"Friends are the flowers in the garden of life." That unattributed sentiment is framed and adorns a prime wall location in my cousin Jamie's house. Amid antique photos of bearded ancestors and Christmas decorations small and large, that friendly saying speaks volumes about Jamie and life.
I had the pleasure of sharing Christmas with Jamie and my cousin John, her husband. It's been a number of years since I last visited their historic home in Sonora, California, but it was as though we last said goodbye only a few weeks ago. John and I spent many memorable summers together as we learned to be young men together. I was the best man at their wedding nearly 30 years ago. Since then, and before, they have both sown many seeds of friendship and caring.
Gardening offers many parables and metaphors that help guide us through life. I enjoy growing my fruits and vegetables, but like many gardeners it is the flowers bursting into color that awakens the most vibrant emotions inside me. As with the flowers, when a new or old friend enters my day emotions spring to life. Friends are a necessary and important part of our lives. Jamie's simple metaphor accurately ties together two important aspects of my life.
John and Jamie are home gardeners and have their little plot atop a small, steep hill that overlooks their house. John told me of the great success he had this year with the addition of a new organic soil amendment. Like me they enjoy toiling in the soil and waiting patiently for the results of their labors. Their climate, soil, and plant choices are different than mine, but we all receive pleasure and satisfaction from gardening.
In life we toil and wait patiently for our rewards. We grow. How we choose to treat one another determines our path and that of those around us. When we add nutrients like sincerity, love, and caring to our relationships, we benefit from bigger and more beautiful results. We sow the seeds of friendship and enjoy the flowers that spring forth.
Jamie's wall art touched me, particularly at a time like Christmas. I'm thankful for the friends and family that grow in my garden of life. They add the color that makes it so memorable and satisfying. Like the rest of my gardening adventures, I still have many more plots to plant, many more flowers to grow. I'm looking forward to it.
Grow your garden. Sow your seeds. Enjoy your flowers. Have a good life.
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Monday, December 20, 2010
How To Tell If You Have a Pine, Spruce, or Fir Tree
At this time of year many families are buying or chopping down trees to celebrate Christmas. They know what they like, be it a towering bastion of the forest or a Charlie Brown rescue tree. Like many of the conifers we have in our landscape, people often refer to any tree with needles instead of leaves as a "pine tree". In actuality, many, if not most, of the trees we purchase at Christmas are fir trees.
The National Christmas Tree Association (www.christmastree.org) reports that the number one most popular tree grown and sold in the U.S. is a Fraser Fir. My good friends Della and Roger have a beautiful Fraser Fir decorated in white and silver. The number two tree is a Douglas Fir, the number three tree is a Balsam Fir, and the number four tree is the Colorado Blue Spruce. The first pine tree, a Scotch Pine comes in at number five. Our family favorite, the Noble Fir, just missed the top ten.
Many of us select Christmas trees and landscape trees because we like how they look, not because we like their name. In the process we tend to generalize. I know many people who walk through a forested area or even their own yards and refer to the "pine trees", even when they are clearly (to me) a different type of tree. With a few helpful tips, it's fairly easy to tell them apart.
Much of this information comes from a tree identification class and guide developed by Linda Smith of the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension in El Paso County, Colorado. It was produced for Master Gardeners and isn't readily available to the public, but I'll share some highlights with you now.
Generally speaking, a conifer is a plant with needled foliage that remains on the plant throughout the year -- an "evergreen". If a plant doesn't have flat leaves, its probably a conifer. The needles are the most obvious and easiest way to quickly identify the type of conifer. With training, practice, and a good identification key you'll be able to tell the difference between a Douglas Fir and a White Fir, but my intent is to teach you basics for general recognition.
There are basically three types of conifers based on their foliage or needles. The first type is plants that have individual needles growing on stems; Spruce and Fir trees fall into this category. The second group is plants where the needles grow in bundles; pine trees follow this pattern. The third is plants with overlapping scale-like foliage; Junipers and Arborvitae are in this type.
Spruce and Fir trees look very similar, but with close-up inspection are easy to tell apart. Both have single needles growing from all around a stem, but roll a needle between your fingers and you'll see that Spruce trees have square-shaped needles while Fir trees have flat needles. If you grab a branch, Spruce needles are sharp and Fir needles are blunt, or "friendly" to hold. Take an individual needle and bend it; Spruce needles are stiff and may break while Fir needles are flexible. The needles on a Spruce grow in a spiral around the stem, but Firs tend to grow with all needles pointing up at the sky.
Use this memory aid to identify a Spruce or Fir:
Spruce tree needles are Square, Sharp, Stiff, and grow in a Spiral.
Fir tree needles are Flat, Friendly, Flexible, and grow "fir" the sky.
Pine trees have a completely different needle structure. Pine needles are slender and typically longer than a Spruce or Fir. Most importantly, pine needles grow in bundles of two to five needles connected by a papery sheath at the base. This sheath connects to the stem on a branch and when pulled from the tree remains intact with all of the bundled needles staying together. When the needles in a sheath are compressed together, they form a circular column. Remember that Pines have "plural" needles.
Juniper and Arborvitae look very similar. If the tree has overlapping scale-like foliage with horizontal and vertical foliage sprays, it is a Juniper. If the scale-like foliage grows in vertical and flattened spays, it is an Arborvitae. Junipers tend to have prickly needles while Arborvitae have rounded tips. Juniper does well in many growing conditions and will tolerate dry locations very well; Arborvitae will not tolerate dry, windy conditions. Juniper grows upright like a single-trunk tree or as a spreading shrub; Arborvitae grows tall in a teardrop-shaped, dense form, usually with multiple trunks. The cones of both trees look like berries; Juniper have three to six scales that are fused together in a round ball while Arborvitae have thicker scales that tend to peel back into pointed tips.
That's it. With the basic information above you should be able to give yourself the confidence to correctly identify an evergreen tree. There are a few other conifers like Yew and Larch, but they aren't very common and you should know right off that they aren't pine trees.
With more practice and experience you can identify specific tree types. Pinon Pine, Mugo Pine, and Lodgepole Pine trees all have two needles in a bundle. Pinon Pine needles are medium green, have white stripes along the needle and are 1/2" to 1-3/4" long; Mugo Pine needles are dark green, 1" to 3" long and slightly curved; Lodgepole Pine needles are yellowish-green, 1" to 3" long and sharp and stiff with a slight twist.
