Wildfire Mitigation for Homes

The enormous power of wildfires can be devastating. While much of the Rocky Mountain region confronts an historic fire season, tragic lessons are being learned. Many of us living in urban neighborhoods used to think we were safe when grasslands and forests burned near us, but the firestorm that engulfed West Colorado Springs proved those assumptions wrong.

Crack fire crews were ready, air tankers had dropped tons of fire retardant slurry, national experts put a good defensive plan in place, and sudden, erratic, unanticipated 65 mile per hour winds made all of that irrelevant. Entire neighborhoods were erased in minutes. A firestorm overwhelmed all preparations and incinerated hundreds of houses. These weren't houses sitting solitary in a forest. They were homes sitting side by side along wide streets with sidewalks, playgrounds, and fenced backyards.

I was in Colorado Springs the afternoon of June 26, 2012, and felt sickened by the sight of flames cresting the ridge line that was perceived by all of us as a critical border between the city and the threat beyond. I wasn't overly worried because I knew the fire crews were ready based on the many updates we were following on the news channels. Upon arriving home, 20 miles east of the danger, I told my wife the fire was worse. It was a sorrowful understatement.

The best-trained, professional, defensive fire teams in the world can be defeated when Mother Nature adds enormous destructive energy to an already devastating force of nature, but those events aren't common. The Colorado Springs fire is being described by career firefighters as"epic", with growth patterns and expansive actions previously unseen.

This tragedy has many of us reviewing our own homes and neighborhoods with an eye toward the threat of fire. The idea of "wildfire mitigation" was previously unknown or ignored by many homeowners, but now is the discussion topic at the dinner table.

A wildfire is an uncontrolled burning of grasslands and woodlands, or prairies and forests. The large majority of urban settings are still safe from wildfires, but houses and neighborhoods that border zones of bone-dry vegetation should be aware of practices to reduce the fire threat. Wildfire mitigation for a homeowner involves taking actions to lessen or eliminate the potential damage from a wildfire.

A primary factor in determining a home's ability to survive a wildfire is the "defensible space" around it. This defensible space is the area of vegetation around a building that can either hinder or fuel a fire. Gardeners are uniquely qualified in determining the appropriateness of such vegetation.

A house is more likely to resist a wildfire if overgrown grass, dried brush, and overhanging trees are thinned or removed from the immediate vicinity of the building. With no or little fuel, a wildfire's progress can be slowed when it approaches.

Extending a clear space around a structure provides firefighters room to work as they fight flames, keeping a structure fire or a wildfire from moving to other structures or to surrounding woodlands. Giving the trained defenders a defensible space can make the difference between success and failure.

When viewing the area around your home and analyzing the defensible space, think horizontally and vertically. The horizontal space runs across the ground and encompasses low vegetation that could be potential fire fuel. The vertical space runs from the ground to the top of bushes and trees that might ignite. Vegetation that provides both high horizontal and vertical fuel potential poses the biggest threat; thick stands of brush and tightly-packed trees can be hazardous.

Mitigation of wildfire for homes involves disrupting the natural continuity of these horizontal and vertical fuel sources. Thinning large shrubs and trees so there is at least 10 feet between crowns reduces the potential of wildfire moving from one plant to another. Removing low branches and smaller plants under a tree removes these "ladder fuels" that can transform a low, grass fire into a high, tree fire.

A few years ago I was fortunate to receive forestry training as part of our Master Gardener program. It included education on wildfire mitigation and creating defensible zones around houses. I garden using many of those concepts. I've worked to prune lower branches off trees near the house to a height of about 10 feet. I don't plant shrubs near trees. I keep the grass within 100 feet of the house no higher than six inches. Dead trees and branches are removed quickly. No logs or wood are stored within five feet of the house and nothing is stored under the deck.

Even with my education and awareness a wildfire mitigation analysis shows deficiencies and potential hazard zones in my landscape. I was aware of some of them, overlooked others, and discovered new concerns.

My gardening activities focused on my backyard. Many earlier problems with potential wildfire fuels were corrected. It now offers a substantial defensive space and is maintained well. Little needs to be done there.

Good defensible space in the back

The front of the house has the road and gravel driveway as fire barriers and the old Ponderosa Pine is pruned up to about 15 feet; it is not threatened by a slow-moving, low fire. But there are Aspens and shrubs that abut the exterior walls. They are thick and not pruned as well as they should be. We like the way they look but in a wildfire situation they pose a danger to our home. This is the first place in our landscape where a decision needs to be made between aesthetics and safety. It's difficult sacrificing landscape plants, but it may be necessary to mitigate fire danger.

Obvious fire mitigation concerns

A similar situation exists on the north side of our house. Open pasture leads to the lawn, a thick stand of Aspens grows about 20 feet from the structure, overgrown bushes rest against the house, and a lone Ponderosa Pine rises within 10 feet of the deck and house. Though the lower branches are removed, the tree poses a serious threat. If it were to catch fire from a wind-blown ember, it threatens both the wood deck and the house. It is now a priority for removal.

Close growth is the biggest issue

The worst situation is on the south side. Our neighbor's thick brush and numerous trees flow into a space filled with pine trees on our property that grow right up to the house. Their branches intermingle. There is nothing to stop flames from spreading between them and to our roof.

No defensible space and obstructed mitigation zones

The first defensible zone around a house should extend at least 15 feet around it. All flammable vegetation should be removed from this zone for maximum fire mitigation. The second zone extends to at least 75 feet. Within this zone the continuity and arrangement of vegetation should be adjusted to reduce fuel potential. The south side of my home breaks all the rules of creating a wildfire-defensible space.

Many people move to the country or into the forest because they enjoy the scenery and wish to be engulfed by the plants and trees. No one expects that their home will be annihilated by a wildfire. We are now confronted by this obvious possibility.

In the early days of the Waldo Canyon fire as it threatened Colorado Springs, news crews and commentators highlighted the structures that remained immune to the widening fire lines. These homes were in the heart of the forest but they had obvious tree-free zones extending well beyond their walls. The grasses caught fire as the onslought approached but they were easy to extinguish. These homeowners who practiced serious wildfire mitigation practices saw their houses spared.

Creating defensible zones as part of wildfire mitigation works. It needs to exist on a large scale to be most effective. And an entire neighborhood needs to be involved. You can do what you can to reduce fire threat in your landscape but a neighbor's recklessness can still spell disaster.

I'm working with our homeowner's association, of which I'm a board member, to address this issue in our community. Already we're discussing plans for teams to help neighbors remove dead trees and brush if they're not able to do it on their own.

Many fire stations offer help in fire mitigation. If they have the resources they'll be happy to examine your landscape and identify problems. Believe me, it is beneficial for them to have defensible space around the homes they protect.

Mother Nature always has the last word. Even the best-defended home can be lost in a firestorm, as we saw this week. In a typical wildfire, wise mitigation practices can prevent loss. Educating yourself becomes critical when confronted by sustained drought as much of the U.S. is facing. High winds  and catastrophic low humidity increase danger. When the fire approaches it is too late to prepare your landscape. Think and act in advance to protect your home.

