My gardens offered little to entice them then because they were very small oases surrounded by vast expanses of dryness as I struggled with the same weather issues.

This month has been wet. We have enjoyed above normal rainfall levels as almost every day drops some monsoonal moisture. It's green everywhere. The meandering foraging rewards the deer with every step. They don't have to search for food, they just have to bend down and open their mouths.

That's why I'm not too worried about my "big neighborhood" theory and the prints of a single animal. I choose to believe that he was walking through our backyard and was just eating what was in front of him. Some grass, a few wildflowers, a corn stalk, a couple of pea shoots, some more wildflowers, more grass, and the cycle continued as he walked to another neighbor's yard. I'm hoping there was nothing special about what he tasted in my garden. There is a lot of fresh, young grass out there.

However, it may be time to have some concern. That solitary deer may be lying in the shade of a tall pine tree thinking: Now where was that tasty morsel I enjoyed yesterday; I must find it again. And if a single animal finds a topnotch restaurant you know his friends will want to try it too.

So preparation of potential safeguards is nigh. My new garden beds are in the open. They should be fenced before my plants become the culinary delight of the nearby herds. I'm a big believer in decoy plants. If I continue to see signs of deer, next year I'll plant some succulent annuals far away from my treasured vegetables and fruits. If they insist on attending my banquet, let them eat the cheap stuff.

I'm not at the point of trying any deer deterrents, because few of them work effectively and because I don't think it's necessary yet. Part of me thinks that deer are pretty smart and they've learned to identify the so-called deterrents. Somewhere there's a deer thinking: So what are they trying to hide with that wolf urine? I should check it out.

My guard is up. I'll keep looking for more signs of deer as I plan to build that fence. I'll do some more research on deer-preferred plants as I plan next year's garden. I'm not losing any sleep over potential losses of this year's crops. It hasn't happened and I don't expect it. This is a big neighborhood after all.

Color in the Landscape

I love vegetable gardening and eating the varied delicious results. Harvesting potatoes, tomatoes, beans, spinach, carrots, and the many other crops offers a literal "fruits of my labor" success. My raspberry plants and fruit trees thrill me each time I swallow a warm, ripe berry or savor a juicy plum. Consequently, many of my articles focus on that type of gardening, the growing of edibles. An arena that seems to receive much less literary attention is flower gardening, but it's no less rewarding to me.

Much of my gardening enjoyment comes from the endeavor. I like getting my hands dirty, caring for plants, and struggling to encourage growth in a challenging gardening environment. Vegetable gardening is a series of daily events with planting, weeding, fertilizing, thinning, pruning, and harvesting on the list of chores. For me, my flower beds require much less residual work. I focus on perennials and once the initial planting and mulching is complete, they pretty much take care of themselves and fade on my activity roster. But when they burst into bloom it fosters the same sentiment as my veggies and fruits.

Many of my summer flowers are finally blooming. My season is much later than most due to the high elevation and I seem to enjoy new flowers as other gardeners are watching their gardens wane. The flower beds were put in and planted last year so this is the first season when they've been able to assert their own authority. I'm pleased with the results.

My wife is enchanted by the Kniphofia, the Red Hot Pokers. One long bed is filled with xeric plants and the kniphofia steal the show. Among the flashy Gaillardia, the stately presence of the rainbow stalks draw immediate attention to their display.

Kniphofia showing some color

I devoted an entire bed to lilies of different varieties. Not all of the bulbs produced plants, a deficiency at the nursery I think, but the ones that survived the winter are setting the stage for a regal production. I'll add to the bed in the years ahead to create a mass of plants. Based on this year's display, it will be worth the effort.

Lovely lilies

A small corner of the yard by my stone patio plays host to a desert rock garden. That's a new type of gardening for me and one I'm expanding slowly. The star of that production is the mass of purple ice plants. They require little care once established and are in continual bloom for a lengthy run. The group creeps ever larger and will engulf the small hill next year, just the way I want it.

Ice plants are among my favorites

Daisies are a perennial favorite and I always have them in my garden. The gorgeous mounds of white star flowers create a grand visual attraction. The plants have grown to a great size that will enable me to divide them to enjoy even more flowers next year.

Daisies belong in almost every garden

Even the thyme and sedum I have as groundcover around stepping stones are getting into the act. Their small flowers blast color at foot level. Like walking on a woven carpet, they add a vibrant element to the landscape.

Butterflies enjoy the groundcover

The penstemon flowers are just beginning to peek into view, but the hummingbirds have already discovered the early arrivals. Yesterday I watched a petite hummingbird sitting on the fence line just above the plants, patiently looking down as if to encourage them to come onto the stage.

It took a lot of work by me and many friends to break the sod, amend the soil, and plant the plants. Besides the ones I’ve mentioned, many other beautiful flowers have roles in the landscape. This season I'm able to sit back and enjoy the vivid visual fruits of last year's labor. It's a success story that once again proves how beneficial gardening can be.

I still have many gardening tasks before me in the weeks ahead and almost all of them center around the vegetable garden. It makes those tasks less of a chore when I can take a break and lean from the deck railing or sit on the patio and be surrounded by the colors of nature, colors that I had a hand in creating. The butterflies and birds enjoy the same theater. It makes me glad that I'm not a one-act gardener.

I love vegetable gardening and eating the varied delicious results. Harvesting potatoes, tomatoes, beans, spinach, carrots, and the many other crops offers a literal "fruits of my labor" success. My raspberry plants and fruit trees thrill me each time I swallow a warm, ripe berry or savor a juicy plum. Consequently, many of my articles focus on that type of gardening, the growing of edibles. An arena that seems to receive much less literary attention is flower gardening, but it's no less rewarding to me.

Much of my gardening enjoyment comes from the endeavor. I like getting my hands dirty, caring for plants, and struggling to encourage growth in a challenging gardening environment. Vegetable gardening is a series of daily events with planting, weeding, fertilizing, thinning, pruning, and harvesting on the list of chores. For me, my flower beds require much less residual work. I focus on perennials and once the initial planting and mulching is complete, they pretty much take care of themselves and fade on my activity roster. But when they burst into bloom it fosters the same sentiment as my veggies and fruits.

Many of my summer flowers are finally blooming. My season is much later than most due to the high elevation and I seem to enjoy new flowers as other gardeners are watching their gardens wane. The flower beds were put in and planted last year so this is the first season when they've been able to assert their own authority. I'm pleased with the results.

My wife is enchanted by the Kniphofia, the Red Hot Pokers. One long bed is filled with xeric plants and the kniphofia steal the show. Among the flashy Gaillardia, the stately presence of the rainbow stalks draw immediate attention to their display.

Kniphofia showing some color

I devoted an entire bed to lilies of different varieties. Not all of the bulbs produced plants, a deficiency at the nursery I think, but the ones that survived the winter are setting the stage for a regal production. I'll add to the bed in the years ahead to create a mass of plants. Based on this year's display, it will be worth the effort.

Lovely lilies

A small corner of the yard by my stone patio plays host to a desert rock garden. That's a new type of gardening for me and one I'm expanding slowly. The star of that production is the mass of purple ice plants. They require little care once established and are in continual bloom for a lengthy run. The group creeps ever larger and will engulf the small hill next year, just the way I want it.

Ice plants are among my favorites

Daisies are a perennial favorite and I always have them in my garden. The gorgeous mounds of white star flowers create a grand visual attraction. The plants have grown to a great size that will enable me to divide them to enjoy even more flowers next year.

Daisies belong in almost every garden

Even the thyme and sedum I have as groundcover around stepping stones are getting into the act. Their small flowers blast color at foot level. Like walking on a woven carpet, they add a vibrant element to the landscape.

Butterflies enjoy the groundcover

The penstemon flowers are just beginning to peek into view, but the hummingbirds have already discovered the early arrivals. Yesterday I watched a petite hummingbird sitting on the fence line just above the plants, patiently looking down as if to encourage them to come onto the stage.

It took a lot of work by me and many friends to break the sod, amend the soil, and plant the plants. Besides the ones I’ve mentioned, many other beautiful flowers have roles in the landscape. This season I'm able to sit back and enjoy the vivid visual fruits of last year's labor. It's a success story that once again proves how beneficial gardening can be.

I still have many gardening tasks before me in the weeks ahead and almost all of them center around the vegetable garden. It makes those tasks less of a chore when I can take a break and lean from the deck railing or sit on the patio and be surrounded by the colors of nature, colors that I had a hand in creating. The butterflies and birds enjoy the same theater. It makes me glad that I'm not a one-act gardener.

Weeding Your Garden

Wednesday is weed day for me. As I mentioned in my earlier article, "Weeds in the Garden", I try to dedicate a day of gardening tasks to weeding. This wasn't always the case. For many years weeds had more time to grow than I had time to remove them. When I finally attacked them it would take nearly a full day to remove the thousands of plants overwhelming my garden beds, and even then all of the miscreants weren't eradicated.

I've since learned that mulching and regular weeding makes the task less imposing. Now when I focus a day on weeding, the activity takes less than an hour. The key is to stay on top of weeds. Pulling a few every time you're in the garden helps keep them from overrunning your plants.

Mulch is a critical first-line defense. One of the wonderful attributes of mulch is that it reduces weeds. When weeds do pop through the mulch they're often easy to identify and easy to remove. A simple tug is usually enough to dislodge them. This year my raised beds are all mulched and I've been able to keep them virtually weed-free. The weeds still invade but with only five or ten minutes of effort every other day I can eliminate them from all 13 beds.

Mulch reduces weeds

I divide weeds into two broad categories: shallow root and deep root. Shallow-root weeds are easy to remove by hand or with a tool like a hoe (more on that later). Deep-root weeds take a little more effort to remove and often require individual attention with a specialized tool. Shallow-root weeds are often annual weeds and deep root ones are often perennial. Young deep-root weeds can be removed as easily as shallow root ones.

Because I make an almost daily effort to weed, my hands are the tools of choice. I grab the solitary invader close to the soil surface and pull it out. Because of my vigilance they seldom have seeds so I just toss the little plant on top the mulch to decompose and add some nutrients back to my soil.

When weeds are more plentiful, particularly in un-mulched areas, trying to pull each one by hand can be daunting. That's when real tools come into play. While you can find dozens of weed-fighting options, there are three weed attackers that I keep in my weapons bin: a dandelion weeder (also called a taproot weeder), a right-handed weeder (AKA a collinear hand weeder), and a stirrup hoe (AKA a shuffle hoe or Dutch hoe).