Ponderosa Pine grows in bundles of three needles that are 4" to 7" long, sometimes longer. Both Bristlecone and Limber Pine trees have bundles of five needles, but the Bristlecone needles are shorter and clearly identified by the little white spots that cover them. Colorado Spruce needles are 3/4" to 1-1/4" long while Engelmann Spruce needles are only 1/4" to 1/2" long.
The first step in making an easy tree identification is to find out what kind of conifers grow in your area. Ask your local Extension office, nurseries, or tree growers for a listing of local trees. I live in an area forested by Ponderosa Pines. With my eyes closed I can identify trees in our neighborhood as Ponderosa because that's about all that we have so I've started growing Colorado Blue Spruce to break up the monotony. If you know that White Firs don't naturally grow in your area, you aren't likely to confuse them with Douglas Firs.
If you want to go beyond the basic identification I've described, get a tree identification book or online guide. Just like the different needles, conifers have differing cones (only Pine trees have Pine cones). They have different growth patterns and different environmental requirements. By knowing what to look for, you can correctly identify unknown varieties. Next time you walk through a forest, stop and feel the needles. You'll amaze yourself at how easy it is.
The National Christmas Tree Association (www.christmastree.org) reports that the number one most popular tree grown and sold in the U.S. is a Fraser Fir. My good friends Della and Roger have a beautiful Fraser Fir decorated in white and silver. The number two tree is a Douglas Fir, the number three tree is a Balsam Fir, and the number four tree is the Colorado Blue Spruce. The first pine tree, a Scotch Pine comes in at number five. Our family favorite, the Noble Fir, just missed the top ten.
 |
| Our little Noble Fir Christmas tree |
Much of this information comes from a tree identification class and guide developed by Linda Smith of the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension in El Paso County, Colorado. It was produced for Master Gardeners and isn't readily available to the public, but I'll share some highlights with you now.
Generally speaking, a conifer is a plant with needled foliage that remains on the plant throughout the year -- an "evergreen". If a plant doesn't have flat leaves, its probably a conifer. The needles are the most obvious and easiest way to quickly identify the type of conifer. With training, practice, and a good identification key you'll be able to tell the difference between a Douglas Fir and a White Fir, but my intent is to teach you basics for general recognition.
There are basically three types of conifers based on their foliage or needles. The first type is plants that have individual needles growing on stems; Spruce and Fir trees fall into this category. The second group is plants where the needles grow in bundles; pine trees follow this pattern. The third is plants with overlapping scale-like foliage; Junipers and Arborvitae are in this type.
Spruce and Fir trees look very similar, but with close-up inspection are easy to tell apart. Both have single needles growing from all around a stem, but roll a needle between your fingers and you'll see that Spruce trees have square-shaped needles while Fir trees have flat needles. If you grab a branch, Spruce needles are sharp and Fir needles are blunt, or "friendly" to hold. Take an individual needle and bend it; Spruce needles are stiff and may break while Fir needles are flexible. The needles on a Spruce grow in a spiral around the stem, but Firs tend to grow with all needles pointing up at the sky.
Use this memory aid to identify a Spruce or Fir:
Spruce tree needles are Square, Sharp, Stiff, and grow in a Spiral.
Fir tree needles are Flat, Friendly, Flexible, and grow "fir" the sky.
Pine trees have a completely different needle structure. Pine needles are slender and typically longer than a Spruce or Fir. Most importantly, pine needles grow in bundles of two to five needles connected by a papery sheath at the base. This sheath connects to the stem on a branch and when pulled from the tree remains intact with all of the bundled needles staying together. When the needles in a sheath are compressed together, they form a circular column. Remember that Pines have "plural" needles.
 |
| Our old Ponderosa Pine tree in our front drive |
Juniper and Arborvitae look very similar. If the tree has overlapping scale-like foliage with horizontal and vertical foliage sprays, it is a Juniper. If the scale-like foliage grows in vertical and flattened spays, it is an Arborvitae. Junipers tend to have prickly needles while Arborvitae have rounded tips. Juniper does well in many growing conditions and will tolerate dry locations very well; Arborvitae will not tolerate dry, windy conditions. Juniper grows upright like a single-trunk tree or as a spreading shrub; Arborvitae grows tall in a teardrop-shaped, dense form, usually with multiple trunks. The cones of both trees look like berries; Juniper have three to six scales that are fused together in a round ball while Arborvitae have thicker scales that tend to peel back into pointed tips.
That's it. With the basic information above you should be able to give yourself the confidence to correctly identify an evergreen tree. There are a few other conifers like Yew and Larch, but they aren't very common and you should know right off that they aren't pine trees.
With more practice and experience you can identify specific tree types. Pinon Pine, Mugo Pine, and Lodgepole Pine trees all have two needles in a bundle. Pinon Pine needles are medium green, have white stripes along the needle and are 1/2" to 1-3/4" long; Mugo Pine needles are dark green, 1" to 3" long and slightly curved; Lodgepole Pine needles are yellowish-green, 1" to 3" long and sharp and stiff with a slight twist.
Ponderosa Pine grows in bundles of three needles that are 4" to 7" long, sometimes longer. Both Bristlecone and Limber Pine trees have bundles of five needles, but the Bristlecone needles are shorter and clearly identified by the little white spots that cover them. Colorado Spruce needles are 3/4" to 1-1/4" long while Engelmann Spruce needles are only 1/4" to 1/2" long.
The first step in making an easy tree identification is to find out what kind of conifers grow in your area. Ask your local Extension office, nurseries, or tree growers for a listing of local trees. I live in an area forested by Ponderosa Pines. With my eyes closed I can identify trees in our neighborhood as Ponderosa because that's about all that we have so I've started growing Colorado Blue Spruce to break up the monotony. If you know that White Firs don't naturally grow in your area, you aren't likely to confuse them with Douglas Firs.