For more information read these fact sheets from Colorado State University:

Creating Wildfire-Defensible Zones, no. 6.302
Fire-Resistant Landscaping, no. 6.303
Forest Home Fire Safety, no 6.304
Firewise Plant Materials, no. 6.305

The enormous power of wildfires can be devastating. While much of the Rocky Mountain region confronts an historic fire season, tragic lessons are being learned. Many of us living in urban neighborhoods used to think we were safe when grasslands and forests burned near us, but the firestorm that engulfed West Colorado Springs proved those assumptions wrong.

Crack fire crews were ready, air tankers had dropped tons of fire retardant slurry, national experts put a good defensive plan in place, and sudden, erratic, unanticipated 65 mile per hour winds made all of that irrelevant. Entire neighborhoods were erased in minutes. A firestorm overwhelmed all preparations and incinerated hundreds of houses. These weren't houses sitting solitary in a forest. They were homes sitting side by side along wide streets with sidewalks, playgrounds, and fenced backyards.

I was in Colorado Springs the afternoon of June 26, 2012, and felt sickened by the sight of flames cresting the ridge line that was perceived by all of us as a critical border between the city and the threat beyond. I wasn't overly worried because I knew the fire crews were ready based on the many updates we were following on the news channels. Upon arriving home, 20 miles east of the danger, I told my wife the fire was worse. It was a sorrowful understatement.

The best-trained, professional, defensive fire teams in the world can be defeated when Mother Nature adds enormous destructive energy to an already devastating force of nature, but those events aren't common. The Colorado Springs fire is being described by career firefighters as"epic", with growth patterns and expansive actions previously unseen.

This tragedy has many of us reviewing our own homes and neighborhoods with an eye toward the threat of fire. The idea of "wildfire mitigation" was previously unknown or ignored by many homeowners, but now is the discussion topic at the dinner table.

A wildfire is an uncontrolled burning of grasslands and woodlands, or prairies and forests. The large majority of urban settings are still safe from wildfires, but houses and neighborhoods that border zones of bone-dry vegetation should be aware of practices to reduce the fire threat. Wildfire mitigation for a homeowner involves taking actions to lessen or eliminate the potential damage from a wildfire.

A primary factor in determining a home's ability to survive a wildfire is the "defensible space" around it. This defensible space is the area of vegetation around a building that can either hinder or fuel a fire. Gardeners are uniquely qualified in determining the appropriateness of such vegetation.

A house is more likely to resist a wildfire if overgrown grass, dried brush, and overhanging trees are thinned or removed from the immediate vicinity of the building. With no or little fuel, a wildfire's progress can be slowed when it approaches.

Extending a clear space around a structure provides firefighters room to work as they fight flames, keeping a structure fire or a wildfire from moving to other structures or to surrounding woodlands. Giving the trained defenders a defensible space can make the difference between success and failure.

When viewing the area around your home and analyzing the defensible space, think horizontally and vertically. The horizontal space runs across the ground and encompasses low vegetation that could be potential fire fuel. The vertical space runs from the ground to the top of bushes and trees that might ignite. Vegetation that provides both high horizontal and vertical fuel potential poses the biggest threat; thick stands of brush and tightly-packed trees can be hazardous.

Mitigation of wildfire for homes involves disrupting the natural continuity of these horizontal and vertical fuel sources. Thinning large shrubs and trees so there is at least 10 feet between crowns reduces the potential of wildfire moving from one plant to another. Removing low branches and smaller plants under a tree removes these "ladder fuels" that can transform a low, grass fire into a high, tree fire.

A few years ago I was fortunate to receive forestry training as part of our Master Gardener program. It included education on wildfire mitigation and creating defensible zones around houses. I garden using many of those concepts. I've worked to prune lower branches off trees near the house to a height of about 10 feet. I don't plant shrubs near trees. I keep the grass within 100 feet of the house no higher than six inches. Dead trees and branches are removed quickly. No logs or wood are stored within five feet of the house and nothing is stored under the deck.

Even with my education and awareness a wildfire mitigation analysis shows deficiencies and potential hazard zones in my landscape. I was aware of some of them, overlooked others, and discovered new concerns.

My gardening activities focused on my backyard. Many earlier problems with potential wildfire fuels were corrected. It now offers a substantial defensive space and is maintained well. Little needs to be done there.

Good defensible space in the back

The front of the house has the road and gravel driveway as fire barriers and the old Ponderosa Pine is pruned up to about 15 feet; it is not threatened by a slow-moving, low fire. But there are Aspens and shrubs that abut the exterior walls. They are thick and not pruned as well as they should be. We like the way they look but in a wildfire situation they pose a danger to our home. This is the first place in our landscape where a decision needs to be made between aesthetics and safety. It's difficult sacrificing landscape plants, but it may be necessary to mitigate fire danger.

Obvious fire mitigation concerns

A similar situation exists on the north side of our house. Open pasture leads to the lawn, a thick stand of Aspens grows about 20 feet from the structure, overgrown bushes rest against the house, and a lone Ponderosa Pine rises within 10 feet of the deck and house. Though the lower branches are removed, the tree poses a serious threat. If it were to catch fire from a wind-blown ember, it threatens both the wood deck and the house. It is now a priority for removal.

Close growth is the biggest issue

The worst situation is on the south side. Our neighbor's thick brush and numerous trees flow into a space filled with pine trees on our property that grow right up to the house. Their branches intermingle. There is nothing to stop flames from spreading between them and to our roof.

No defensible space and obstructed mitigation zones

The first defensible zone around a house should extend at least 15 feet around it. All flammable vegetation should be removed from this zone for maximum fire mitigation. The second zone extends to at least 75 feet. Within this zone the continuity and arrangement of vegetation should be adjusted to reduce fuel potential. The south side of my home breaks all the rules of creating a wildfire-defensible space.

Many people move to the country or into the forest because they enjoy the scenery and wish to be engulfed by the plants and trees. No one expects that their home will be annihilated by a wildfire. We are now confronted by this obvious possibility.

In the early days of the Waldo Canyon fire as it threatened Colorado Springs, news crews and commentators highlighted the structures that remained immune to the widening fire lines. These homes were in the heart of the forest but they had obvious tree-free zones extending well beyond their walls. The grasses caught fire as the onslought approached but they were easy to extinguish. These homeowners who practiced serious wildfire mitigation practices saw their houses spared.

Creating defensible zones as part of wildfire mitigation works. It needs to exist on a large scale to be most effective. And an entire neighborhood needs to be involved. You can do what you can to reduce fire threat in your landscape but a neighbor's recklessness can still spell disaster.

I'm working with our homeowner's association, of which I'm a board member, to address this issue in our community. Already we're discussing plans for teams to help neighbors remove dead trees and brush if they're not able to do it on their own.

Many fire stations offer help in fire mitigation. If they have the resources they'll be happy to examine your landscape and identify problems. Believe me, it is beneficial for them to have defensible space around the homes they protect.

Mother Nature always has the last word. Even the best-defended home can be lost in a firestorm, as we saw this week. In a typical wildfire, wise mitigation practices can prevent loss. Educating yourself becomes critical when confronted by sustained drought as much of the U.S. is facing. High winds  and catastrophic low humidity increase danger. When the fire approaches it is too late to prepare your landscape. Think and act in advance to protect your home.