The dandelion weeder should be in every gardener's shed. Designed for deep-root weeds like dandelions, it has a long shank with a notch at the tip that allows you to spear it deep into the soil and dig out the weed's long taproot in one piece. This is important because many deep-root weeds will regrow if a portion of the taproot remains in the soil. Trying to yank them out by hand seldom removes the entire root. I use a hand version of this weeder but you can also find long-handled versions that allow you to dig out weeds while standing up.

Using a Dandelion weeder

For shallow-root weeds growing near valuable garden plants I use a right-handed weeder (left-handed versions are also available). This tool has a flat, sharp blade attached to the handle by a thin curved shank. The idea is to draw the blade through the soil, just below the surface, and slice off the weeds from their roots. It works very quickly and very effectively. The roots are severed and the weeds die. Because many of these weeds are annuals, they won't return. The small size and pointed tip of the tool allows you to remove weeds without damaging nearby plants.

Using a right-handed weeder

When weeds have overtaken a large area, I reach for my stirrup hoe. It also drags just below the soil surface slicing weeds. The long handle allows me to preform the task standing up with minimal effort. The action end has a flat blade held in place by a stirrup-shaped frame. Basic designs vary, but mine allows it to remove weeds with both the forward and backward strokes of the tool. In little time a large area can be weeded. I love this tool.

A stirrup hoe makes short work of weeds

While I prefer to use mechanical methods for removing weeds, I do occasionally resort to herbicides. Weeds that grow in my garden beds are removed by hand or tool; I don't want to risk damaging my garden plants with chemicals. But when weeds overpower my garden paths or thrive in areas that don't threaten valued plants spraying with an herbicide can make the task easy.

These weeds in the path will be sprayed

I use two basic types of herbicide. There is the broad-spectrum, non-selective herbicide that kills almost every plant it touches. The most common type is glyphosate (widely known as Roundup); it kills both shallow-root and deep-root weeds, and just about any other plant. The second type is a broad-leaf herbicide like 2, 4-D. It's sold under many brand names as a lawn weeder; it kills weeds with broad leaves but won't harm grass.

As I mentioned in the previous article, weed identification is important. Knowing your weeds will help you choose the correct tool for removing them. Using a stirrup hoe on dandelions won't kill them, but it will cut off the plant before it flowers and sets seed. My nemesis is Purslane; it is easily removed by hand or tool, but is very resistant to herbicides.

Purslane is grown by some gardeners on purpose because it is edible and supposedly tastes good in a salad. For me it is a scourge. In my previous garden it grew rampant and was the reason I had to spend so much time weeding. In my current garden it hasn't taken hold and I make extra effort to keep it that way. Some seeds obviously hitchhiked in soil of transplants I moved to our new home. Purslane grows quickly and sets seed early; it will even set seed after it's been pulled. When I see it I pull it and I discard larger plants in the trash so they won't have any chance of spreading seed. If I delay in my duties it may take over and I don't want that to happen. By knowing this weed I know how important it is to deal with it.

Purslane trying to gain a foothold

What to do with the pulled, sliced, or dug-up weeds is a personal choice. As I mentioned above, for the occasional young weed I pull in my raised beds I just toss it on top of the mulch in the bed. During weed day when I remove a large number of weeds, the compost pile is often the repository. If the weeds have flowered and set seed they usually end up in the trash; I prefer not to add more seeds to my environment.

One last factor needs to be considered when weeding. There are millions of seeds in the soil of a typical home landscape. Each of those seeds is waiting for the opportunity to germinate and make your day a little more challenging. The majority of them will never sprout, but every time you dig or disturb the soil you give some of them the chance. When you pull a weed you are also pulling up soil that contains the brother and sister seeds of that plant and they're more than willing to replace it. That's one reason weeding seems to be a never-ending chore and why they tend to grow in groups.

When you use a hoe or hand tool you will wake up seeds hiding in the soil. You better be prepared to repeat the process regularly. A benefit of herbicides is that they don't disturb the soil. The plant dies and nearby seeds aren't encouraged to grow. That's a primary reason I use herbicides on my garden paths; it reduces the number of future weeds.

Weeding isn't pleasurable. If you want to give your plants the best opportunity for success you need to remove competitors and weeding becomes necessary. How you do it is up to you. Hands, tools, and chemicals are about the only ways to attack them and you get to choose your preferred method. Consider a combination as I do. Regardless of your tack, if you act early and often the overall effort becomes easier.

Wednesday is weed day for me. As I mentioned in my earlier article, "Weeds in the Garden", I try to dedicate a day of gardening tasks to weeding. This wasn't always the case. For many years weeds had more time to grow than I had time to remove them. When I finally attacked them it would take nearly a full day to remove the thousands of plants overwhelming my garden beds, and even then all of the miscreants weren't eradicated.

I've since learned that mulching and regular weeding makes the task less imposing. Now when I focus a day on weeding, the activity takes less than an hour. The key is to stay on top of weeds. Pulling a few every time you're in the garden helps keep them from overrunning your plants.

Mulch is a critical first-line defense. One of the wonderful attributes of mulch is that it reduces weeds. When weeds do pop through the mulch they're often easy to identify and easy to remove. A simple tug is usually enough to dislodge them. This year my raised beds are all mulched and I've been able to keep them virtually weed-free. The weeds still invade but with only five or ten minutes of effort every other day I can eliminate them from all 13 beds.

Mulch reduces weeds

I divide weeds into two broad categories: shallow root and deep root. Shallow-root weeds are easy to remove by hand or with a tool like a hoe (more on that later). Deep-root weeds take a little more effort to remove and often require individual attention with a specialized tool. Shallow-root weeds are often annual weeds and deep root ones are often perennial. Young deep-root weeds can be removed as easily as shallow root ones.

Because I make an almost daily effort to weed, my hands are the tools of choice. I grab the solitary invader close to the soil surface and pull it out. Because of my vigilance they seldom have seeds so I just toss the little plant on top the mulch to decompose and add some nutrients back to my soil.

When weeds are more plentiful, particularly in un-mulched areas, trying to pull each one by hand can be daunting. That's when real tools come into play. While you can find dozens of weed-fighting options, there are three weed attackers that I keep in my weapons bin: a dandelion weeder (also called a taproot weeder), a right-handed weeder (AKA a collinear hand weeder), and a stirrup hoe (AKA a shuffle hoe or Dutch hoe).

The dandelion weeder should be in every gardener's shed. Designed for deep-root weeds like dandelions, it has a long shank with a notch at the tip that allows you to spear it deep into the soil and dig out the weed's long taproot in one piece. This is important because many deep-root weeds will regrow if a portion of the taproot remains in the soil. Trying to yank them out by hand seldom removes the entire root. I use a hand version of this weeder but you can also find long-handled versions that allow you to dig out weeds while standing up.

Using a Dandelion weeder

For shallow-root weeds growing near valuable garden plants I use a right-handed weeder (left-handed versions are also available). This tool has a flat, sharp blade attached to the handle by a thin curved shank. The idea is to draw the blade through the soil, just below the surface, and slice off the weeds from their roots. It works very quickly and very effectively. The roots are severed and the weeds die. Because many of these weeds are annuals, they won't return. The small size and pointed tip of the tool allows you to remove weeds without damaging nearby plants.

Using a right-handed weeder

When weeds have overtaken a large area, I reach for my stirrup hoe. It also drags just below the soil surface slicing weeds. The long handle allows me to preform the task standing up with minimal effort. The action end has a flat blade held in place by a stirrup-shaped frame. Basic designs vary, but mine allows it to remove weeds with both the forward and backward strokes of the tool. In little time a large area can be weeded. I love this tool.

A stirrup hoe makes short work of weeds

While I prefer to use mechanical methods for removing weeds, I do occasionally resort to herbicides. Weeds that grow in my garden beds are removed by hand or tool; I don't want to risk damaging my garden plants with chemicals. But when weeds overpower my garden paths or thrive in areas that don't threaten valued plants spraying with an herbicide can make the task easy.

These weeds in the path will be sprayed

I use two basic types of herbicide. There is the broad-spectrum, non-selective herbicide that kills almost every plant it touches. The most common type is glyphosate (widely known as Roundup); it kills both shallow-root and deep-root weeds, and just about any other plant. The second type is a broad-leaf herbicide like 2, 4-D. It's sold under many brand names as a lawn weeder; it kills weeds with broad leaves but won't harm grass.

As I mentioned in the previous article, weed identification is important. Knowing your weeds will help you choose the correct tool for removing them. Using a stirrup hoe on dandelions won't kill them, but it will cut off the plant before it flowers and sets seed. My nemesis is Purslane; it is easily removed by hand or tool, but is very resistant to herbicides.

Purslane is grown by some gardeners on purpose because it is edible and supposedly tastes good in a salad. For me it is a scourge. In my previous garden it grew rampant and was the reason I had to spend so much time weeding. In my current garden it hasn't taken hold and I make extra effort to keep it that way. Some seeds obviously hitchhiked in soil of transplants I moved to our new home. Purslane grows quickly and sets seed early; it will even set seed after it's been pulled. When I see it I pull it and I discard larger plants in the trash so they won't have any chance of spreading seed. If I delay in my duties it may take over and I don't want that to happen. By knowing this weed I know how important it is to deal with it.

Purslane trying to gain a foothold

What to do with the pulled, sliced, or dug-up weeds is a personal choice. As I mentioned above, for the occasional young weed I pull in my raised beds I just toss it on top of the mulch in the bed. During weed day when I remove a large number of weeds, the compost pile is often the repository. If the weeds have flowered and set seed they usually end up in the trash; I prefer not to add more seeds to my environment.

One last factor needs to be considered when weeding. There are millions of seeds in the soil of a typical home landscape. Each of those seeds is waiting for the opportunity to germinate and make your day a little more challenging. The majority of them will never sprout, but every time you dig or disturb the soil you give some of them the chance. When you pull a weed you are also pulling up soil that contains the brother and sister seeds of that plant and they're more than willing to replace it. That's one reason weeding seems to be a never-ending chore and why they tend to grow in groups.

When you use a hoe or hand tool you will wake up seeds hiding in the soil. You better be prepared to repeat the process regularly. A benefit of herbicides is that they don't disturb the soil. The plant dies and nearby seeds aren't encouraged to grow. That's a primary reason I use herbicides on my garden paths; it reduces the number of future weeds.