If you want to go beyond the basic identification I've described, get a tree identification book or online guide. Just like the different needles, conifers have differing cones (only Pine trees have Pine cones). They have different growth patterns and different environmental requirements. By knowing what to look for, you can correctly identify unknown varieties. Next time you walk through a forest, stop and feel the needles. You'll amaze yourself at how easy it is.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
What To Do With Pine Needles
Pine needles are a scourge to many gardeners. While leaves that have fallen from trees can be easily raked up, blown away, or crushed underfoot, pine needles lie in ever-growing mats on the ground and are more difficult to remove. If left in place they choke the life from grass or flowers planted beneath a tree. Leaves can be composted easily while needles seem to take forever to break down. For many gardeners pine needles have a place in the forest, but not in the garden.
I look forward to my annual resupply of pine needles. I think they have a definite place in the garden and offer a great example of how to recycle nature's bounty. My Ponderosa pines play an important role in my landscape.
Pine needles, for my purposes here, are the brown, dried needles that have fallen from pine trees. You may also have heard them referred to as pine straw. Just as deciduous trees drop there leaves in the fall, pines drop a portion of their needles from the innermost sections of branches. Spruce and fir trees will also drop needles, but they tend to be much shorter in length and don't pose nearly as many problems as the longer pine needles. My Ponderosa pine needles are 6-7 inches long.
One of the first negative issues with pine needles is that they're notoriously difficult to remove from your lawn. When you try to rake them, their slender profile causes many of them to slide through the rake's tines and remain where they were. If you try to pick them up barehanded, their sharp points prick your skin. They cling to grass and plants and won't blow away even in the strongest winds.
If left in place, they form a thick barrier that keeps sun, water, and air from reaching plants underneath. That's why you see so many bare areas beneath pine trees. Though needles are slightly acidic, they really don't change the pH of the soil. The reason you have difficulty growing under a big pine is that the tree shades the ground and reduces the amount of moisture that reaches the soil. Add a layer of needles and plants will struggle to survive.
Another negative factor is that they take a long time to decompose. You can add them to your compost pile, but after everything else has broken down and turned into lovely, black compost, the needles will still remain intact. Burning them is rarely an option for many people, so you're left with piles of needles that take up space.
I see all three of these negative aspects as advantages for using pine needles in the garden. Think about areas of your garden where you want a mulch that stays in place and won't blow away. An area where you want to choke out the plants that may grow there. An area that's big and needs to be filled with something that will last a long time.
The first place I use pine needles is on the pathways between my vegetable garden beds. After raking up needles, and raking again and again in the same spot to get as many as possible, I place them in thick layers on my garden paths. Rain, snow, my wheelbarrow, and multiple trips through the garden will compress them into a dense mat that keeps weeds in check. Any weeds that do manage to grow are quickly spotted against the brown background and easily pulled out. Before they're compacted, while still fresh, needles can be slippery when wet so be cautious.
I think they're a near-perfect mulch for my strawberries. They stay in place and keep the fruit dry and off the ground. In sections I use pine needles, my strawberries have fewer fungus and mold problems. I also have fewer issues with slugs; I suspect the sharp tips and rough edges help keep them at bay. When using pine needles as a mulch in the garden it helps to have irrigation in place first. If they're not compacted, the needles will allow water to seep to the ground and the plants, but a soaker hose or drip system in place under the needles works best.
They're also a great mulch for many other areas. Use them alone or with bark as mulch under fruit trees. They don't interfere with perennial plant growth and add a nice color contrast to leafy plants like hostas. The needles don't attract termites and can be used as a mulch in beds directly next to a house.
Individually, I use them as temporary seed markers. In the spring as I plant rows of seeds, I'll use a pine needle bundle to mark where I've already planted. They're already shaped like a stake and are easy to push in the soil. As the new plants grow a few needles don't hinder their progress and will become additional mulch.
They're a cheap and easy way to control erosion in problem areas. I've had sloping sections in my garden where the soil always flowed away in heavy rains. A heavy addition of needles helps keep it all in place. They work their way into the soil when it's wet and create a natural wall that inhibits erosion.
They can also be used, like straw, as a protective blanket during cold months. Cover tender plants or bulbs with a pile of pine needles and you've added a nice insulating barrier to the cold.
Of course there are many other uses. They're easy fire starters for an outdoor fire pit. Birds will pick through your beds for needles to use in nests. They can cushion clay pots from the hard ground. You can even weave baskets with them.
So look upon your needles as a blessing, not a curse. Sure it takes more effort to collect every last one of them, but they really do benefit to the garden. I saved one of the best advantages for last: if you or a friend has a pine tree, they're free. You won't need to spend hard-earned money on store-bought mulch for areas where pine needles will work. How great is that?
(Want more ideas for using pine needles? Check out my update article, "Uses for Pine Needles" on November 30, 2011)
I look forward to my annual resupply of pine needles. I think they have a definite place in the garden and offer a great example of how to recycle nature's bounty. My Ponderosa pines play an important role in my landscape.
 |
| Newly-raked needles |
Pine needles, for my purposes here, are the brown, dried needles that have fallen from pine trees. You may also have heard them referred to as pine straw. Just as deciduous trees drop there leaves in the fall, pines drop a portion of their needles from the innermost sections of branches. Spruce and fir trees will also drop needles, but they tend to be much shorter in length and don't pose nearly as many problems as the longer pine needles. My Ponderosa pine needles are 6-7 inches long.
One of the first negative issues with pine needles is that they're notoriously difficult to remove from your lawn. When you try to rake them, their slender profile causes many of them to slide through the rake's tines and remain where they were. If you try to pick them up barehanded, their sharp points prick your skin. They cling to grass and plants and won't blow away even in the strongest winds.
If left in place, they form a thick barrier that keeps sun, water, and air from reaching plants underneath. That's why you see so many bare areas beneath pine trees. Though needles are slightly acidic, they really don't change the pH of the soil. The reason you have difficulty growing under a big pine is that the tree shades the ground and reduces the amount of moisture that reaches the soil. Add a layer of needles and plants will struggle to survive.
Another negative factor is that they take a long time to decompose. You can add them to your compost pile, but after everything else has broken down and turned into lovely, black compost, the needles will still remain intact. Burning them is rarely an option for many people, so you're left with piles of needles that take up space.