For more information read these fact sheets from Colorado State University:

Creating Wildfire-Defensible Zones, no. 6.302
Fire-Resistant Landscaping, no. 6.303
Forest Home Fire Safety, no 6.304
Firewise Plant Materials, no. 6.305

Pruning Fruit Trees in the Home Garden

Late winter and early spring are the best times of year to prune fruit trees. Pruning before spring bud break allows the tree to send energy and growth to the branches that you choose with selective pruning. If you wait until the tree is actively growing you waste some of the tree's energy resources and increase the chance of harmful pests and disease invading through the wounds that pruning creates.

Fruit trees in the home garden grow best when they are pruned and trained while young. Proper pruning results in a stronger, healthier tree with the potential for more and bigger fruit. When done correctly, older trees will need almost no pruning as they produce an abundance of fruit in later years.

A dwarf apple tree in the garden

Many trees that gardeners purchase arrive as bare-root "whips" with few or no side branches. These small, spindly specimens resemble a stick with just a few roots at a twisted base to identify it as a tree. After planting according to appropriate instructions, prune the top of the whip about three feet (one meter) above the soil line. Make your pruning cut about 1/4 inch (.6 centimeters) above an obvious bud. This helps to promote growth of new branches in the first year.

If you plant a container-grown tree, try to keep as many branches as possible in the first year. Only cut off twigs and branches that are obviously dead or broken. Even weak and small branches will produce leaves that will help increase root development.

In the second year, after becoming established, you can begin to remove branches to help the tree achieve maximum growth. The idea is to train your tree by keeping branches that are strong, healthy, and well-spaced for even growth. Remove branches that are interfering with others, that are broken, and that are poorly or unevenly spaced.

Both of these branches obviously need pruning

Look for multiple branches that are all emerging from the same spot on the trunk. If left to grow they will create a weak point. By removing all but one or maybe two of these branches you are increasing the tree's structure and strength.

The multiple branches on the lower left will create future problems

Look for branches that emerge from the trunk at a sharp angle; the ones that are growing nearly vertically, close to the trunk. These branches will grow into weak limbs that can break easily in later years. You want to remove them and keep the other branches that angle out evenly.

In the second year I'll keep extra branches on some whips, even if they aren't perfectly spaced. If you remove too many branches too soon, you affect root development and that results in a weaker tree.

In the third year continue removing the interfering and multiple branches. Remove weak and broken ones. You'll probably begin seeing "suckers", the branches that emerge close to the base of the tree at ground level. Prune all the suckers. They have no benefit and will rob the tree of nutrients.

These suckers have to go

The third year is also when you can usually begin to develop the shape of your future fruit tree. It's important to remember that branches never grow up with the tree. A branch that is two feet above the soil will always be two feet above the soil. If you want a tree with a nice spot for climbing or sitting, anticipate the appropriate height and prune accordingly.

My fruit trees are at this point and I've pruned off many of the lower branches. They are beginning to look like trees and I'm beginning to visualize where I want the base branches to be in the future. With my harsh winters I don't want to get too aggressive too early in the life of the tree. I'll keep options available by keeping branches unpruned three and four feet high. I know the branches below that aren't needed so they can go.

My apple tree is cleaned up and ready for spring

For all pruning cuts I look for the bark ridge and branch collar. When you look closely where the branch grows out from the trunk you'll see wrinkled bark at the top of the crotch; that's the bark ridge. The base of the branch is broader and more bulbous, almost like shoulders; that's the collar. Cuts should be just outside the collar, not cutting into either the bark ridge or collar. The cut will be at an angle to the vertical trunk. That allows the tree trunk to grow around the cut, sealing it and protecting the tree from future damage or disease.

Cutting just outside the branch collar

Never make a flush cut, right against the trunk. It may look look like it's right and is recommended by some arborists and "experts", but it can severely impact the tree. The cells that grow into a protective barrier are located in the branch collar. If you cut into the collar or through it, the tree can't grow properly to seal the cut. You've created a wound that is open to disease organisms and to insect pests.

You don't need wound dressing either. When pruned correctly, the cut will begin healing soon. Applying paint or dressing offers no benefit and can aid disease organisms by giving them protective cover. Just leave the the cut alone to heal naturally.

Remember one of the primary reasons for pruning in late winter or early spring is to reduce the chance that harmful organisms are present. As soon as the tree springs to life with warming weather, pruning cuts will begin to heal along with the new green growth.

By focusing on correct pruning when fruit trees are young you save yourself effort and worry compared to when the trees are older. It's much easier to remove a branch that is only half an inch (1.3 centimeters) thick than it is to deal with it when it is four inches (10 cm) wide. If you allow weak branches to grow, they can break under the weight of heavy fruit or snow, possibly endangering the life if the entire tree.

Once you begin to regularly prune, it becomes a quick activity. Major sculpting and forming of the tree's shape is done early when branches are small and easy to cut. Each subsequent year you only need to remove branches that are broken, dying, or have a problem. For half a dozen fruit trees the yearly pruning can be completed in about an hour.

I look forward to my annual pruning. Throughout the year I observe how the trees are growing and try to visualize their future shape. When they are dormant, with leaves gone, I can accurately see which branches will best suit the desired growth and prune accordingly. With each new season's growth I analyze and critique my decision and modify the next year's pruning as needed.

A healthy and well-shaped fruit tree will enhance any home garden. It just takes a little effort and foresight to give you a strong chance of success.

For more information about pruning trees, particularly older trees, see my article "Trees Like Prunes."

Late winter and early spring are the best times of year to prune fruit trees. Pruning before spring bud break allows the tree to send energy and growth to the branches that you choose with selective pruning. If you wait until the tree is actively growing you waste some of the tree's energy resources and increase the chance of harmful pests and disease invading through the wounds that pruning creates.

Fruit trees in the home garden grow best when they are pruned and trained while young. Proper pruning results in a stronger, healthier tree with the potential for more and bigger fruit. When done correctly, older trees will need almost no pruning as they produce an abundance of fruit in later years.

A dwarf apple tree in the garden

Many trees that gardeners purchase arrive as bare-root "whips" with few or no side branches. These small, spindly specimens resemble a stick with just a few roots at a twisted base to identify it as a tree. After planting according to appropriate instructions, prune the top of the whip about three feet (one meter) above the soil line. Make your pruning cut about 1/4 inch (.6 centimeters) above an obvious bud. This helps to promote growth of new branches in the first year.

If you plant a container-grown tree, try to keep as many branches as possible in the first year. Only cut off twigs and branches that are obviously dead or broken. Even weak and small branches will produce leaves that will help increase root development.

In the second year, after becoming established, you can begin to remove branches to help the tree achieve maximum growth. The idea is to train your tree by keeping branches that are strong, healthy, and well-spaced for even growth. Remove branches that are interfering with others, that are broken, and that are poorly or unevenly spaced.

Both of these branches obviously need pruning

Look for multiple branches that are all emerging from the same spot on the trunk. If left to grow they will create a weak point. By removing all but one or maybe two of these branches you are increasing the tree's structure and strength.

The multiple branches on the lower left will create future problems

Look for branches that emerge from the trunk at a sharp angle; the ones that are growing nearly vertically, close to the trunk. These branches will grow into weak limbs that can break easily in later years. You want to remove them and keep the other branches that angle out evenly.

In the second year I'll keep extra branches on some whips, even if they aren't perfectly spaced. If you remove too many branches too soon, you affect root development and that results in a weaker tree.

In the third year continue removing the interfering and multiple branches. Remove weak and broken ones. You'll probably begin seeing "suckers", the branches that emerge close to the base of the tree at ground level. Prune all the suckers. They have no benefit and will rob the tree of nutrients.