Weeding isn't pleasurable. If you want to give your plants the best opportunity for success you need to remove competitors and weeding becomes necessary. How you do it is up to you. Hands, tools, and chemicals are about the only ways to attack them and you get to choose your preferred method. Consider a combination as I do. Regardless of your tack, if you act early and often the overall effort becomes easier.

Tomato Problems

Tomatoes are the number one backyard food crop in the United States. Virtually every gardener has tomatoes in their garden or has tried to grow them. In a pot on a deck, in garden rows and beds, or hanging upside down, tomato plants offer relatively easy opportunities for delicious fruit. But try as they do, some gardeners don't  understand why they don't get many or any fruit from their pampered plants.

Garden tomatoes can't be beat

As robust as they can be, tomatoes have some specific requirements that will hinder fruit production if not met. And there are natural forces at work to make things difficult.

Sun, or lack of it, is one of the most common reasons for a poor harvest. Tomatoes need at least eight hours of full sun each day of the growing season. With less sun the plants may get spindly and will produce little fruit. Many garden plants can handle some shade with little adverse effect, but not so for tomatoes. If your plants aren't producing fruit, check their sun exposure. When planted in late spring they may have started in full sun, but as the season progressed the sun's angle changed and they may have ended in shade at the critical time of fruiting. If they're in a pot you can move the pot into the sun but if they're in a garden bed you'll have to make note of it and plant them differently next year.

Tomatoes need consistent soil moisture levels. Too much or too little water can cause the blossoms to fall off the plant, the fruit to split, or blossom end rot to develop. To help with this issue, tomatoes should be planted in well-drained soils amended with organic material and they should be mulched well. The soil shouldn't be allowed to dry out or stay soggy. A consistent moist environment is important.

Blossom end rot usually appears when the fruit is about half its full size. On the bottom of the fruit, the blossom end, a small, water-soaked spot develops. As the fruit grows, the spot gets bigger and darker. It may remain small and dark or it may get black and leathery and cover half of the fruit. Once it develops it cannot be removed or "fixed". It's caused by a calcium deficiency in the plant. Seldom the problem is due to not enough calcium in the soil, though you can help by adding eggshells, oyster shells and other calcium supplements to your soil. The most common cause is the soil drying out during fruiting. With no water uptake from the dry soil, the plant stops absorbing calcium from the soil and blossom end rot develops. The cure is to never allow your soil to dry out.

Another common reason for low fruit production is blossom drop due to temperature extremes. Tomatoes grow best when the day temperatures are between 70F and 85F degrees (21C and 29C) and the night temperatures are above 55F degrees (13C). Plants can handle temporary temperatures outside these parameters but if they are exposed to sustained extreme conditions the blossoms will literally fall off the plant and no fruit will develop. When summer days stay at 90F and above, fruit production will falter. In cool climates if the plants are planted too early, steady nighttime temps below 55F will hinder fruit development. At the height of summer if the night temperatures get above 70F degrees (21C) the same problems will happen.

Like all plants with flowers, tomatoes require pollination. Bees, flies, butterflies, and wind will all help pollination but in the extreme heat of summer all of those pollinators may be reduced. Without pollination fruit won't develop. You can help by hand pollinating the flowers but a better approach may be to plant a variety of flowers near your tomato plants to attract the bees and butterflies.

Fertilization benefits most plants and tomatoes like a boost too, but too much nitrogen early in the plant's growth will give you big, lush, green plants with very little fruit. It's best to limit nitrogen fertilizers early on. A balanced fertilizer (5-5-5 or 8-8-8) is okay at planting but wait until the plants flower before applying more.

Many tomatoes are susceptible to fungal diseases. Just about the time the fruit is getting large and beginning to turn red the leaves begin to turn yellow, then brown and black, and the fruit is left to wither away; Fusarium wilt is a common cause. Over and under watering can cause similar symptoms so that's another reason to maintain proper irrigation methods.

This yellowing may be a wilt issue or because of torrential rains

When yellow blotches develop on lower leaves that turn into brown dead spots, it's probably Verticillium wilt. The best way to approach both of these problems is to buy plants that are labeled with a code like "F", "VF", "VFN", "VFNA", or "VFNT" that shows they are resistant to these fungal concerns.

How you water can reduce some problems. Overhead watering on bare soil can introduce problems like early blight, caused by another fungus. When the water splashes on the soil it sends the spores onto the leaves and stems to cause brown and black spots and dead leaves. It can spot the fruit but more often causes problems like sunburn because of reduced leaf cover. Sunscald and sunburn discolors and toughens areas of the fruit. Use an irrigation method like soaker hoses with mulch to reduce these issues.

Rotating crops can also help. Avoid planting tomatoes in the same spot every year, especially if you've had fungal problems. Ideally you want to wait four or five years before planting tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes in the same spot. Plant other types of crops in the interim and put your tomatoes in a new, sunny bed each year.

Always, always remove infected or diseased plants and throw them away. This is one time you don't want to add plants to the compost pile. Allowing an infected plant to stay in the garden or compost gives the fungal spores and other pathogens an opportunity to infect future plants.


 

Regardless of the problem this withered plant has to go

Of course there are a number of insects and pests that affect fruit production. Caterpillars and grasshoppers will eat the end of the blossom stalk and prevent fruit from ever developing. If you have stubs where your flowers used to be, do a thorough inspection of the plant to try and find the culprit. If you can pick them off by hand, do it. If you decide to use a pesticide choose one that is intended for the specific insect and only apply it on the plants you're trying to protect.

There are also bacteria and viruses that affect tomatoes. Hail and wind can cause damage. If you're having difficulty, take a little time to try and analyze the issue. There are a number of sources for more information about tomato problems. Colorado State University has a good fact sheet: "Recognizing Tomato Problems".

Tomatoes are wonderful plants that have a place in almost every garden. When conditions and gardener actions are good they seem to produce abundant fruit with little work. When an imbalance develops due to weather, nature, or gardener oversight, little fruit develops regardless of the effort.

I know many gardeners who stopped growing tomatoes, particularly in Colorado, because it was hard and didn't seem worth the attempt. With a little extra knowledge and attention, tomatoes can be successful. My 7,500' garden produces tomatoes. It's not always easy, but the fruit always tastes better when you have to work for it.  

 

Tomatoes are the number one backyard food crop in the United States. Virtually every gardener has tomatoes in their garden or has tried to grow them. In a pot on a deck, in garden rows and beds, or hanging upside down, tomato plants offer relatively easy opportunities for delicious fruit. But try as they do, some gardeners don't  understand why they don't get many or any fruit from their pampered plants.

Garden tomatoes can't be beat

As robust as they can be, tomatoes have some specific requirements that will hinder fruit production if not met. And there are natural forces at work to make things difficult.

Sun, or lack of it, is one of the most common reasons for a poor harvest. Tomatoes need at least eight hours of full sun each day of the growing season. With less sun the plants may get spindly and will produce little fruit. Many garden plants can handle some shade with little adverse effect, but not so for tomatoes. If your plants aren't producing fruit, check their sun exposure. When planted in late spring they may have started in full sun, but as the season progressed the sun's angle changed and they may have ended in shade at the critical time of fruiting. If they're in a pot you can move the pot into the sun but if they're in a garden bed you'll have to make note of it and plant them differently next year.

Tomatoes need consistent soil moisture levels. Too much or too little water can cause the blossoms to fall off the plant, the fruit to split, or blossom end rot to develop. To help with this issue, tomatoes should be planted in well-drained soils amended with organic material and they should be mulched well. The soil shouldn't be allowed to dry out or stay soggy. A consistent moist environment is important.

Blossom end rot usually appears when the fruit is about half its full size. On the bottom of the fruit, the blossom end, a small, water-soaked spot develops. As the fruit grows, the spot gets bigger and darker. It may remain small and dark or it may get black and leathery and cover half of the fruit. Once it develops it cannot be removed or "fixed". It's caused by a calcium deficiency in the plant. Seldom the problem is due to not enough calcium in the soil, though you can help by adding eggshells, oyster shells and other calcium supplements to your soil. The most common cause is the soil drying out during fruiting. With no water uptake from the dry soil, the plant stops absorbing calcium from the soil and blossom end rot develops. The cure is to never allow your soil to dry out.

Another common reason for low fruit production is blossom drop due to temperature extremes. Tomatoes grow best when the day temperatures are between 70F and 85F degrees (21C and 29C) and the night temperatures are above 55F degrees (13C). Plants can handle temporary temperatures outside these parameters but if they are exposed to sustained extreme conditions the blossoms will literally fall off the plant and no fruit will develop. When summer days stay at 90F and above, fruit production will falter. In cool climates if the plants are planted too early, steady nighttime temps below 55F will hinder fruit development. At the height of summer if the night temperatures get above 70F degrees (21C) the same problems will happen.

Like all plants with flowers, tomatoes require pollination. Bees, flies, butterflies, and wind will all help pollination but in the extreme heat of summer all of those pollinators may be reduced. Without pollination fruit won't develop. You can help by hand pollinating the flowers but a better approach may be to plant a variety of flowers near your tomato plants to attract the bees and butterflies.

Fertilization benefits most plants and tomatoes like a boost too, but too much nitrogen early in the plant's growth will give you big, lush, green plants with very little fruit. It's best to limit nitrogen fertilizers early on. A balanced fertilizer (5-5-5 or 8-8-8) is okay at planting but wait until the plants flower before applying more.

Many tomatoes are susceptible to fungal diseases. Just about the time the fruit is getting large and beginning to turn red the leaves begin to turn yellow, then brown and black, and the fruit is left to wither away; Fusarium wilt is a common cause. Over and under watering can cause similar symptoms so that's another reason to maintain proper irrigation methods.

This yellowing may be a wilt issue or because of torrential rains

When yellow blotches develop on lower leaves that turn into brown dead spots, it's probably Verticillium wilt. The best way to approach both of these problems is to buy plants that are labeled with a code like "F", "VF", "VFN", "VFNA", or "VFNT" that shows they are resistant to these fungal concerns.

How you water can reduce some problems. Overhead watering on bare soil can introduce problems like early blight, caused by another fungus. When the water splashes on the soil it sends the spores onto the leaves and stems to cause brown and black spots and dead leaves. It can spot the fruit but more often causes problems like sunburn because of reduced leaf cover. Sunscald and sunburn discolors and toughens areas of the fruit. Use an irrigation method like soaker hoses with mulch to reduce these issues.