I see all three of these negative aspects as advantages for using pine needles in the garden. Think about areas of your garden where you want a mulch that stays in place and won't blow away. An area where you want to choke out the plants that may grow there. An area that's big and needs to be filled with something that will last a long time.
 |
| The path between my raised beds |
I think they're a near-perfect mulch for my strawberries. They stay in place and keep the fruit dry and off the ground. In sections I use pine needles, my strawberries have fewer fungus and mold problems. I also have fewer issues with slugs; I suspect the sharp tips and rough edges help keep them at bay. When using pine needles as a mulch in the garden it helps to have irrigation in place first. If they're not compacted, the needles will allow water to seep to the ground and the plants, but a soaker hose or drip system in place under the needles works best.
They're also a great mulch for many other areas. Use them alone or with bark as mulch under fruit trees. They don't interfere with perennial plant growth and add a nice color contrast to leafy plants like hostas. The needles don't attract termites and can be used as a mulch in beds directly next to a house.
Individually, I use them as temporary seed markers. In the spring as I plant rows of seeds, I'll use a pine needle bundle to mark where I've already planted. They're already shaped like a stake and are easy to push in the soil. As the new plants grow a few needles don't hinder their progress and will become additional mulch.
 |
| Helping with erosion |
They can also be used, like straw, as a protective blanket during cold months. Cover tender plants or bulbs with a pile of pine needles and you've added a nice insulating barrier to the cold.
Of course there are many other uses. They're easy fire starters for an outdoor fire pit. Birds will pick through your beds for needles to use in nests. They can cushion clay pots from the hard ground. You can even weave baskets with them.
So look upon your needles as a blessing, not a curse. Sure it takes more effort to collect every last one of them, but they really do benefit to the garden. I saved one of the best advantages for last: if you or a friend has a pine tree, they're free. You won't need to spend hard-earned money on store-bought mulch for areas where pine needles will work. How great is that?
(Want more ideas for using pine needles? Check out my update article, "Uses for Pine Needles" on November 30, 2011)
Saturday, December 11, 2010
All I Want for Christmas Is My Two Front Trees
The weather this year is markedly different than last year's. On this date in 2009 we had over a foot of snow on the ground. High temperatures were chillingly low. Snow came and stayed as the thermometer barely wavered above freezing for weeks at a time. This year we're setting records for high temperatures; much of December has been 15 to 20 degrees above normal. Last week we set a new record for the latest day for the first measurable snow. Our precipitation level for the season is 12 inches below normal.
Meteorologists explain the different weather patterns as either La Nina or El Nino. The surface temperature of the Pacific Ocean varies from year to year and affects how weather forms and impacts the Western Hemisphere. During an El Nino winter, our area of the country tends to be colder, with more snowfall; much of the northern United States is drier and warmer. During La Nina, we are warmer and drier while the North is colder and wetter. That's the pattern we're in now. While we're balmy and dry, my stepmother in Washington state is worried about shoveling snow from her driveway, again.
This becomes an issue for gardeners because the wide variation in weather affects us and our plants. El Nino patterns tend to prevail for years at a time and those are the patterns to which we grow accustomed. La Nina happens less often and tends to catch us by surprise.
For areas of the country, like ours, where snowfall is a normal part of winter, we know that the snow adds moisture to the soil and also acts like a protective blanket for many plants that can be damaged by extreme cold. Winter is a time to plan the next year's garden, look through plant catalogs, feed the birds, and let nature take care of itself outside.
When that process is interrupted, our plants can suffer. Even in the coldest months our landscape still requires moisture. With no snow, the soil can dry out, roots will die, and normally hardy plants won't recover from cold temperatures. Warmer temperatures may encourage more freeze-thaw cycles in the soil that can push plants out of the ground. Lower humidity and cold winds desiccate trees and buds.
Though your garden hoses are probably wound up and stored away, it's time to think about watering your garden. You need to add the moisture to the soil that snow normally would. Winter watering for lawns is particularly important. Without it, you'll be rewarded in the spring by big sections of dead, brown grass.
I planted two dwarf Alberta Spruce trees in front of my house months ago. I kept the soil watered to help them gain a footing and then stopped the regular watering as freezing weather arrived. Frozen soil and normal snow would protect them through the winter. That hasn't happened. The soil is relatively warm and dry. It's up to me to help them through the winter by periodic watering. Without my efforts, I can't be assured that they'll survive.
Perennial plants, bushes, and trees don't need a lot of water in cold weather. They're mostly dormant so they're not using the moisture for nutrition and growth. But normal plant processes require water. Think about the Christmas tree you cut down or bought to place in your living room. In the warm, dry environment inside your house, you need to add water to the tree stand almost every day. Even after it's cut, a tree still draws water from its base out to its needles. Without water the tree dries out. That is exactly what is happening to the live trees in your yard if you don't keep the soil watered when there is no snow.
So think about watering your garden. It is best to water when the ground isn't frozen; adding water to frozen ground won't do much good as you just add a layer of ice. Water when the weather warms up, preferably above 40 degrees F, not on a day when the temperature is below freezing. Look at forecasts for a period of days when the temperatures will all be warm. Water at mid-day so the water has a chance to soak into the ground before freezing night temperatures.
Look for areas in your garden that may need watering more often. Plants next to walls, fences, or your house may be warmer because of reflective heating. Those plants will dry out sooner and require more water. Plants in windy, unprotected areas will have similar needs. Newer plants will need more watering than established plants. Late-season transplants will also need more water. If you haven't mulched around the same plants, do so soon. That will help moderate soil moisture levels and temperatures.
You may only need to water one or two times a month for prolonged periods without snow. Check your soil to see if it's frozen or dry. Stick your finger in it. One thorough, soaking watering my be good for weeks. If snow does come you still may need to add water. Light snow doesn't contain much moisture and you can be fooled into thinking it was enough for your plants. After a few days check the soil again.
If you've ever wondered why you lost plants after a dry winter, it may be because they needed water and didn't get it. Look at your garden now. Has it been awhile since a snow? Since you watered? Now that you know, you can be the difference between a robust garden in the spring and one that needs replacement plants after winter die-off.
Meteorologists explain the different weather patterns as either La Nina or El Nino. The surface temperature of the Pacific Ocean varies from year to year and affects how weather forms and impacts the Western Hemisphere. During an El Nino winter, our area of the country tends to be colder, with more snowfall; much of the northern United States is drier and warmer. During La Nina, we are warmer and drier while the North is colder and wetter. That's the pattern we're in now. While we're balmy and dry, my stepmother in Washington state is worried about shoveling snow from her driveway, again.