These suckers have to go

The third year is also when you can usually begin to develop the shape of your future fruit tree. It's important to remember that branches never grow up with the tree. A branch that is two feet above the soil will always be two feet above the soil. If you want a tree with a nice spot for climbing or sitting, anticipate the appropriate height and prune accordingly.

My fruit trees are at this point and I've pruned off many of the lower branches. They are beginning to look like trees and I'm beginning to visualize where I want the base branches to be in the future. With my harsh winters I don't want to get too aggressive too early in the life of the tree. I'll keep options available by keeping branches unpruned three and four feet high. I know the branches below that aren't needed so they can go.

My apple tree is cleaned up and ready for spring

For all pruning cuts I look for the bark ridge and branch collar. When you look closely where the branch grows out from the trunk you'll see wrinkled bark at the top of the crotch; that's the bark ridge. The base of the branch is broader and more bulbous, almost like shoulders; that's the collar. Cuts should be just outside the collar, not cutting into either the bark ridge or collar. The cut will be at an angle to the vertical trunk. That allows the tree trunk to grow around the cut, sealing it and protecting the tree from future damage or disease.

Cutting just outside the branch collar

Never make a flush cut, right against the trunk. It may look look like it's right and is recommended by some arborists and "experts", but it can severely impact the tree. The cells that grow into a protective barrier are located in the branch collar. If you cut into the collar or through it, the tree can't grow properly to seal the cut. You've created a wound that is open to disease organisms and to insect pests.

You don't need wound dressing either. When pruned correctly, the cut will begin healing soon. Applying paint or dressing offers no benefit and can aid disease organisms by giving them protective cover. Just leave the the cut alone to heal naturally.

Remember one of the primary reasons for pruning in late winter or early spring is to reduce the chance that harmful organisms are present. As soon as the tree springs to life with warming weather, pruning cuts will begin to heal along with the new green growth.

By focusing on correct pruning when fruit trees are young you save yourself effort and worry compared to when the trees are older. It's much easier to remove a branch that is only half an inch (1.3 centimeters) thick than it is to deal with it when it is four inches (10 cm) wide. If you allow weak branches to grow, they can break under the weight of heavy fruit or snow, possibly endangering the life if the entire tree.

Once you begin to regularly prune, it becomes a quick activity. Major sculpting and forming of the tree's shape is done early when branches are small and easy to cut. Each subsequent year you only need to remove branches that are broken, dying, or have a problem. For half a dozen fruit trees the yearly pruning can be completed in about an hour.

I look forward to my annual pruning. Throughout the year I observe how the trees are growing and try to visualize their future shape. When they are dormant, with leaves gone, I can accurately see which branches will best suit the desired growth and prune accordingly. With each new season's growth I analyze and critique my decision and modify the next year's pruning as needed.

A healthy and well-shaped fruit tree will enhance any home garden. It just takes a little effort and foresight to give you a strong chance of success.

For more information about pruning trees, particularly older trees, see my article "Trees Like Prunes."

Trees and Drought

Portions of the United States are struggling from the impact of excessive rain and snow melt as others are dealing with the effects of long-term drought. For the people with houses under water, there may be minor envy of the dry regions, and for those of us living in the parched environs there is a whispered desire to have the worries of too much rain. The extremes of weather make comrades of the victims at each end of the spectrum.

The U.S Drought Monitor tracks the effects of prolonged periods without precipitation and shows the entire southern portion of the United States as suffering from at least "abnormally dry" conditions. Nearly the entire state of Texas is designated as "exceptional" drought, the highest level. Every week brings us new record temperatures. Yesterday Phoenix, Arizona, set a new record high of 118F degrees.

While we perspire and curse the heat, drought stress on plants, particularly trees, can be fatal (see my blog, "The Life of a Tree"). Trees need water to sustain their lives, like every living organism, but they have the ability to survive on energy and moisture reserves stored in their roots. Like camels and their humps, trees can survive fairly well without regular water, but only to a point. For survival, most landscape trees need supplemental water.

My Aspens look okay now, but they're thirsty

That means that you must water your trees when natural precipitation fails to deliver enough life-sustaining moisture. Many people think that occasional rain, even when far below normal, is enough to sustain trees. They remember the television science program where deserts came alive after a single downpour. While some desert plants are able to store vast amounts of moisture for long periods of time, the typical trees we have in our yards need regular irrigation and periodic light rains during a drought aren't enough.

As with most garden plants, begin by checking your soil. Dig random holes a few inches deep under the outermost branches of your trees. If the soil is retaining moisture, if you can form it into a ball that holds its shape, the roots will be able to absorb it and the tree is okay. If you have a soil moisture meter insert it at different levels. If the soil is dry at two inches, at three inches, and deeper, you need to water deeply.

Most tree roots are located in the upper six to 24 inches of soil. The shade tree in your backyard hasn't tapped into a deep water reserve with penetrating roots. It's trying to soak up the moisture in the top few inches of soil. The smaller feeder roots are the ones you encounter when you dig a hole for a new plant and they're the ones seeking water. If you encounter dry soil with a test hole, the tree is encountering the same dry soil.

The solution is deep watering. A tree requires gallons of water and bigger trees need more. Trees obtain water best when it soaks the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches. A general rule is 5 to 10 gallons of water per inch of tree diameter, per watering. A three-inch wide tree needs up to 30 gallons of water. You should water this deeply at least twice a month during drought when no other natural precipitation occurs.

The key difference in the amounts of water required are due to the individual needs of the tree. Some trees are more drought tolerant and can survive with less water, others need more water more often. Most Maple, Hawthorn, Goldenrain Tree, Coffee Tree, Juniper, Pine, and Oak trees can handle dry growing conditions.

How you water is important too. Drip lines next to the trunk don't work well. Watering within the dripline is good, but may not be enough. You have to look at the size of the tree and try to determine where the feeder roots are.

The roots of an established tree extend well past the confines of the branches. Normal root growth extends two to four times the diameter of the tree crown. A tree that is 15 feet wide at the top may have roots throughout a 30- to 60-feet circle. You can expect the root spread to be at least equal to the height of the tree. Under very dry conditions some trees can send roots out 10 times the crown diameter; there might be roots 100 feet away from large trees.

Younger trees have roots much closer to the trunk so watering with a soaker hose curled around it can be effective. Using a deep-root feeder needle attached to a hose, inserted about eight inches deep, may also work on young trees. But neither of these methods can adequately cover the root zone of a large, established tree.

Bigger trees need water throughout the span of their root zone. Oscillating sprinklers and impact rotors can broadcast water over larges areas. Think about the kind of sprinklers you see in parks and golf courses.

You'll need to determine how much water your hose and sprinkler put out. One easy way is to take a bucket and direct the sprinkler spray into it (yes, you'll probably get wet). Time how long it takes to fill the bucket. If a one gallon bucket fills in 30 seconds, then your hose and sprinkler are distributing two gallons per minute. If you use that sprinkler to cover a tree's root zone, you can expect about 30 gallons in 15 minutes.

That's the first part of watering. Soil is always key. You still need to be sure the water is soaking the soil. So after you've moved the sprinkler to a new location, and after you've let any puddles on the surface drain, go back to your test hole and see if water is making it down to the level of the roots. If you find only the top inch or two is wet while it's dry below that, you will need to water for a longer period of time even if the math says you've distributed the appropriate number of gallons. If the soil is wet at six inches it should fine below that.