Rotating crops can also help. Avoid planting tomatoes in the same spot every year, especially if you've had fungal problems. Ideally you want to wait four or five years before planting tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes in the same spot. Plant other types of crops in the interim and put your tomatoes in a new, sunny bed each year.

Always, always remove infected or diseased plants and throw them away. This is one time you don't want to add plants to the compost pile. Allowing an infected plant to stay in the garden or compost gives the fungal spores and other pathogens an opportunity to infect future plants.


 

Regardless of the problem this withered plant has to go

Of course there are a number of insects and pests that affect fruit production. Caterpillars and grasshoppers will eat the end of the blossom stalk and prevent fruit from ever developing. If you have stubs where your flowers used to be, do a thorough inspection of the plant to try and find the culprit. If you can pick them off by hand, do it. If you decide to use a pesticide choose one that is intended for the specific insect and only apply it on the plants you're trying to protect.

There are also bacteria and viruses that affect tomatoes. Hail and wind can cause damage. If you're having difficulty, take a little time to try and analyze the issue. There are a number of sources for more information about tomato problems. Colorado State University has a good fact sheet: "Recognizing Tomato Problems".

Tomatoes are wonderful plants that have a place in almost every garden. When conditions and gardener actions are good they seem to produce abundant fruit with little work. When an imbalance develops due to weather, nature, or gardener oversight, little fruit develops regardless of the effort.

I know many gardeners who stopped growing tomatoes, particularly in Colorado, because it was hard and didn't seem worth the attempt. With a little extra knowledge and attention, tomatoes can be successful. My 7,500' garden produces tomatoes. It's not always easy, but the fruit always tastes better when you have to work for it.  

 

Too Much Rain in the Garden

Every year has its memorable weather events and this one isn't disappointing in that respect. From record snow to record tornadoes to record floods to record heat, the United States is going to long remember 2011. While many of these events affect different regions at different times, each of us has to deal with some type of weather adversity in our gardens on a regular basis.

A short while ago I was writing about drought and the effects of overly-dry conditions. Since then the monsoon season began early and rain became a common occurrence. Last week Colorado Springs set a new record for most rainfall in one day; 2.3 inches fell in the afternoon. Just when I was dealing with irrigation issues to try and keep my plants watered, I suddenly had to deal with drainage issues to try and keep my plants from drowning.

Drainage holes weren't enough in this bird feeder

I'm always advocating steady observation in the garden. We like to garden in typical ways on typical days, but should take full advantage of extremes. Whether extremely dry or extremely wet, we should stop and pay attention to how our gardens and plants are reacting. When we are able to modify our actions effectively for the unique events, daily activities become downright easy.

My latest dilemma arose due to saturated soil. As part of my analysis of the soil in my vegetable garden, I realized I have an expansive layer of clay about a foot down. To overcome this problem I brought in a few truckloads of amended soil. That raised the surface level to offer plant roots more room to grow before encountering the clay. In dry conditions that solution works well but after days of torrential rain the upper soil is soaked and drainage becomes virtually nonexistent when the water hits the clay level.

In my numerous raised beds, I brought in new soil and amended it well. As I've described previously, compost and organic matter act as little sponges to absorb water and help keep the soil moist. That reduces the need for daily watering during dry days. During the monsoon season the excessive rain and vertical sides on the beds create a bathtub effect that can hold in the water and the organic sponges keep it there.

So much rain wasn't good for young plants

Soggy, saturated soil will kill plants in time. The key to dealing with that is to recognize it as a problem. On normal days, pooling water between my rows of plants isn't an issue because it will gradually seep into the soil and nourish roots. After successive days of rain, pooling water is a concern because if it remains above the surface for long periods of time that identifies the waterlogged state below the surface as extreme. The roots are drowning.

Regardless of how much time was spent designing channels and troughs to collect and divert water for dry days, it's now time to dig through the little dirt walls and allow the water to drain away from the garden. Once soil is saturated the only thing to do is to reduce the addition of more water.

Time to redirect pooled water

Just as we can hold our breath for short periods when swimming underwater, plants can handle a brief period without oxygen. Sustained water exposure is deadly, but when you take efforts to cut that exposure you offer your plants a chance to take a breath, so to speak.

Eventually sun and wind will dry out the garden and things can return to normal. You can use that as part of your recovery plan. Mulch works very well to keep the soil surface from drying out. During extreme water events you may need to remove mulch to give the soil extra opportunity to dry. Expose as much surface area as possible to the air.

I use straw as a mulch in many areas. Extra straw in the low spots will absorb rain. If I pull out the soggy straw after a strong storm, I can at least keep that amount of water from adding to the drainage concerns.

If you cover your raised beds with plastic during cold weather, it may be time to bring the plastic back out and cover the beds during wet weather. Watch the forecast and put a lid on the bathtub to keep it from filling.

Identify points and places where the water pooling is worst. Just as a pot needs drainage holes, you may need to create drainage in areas of your garden you hadn't anticipated. Drilled holes in a raised bed, overflow hoses, and alternate water channels can divert excess water. You may be able to make some of those corrections during the rain storm and you may have to wait until the soil has dried afterward. Either way act to keep the problems from returning.

Some things should go without saying, but I'll say them anyway. If your irrigation is on an automatic timer turn it off after a day or two of excessive rain. You don't want to add to the problem by overlooking that. Before you begin watering again don't assume the roots are good because the surface is dry; make a physical check of the moisture level a few inches deep.

If you're planning a new bed in the future or redoing an old one and plan to bring in custom soil, opt for one that has a good sand component. Sand drains well and can help minimize drainage issues. Organic soil amendments are always a good idea and ensuring clay soil is amended well can improve its drainage.

We've had a few dry days and my garden has recovered. But there's a solid chance of more rain today and for the next few afternoons. I now have drainage channels, plastic ready to pull over the hoops on the raised beds, reduced mulch in some spots, and extra straw in others. I look forward to the rain because it cuts down on my need for supplemental watering and now I don't need to be as concerned about drowning my plants.

 

Every year has its memorable weather events and this one isn't disappointing in that respect. From record snow to record tornadoes to record floods to record heat, the United States is going to long remember 2011. While many of these events affect different regions at different times, each of us has to deal with some type of weather adversity in our gardens on a regular basis.

A short while ago I was writing about drought and the effects of overly-dry conditions. Since then the monsoon season began early and rain became a common occurrence. Last week Colorado Springs set a new record for most rainfall in one day; 2.3 inches fell in the afternoon. Just when I was dealing with irrigation issues to try and keep my plants watered, I suddenly had to deal with drainage issues to try and keep my plants from drowning.

Drainage holes weren't enough in this bird feeder

I'm always advocating steady observation in the garden. We like to garden in typical ways on typical days, but should take full advantage of extremes. Whether extremely dry or extremely wet, we should stop and pay attention to how our gardens and plants are reacting. When we are able to modify our actions effectively for the unique events, daily activities become downright easy.

My latest dilemma arose due to saturated soil. As part of my analysis of the soil in my vegetable garden, I realized I have an expansive layer of clay about a foot down. To overcome this problem I brought in a few truckloads of amended soil. That raised the surface level to offer plant roots more room to grow before encountering the clay. In dry conditions that solution works well but after days of torrential rain the upper soil is soaked and drainage becomes virtually nonexistent when the water hits the clay level.

In my numerous raised beds, I brought in new soil and amended it well. As I've described previously, compost and organic matter act as little sponges to absorb water and help keep the soil moist. That reduces the need for daily watering during dry days. During the monsoon season the excessive rain and vertical sides on the beds create a bathtub effect that can hold in the water and the organic sponges keep it there.

So much rain wasn't good for young plants

Soggy, saturated soil will kill plants in time. The key to dealing with that is to recognize it as a problem. On normal days, pooling water between my rows of plants isn't an issue because it will gradually seep into the soil and nourish roots. After successive days of rain, pooling water is a concern because if it remains above the surface for long periods of time that identifies the waterlogged state below the surface as extreme. The roots are drowning.

Regardless of how much time was spent designing channels and troughs to collect and divert water for dry days, it's now time to dig through the little dirt walls and allow the water to drain away from the garden. Once soil is saturated the only thing to do is to reduce the addition of more water.

Time to redirect pooled water

Just as we can hold our breath for short periods when swimming underwater, plants can handle a brief period without oxygen. Sustained water exposure is deadly, but when you take efforts to cut that exposure you offer your plants a chance to take a breath, so to speak.

Eventually sun and wind will dry out the garden and things can return to normal. You can use that as part of your recovery plan. Mulch works very well to keep the soil surface from drying out. During extreme water events you may need to remove mulch to give the soil extra opportunity to dry. Expose as much surface area as possible to the air.

I use straw as a mulch in many areas. Extra straw in the low spots will absorb rain. If I pull out the soggy straw after a strong storm, I can at least keep that amount of water from adding to the drainage concerns.

If you cover your raised beds with plastic during cold weather, it may be time to bring the plastic back out and cover the beds during wet weather. Watch the forecast and put a lid on the bathtub to keep it from filling.

Identify points and places where the water pooling is worst. Just as a pot needs drainage holes, you may need to create drainage in areas of your garden you hadn't anticipated. Drilled holes in a raised bed, overflow hoses, and alternate water channels can divert excess water. You may be able to make some of those corrections during the rain storm and you may have to wait until the soil has dried afterward. Either way act to keep the problems from returning.

Some things should go without saying, but I'll say them anyway. If your irrigation is on an automatic timer turn it off after a day or two of excessive rain. You don't want to add to the problem by overlooking that. Before you begin watering again don't assume the roots are good because the surface is dry; make a physical check of the moisture level a few inches deep.

If you're planning a new bed in the future or redoing an old one and plan to bring in custom soil, opt for one that has a good sand component. Sand drains well and can help minimize drainage issues. Organic soil amendments are always a good idea and ensuring clay soil is amended well can improve its drainage.

We've had a few dry days and my garden has recovered. But there's a solid chance of more rain today and for the next few afternoons. I now have drainage channels, plastic ready to pull over the hoops on the raised beds, reduced mulch in some spots, and extra straw in others. I look forward to the rain because it cuts down on my need for supplemental watering and now I don't need to be as concerned about drowning my plants.

 

Plant a Fall Crop

The heat of summer has just about brought an end to the cool season plants like broccoli, spinach, lettuce, peas, and radishes. They've bolted, they're bitter, and their flowers are turning to seed. Many gardeners see this point of the season as the end of their spring planting and allow those areas of the garden to descend into anarchy. I see it as the beginning of the fall planting and an opportunity to maintain order in the garden.