This becomes an issue for gardeners because the wide variation in weather affects us and our plants. El Nino patterns tend to prevail for years at a time and those are the patterns to which we grow accustomed. La Nina happens less often and tends to catch us by surprise.
For areas of the country, like ours, where snowfall is a normal part of winter, we know that the snow adds moisture to the soil and also acts like a protective blanket for many plants that can be damaged by extreme cold. Winter is a time to plan the next year's garden, look through plant catalogs, feed the birds, and let nature take care of itself outside.
When that process is interrupted, our plants can suffer. Even in the coldest months our landscape still requires moisture. With no snow, the soil can dry out, roots will die, and normally hardy plants won't recover from cold temperatures. Warmer temperatures may encourage more freeze-thaw cycles in the soil that can push plants out of the ground. Lower humidity and cold winds desiccate trees and buds.
Though your garden hoses are probably wound up and stored away, it's time to think about watering your garden. You need to add the moisture to the soil that snow normally would. Winter watering for lawns is particularly important. Without it, you'll be rewarded in the spring by big sections of dead, brown grass.
I planted two dwarf Alberta Spruce trees in front of my house months ago. I kept the soil watered to help them gain a footing and then stopped the regular watering as freezing weather arrived. Frozen soil and normal snow would protect them through the winter. That hasn't happened. The soil is relatively warm and dry. It's up to me to help them through the winter by periodic watering. Without my efforts, I can't be assured that they'll survive.
Perennial plants, bushes, and trees don't need a lot of water in cold weather. They're mostly dormant so they're not using the moisture for nutrition and growth. But normal plant processes require water. Think about the Christmas tree you cut down or bought to place in your living room. In the warm, dry environment inside your house, you need to add water to the tree stand almost every day. Even after it's cut, a tree still draws water from its base out to its needles. Without water the tree dries out. That is exactly what is happening to the live trees in your yard if you don't keep the soil watered when there is no snow.
So think about watering your garden. It is best to water when the ground isn't frozen; adding water to frozen ground won't do much good as you just add a layer of ice. Water when the weather warms up, preferably above 40 degrees F, not on a day when the temperature is below freezing. Look at forecasts for a period of days when the temperatures will all be warm. Water at mid-day so the water has a chance to soak into the ground before freezing night temperatures.
Look for areas in your garden that may need watering more often. Plants next to walls, fences, or your house may be warmer because of reflective heating. Those plants will dry out sooner and require more water. Plants in windy, unprotected areas will have similar needs. Newer plants will need more watering than established plants. Late-season transplants will also need more water. If you haven't mulched around the same plants, do so soon. That will help moderate soil moisture levels and temperatures.
You may only need to water one or two times a month for prolonged periods without snow. Check your soil to see if it's frozen or dry. Stick your finger in it. One thorough, soaking watering my be good for weeks. If snow does come you still may need to add water. Light snow doesn't contain much moisture and you can be fooled into thinking it was enough for your plants. After a few days check the soil again.
If you've ever wondered why you lost plants after a dry winter, it may be because they needed water and didn't get it. Look at your garden now. Has it been awhile since a snow? Since you watered? Now that you know, you can be the difference between a robust garden in the spring and one that needs replacement plants after winter die-off.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Understanding USDA Plant Hardiness Zones
I'm a Zone 4, what are you? Wait a minute, that's what I prefer to be called, officially I'm a Zone 5. Actually, I tend more toward Zone 5A, though occasionally I could be mistaken for Zone 3. Confused yet?
Many of our gardening decisions involve knowing the "zone" of our gardens. The USDA has divided North America into plant hardiness zones based on average annual minimum temperatures. The United States, Canada, and Mexico, are divided into 11 zones with each zone number representing a range of 10 degrees F. The averages were determined by recording the lowest temperatures between 1974 and 1986 (1971-1984 in Mexico). This map below from the National Arboretum shows the color-coded zones.
Zones 2 through 10 are further subdivided into light and dark variations of the same color, representing five-degree spans within the 10-degree zone. The lighter color is the colder half and the darker color is the warmer half. For example, Zone 5 represents average minimum temperatures of -10F to -20F. Zone 5A is -15F to -20F; 5B is -10F to -15F.
Plants are identified and labeled by zone to help match them to appropriate landscapes. The concept is to help identify the probable hardiness and survivability of plants based on temperature and geography. If horticulturists know that a plant will not survive below a certain temperature, it's beneficial for gardeners to avoid planting it if they know they live in an area where temperatures regularly drop below that threshold. It's a great guideline for you to use, but it's not foolproof.
Zone 5 runs through the middle of the United States. It includes my area of Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Iowa, Illinois and over to Pennsylvania. To the west, the Rocky Mountains interrupt the horizontal pattern, but Zone 5 drops into New Mexico and Arizona before swinging back up into Utah, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington. And that's why there's a deficiency in the system.
North America is not the same from one coast to the other. The Eastern United States with relatively flat topography and stable weather patterns differs greatly from the Mountain Southwest and Pacific Coast. You might be surprised to know that Portland, Oregon, Tucson, Arizona, and Shreveport, Louisiana, are all in USDA Zone 8A. Few gardeners would argue that you can grow the same garden in those three areas.
You can find out what zone you fall into at a number of online sites. You can go to the National Arboretum site and look where your city falls on the map. The National Gardening Association offers a zone finder by entering your zip code. The Arbor Day Foundation offers a similar site too.
The USDA Hardiness Zone Map only takes into account the average minimum temperatures of an area. It doesn't look at average high temperatures, average elevation, average rainfall, average days of sun, or any of the other factors critical to gardening success. It's up to you to recognize these differences when selecting plants for your garden.
Also be aware of variations within zones. The color scheme was painted with a fairly broad brush. My Colorado Springs city garden fell squarely within Zone 5B, meaning the average minimum low temperature falls between -10F and -15F. A few years ago I recorded an overnight low of -35F. I lost a number of perennial plants that winter. My new garden northeast of town still falls within Zone 5B, but now I live 1,000 feet higher at 7,500 feet elevation. Local gardeners know that it is more difficult to garden in my new area than in my last. I'm well aware of that too.