After you've figured out how much water your sprinkler puts out and how effectively the soil absorbs it, you can set up a schedule of regular watering at two or three week intervals. Much depends on the weather. If you've had no rain, water more often. If thunderstorms and rainstorms start occurring, you may not need supplemental water at all. Check your soil's moisture content to be sure.

Soil is still dry even after a soaking rain last night

Another consideration is the tree's location. If a tree is near a lawn that is on a regular irrigation cycle, the roots on that side of the tree are soaking up moisture under the grass. You should account for that and may only need to do a partial watering on the tree's dry side. Trees surrounded by turf may not need additional water at all, even in drought.

You take the time to water your vegetable garden, your flowers, and your lawn. Remember the trees. A drought can be devastating and with trees you may not see the impact for two or three years. If you wait for stress indications, it will be too late. If it's dry now, water now. Your trees will appreciate it.

Portions of the United States are struggling from the impact of excessive rain and snow melt as others are dealing with the effects of long-term drought. For the people with houses under water, there may be minor envy of the dry regions, and for those of us living in the parched environs there is a whispered desire to have the worries of too much rain. The extremes of weather make comrades of the victims at each end of the spectrum.

The U.S Drought Monitor tracks the effects of prolonged periods without precipitation and shows the entire southern portion of the United States as suffering from at least "abnormally dry" conditions. Nearly the entire state of Texas is designated as "exceptional" drought, the highest level. Every week brings us new record temperatures. Yesterday Phoenix, Arizona, set a new record high of 118F degrees.

While we perspire and curse the heat, drought stress on plants, particularly trees, can be fatal (see my blog, "The Life of a Tree"). Trees need water to sustain their lives, like every living organism, but they have the ability to survive on energy and moisture reserves stored in their roots. Like camels and their humps, trees can survive fairly well without regular water, but only to a point. For survival, most landscape trees need supplemental water.

My Aspens look okay now, but they're thirsty

That means that you must water your trees when natural precipitation fails to deliver enough life-sustaining moisture. Many people think that occasional rain, even when far below normal, is enough to sustain trees. They remember the television science program where deserts came alive after a single downpour. While some desert plants are able to store vast amounts of moisture for long periods of time, the typical trees we have in our yards need regular irrigation and periodic light rains during a drought aren't enough.

As with most garden plants, begin by checking your soil. Dig random holes a few inches deep under the outermost branches of your trees. If the soil is retaining moisture, if you can form it into a ball that holds its shape, the roots will be able to absorb it and the tree is okay. If you have a soil moisture meter insert it at different levels. If the soil is dry at two inches, at three inches, and deeper, you need to water deeply.

Most tree roots are located in the upper six to 24 inches of soil. The shade tree in your backyard hasn't tapped into a deep water reserve with penetrating roots. It's trying to soak up the moisture in the top few inches of soil. The smaller feeder roots are the ones you encounter when you dig a hole for a new plant and they're the ones seeking water. If you encounter dry soil with a test hole, the tree is encountering the same dry soil.

The solution is deep watering. A tree requires gallons of water and bigger trees need more. Trees obtain water best when it soaks the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches. A general rule is 5 to 10 gallons of water per inch of tree diameter, per watering. A three-inch wide tree needs up to 30 gallons of water. You should water this deeply at least twice a month during drought when no other natural precipitation occurs.

The key difference in the amounts of water required are due to the individual needs of the tree. Some trees are more drought tolerant and can survive with less water, others need more water more often. Most Maple, Hawthorn, Goldenrain Tree, Coffee Tree, Juniper, Pine, and Oak trees can handle dry growing conditions.

How you water is important too. Drip lines next to the trunk don't work well. Watering within the dripline is good, but may not be enough. You have to look at the size of the tree and try to determine where the feeder roots are.

The roots of an established tree extend well past the confines of the branches. Normal root growth extends two to four times the diameter of the tree crown. A tree that is 15 feet wide at the top may have roots throughout a 30- to 60-feet circle. You can expect the root spread to be at least equal to the height of the tree. Under very dry conditions some trees can send roots out 10 times the crown diameter; there might be roots 100 feet away from large trees.

Younger trees have roots much closer to the trunk so watering with a soaker hose curled around it can be effective. Using a deep-root feeder needle attached to a hose, inserted about eight inches deep, may also work on young trees. But neither of these methods can adequately cover the root zone of a large, established tree.

Bigger trees need water throughout the span of their root zone. Oscillating sprinklers and impact rotors can broadcast water over larges areas. Think about the kind of sprinklers you see in parks and golf courses.

You'll need to determine how much water your hose and sprinkler put out. One easy way is to take a bucket and direct the sprinkler spray into it (yes, you'll probably get wet). Time how long it takes to fill the bucket. If a one gallon bucket fills in 30 seconds, then your hose and sprinkler are distributing two gallons per minute. If you use that sprinkler to cover a tree's root zone, you can expect about 30 gallons in 15 minutes.

That's the first part of watering. Soil is always key. You still need to be sure the water is soaking the soil. So after you've moved the sprinkler to a new location, and after you've let any puddles on the surface drain, go back to your test hole and see if water is making it down to the level of the roots. If you find only the top inch or two is wet while it's dry below that, you will need to water for a longer period of time even if the math says you've distributed the appropriate number of gallons. If the soil is wet at six inches it should fine below that.

After you've figured out how much water your sprinkler puts out and how effectively the soil absorbs it, you can set up a schedule of regular watering at two or three week intervals. Much depends on the weather. If you've had no rain, water more often. If thunderstorms and rainstorms start occurring, you may not need supplemental water at all. Check your soil's moisture content to be sure.

Soil is still dry even after a soaking rain last night

Another consideration is the tree's location. If a tree is near a lawn that is on a regular irrigation cycle, the roots on that side of the tree are soaking up moisture under the grass. You should account for that and may only need to do a partial watering on the tree's dry side. Trees surrounded by turf may not need additional water at all, even in drought.

You take the time to water your vegetable garden, your flowers, and your lawn. Remember the trees. A drought can be devastating and with trees you may not see the impact for two or three years. If you wait for stress indications, it will be too late. If it's dry now, water now. Your trees will appreciate it.

Wildfires Devastate More Than Trees

As I write this, the largest wildfire in Arizona history has burned more than 800 square miles. It is one of three major fires roaring through that state and nearby New Mexico. Crews are expected to contain one of them soon, a 350 square mile fire, but only because the fuel is gone. Entire forests have been destroyed and there's nothing left to burn.

Nine years ago Colorado experienced its worst fire in state history, the Hayman fire. It burned 138,000 acres over 20 days, destroyed 132 homes, and led to the death of six people.

My wife and I camped last weekend near the northern edge of that fire's legacy. The site along Buffalo Creek is nestled under massive Ponderosa pine trees in the heart of Pike National Forest. We enjoyed a quick hike to join the Colorado Trail, watching squirrels and chipmunks scamper among the rocks, bushes, and trees. Our young Yellow Lab Lily eagerly ran beside us as we enjoyed all that nature bestowed. Friends joined us for dinner and it became an enchanting evening under the stars with the wind blowing through the trees encouraging the towering branches to dance and sway.