Seed pods developing on a radish plant

Midsummer is a perfect time to plant vegetables for a second harvest. As their moniker implies, cool season plants like cool weather conditions. It seems anachronistic to plant cool season plants in the heat of summer, but you need to look into the future. The seeds will germinate and begin growing under the summer sun but six weeks or two months later when the plants are approaching the point of harvest days and nights will be much cooler. The plants will be at their prime when weather conditions are perfect for them.

Some people suggest that a fall crop actually tastes better than a summer crop of cool season plants. There is valid reasoning behind this. Spring-sown plants are encountering stressful conditions at the point they are ready to harvest. The increasing sun and heat affects their growth and taste (see my article, "When Plants Bolt"). Summer-sown plants are able to direct all of their energy into growth and improved taste because the cooler autumn conditions don't trigger bolting and seed development.

To plant a second garden, for fall harvest, you can use the same plots for the same cool season plants. Your spinach still looks good, but it's past the point of usefulness in the kitchen. Pull it out, throw it in the compost pile, and sow new seeds. If you're letting some of the spinach flowers develop into seeds fully, as I am, sow in rows between the old, straggly plants. When you collect the seeds for next year you can pull out the old plants and add them to your pile. The new seedlings will have room to grow.

Spinach is bolting and turning bitter

I'm still harvesting peas for a little while longer. Some of the plants are finished. I've sown new seeds in the bare spots of vacated plants and in the spaces between the plants still producing. I'll be harvesting a whole new crop of peas in September and probably well into October.

Peas are still producing but there's room for seeds

You can rip out all of your old plants to sow a new planting in a fresh bed, but I think sowing between established plants helps the new seedlings. The hot sun can raise the soil temperature and can stress a young cool season seedling. The established plants act as protective guardians shading and lowering the soil temperature until the new plants can get established.

Either way, the soil needs to be kept moist while the seeds germinate and in summer that may mean extra watering. In spring you can get away with minimal irrigation as seeds develop, but in summer it requires extra effort to ensure the seeds don't dry out at a critical point or that the seedlings don't desiccate in the wind and sun. In return you won't have to water as much in fall because the plants' needs are reduced in the cooler conditions.

Knowing your first frost date is important so you have an idea of how long you have available for the plants to reach maturity and produce a crop. Allow enough time from summer sowing to fall harvest based on your local climate.

Many cool season plants can handle a light freeze so the first frost won't be as devastating for them as for warm season plants like tomatoes and peppers and beans and squash. Broccoli, cauliflower, cilantro, lettuce, peas, spinach, and chard can all shrug off a light frost. Some, like kale, Brussels sprouts, beets, cabbage, and collard greens can survive down to 20F degrees.

You can expect a steady and longer harvest of summer-sown plants. Radishes, carrots, and parsnips can even handle frozen soil. I'm told parsnips actually taste sweeter when allowed to endure freezes into January. That's my harvest plan for this plant new to my garden this year.

With season-extending structures, you can lengthen your fall harvest even more (see my article "Extending Your Growing Season with Mini Greenhouses"). Light frost and even killing freezes can be combated by covering your plants.

So don't despair that so much of your garden has stopped producing and is withering. Use the opportunity to continue gardening well into the cold months of the year. Plant in summer for a fall crop that may provide bounty into winter.

 Link to "Extending Your Growing Season with Mini Greenhouses."

The heat of summer has just about brought an end to the cool season plants like broccoli, spinach, lettuce, peas, and radishes. They've bolted, they're bitter, and their flowers are turning to seed. Many gardeners see this point of the season as the end of their spring planting and allow those areas of the garden to descend into anarchy. I see it as the beginning of the fall planting and an opportunity to maintain order in the garden.

Seed pods developing on a radish plant

Midsummer is a perfect time to plant vegetables for a second harvest. As their moniker implies, cool season plants like cool weather conditions. It seems anachronistic to plant cool season plants in the heat of summer, but you need to look into the future. The seeds will germinate and begin growing under the summer sun but six weeks or two months later when the plants are approaching the point of harvest days and nights will be much cooler. The plants will be at their prime when weather conditions are perfect for them.

Some people suggest that a fall crop actually tastes better than a summer crop of cool season plants. There is valid reasoning behind this. Spring-sown plants are encountering stressful conditions at the point they are ready to harvest. The increasing sun and heat affects their growth and taste (see my article, "When Plants Bolt"). Summer-sown plants are able to direct all of their energy into growth and improved taste because the cooler autumn conditions don't trigger bolting and seed development.

To plant a second garden, for fall harvest, you can use the same plots for the same cool season plants. Your spinach still looks good, but it's past the point of usefulness in the kitchen. Pull it out, throw it in the compost pile, and sow new seeds. If you're letting some of the spinach flowers develop into seeds fully, as I am, sow in rows between the old, straggly plants. When you collect the seeds for next year you can pull out the old plants and add them to your pile. The new seedlings will have room to grow.

Spinach is bolting and turning bitter

I'm still harvesting peas for a little while longer. Some of the plants are finished. I've sown new seeds in the bare spots of vacated plants and in the spaces between the plants still producing. I'll be harvesting a whole new crop of peas in September and probably well into October.

Peas are still producing but there's room for seeds

You can rip out all of your old plants to sow a new planting in a fresh bed, but I think sowing between established plants helps the new seedlings. The hot sun can raise the soil temperature and can stress a young cool season seedling. The established plants act as protective guardians shading and lowering the soil temperature until the new plants can get established.

Either way, the soil needs to be kept moist while the seeds germinate and in summer that may mean extra watering. In spring you can get away with minimal irrigation as seeds develop, but in summer it requires extra effort to ensure the seeds don't dry out at a critical point or that the seedlings don't desiccate in the wind and sun. In return you won't have to water as much in fall because the plants' needs are reduced in the cooler conditions.

Knowing your first frost date is important so you have an idea of how long you have available for the plants to reach maturity and produce a crop. Allow enough time from summer sowing to fall harvest based on your local climate.

Many cool season plants can handle a light freeze so the first frost won't be as devastating for them as for warm season plants like tomatoes and peppers and beans and squash. Broccoli, cauliflower, cilantro, lettuce, peas, spinach, and chard can all shrug off a light frost. Some, like kale, Brussels sprouts, beets, cabbage, and collard greens can survive down to 20F degrees.

You can expect a steady and longer harvest of summer-sown plants. Radishes, carrots, and parsnips can even handle frozen soil. I'm told parsnips actually taste sweeter when allowed to endure freezes into January. That's my harvest plan for this plant new to my garden this year.

With season-extending structures, you can lengthen your fall harvest even more (see my article "Extending Your Growing Season with Mini Greenhouses"). Light frost and even killing freezes can be combated by covering your plants.

So don't despair that so much of your garden has stopped producing and is withering. Use the opportunity to continue gardening well into the cold months of the year. Plant in summer for a fall crop that may provide bounty into winter.

 Link to "Extending Your Growing Season with Mini Greenhouses."

Weeds in the Garden

Weeds are the bane of gardeners. Scarcely a day goes by that I don't pull weeds, most of it unconsciously. When I spot a sprout popping up in a place it shouldn't be as I make my garden rounds, I'll remove it and keep on moving with hardly a second thought. Though individual plants disappear, with time, especially a long time with lots of sun and rain, weeds multiply and can become a major garden problem. That's when they become a real nuisance.

A pepper plant overwhelmed by grass

To begin, a weed is any plant growing in any place you don't want it to grow. Many people think a weed is a wild plant that dominates an area, but to a gardener even beloved plants can be weeds. This season I have removed tomatoes, sunflowers, beans, and lamb's ear from various plots because they sprouted where they didn't belong. This being said, the majority of weeds are plants that offer no benefit to a gardener and are wild in nature.

In an uncultivated area they may pose no issue, but when these plants begin competing with vegetables, flowers, and other garden plants gardeners need to step in and halt the competition. All garden plants pull water and nutrients from the soil and soak up the sun's rays. A weed threatens the water, nutrient, and sun absorption of plants we are trying to grow. Left unchecked the dominant one overwhelms the weaker and too often the dominant plant is a weed.

A weed-free garden will produce stronger fruit, vegetables, and flowers than one that is overrun. I suggest that the amount of time and effort devoted to weeding is proportional to the quality and quantity of a garden's harvest.

Effective weeding begins by identifying which plants are the preferred ones. You have to know what plants you want to keep and what plants are interfering.

Weeds are easy to spot in this bed of leeks

My vegetable and flower beds are as ordered as I can make them. My Daylilies are grouped together so when another plant moves in it's a weed, regardless of what type of plant it is. My tomatoes, beans, spinach, and squash all have specific plots; anything else growing in those plots is a weed. By specifying what grows where, weed identification becomes easy.

Dealing with weeds early is an important factor. Removing them before they produce seeds and become established is critical. A handful of young, unwanted plants can be easily pulled. Dozens and hundreds may require more drastic mechanical or chemical action. Many notorious weeds distribute thousands of seeds from a single plant (15,000 from a dandelion). Eradication can become virtually impossible if a single plant is allowed to propagate.

Use mulch at every opportunity. Mulch reduces weeds by limiting the soil's exposure to the sun, an important component for weed seed germination. The plants that do grow through the mulch are easy to spot and often have a weaker root structure while young; the roots are growing in the mulch and not firmly in the soil.

Small weeds are easy to spot in the mulch

Devote a portion of your gardening activities to weeding. Though I pull weeds every day, this week I dedicated my chores on a "weed day" to systematically move from bed to bed removing every weed. It wasn't terribly difficult because I mulch routinely and pull often. But even I was surprised to find the number of small plants trying to gain a foothold underneath branches and leaves that could only be seen by squatting and pulling aside the leaves.

Learn about the important weeds in your area and which methods can control them. In the U.S., the federal and most state governments have identified invasive and noxious weeds that should be removed when recognized in the landscape. In my area one of them, Myrtle Spurge, has been identified as a noxious weed and is outlawed, but I still see many gardens in town that grow the ornamental plant.

Know what your garden plants should look like at different life stages. Remember what your most common weeds look like when they're young. It doesn't help you when you pull out a small vegetable plant thinking that it's a weed.

Be aware of the difference between annual and perennial weeds. Typically annual weeds will die at the end of the season and will only propagate by seed. Prostrate spurge, crabgrass, and common purslane are annual weeds. Perennial weeds have extensive root systems with deep taproots or rhizomes that send up new shoots each year. Dandelion, quackgrass, and white clover are perennials that aren't easily controlled.