If you live on the edge of a zone or at a higher elevation like mine, it's best to default to a colder zone when selecting plants. That's why I prefer to focus on Zone 4 when I can. That takes me and my plants down to an average low of -30F, providing a survival buffer when the temperature occasionally drops to unusual extremes.
Remember that the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones should be used as a guideline in selecting perennial plants, shrubs, and trees. If a plant label lists something like "Zone 4-9", it means the plant is suitable for and should survive in any of those zones. Below the minimum zone and it may not survive the winter, above the zone and it may need colder winter weather to grow and propagate properly (cold stratification; a term I've discussed before). You still need to determine if you have the appropriate soil, sun, and water requirements for the plants.
Understanding what the zones are and how they affect you is an important step in successful gardening. You can always choose plants that don't match your zone as long as you know they may not live past one season. Many of the annuals we plant are perennials when planted in a higher zone. You can also modify your landscape and create microclimates to simulate different zones. I'll talk about that in future blogs.
Being aware of what your zone is officially and what it is actually can make the difference in plant survival. If you don't already know, start tracking the minimum temperatures in your garden to find your own average. That way you avoid the broad brush stroke and garden with more precision.
Many of our gardening decisions involve knowing the "zone" of our gardens. The USDA has divided North America into plant hardiness zones based on average annual minimum temperatures. The United States, Canada, and Mexico, are divided into 11 zones with each zone number representing a range of 10 degrees F. The averages were determined by recording the lowest temperatures between 1974 and 1986 (1971-1984 in Mexico). This map below from the National Arboretum shows the color-coded zones.
Zones 2 through 10 are further subdivided into light and dark variations of the same color, representing five-degree spans within the 10-degree zone. The lighter color is the colder half and the darker color is the warmer half. For example, Zone 5 represents average minimum temperatures of -10F to -20F. Zone 5A is -15F to -20F; 5B is -10F to -15F.
Plants are identified and labeled by zone to help match them to appropriate landscapes. The concept is to help identify the probable hardiness and survivability of plants based on temperature and geography. If horticulturists know that a plant will not survive below a certain temperature, it's beneficial for gardeners to avoid planting it if they know they live in an area where temperatures regularly drop below that threshold. It's a great guideline for you to use, but it's not foolproof.
Zone 5 runs through the middle of the United States. It includes my area of Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Iowa, Illinois and over to Pennsylvania. To the west, the Rocky Mountains interrupt the horizontal pattern, but Zone 5 drops into New Mexico and Arizona before swinging back up into Utah, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington. And that's why there's a deficiency in the system.
North America is not the same from one coast to the other. The Eastern United States with relatively flat topography and stable weather patterns differs greatly from the Mountain Southwest and Pacific Coast. You might be surprised to know that Portland, Oregon, Tucson, Arizona, and Shreveport, Louisiana, are all in USDA Zone 8A. Few gardeners would argue that you can grow the same garden in those three areas.
You can find out what zone you fall into at a number of online sites. You can go to the National Arboretum site and look where your city falls on the map. The National Gardening Association offers a zone finder by entering your zip code. The Arbor Day Foundation offers a similar site too.
The USDA Hardiness Zone Map only takes into account the average minimum temperatures of an area. It doesn't look at average high temperatures, average elevation, average rainfall, average days of sun, or any of the other factors critical to gardening success. It's up to you to recognize these differences when selecting plants for your garden.
Also be aware of variations within zones. The color scheme was painted with a fairly broad brush. My Colorado Springs city garden fell squarely within Zone 5B, meaning the average minimum low temperature falls between -10F and -15F. A few years ago I recorded an overnight low of -35F. I lost a number of perennial plants that winter. My new garden northeast of town still falls within Zone 5B, but now I live 1,000 feet higher at 7,500 feet elevation. Local gardeners know that it is more difficult to garden in my new area than in my last. I'm well aware of that too.
If you live on the edge of a zone or at a higher elevation like mine, it's best to default to a colder zone when selecting plants. That's why I prefer to focus on Zone 4 when I can. That takes me and my plants down to an average low of -30F, providing a survival buffer when the temperature occasionally drops to unusual extremes.
Remember that the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones should be used as a guideline in selecting perennial plants, shrubs, and trees. If a plant label lists something like "Zone 4-9", it means the plant is suitable for and should survive in any of those zones. Below the minimum zone and it may not survive the winter, above the zone and it may need colder winter weather to grow and propagate properly (cold stratification; a term I've discussed before). You still need to determine if you have the appropriate soil, sun, and water requirements for the plants.
Understanding what the zones are and how they affect you is an important step in successful gardening. You can always choose plants that don't match your zone as long as you know they may not live past one season. Many of the annuals we plant are perennials when planted in a higher zone. You can also modify your landscape and create microclimates to simulate different zones. I'll talk about that in future blogs.
Being aware of what your zone is officially and what it is actually can make the difference in plant survival. If you don't already know, start tracking the minimum temperatures in your garden to find your own average. That way you avoid the broad brush stroke and garden with more precision.
Monday, December 6, 2010
The New Catalog Is Here! The New Catalog Is Here!
Spring is just around the corner. A couple days ago I received the first gardening catalog of the new year, and it isn't even the new year yet. They seem to arrive earlier and earlier every year, a little like Christmas items being sold in stores before Halloween. I was mildly surprised to see it in the stack of mail.
It is from one of my favorite nurseries, High Country Gardens. I've had the pleasure of visiting their store in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and have ordered plants from their catalog for years. Their shipping methods are among the best in the industry and I'm always satisfied with their plants. Unlike many online nurseries, they allow you to select the shipping date of your plants to match your plans and the planting zone of your gardens.
Many nurseries assume they know what's best for you. Last year I ordered hundreds of dollars of bulbs from K. Van Bourgondien & Sons, a company that specializes in bulbs of many types. Their website says: "...we will ship at the proper planting time." Though my zip code rests in USDA Zone 5, my gardens are more appropriately Zone 4. The bulbs were in fair condition, but arrived more than a month before the frozen soil could even be worked. Our spring warming was slow in coming and it was almost two months before the new beds were ready. I tried to store them in as stable an area as possible, my garage, but some dried out, some rotted, some sprouted before planting, and some failed to grow after planting. Their definition of "proper planting time" didn't match mine.