The following morning my wife thumbed through our favorite campground guide for a new location to try on our next excursion. We've camped at Buffalo Campground before, and enjoy it, but are always eager to find fresh and rewarding camping experiences. She found a likely candidate in Goose Creek. It wasn't much of a diversion on our trip home so we decided to check it out.

Exiting the state highway, we traveled 11 miles on a dirt and gravel road. Eleven miles through forest that the Hayman fire hadn't spared. I use the term forest only because it is technically still part of the Pike National Forest, though it doesn't exist as a forest in the conventional sense. I could call it a forest of arboreal grave markers or a forest of blackened spires, but that is too poetic.

A portion of the Hayman fire burn area

There is nothing poetic about the devastation we witnessed for those 11 miles. We'd commented to each other about the fire on every previous trip into Pike Forest; you could see endless burned trees from the main state highway. But this journey into the heart of the destruction was gut wrenching. Thinking about it generates a physical reaction again.

Charred stumps still remain along the narrow, washboard road. I tried to imagine how this trek would differ a decade earlier. In places the road wasn't wide enough for two vehicles and the long branches from ancient trees on either side must have touched to form an evergreen canopy. The cool of the forest on hot summer days must have made this a marvelous place. The beauty would have been breathtaking, as it is in so many spots in Colorado.

But all of that is gone. The campground stands as an oasis in the desert of blackened stumps. Closed for years because of concerns about flooding, it is open again. The flooding concerns were because of the Hayman fire. With the trees and brush gone there was nothing to slow the rush of rain as it built to torrents that collected fire debris and rushed through the mountain valleys. Minimal growth of a few grasses and sparse groundcover must be enough to alleviate those fears now.

The historic fire miraculously spared this campground of only ten campsites, nestled among living trees along a stone-filled creek. Inside the campground we were surrounded by green, the murmur of the cascading water, life, and typical Colorado beauty, but it doesn't extend beyond this minuscule enclave. We stopped to investigate and talk with the verbose campground host. After commenting on his duties, the beauty of the site, and ignorant campers, the conversation naturally turned to fire, the fires of today and the great fire of nine years ago. It was unavoidable.

You might be able to ignore spinach in the teeth, a nervous tic, or a bad haircut when conversing with a new acquaintance, but there is no ignoring wildfire devastation. Eleven miles of depressing visions that extend to each horizon is too much to disregard.

The camp host had just come from cleaning up a site with a smoldering fire pit. When he shoveled the ashes into his plastic bucket they melted the bottom. I could only shake my head and cringe in shock. These uneducated, lazy, or criminally negligent campers left without completely dousing their fire. The Hayman fire began with a burning piece of paper in a fire ring at an official campground. The only upside might be that if their negligence were to start a new fire it would only burn this campground; there's nothing left to burn outside it. But I don't consider that much of a positive point.

Our area of the state is under severe outdoor fire restrictions. The county just south of these two campgrounds has banned all outdoor fire to include cigarettes. Lack of rain, exceptionally dry grass, and high winds seem to be the daily rule. Colorado Springs has received only 15 percent of the precipitation we should have for the month; our yearly total is a third of normal. Everyone talks about the weather.

You might think that people, particularly campers, would be extra vigilant during times like these. That is true for many, but there are always the few who flaunt disdain for the restrictions. The road to Buffalo Campground was lined with campers who didn't want to pay to stay in the official campground and who burned open fires in violation of a ban. That campground host told me the sheriff was making regular rounds up and down the road handing out $500 tickets.

Bans, obvious devastation a few miles down the road, and expensive citations aren't enough to influence some of the population. If a legal fire is left smoldering, I have to wonder if an illegal one amid the expanding trash piles that line our forest thoroughfares is properly extinguished.

Accidentally starting a wildfire, like every other ignorant act, is something that always happens to the other guy. As our country dries to a crisp I think about how many "other guys" are playing Russian roulette with the future of our national forests by disregarding campfire etiquette.

I'll be long gone before the land that encompasses the Hayman fire burn area and the new ones in Arizona ever recover. Those are places I'll never be able to take my grandchildren to enjoy the beauty of nature. We enjoy Buffalo Creek and many other Colorado campgrounds now, but wonder how long they will stay viable and how soon it may be that we experience an epic fire again. My wife and I are doing what we can by limiting fires, burning only in designated fire rings, and ensuring the fire is out, completely, before abandoning it. By taking such actions I'd like to think I'm in the overwhelming majority, but I don't have a good feeling about that.


 

As I write this, the largest wildfire in Arizona history has burned more than 800 square miles. It is one of three major fires roaring through that state and nearby New Mexico. Crews are expected to contain one of them soon, a 350 square mile fire, but only because the fuel is gone. Entire forests have been destroyed and there's nothing left to burn.

Nine years ago Colorado experienced its worst fire in state history, the Hayman fire. It burned 138,000 acres over 20 days, destroyed 132 homes, and led to the death of six people.

My wife and I camped last weekend near the northern edge of that fire's legacy. The site along Buffalo Creek is nestled under massive Ponderosa pine trees in the heart of Pike National Forest. We enjoyed a quick hike to join the Colorado Trail, watching squirrels and chipmunks scamper among the rocks, bushes, and trees. Our young Yellow Lab Lily eagerly ran beside us as we enjoyed all that nature bestowed. Friends joined us for dinner and it became an enchanting evening under the stars with the wind blowing through the trees encouraging the towering branches to dance and sway.

The following morning my wife thumbed through our favorite campground guide for a new location to try on our next excursion. We've camped at Buffalo Campground before, and enjoy it, but are always eager to find fresh and rewarding camping experiences. She found a likely candidate in Goose Creek. It wasn't much of a diversion on our trip home so we decided to check it out.

Exiting the state highway, we traveled 11 miles on a dirt and gravel road. Eleven miles through forest that the Hayman fire hadn't spared. I use the term forest only because it is technically still part of the Pike National Forest, though it doesn't exist as a forest in the conventional sense. I could call it a forest of arboreal grave markers or a forest of blackened spires, but that is too poetic.

A portion of the Hayman fire burn area

There is nothing poetic about the devastation we witnessed for those 11 miles. We'd commented to each other about the fire on every previous trip into Pike Forest; you could see endless burned trees from the main state highway. But this journey into the heart of the destruction was gut wrenching. Thinking about it generates a physical reaction again.

Charred stumps still remain along the narrow, washboard road. I tried to imagine how this trek would differ a decade earlier. In places the road wasn't wide enough for two vehicles and the long branches from ancient trees on either side must have touched to form an evergreen canopy. The cool of the forest on hot summer days must have made this a marvelous place. The beauty would have been breathtaking, as it is in so many spots in Colorado.

But all of that is gone. The campground stands as an oasis in the desert of blackened stumps. Closed for years because of concerns about flooding, it is open again. The flooding concerns were because of the Hayman fire. With the trees and brush gone there was nothing to slow the rush of rain as it built to torrents that collected fire debris and rushed through the mountain valleys. Minimal growth of a few grasses and sparse groundcover must be enough to alleviate those fears now.

The historic fire miraculously spared this campground of only ten campsites, nestled among living trees along a stone-filled creek. Inside the campground we were surrounded by green, the murmur of the cascading water, life, and typical Colorado beauty, but it doesn't extend beyond this minuscule enclave. We stopped to investigate and talk with the verbose campground host. After commenting on his duties, the beauty of the site, and ignorant campers, the conversation naturally turned to fire, the fires of today and the great fire of nine years ago. It was unavoidable.