Generally, you can control many annual weeds by just pulling them as I've already mentioned or by tilling or using a hoe. Perennial weeds need to have most or all of the root system dug up to eliminate future plants and can also sprout from seeds, a double threat. Simply pulling the stem and shallow roots of an annual weed should kill it, but doing the same with a perennial may have little effect.

There are weed seeds everywhere. Unless you begin with sterile soil in a covered greenhouse, your soil is likely to have weed seeds in it. Even if it doesn't now, it will as soon as the wind blows. You may have removed every dandelion from your lawn but a single plant in your neighbor's yard will create problems for you when you're downwind. Weeding will always be a part of gardening.

Know that you can create your own weeds. If you allow your flowers to set seed and self-sow, you may have to deal with the plants that result. I enjoy letting my plants fill in bare areas, in beds that they're allowed, but at some point flowers need to be deadheaded to avoid overwhelming nearby plants.

Keep your garden healthy. Proper watering, fertilization, pruning, and soil amendment will help make your plants strong. Robust plants can easily be the dominant ones when weeds try to move in. Filling a bed with healthy plants won't allow weeds the opportunity to establish.

Get in the habit of dealing with weeds one on one. Don't walk by a new weed in your garden without pulling it. Lots of little gestures like that can prevent major activity later.

I'll discuss processes of weeding en masse in another article. I have my favorite methods, as do many dedicated gardeners. This year I'm staying on top of my weeding and have very few problems in my flower and vegetable beds, but that hasn't always been the case. I'll share my weeding dilemmas soon.

Weeds are the bane of gardeners. Scarcely a day goes by that I don't pull weeds, most of it unconsciously. When I spot a sprout popping up in a place it shouldn't be as I make my garden rounds, I'll remove it and keep on moving with hardly a second thought. Though individual plants disappear, with time, especially a long time with lots of sun and rain, weeds multiply and can become a major garden problem. That's when they become a real nuisance.

A pepper plant overwhelmed by grass

To begin, a weed is any plant growing in any place you don't want it to grow. Many people think a weed is a wild plant that dominates an area, but to a gardener even beloved plants can be weeds. This season I have removed tomatoes, sunflowers, beans, and lamb's ear from various plots because they sprouted where they didn't belong. This being said, the majority of weeds are plants that offer no benefit to a gardener and are wild in nature.

In an uncultivated area they may pose no issue, but when these plants begin competing with vegetables, flowers, and other garden plants gardeners need to step in and halt the competition. All garden plants pull water and nutrients from the soil and soak up the sun's rays. A weed threatens the water, nutrient, and sun absorption of plants we are trying to grow. Left unchecked the dominant one overwhelms the weaker and too often the dominant plant is a weed.

A weed-free garden will produce stronger fruit, vegetables, and flowers than one that is overrun. I suggest that the amount of time and effort devoted to weeding is proportional to the quality and quantity of a garden's harvest.

Effective weeding begins by identifying which plants are the preferred ones. You have to know what plants you want to keep and what plants are interfering.

Weeds are easy to spot in this bed of leeks

My vegetable and flower beds are as ordered as I can make them. My Daylilies are grouped together so when another plant moves in it's a weed, regardless of what type of plant it is. My tomatoes, beans, spinach, and squash all have specific plots; anything else growing in those plots is a weed. By specifying what grows where, weed identification becomes easy.

Dealing with weeds early is an important factor. Removing them before they produce seeds and become established is critical. A handful of young, unwanted plants can be easily pulled. Dozens and hundreds may require more drastic mechanical or chemical action. Many notorious weeds distribute thousands of seeds from a single plant (15,000 from a dandelion). Eradication can become virtually impossible if a single plant is allowed to propagate.

Use mulch at every opportunity. Mulch reduces weeds by limiting the soil's exposure to the sun, an important component for weed seed germination. The plants that do grow through the mulch are easy to spot and often have a weaker root structure while young; the roots are growing in the mulch and not firmly in the soil.

Small weeds are easy to spot in the mulch

Devote a portion of your gardening activities to weeding. Though I pull weeds every day, this week I dedicated my chores on a "weed day" to systematically move from bed to bed removing every weed. It wasn't terribly difficult because I mulch routinely and pull often. But even I was surprised to find the number of small plants trying to gain a foothold underneath branches and leaves that could only be seen by squatting and pulling aside the leaves.

Learn about the important weeds in your area and which methods can control them. In the U.S., the federal and most state governments have identified invasive and noxious weeds that should be removed when recognized in the landscape. In my area one of them, Myrtle Spurge, has been identified as a noxious weed and is outlawed, but I still see many gardens in town that grow the ornamental plant.

Know what your garden plants should look like at different life stages. Remember what your most common weeds look like when they're young. It doesn't help you when you pull out a small vegetable plant thinking that it's a weed.

Be aware of the difference between annual and perennial weeds. Typically annual weeds will die at the end of the season and will only propagate by seed. Prostrate spurge, crabgrass, and common purslane are annual weeds. Perennial weeds have extensive root systems with deep taproots or rhizomes that send up new shoots each year. Dandelion, quackgrass, and white clover are perennials that aren't easily controlled.

Generally, you can control many annual weeds by just pulling them as I've already mentioned or by tilling or using a hoe. Perennial weeds need to have most or all of the root system dug up to eliminate future plants and can also sprout from seeds, a double threat. Simply pulling the stem and shallow roots of an annual weed should kill it, but doing the same with a perennial may have little effect.

There are weed seeds everywhere. Unless you begin with sterile soil in a covered greenhouse, your soil is likely to have weed seeds in it. Even if it doesn't now, it will as soon as the wind blows. You may have removed every dandelion from your lawn but a single plant in your neighbor's yard will create problems for you when you're downwind. Weeding will always be a part of gardening.

Know that you can create your own weeds. If you allow your flowers to set seed and self-sow, you may have to deal with the plants that result. I enjoy letting my plants fill in bare areas, in beds that they're allowed, but at some point flowers need to be deadheaded to avoid overwhelming nearby plants.

Keep your garden healthy. Proper watering, fertilization, pruning, and soil amendment will help make your plants strong. Robust plants can easily be the dominant ones when weeds try to move in. Filling a bed with healthy plants won't allow weeds the opportunity to establish.

Get in the habit of dealing with weeds one on one. Don't walk by a new weed in your garden without pulling it. Lots of little gestures like that can prevent major activity later.

I'll discuss processes of weeding en masse in another article. I have my favorite methods, as do many dedicated gardeners. This year I'm staying on top of my weeding and have very few problems in my flower and vegetable beds, but that hasn't always been the case. I'll share my weeding dilemmas soon.

When Plants Bolt

It's that time of the season when the broccoli, lettuce and spinach begin to taste bitter as flower stalks pop up from the middle of the plant. Many herbs, radishes, and cabbage change their profile and send up those annoying shoots. There's very little you can do about it. The plant is bolting.

Bolting is when a plant switches into flower and seed mode. It's most obvious and prevalent in cool season, leafy plants. Lettuce and spinach grow very well when the days are cool and the nights are long. As soil temperature rises and the days grow longer, the plants stop putting energy into growing the sweet leaves and redirect it to flower production. Inevitably the flowers rest atop a coarse stalk and the leaves dry and shrivel.

Rhubarb in full flower

This growth change happens quite abruptly, but always when the conditions for the plant exceed its comfort zone. The reason cool season plants are called that is because they do best in cool conditions. Heat and sun trigger the natural sequence of propagation. Conditions are getting stressful and survival is in question so the plant focuses on creating the next generation of plants, and for leafy vegetables and herbs that means seed production.

If you recognize the change happening, you may be able to delay it slightly. You can pinch off the bolting flower shoots. With herbs like basil, the plant will put energy back into leaf production and the plant will get bushier. With leafy plants like lettuce you may get a few more days of harvest before the bitter taste is noticeable.

Changing the growing conditions can delay bolting. Mulch moderates the soil temperature and will delay bolting. Keeping the soil well watered will reduce soil temperature slightly. Growing cool season plants in areas that get partial shade or covering the bed with shade fabric can delay the inevitable too.

Spinach under shade cloth; the outer plants are bolting, the inner aren't

The only way to prevent bolting is through the timing of planting, but it really doesn't prevent it as much as it assumes you or mother nature will finish off the plant before it bolts. By planting cool season crops in early spring, the "prevention" comes about because you harvest the plant in summer before it bolts; that doesn't always work well in areas with long winters and hot summers.

The better option, that is appropriate now, is to plant cool season plants in late summer. As the plants mature the days are getting shorter and the temperatures are getting cooler. The plant can't possibly bolt because the physical conditions of excessive heat and sun are waning. The plant will grow well, producing delicious leaves until you harvest it or a hard freeze in fall kills it.

For many, especially me, bolting isn't always a bad thing. It can be put to good use if you save seeds. The purpose of bolting is to produce them so I aid the natural cycle by letting it happen. The plant is happy because it has completed its life's journey and I'm happy because I have a bag of seeds to sow next year.

Much of my garden comes from continuing the cycle. Radish, rhubarb, cilantro, dill, and basil are plants I regularly grow exclusively from the seeds of previous generations. They are easy to collect, sow, and grow. I lose out on some of the harvest when the plants bolt, but I'm rewarded with an entire planting the next year. This summer I'll add spinach and lettuce to my list. I'm growing heirloom varieties and look forward to the same plants after next spring's sowing.

Little basil plants from last year's seeds

That is a caveat about saving seeds. If the plant is a hybrid, as many store-bought seeds are, the seeds will not grow true to the parent plant. The cute little hybrid carrot you're growing this season may turn into a gangly, off-color one next time if you save and sow the seeds. Only heirloom seeds will produce the same plant with certainty.

When you buy seeds of cool season plants you can look for ones that are "slow to bolt." If that is the case it will almost always be printed on the seed packet or in the catalog; it's a major selling point for many gardeners.

Bolting doesn't have to be the end of the garden when it happens. Put new plants in the bed, sow more seeds, get a second planting. Take the opportunity to extend your harvest well into fall. Many gardeners think with a one-season mindset, bolting allows you to break out of that model and get two seasons for little additional effort.


 

It's that time of the season when the broccoli, lettuce and spinach begin to taste bitter as flower stalks pop up from the middle of the plant. Many herbs, radishes, and cabbage change their profile and send up those annoying shoots. There's very little you can do about it. The plant is bolting.