Be careful when ordering from a company that assumes what is proper for you. Every garden is different and your experience is most important in determining when the proper time is. There are many gardeners with gardens in an average zone and letting others decide planting times may not be catastrophic, but if you grow in unique areas and micro-climates within your garden you should be the one deciding what is best.
Also, in an effort to entice your purchase, nurseries and plant distributors pull out all of the stops to hook you. High Country Gardens is offering free shipping on orders of $100 or more; that's a savings of about 25%. The catch is that it's only good through January 2, 2011. I called them to confirm that you can still choose your delivery date, but the order needs to be placed very soon. Last year K. Van Bourgondien offered similar savings for orders before mid February. Some of us are already thinking about new plants for next year, but having to make a decision by early January may be too early for many of us.
Some times a good deal makes us act a little too hasty. As they intended, I'm ready to order right away to save some money. It's difficult to interrupt the euphoria of a new gardening catalog by putting the brakes on and deciding to wait, but that is often best.
I'm always encouraging gardeners to plan ahead and think about future plantings. Gardening catalogs are a great tool for getting new ideas and developing new plans. But it can be like shopping in a specialty chocolate shop -- everything looks good and it seems like a good idea to buy one of everything. Resist that impulse.
More catalogs will arrive soon. Lay back in your chair or curl up on the sofa as the temperature drops outside and look through them. Compare prices. Jot down the names of new plants that sound intriguing. Research water, sun, and fertilizer needs of new plants. Draw out your garden on a piece of paper and determine where new plants will go. Only when you have a good idea of what you really need and when you really need them should you place an order.
By taking your time and thinking about your gardening goals you can save money by not making impulse purchases of plants you really don't need. By checking out the shipping policies of a nursery you can save time, money, and dissatisfaction by not receiving plants too early. By knowing the best garden location for a plant, you can improve its likelihood of success.
Make your plant buying decisions educated ones. Will I order plants before January 2nd for delivery in May? Maybe. I know that I have a space specifically laid out for Penstemon and Agastache, plants that High Country Gardens specialize in, but I still have more research to do to select the best plants. If I can do that in time to benefit from promotional savings I'll take advantage of it. If not, I'll wait. There will always be more catalogs with more bargains.
It is from one of my favorite nurseries, High Country Gardens. I've had the pleasure of visiting their store in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and have ordered plants from their catalog for years. Their shipping methods are among the best in the industry and I'm always satisfied with their plants. Unlike many online nurseries, they allow you to select the shipping date of your plants to match your plans and the planting zone of your gardens.
Many nurseries assume they know what's best for you. Last year I ordered hundreds of dollars of bulbs from K. Van Bourgondien & Sons, a company that specializes in bulbs of many types. Their website says: "...we will ship at the proper planting time." Though my zip code rests in USDA Zone 5, my gardens are more appropriately Zone 4. The bulbs were in fair condition, but arrived more than a month before the frozen soil could even be worked. Our spring warming was slow in coming and it was almost two months before the new beds were ready. I tried to store them in as stable an area as possible, my garage, but some dried out, some rotted, some sprouted before planting, and some failed to grow after planting. Their definition of "proper planting time" didn't match mine.
Be careful when ordering from a company that assumes what is proper for you. Every garden is different and your experience is most important in determining when the proper time is. There are many gardeners with gardens in an average zone and letting others decide planting times may not be catastrophic, but if you grow in unique areas and micro-climates within your garden you should be the one deciding what is best.
Also, in an effort to entice your purchase, nurseries and plant distributors pull out all of the stops to hook you. High Country Gardens is offering free shipping on orders of $100 or more; that's a savings of about 25%. The catch is that it's only good through January 2, 2011. I called them to confirm that you can still choose your delivery date, but the order needs to be placed very soon. Last year K. Van Bourgondien offered similar savings for orders before mid February. Some of us are already thinking about new plants for next year, but having to make a decision by early January may be too early for many of us.
Some times a good deal makes us act a little too hasty. As they intended, I'm ready to order right away to save some money. It's difficult to interrupt the euphoria of a new gardening catalog by putting the brakes on and deciding to wait, but that is often best.
I'm always encouraging gardeners to plan ahead and think about future plantings. Gardening catalogs are a great tool for getting new ideas and developing new plans. But it can be like shopping in a specialty chocolate shop -- everything looks good and it seems like a good idea to buy one of everything. Resist that impulse.
More catalogs will arrive soon. Lay back in your chair or curl up on the sofa as the temperature drops outside and look through them. Compare prices. Jot down the names of new plants that sound intriguing. Research water, sun, and fertilizer needs of new plants. Draw out your garden on a piece of paper and determine where new plants will go. Only when you have a good idea of what you really need and when you really need them should you place an order.
By taking your time and thinking about your gardening goals you can save money by not making impulse purchases of plants you really don't need. By checking out the shipping policies of a nursery you can save time, money, and dissatisfaction by not receiving plants too early. By knowing the best garden location for a plant, you can improve its likelihood of success.
Make your plant buying decisions educated ones. Will I order plants before January 2nd for delivery in May? Maybe. I know that I have a space specifically laid out for Penstemon and Agastache, plants that High Country Gardens specialize in, but I still have more research to do to select the best plants. If I can do that in time to benefit from promotional savings I'll take advantage of it. If not, I'll wait. There will always be more catalogs with more bargains.
Thursday, December 2, 2010
Sow Seeds In Winter
Yes, you can sow seeds in the winter. You've put your gardening tools away, cleaned up your beds, and started thinking about spring planting. You're waiting to see what gifts you receive for the holidays before you get serious about planning new projects. We're still a few weeks away from receiving new seed and plant catalogs and you were going to wait for those before getting serious about gardening again. But there are still activities you can do outside and preparing new plants is a quick and easy one.
For a little background, think about what's happening in nature right now. Cold weather has set in and killed plants or caused them to go dormant. Flowers dried up leaving behind seeds or pods. As winter progresses, wind and snow bruise and batter the plants and the seeds fall to the ground. The seeds rest lightly on the soil, fill nooks and crannies, and mix with dried leaves in every corner of your yard. Winter snow and early spring rain force the seeds into the ground, fill the crevices with new organic material, and mat down the leaves into a thin layer of organics. As the weather warms in a few months, the seeds will germinate and begin to send small roots into the ground as the new plants spring to life.