You might be able to ignore spinach in the teeth, a nervous tic, or a bad haircut when conversing with a new acquaintance, but there is no ignoring wildfire devastation. Eleven miles of depressing visions that extend to each horizon is too much to disregard.

The camp host had just come from cleaning up a site with a smoldering fire pit. When he shoveled the ashes into his plastic bucket they melted the bottom. I could only shake my head and cringe in shock. These uneducated, lazy, or criminally negligent campers left without completely dousing their fire. The Hayman fire began with a burning piece of paper in a fire ring at an official campground. The only upside might be that if their negligence were to start a new fire it would only burn this campground; there's nothing left to burn outside it. But I don't consider that much of a positive point.

Our area of the state is under severe outdoor fire restrictions. The county just south of these two campgrounds has banned all outdoor fire to include cigarettes. Lack of rain, exceptionally dry grass, and high winds seem to be the daily rule. Colorado Springs has received only 15 percent of the precipitation we should have for the month; our yearly total is a third of normal. Everyone talks about the weather.

You might think that people, particularly campers, would be extra vigilant during times like these. That is true for many, but there are always the few who flaunt disdain for the restrictions. The road to Buffalo Campground was lined with campers who didn't want to pay to stay in the official campground and who burned open fires in violation of a ban. That campground host told me the sheriff was making regular rounds up and down the road handing out $500 tickets.

Bans, obvious devastation a few miles down the road, and expensive citations aren't enough to influence some of the population. If a legal fire is left smoldering, I have to wonder if an illegal one amid the expanding trash piles that line our forest thoroughfares is properly extinguished.

Accidentally starting a wildfire, like every other ignorant act, is something that always happens to the other guy. As our country dries to a crisp I think about how many "other guys" are playing Russian roulette with the future of our national forests by disregarding campfire etiquette.

I'll be long gone before the land that encompasses the Hayman fire burn area and the new ones in Arizona ever recover. Those are places I'll never be able to take my grandchildren to enjoy the beauty of nature. We enjoy Buffalo Creek and many other Colorado campgrounds now, but wonder how long they will stay viable and how soon it may be that we experience an epic fire again. My wife and I are doing what we can by limiting fires, burning only in designated fire rings, and ensuring the fire is out, completely, before abandoning it. By taking such actions I'd like to think I'm in the overwhelming majority, but I don't have a good feeling about that.


 

The Life of a Tree

A tree slowly inches upward as it lives in a previous time. As we respond to each day's heat or cold or wind or snow, the pine and maple and elm and oak take little notice of the brief event. To them it is the series of days and months and years of nature's forces that affect a life's journey. Trees live in the past.

A gardener rubs a callous after a hard day's digging in rocky ground, spots a new gray hair or three between summer haircuts, notes another toe on the crow's feet around our laughing eyes as we pose for a holiday portrait. We notice the new events on our physical frames as the tree sways unnoticed in the distance, climbing higher to the sky.

The stifling summer afternoon drives us to the cooling shade and a welcome respite with lemonade or sun-warmed ice tea. The protective tree creates the shade while it bears the full impact of the sun-drenched day. It has no respite.

We seldom notice or think about the punishing blows that the tree absorbs. A single day of staggering heat is but a pinprick to a mighty forest bastion. A sequence of weeks with heat and wind and lack of rain begins to wound the mighty arbor, but like the proud father before his worshiping children he shows neither pain nor discomfort.

A tree lives in the past. The growth we climb and photograph and hide under in the relentless heat is the result of the days it experienced two or three years before. It gathers the light and air and water of today to form energy in the complex formula of life and transports that energy deep down to the core of its roots. There it stays, added to yesterday's and last week's contributions. The roots grow and increasing vitality lies unused, yet waiting, in the yielding soil.

When the tree requires nutrition to add the leaves and needles to continue the cycle it draws on the stored reserves. The lengthening branches and towering crown pull from the root-borne sustenance. In days of heat and dry, it sups on the deposit from days of cool and wet. Once used, the energy is gone.

The cycle of storing and consuming continues for the life of the tree. The lengthy delay between the two assumes a balance will exist. It assumes that the force that congregates over many nameless months will be enough for the unforeseen future need. When the scale tips precipitously we do not notice and the tree does not proclaim.

As the stress of sun and drought reduce the energy deposit we enjoy the green and cool from many days earlier when the tree bathed in the rain. As the desiccating cycle continues we offer gratitude for the tree that provides us relief and shelter. The tree does not ask for anything, but the balance is broken.

When the rains fail to fall and the sun stokes the atmospheric furnace, the tree does not cry out in thirst and pain. When the arborial life-restoring machine slows in the parched air, the tree pulls from its core to show green and growth and to slake our need for coolness as it sacrifices itself. We curse the heat, praise the tree, and do not think to restore the shattered scales.

Is is later, much later, that we notice the sacrifice. A tree lives in the past. It is showing today what it experienced years ago. The tree knows it is weakened after long periods of want, insects and pests recognize its weakened state, but we assume all is well. Trees are tall, trees are strong, trees live longer than we. It is only when it is too late that we notice its faltering.

Few new needles, sparse leaves, wilting limbs, and brown replacing green are our first signs, but they are the postscript in the tree's diary. When we see damage and stress and pain, it is too late. Our action and aid will have little effect. Trees live in the past. The water we lavish today will reward the tree years from now, but to withdraw that deposit it must survive until then.

If we had audited the balance sheet when the scale tipped we could have forestalled the death. A tree will accumulate future growth as a function of its being. But if there is no water, there is no life-sustaining moisture to gather. The strongest roots breaking through granite will find no water if none exists. It will use the last of the liquid essence in its veins to grow and find more. This ultimate starvation is hidden from the casual observer.

It is only at the end of it's life after its core is laid open that we are able to witness how the tree reacted to its struggles. The ever expanding rings bear witness to each season and each battle and each yearly accrual, but always in the past.  We can trace the rings and find our wedding year, when our first child was born, and the point of the tree's death. That death is not in the thin final ring, but in the meager bands two and three prior.

As we duck from the pestering rain and remember the drought of a few years before, we study the ring on the stump that bears witness to months of stress when we were thirsty too. If old enough, we may recognize the large circles from the early days when we cared for it, watered it faithfully, and documented its growth. Like human children we know they reach a point when they can care for themselves. With age and stature comes responsibility for one's survival and we cease to nanny our children or the tree.

Trees can't ask for help when the pressures of life are too much. They can't scream in anguish. They can only show us their end in the throes of decline.

We live for today and look to tomorrow. A tree lives in the past and each day is only a show of its yesterdays.

A tree slowly inches upward as it lives in a previous time. As we respond to each day's heat or cold or wind or snow, the pine and maple and elm and oak take little notice of the brief event. To them it is the series of days and months and years of nature's forces that affect a life's journey. Trees live in the past.

A gardener rubs a callous after a hard day's digging in rocky ground, spots a new gray hair or three between summer haircuts, notes another toe on the crow's feet around our laughing eyes as we pose for a holiday portrait. We notice the new events on our physical frames as the tree sways unnoticed in the distance, climbing higher to the sky.