Bolting is when a plant switches into flower and seed mode. It's most obvious and prevalent in cool season, leafy plants. Lettuce and spinach grow very well when the days are cool and the nights are long. As soil temperature rises and the days grow longer, the plants stop putting energy into growing the sweet leaves and redirect it to flower production. Inevitably the flowers rest atop a coarse stalk and the leaves dry and shrivel.

Rhubarb in full flower

This growth change happens quite abruptly, but always when the conditions for the plant exceed its comfort zone. The reason cool season plants are called that is because they do best in cool conditions. Heat and sun trigger the natural sequence of propagation. Conditions are getting stressful and survival is in question so the plant focuses on creating the next generation of plants, and for leafy vegetables and herbs that means seed production.

If you recognize the change happening, you may be able to delay it slightly. You can pinch off the bolting flower shoots. With herbs like basil, the plant will put energy back into leaf production and the plant will get bushier. With leafy plants like lettuce you may get a few more days of harvest before the bitter taste is noticeable.

Changing the growing conditions can delay bolting. Mulch moderates the soil temperature and will delay bolting. Keeping the soil well watered will reduce soil temperature slightly. Growing cool season plants in areas that get partial shade or covering the bed with shade fabric can delay the inevitable too.

Spinach under shade cloth; the outer plants are bolting, the inner aren't

The only way to prevent bolting is through the timing of planting, but it really doesn't prevent it as much as it assumes you or mother nature will finish off the plant before it bolts. By planting cool season crops in early spring, the "prevention" comes about because you harvest the plant in summer before it bolts; that doesn't always work well in areas with long winters and hot summers.

The better option, that is appropriate now, is to plant cool season plants in late summer. As the plants mature the days are getting shorter and the temperatures are getting cooler. The plant can't possibly bolt because the physical conditions of excessive heat and sun are waning. The plant will grow well, producing delicious leaves until you harvest it or a hard freeze in fall kills it.

For many, especially me, bolting isn't always a bad thing. It can be put to good use if you save seeds. The purpose of bolting is to produce them so I aid the natural cycle by letting it happen. The plant is happy because it has completed its life's journey and I'm happy because I have a bag of seeds to sow next year.

Much of my garden comes from continuing the cycle. Radish, rhubarb, cilantro, dill, and basil are plants I regularly grow exclusively from the seeds of previous generations. They are easy to collect, sow, and grow. I lose out on some of the harvest when the plants bolt, but I'm rewarded with an entire planting the next year. This summer I'll add spinach and lettuce to my list. I'm growing heirloom varieties and look forward to the same plants after next spring's sowing.

Little basil plants from last year's seeds

That is a caveat about saving seeds. If the plant is a hybrid, as many store-bought seeds are, the seeds will not grow true to the parent plant. The cute little hybrid carrot you're growing this season may turn into a gangly, off-color one next time if you save and sow the seeds. Only heirloom seeds will produce the same plant with certainty.

When you buy seeds of cool season plants you can look for ones that are "slow to bolt." If that is the case it will almost always be printed on the seed packet or in the catalog; it's a major selling point for many gardeners.

Bolting doesn't have to be the end of the garden when it happens. Put new plants in the bed, sow more seeds, get a second planting. Take the opportunity to extend your harvest well into fall. Many gardeners think with a one-season mindset, bolting allows you to break out of that model and get two seasons for little additional effort.


 

Microclimates in Summer

Microclimates are among my favorite gardening subjects. A microclimate is a small area that has a different climate than the larger, surrounding area. In the garden, a microclimate may be located behind a small wall, under a tree, or in the middle of a row. Previously, I've encouraged gardeners to look for microclimates in winter when you can see the effects of snow and sun (see my blog "Look for Microclimates in the Garden"). Paying attention to how plants grow in the summer can also give you a good idea of microclimates at work.

The spot under these Aspens is only shady in summer

Climate refers to weather conditions in a particular area over a long period of time. We often refer to climates as hot, cold, dry, humid, sunny, or windy. Microclimates can have the same descriptors. They just exist on a smaller scale.

Recognizing and understanding the microclimates in your garden can provide you an advantage over your fellow gardeners. Every plant will grow best in a location that has the ideal soil, light, and water that that plant requires. When you can place plants in the best locations that your garden offers, you give them the best chance for success.

Winter allows you to see which areas of your landscape receive the most wind, snow, or sun. You can see how the landscape varies with cold temperatures. Summer gives you the opportunity to observe how plants actually grow in those same spaces. You can observe how temperature and light differences actually affect their growth.

To identify microclimates look for variations in the growth of your plants. If you have a long hedge or line of plants, how do they differ? Do the plants at one end grow better than the ones at the other? You may be observing a microclimate.

This row was sown at the same time, but the southern seeds sprouted first

Do you have a location in your garden where nothing seems to grow? A location that is always wet or always dry? A spot on your lawn that is always brown? Assuming the soil and irrigation are constant between locations, the difference may be due to microclimates.

Many gardeners fight microclimates. They try to force plants to grow in spots that aren't ideal. They assist under-performing plants with extra water, fertilizer, and attention. The reason for the stunting may be due to the climate that exists in that specific, limited location. The plant may be struggling against heat, light, wind, or humidity differences that don't exist just a few feet away.

When you acknowledge that your garden has distinct growth patterns in separate sites, you can take advantage of it. That may mean moving plants. Transplanting from a stress area to a supportive one can make a plant prosper. Choosing to sow and grow appropriate plants for each respective microclimate gives them improved opportunities.

Looking for microclimates in summer may identify errors in planning and planting. When you place your flower bulbs in spring or fall, that garden plot may be in full sun. In the midst of summer that location may now be in shade. Maybe that explains why the flowers don't seem to bloom as they should.

The opposite can hold true. I planted Hostas and Bleeding Hearts one spring in a nice, shady, sheltered garden bed. They didn't do very well. The next summer as the stunted, struggling plants finally succumbed to stress I realized that the seemingly ideal spot in spring was inundated by heat and light in the summer, a situation that wasn't ideal for those plants. I replanted the entire bed with more appropriate sun-loving flowers like Daylilies.

These Hostas are in a shaded area with full sun a few feet away

Microclimates aren't always make or break locations. There are spots in your vegetable garden where parts of a block planting will do better than another, but all of the plants do well enough to produce fruit; some plants are just bigger and better. That's not a problem.

You don't need to overreact when you identify microclimates. The plants may not be at their prime, but if they're doing okay leave them be. When it comes time to modify your beds, take the microclimates into account and then you can change the plants, if you choose.

Look for microclimates in your garden. Some areas like abundant shade or sun are easy to identify. Subtle zones may take more and longer observation. The differences may not be enough to warrant change, but awareness can help you relax a little and help explain why different plants grow differently. Being able to identify the different microclimates in your landscape may not change any of your gardening choices, but knowing about them will make you a more knowledgeable gardener.

Microclimates are among my favorite gardening subjects. A microclimate is a small area that has a different climate than the larger, surrounding area. In the garden, a microclimate may be located behind a small wall, under a tree, or in the middle of a row. Previously, I've encouraged gardeners to look for microclimates in winter when you can see the effects of snow and sun (see my blog "Look for Microclimates in the Garden"). Paying attention to how plants grow in the summer can also give you a good idea of microclimates at work.

The spot under these Aspens is only shady in summer

Climate refers to weather conditions in a particular area over a long period of time. We often refer to climates as hot, cold, dry, humid, sunny, or windy. Microclimates can have the same descriptors. They just exist on a smaller scale.

Recognizing and understanding the microclimates in your garden can provide you an advantage over your fellow gardeners. Every plant will grow best in a location that has the ideal soil, light, and water that that plant requires. When you can place plants in the best locations that your garden offers, you give them the best chance for success.

Winter allows you to see which areas of your landscape receive the most wind, snow, or sun. You can see how the landscape varies with cold temperatures. Summer gives you the opportunity to observe how plants actually grow in those same spaces. You can observe how temperature and light differences actually affect their growth.

To identify microclimates look for variations in the growth of your plants. If you have a long hedge or line of plants, how do they differ? Do the plants at one end grow better than the ones at the other? You may be observing a microclimate.

This row was sown at the same time, but the southern seeds sprouted first

Do you have a location in your garden where nothing seems to grow? A location that is always wet or always dry? A spot on your lawn that is always brown? Assuming the soil and irrigation are constant between locations, the difference may be due to microclimates.

Many gardeners fight microclimates. They try to force plants to grow in spots that aren't ideal. They assist under-performing plants with extra water, fertilizer, and attention. The reason for the stunting may be due to the climate that exists in that specific, limited location. The plant may be struggling against heat, light, wind, or humidity differences that don't exist just a few feet away.

When you acknowledge that your garden has distinct growth patterns in separate sites, you can take advantage of it. That may mean moving plants. Transplanting from a stress area to a supportive one can make a plant prosper. Choosing to sow and grow appropriate plants for each respective microclimate gives them improved opportunities.

Looking for microclimates in summer may identify errors in planning and planting. When you place your flower bulbs in spring or fall, that garden plot may be in full sun. In the midst of summer that location may now be in shade. Maybe that explains why the flowers don't seem to bloom as they should.

The opposite can hold true. I planted Hostas and Bleeding Hearts one spring in a nice, shady, sheltered garden bed. They didn't do very well. The next summer as the stunted, struggling plants finally succumbed to stress I realized that the seemingly ideal spot in spring was inundated by heat and light in the summer, a situation that wasn't ideal for those plants. I replanted the entire bed with more appropriate sun-loving flowers like Daylilies.

These Hostas are in a shaded area with full sun a few feet away

Microclimates aren't always make or break locations. There are spots in your vegetable garden where parts of a block planting will do better than another, but all of the plants do well enough to produce fruit; some plants are just bigger and better. That's not a problem.

You don't need to overreact when you identify microclimates. The plants may not be at their prime, but if they're doing okay leave them be. When it comes time to modify your beds, take the microclimates into account and then you can change the plants, if you choose.

Look for microclimates in your garden. Some areas like abundant shade or sun are easy to identify. Subtle zones may take more and longer observation. The differences may not be enough to warrant change, but awareness can help you relax a little and help explain why different plants grow differently. Being able to identify the different microclimates in your landscape may not change any of your gardening choices, but knowing about them will make you a more knowledgeable gardener.