You can intervene and modify nature's actions for your own benefit. Instead of anticipating or relying upon a haphazard process of self-sowing, you determine where the new plants will sprout.
Late fall or winter sowing by you works best with plants that reproduce naturally. It also works best with fall bloomers that just recently set seed. Think about perennials like aster, foxgloves, hollyhock, echinacea, lupine, or phlox, and annuals like cosmos, bachelor buttons, delphinium, gaillardia, marigold, poppies, sunflowers, or lupine. There are many more examples, of course.
Most of these plants require cold stratification of their seeds. Many seeds, particularly perennials, require a period of cold and moisture before they can germinate; cold stratification is this period of cold and moist conditions. You may have read or heard about simulating this process by putting seeds in wet paper towels, sand, or peat moss and keeping them in your refrigerator for a few months before you plant in spring. I suggest the best conditions for continual success in your garden is to actually use the weather conditions in your garden.
Begin by collecting your seeds. Snip your hollyhock pods into a paper bag, pluck your marigold flowers and place them on a newspaper, scrape sunflower seeds into a clean jar. Separate the dried petals, pod skins and other debris from the seeds. If you're ready to sow you can take the seeds right back outside; if not, place them in an envelope, bag, or jar until you are.
Preparation of the soil and garden bed isn't as much work as typical spring planting. It's as simple as broadcasting the seeds by hand on top of the soil in the area you want your new plants to grow. You will need to clear out excessive mulch, piles of leaves, and large plant debris from the planting space, but once the seeds are on top of the soil nature will take care of the rest. This is about as natural and organic as you can get when determining where plants grow in your garden.
You are at the mercy of other natural forces however. Birds may still swoop in to feed on the seeds. Mice may too. Too wet a spot and they may rot. Not enough moisture and they may blow away. For these reasons and others you'll want to sow many more seeds than you want; you can always thin out the plants if too many sprout. Sowing in a sheltered area may help reduce loss through birds and wind.
For more control, you can follow these same procedures and sow in pots placed outside. Put the pots in an area where they'll receive snowfall and sun. In pots, it's okay to sprinkle a very light layer of sand or potting soil over the seeds just to keep them in place, but avoid covering them like spring-planted seeds. This also allows you do modify the watering profile to help ensure the seeds don't dry out at the critical germination point in spring.
For special fun, especially with children, wait until you have a heavy snow in the heart of winter and throw the dark seeds in patterns on top of the snow. When the plants have rooted and are growing strong in spring you can remember the day you planted them.
Winter sowing is easy, fun and allows you to maintain a presence in your garden at the time of year you need a gardening boost the most. Though the science of cold stratification and germination are the basis of success, there is an art to how you pick the seeds, the area, and the specific broadcast method. If you haven't tried it before, think about it as something new to experiment with. And let me know how it goes.
For a little background, think about what's happening in nature right now. Cold weather has set in and killed plants or caused them to go dormant. Flowers dried up leaving behind seeds or pods. As winter progresses, wind and snow bruise and batter the plants and the seeds fall to the ground. The seeds rest lightly on the soil, fill nooks and crannies, and mix with dried leaves in every corner of your yard. Winter snow and early spring rain force the seeds into the ground, fill the crevices with new organic material, and mat down the leaves into a thin layer of organics. As the weather warms in a few months, the seeds will germinate and begin to send small roots into the ground as the new plants spring to life.
You can intervene and modify nature's actions for your own benefit. Instead of anticipating or relying upon a haphazard process of self-sowing, you determine where the new plants will sprout.
Late fall or winter sowing by you works best with plants that reproduce naturally. It also works best with fall bloomers that just recently set seed. Think about perennials like aster, foxgloves, hollyhock, echinacea, lupine, or phlox, and annuals like cosmos, bachelor buttons, delphinium, gaillardia, marigold, poppies, sunflowers, or lupine. There are many more examples, of course.
Most of these plants require cold stratification of their seeds. Many seeds, particularly perennials, require a period of cold and moisture before they can germinate; cold stratification is this period of cold and moist conditions. You may have read or heard about simulating this process by putting seeds in wet paper towels, sand, or peat moss and keeping them in your refrigerator for a few months before you plant in spring. I suggest the best conditions for continual success in your garden is to actually use the weather conditions in your garden.
Begin by collecting your seeds. Snip your hollyhock pods into a paper bag, pluck your marigold flowers and place them on a newspaper, scrape sunflower seeds into a clean jar. Separate the dried petals, pod skins and other debris from the seeds. If you're ready to sow you can take the seeds right back outside; if not, place them in an envelope, bag, or jar until you are.
Preparation of the soil and garden bed isn't as much work as typical spring planting. It's as simple as broadcasting the seeds by hand on top of the soil in the area you want your new plants to grow. You will need to clear out excessive mulch, piles of leaves, and large plant debris from the planting space, but once the seeds are on top of the soil nature will take care of the rest. This is about as natural and organic as you can get when determining where plants grow in your garden.
You are at the mercy of other natural forces however. Birds may still swoop in to feed on the seeds. Mice may too. Too wet a spot and they may rot. Not enough moisture and they may blow away. For these reasons and others you'll want to sow many more seeds than you want; you can always thin out the plants if too many sprout. Sowing in a sheltered area may help reduce loss through birds and wind.
For more control, you can follow these same procedures and sow in pots placed outside. Put the pots in an area where they'll receive snowfall and sun. In pots, it's okay to sprinkle a very light layer of sand or potting soil over the seeds just to keep them in place, but avoid covering them like spring-planted seeds. This also allows you do modify the watering profile to help ensure the seeds don't dry out at the critical germination point in spring.
For special fun, especially with children, wait until you have a heavy snow in the heart of winter and throw the dark seeds in patterns on top of the snow. When the plants have rooted and are growing strong in spring you can remember the day you planted them.
Winter sowing is easy, fun and allows you to maintain a presence in your garden at the time of year you need a gardening boost the most. Though the science of cold stratification and germination are the basis of success, there is an art to how you pick the seeds, the area, and the specific broadcast method. If you haven't tried it before, think about it as something new to experiment with. And let me know how it goes.
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