Trees and Drought

Portions of the United States are struggling from the impact of excessive rain and snow melt as others are dealing with the effects of long-term drought. For the people with houses under water, there may be minor envy of the dry regions, and for those of us living in the parched environs there is a whispered desire to have the worries of too much rain. The extremes of weather make comrades of the victims at each end of the spectrum.

The U.S Drought Monitor tracks the effects of prolonged periods without precipitation and shows the entire southern portion of the United States as suffering from at least "abnormally dry" conditions. Nearly the entire state of Texas is designated as "exceptional" drought, the highest level. Every week brings us new record temperatures. Yesterday Phoenix, Arizona, set a new record high of 118F degrees.

While we perspire and curse the heat, drought stress on plants, particularly trees, can be fatal (see my blog, "The Life of a Tree"). Trees need water to sustain their lives, like every living organism, but they have the ability to survive on energy and moisture reserves stored in their roots. Like camels and their humps, trees can survive fairly well without regular water, but only to a point. For survival, most landscape trees need supplemental water.

My Aspens look okay now, but they're thirsty

That means that you must water your trees when natural precipitation fails to deliver enough life-sustaining moisture. Many people think that occasional rain, even when far below normal, is enough to sustain trees. They remember the television science program where deserts came alive after a single downpour. While some desert plants are able to store vast amounts of moisture for long periods of time, the typical trees we have in our yards need regular irrigation and periodic light rains during a drought aren't enough.

As with most garden plants, begin by checking your soil. Dig random holes a few inches deep under the outermost branches of your trees. If the soil is retaining moisture, if you can form it into a ball that holds its shape, the roots will be able to absorb it and the tree is okay. If you have a soil moisture meter insert it at different levels. If the soil is dry at two inches, at three inches, and deeper, you need to water deeply.

Most tree roots are located in the upper six to 24 inches of soil. The shade tree in your backyard hasn't tapped into a deep water reserve with penetrating roots. It's trying to soak up the moisture in the top few inches of soil. The smaller feeder roots are the ones you encounter when you dig a hole for a new plant and they're the ones seeking water. If you encounter dry soil with a test hole, the tree is encountering the same dry soil.

The solution is deep watering. A tree requires gallons of water and bigger trees need more. Trees obtain water best when it soaks the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches. A general rule is 5 to 10 gallons of water per inch of tree diameter, per watering. A three-inch wide tree needs up to 30 gallons of water. You should water this deeply at least twice a month during drought when no other natural precipitation occurs.

The key difference in the amounts of water required are due to the individual needs of the tree. Some trees are more drought tolerant and can survive with less water, others need more water more often. Most Maple, Hawthorn, Goldenrain Tree, Coffee Tree, Juniper, Pine, and Oak trees can handle dry growing conditions.

How you water is important too. Drip lines next to the trunk don't work well. Watering within the dripline is good, but may not be enough. You have to look at the size of the tree and try to determine where the feeder roots are.

The roots of an established tree extend well past the confines of the branches. Normal root growth extends two to four times the diameter of the tree crown. A tree that is 15 feet wide at the top may have roots throughout a 30- to 60-feet circle. You can expect the root spread to be at least equal to the height of the tree. Under very dry conditions some trees can send roots out 10 times the crown diameter; there might be roots 100 feet away from large trees.

Younger trees have roots much closer to the trunk so watering with a soaker hose curled around it can be effective. Using a deep-root feeder needle attached to a hose, inserted about eight inches deep, may also work on young trees. But neither of these methods can adequately cover the root zone of a large, established tree.

Bigger trees need water throughout the span of their root zone. Oscillating sprinklers and impact rotors can broadcast water over larges areas. Think about the kind of sprinklers you see in parks and golf courses.

You'll need to determine how much water your hose and sprinkler put out. One easy way is to take a bucket and direct the sprinkler spray into it (yes, you'll probably get wet). Time how long it takes to fill the bucket. If a one gallon bucket fills in 30 seconds, then your hose and sprinkler are distributing two gallons per minute. If you use that sprinkler to cover a tree's root zone, you can expect about 30 gallons in 15 minutes.

That's the first part of watering. Soil is always key. You still need to be sure the water is soaking the soil. So after you've moved the sprinkler to a new location, and after you've let any puddles on the surface drain, go back to your test hole and see if water is making it down to the level of the roots. If you find only the top inch or two is wet while it's dry below that, you will need to water for a longer period of time even if the math says you've distributed the appropriate number of gallons. If the soil is wet at six inches it should fine below that.

After you've figured out how much water your sprinkler puts out and how effectively the soil absorbs it, you can set up a schedule of regular watering at two or three week intervals. Much depends on the weather. If you've had no rain, water more often. If thunderstorms and rainstorms start occurring, you may not need supplemental water at all. Check your soil's moisture content to be sure.

Soil is still dry even after a soaking rain last night

Another consideration is the tree's location. If a tree is near a lawn that is on a regular irrigation cycle, the roots on that side of the tree are soaking up moisture under the grass. You should account for that and may only need to do a partial watering on the tree's dry side. Trees surrounded by turf may not need additional water at all, even in drought.

You take the time to water your vegetable garden, your flowers, and your lawn. Remember the trees. A drought can be devastating and with trees you may not see the impact for two or three years. If you wait for stress indications, it will be too late. If it's dry now, water now. Your trees will appreciate it.

Portions of the United States are struggling from the impact of excessive rain and snow melt as others are dealing with the effects of long-term drought. For the people with houses under water, there may be minor envy of the dry regions, and for those of us living in the parched environs there is a whispered desire to have the worries of too much rain. The extremes of weather make comrades of the victims at each end of the spectrum.

The U.S Drought Monitor tracks the effects of prolonged periods without precipitation and shows the entire southern portion of the United States as suffering from at least "abnormally dry" conditions. Nearly the entire state of Texas is designated as "exceptional" drought, the highest level. Every week brings us new record temperatures. Yesterday Phoenix, Arizona, set a new record high of 118F degrees.

While we perspire and curse the heat, drought stress on plants, particularly trees, can be fatal (see my blog, "The Life of a Tree"). Trees need water to sustain their lives, like every living organism, but they have the ability to survive on energy and moisture reserves stored in their roots. Like camels and their humps, trees can survive fairly well without regular water, but only to a point. For survival, most landscape trees need supplemental water.

My Aspens look okay now, but they're thirsty

That means that you must water your trees when natural precipitation fails to deliver enough life-sustaining moisture. Many people think that occasional rain, even when far below normal, is enough to sustain trees. They remember the television science program where deserts came alive after a single downpour. While some desert plants are able to store vast amounts of moisture for long periods of time, the typical trees we have in our yards need regular irrigation and periodic light rains during a drought aren't enough.

As with most garden plants, begin by checking your soil. Dig random holes a few inches deep under the outermost branches of your trees. If the soil is retaining moisture, if you can form it into a ball that holds its shape, the roots will be able to absorb it and the tree is okay. If you have a soil moisture meter insert it at different levels. If the soil is dry at two inches, at three inches, and deeper, you need to water deeply.

Most tree roots are located in the upper six to 24 inches of soil. The shade tree in your backyard hasn't tapped into a deep water reserve with penetrating roots. It's trying to soak up the moisture in the top few inches of soil. The smaller feeder roots are the ones you encounter when you dig a hole for a new plant and they're the ones seeking water. If you encounter dry soil with a test hole, the tree is encountering the same dry soil.

The solution is deep watering. A tree requires gallons of water and bigger trees need more. Trees obtain water best when it soaks the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches. A general rule is 5 to 10 gallons of water per inch of tree diameter, per watering. A three-inch wide tree needs up to 30 gallons of water. You should water this deeply at least twice a month during drought when no other natural precipitation occurs.

The key difference in the amounts of water required are due to the individual needs of the tree. Some trees are more drought tolerant and can survive with less water, others need more water more often. Most Maple, Hawthorn, Goldenrain Tree, Coffee Tree, Juniper, Pine, and Oak trees can handle dry growing conditions.

How you water is important too. Drip lines next to the trunk don't work well. Watering within the dripline is good, but may not be enough. You have to look at the size of the tree and try to determine where the feeder roots are.

The roots of an established tree extend well past the confines of the branches. Normal root growth extends two to four times the diameter of the tree crown. A tree that is 15 feet wide at the top may have roots throughout a 30- to 60-feet circle. You can expect the root spread to be at least equal to the height of the tree. Under very dry conditions some trees can send roots out 10 times the crown diameter; there might be roots 100 feet away from large trees.

Younger trees have roots much closer to the trunk so watering with a soaker hose curled around it can be effective. Using a deep-root feeder needle attached to a hose, inserted about eight inches deep, may also work on young trees. But neither of these methods can adequately cover the root zone of a large, established tree.

Bigger trees need water throughout the span of their root zone. Oscillating sprinklers and impact rotors can broadcast water over larges areas. Think about the kind of sprinklers you see in parks and golf courses.

You'll need to determine how much water your hose and sprinkler put out. One easy way is to take a bucket and direct the sprinkler spray into it (yes, you'll probably get wet). Time how long it takes to fill the bucket. If a one gallon bucket fills in 30 seconds, then your hose and sprinkler are distributing two gallons per minute. If you use that sprinkler to cover a tree's root zone, you can expect about 30 gallons in 15 minutes.

That's the first part of watering. Soil is always key. You still need to be sure the water is soaking the soil. So after you've moved the sprinkler to a new location, and after you've let any puddles on the surface drain, go back to your test hole and see if water is making it down to the level of the roots. If you find only the top inch or two is wet while it's dry below that, you will need to water for a longer period of time even if the math says you've distributed the appropriate number of gallons. If the soil is wet at six inches it should fine below that.

After you've figured out how much water your sprinkler puts out and how effectively the soil absorbs it, you can set up a schedule of regular watering at two or three week intervals. Much depends on the weather. If you've had no rain, water more often. If thunderstorms and rainstorms start occurring, you may not need supplemental water at all. Check your soil's moisture content to be sure.

Soil is still dry even after a soaking rain last night

Another consideration is the tree's location. If a tree is near a lawn that is on a regular irrigation cycle, the roots on that side of the tree are soaking up moisture under the grass. You should account for that and may only need to do a partial watering on the tree's dry side. Trees surrounded by turf may not need additional water at all, even in drought.

You take the time to water your vegetable garden, your flowers, and your lawn. Remember the trees. A drought can be devastating and with trees you may not see the impact for two or three years. If you wait for stress indications, it will be too late. If it's dry now, water now. Your trees will appreciate it.