The stifling summer afternoon drives us to the cooling shade and a welcome respite with lemonade or sun-warmed ice tea. The protective tree creates the shade while it bears the full impact of the sun-drenched day. It has no respite.

We seldom notice or think about the punishing blows that the tree absorbs. A single day of staggering heat is but a pinprick to a mighty forest bastion. A sequence of weeks with heat and wind and lack of rain begins to wound the mighty arbor, but like the proud father before his worshiping children he shows neither pain nor discomfort.

A tree lives in the past. The growth we climb and photograph and hide under in the relentless heat is the result of the days it experienced two or three years before. It gathers the light and air and water of today to form energy in the complex formula of life and transports that energy deep down to the core of its roots. There it stays, added to yesterday's and last week's contributions. The roots grow and increasing vitality lies unused, yet waiting, in the yielding soil.

When the tree requires nutrition to add the leaves and needles to continue the cycle it draws on the stored reserves. The lengthening branches and towering crown pull from the root-borne sustenance. In days of heat and dry, it sups on the deposit from days of cool and wet. Once used, the energy is gone.

The cycle of storing and consuming continues for the life of the tree. The lengthy delay between the two assumes a balance will exist. It assumes that the force that congregates over many nameless months will be enough for the unforeseen future need. When the scale tips precipitously we do not notice and the tree does not proclaim.

As the stress of sun and drought reduce the energy deposit we enjoy the green and cool from many days earlier when the tree bathed in the rain. As the desiccating cycle continues we offer gratitude for the tree that provides us relief and shelter. The tree does not ask for anything, but the balance is broken.

When the rains fail to fall and the sun stokes the atmospheric furnace, the tree does not cry out in thirst and pain. When the arborial life-restoring machine slows in the parched air, the tree pulls from its core to show green and growth and to slake our need for coolness as it sacrifices itself. We curse the heat, praise the tree, and do not think to restore the shattered scales.

Is is later, much later, that we notice the sacrifice. A tree lives in the past. It is showing today what it experienced years ago. The tree knows it is weakened after long periods of want, insects and pests recognize its weakened state, but we assume all is well. Trees are tall, trees are strong, trees live longer than we. It is only when it is too late that we notice its faltering.

Few new needles, sparse leaves, wilting limbs, and brown replacing green are our first signs, but they are the postscript in the tree's diary. When we see damage and stress and pain, it is too late. Our action and aid will have little effect. Trees live in the past. The water we lavish today will reward the tree years from now, but to withdraw that deposit it must survive until then.

If we had audited the balance sheet when the scale tipped we could have forestalled the death. A tree will accumulate future growth as a function of its being. But if there is no water, there is no life-sustaining moisture to gather. The strongest roots breaking through granite will find no water if none exists. It will use the last of the liquid essence in its veins to grow and find more. This ultimate starvation is hidden from the casual observer.

It is only at the end of it's life after its core is laid open that we are able to witness how the tree reacted to its struggles. The ever expanding rings bear witness to each season and each battle and each yearly accrual, but always in the past.  We can trace the rings and find our wedding year, when our first child was born, and the point of the tree's death. That death is not in the thin final ring, but in the meager bands two and three prior.

As we duck from the pestering rain and remember the drought of a few years before, we study the ring on the stump that bears witness to months of stress when we were thirsty too. If old enough, we may recognize the large circles from the early days when we cared for it, watered it faithfully, and documented its growth. Like human children we know they reach a point when they can care for themselves. With age and stature comes responsibility for one's survival and we cease to nanny our children or the tree.

Trees can't ask for help when the pressures of life are too much. They can't scream in anguish. They can only show us their end in the throes of decline.

We live for today and look to tomorrow. A tree lives in the past and each day is only a show of its yesterdays.

How to Butcher a Tree

There's a right way to prune a tree and there's definitely many wrong ways to prune a tree. It's heartbreaking to see how the utilities company destroyed a number of my pine trees this week through wanton disregard for correct pruning practice. In an effort to free power lines from potential branch encroachment, they lopped off all of the tree tops, effectively eliminating any future vertical growth.

I didn't plant these trees. They were either planted or selectively thinned by the person who lived here a few decades ago. They now stand, in their abused state, as an example of what can happen if you don't anticipate future growth of any plant you choose to add to your landscape. I have to assume that the power lines were installed when the house was built. The trees were placed as a visual and physical border separating the front yard from the road about the same time, beneath the power lines.

Though not directly under the lines, their growth pattern put them close. After many years with no problems and many years when the utilities company saw no issues, some of the upper branches were growing within a few feet of live, electric lines. When I saw the tree-cutting crew arrive, I assumed they would only cut off the branches that might pose problems. Of course you know what happens when you assume. They sheared off the top third of the trees; I suspect that is company policy when it comes to clearing lines.

Before.

Now the tops are gone.

I suppose what annoys me the most is that I understand how trees grow and assumed that a "trained" tree-cutting crew also knew how trees grow (there's that word again). With selective and appropriate pruning the lines could be cleared of any possible branch problems and the trees would have retained their ability to grow and look like trees. Now they're hacked to the point that I will have to remove many of them.

As you know, trees grow vertically. Pine trees grow with a central leader. That's the single trunk from which all of the branches spread. Occasionally you might see a tree with another leader challenging for supremacy, but the typical pattern is one central trunk. That pinnacle grows higher every year. As it climbs, new buds and new branches appear and add to the structure.

Older branches, closer to the base, continue to thicken and grow. The interesting point about branches is that they'll always stay in the same spot. A branch that is three feet off the ground will always be three feet off the ground. A tree like a pine achieves its conical shape because the older branches at the bottom spread out laterally as they grow bigger. The new branches at the top are smaller and closer to the main trunk. In time they will get thicker and longer and add to the conical shape for newer, smaller branches above.

If you cut off the pine's central leader, this growth cycle is destroyed. No new vertical growth will happen and no new branches will appear. The lower branches will continue to get bigger and eventually the tree will look like a big, squat cylinder. The branches at the top will spread horizontally at about the same distance as the lower ones. Gone is the classic conical pine tree.

The tree decapitated.

The primary lesson here, and one that I've written about before, is that you need to anticipate the future when you plant. I planted two fruit trees about 30 feet apart last year. They look odd, these two small trees standing, seemingly, all by themselves in the expanse of yard. But these are full size apple and cherry trees that should each have a spread of about 25 feet when fully grown, nearly 15 feet on each side. When viewed in that context, these trees will be nearly bumping up to each other many years from now.

I have a single Golden Rain Tree standing by itself in the middle of the field. When it reaches a potential 40-feet height and 30-feet spread, it will visually dominate the area. I have the patience to wait for that and the vision to plan for it.

From a single mint plant that may potentially overrun your garden to a few raspberry canes that may do the same, you need to think about a plant's growth pattern when selecting the best location. Typical vegetable gardens are easy because most of the plants will be gone at the end of the season; you only need to be concerned about the ones that will survive the winter. For perennial plants, bushes, hedges, and trees, you need to think about how they'll look in a year, in two, in five, and beyond that.

Don't plant young trees close together unless you intend on thinning them out as they grow. Don't plant trees next to your house or near power lines or other structures, unless you want to worry about how to remove them when they get too big. Don't plant trees in your garden unless you have a plan for the shade that will inevitably expand each year.

I'm trying to decide what to do with my front yard now that the trees are a macabre spectacle. They really do need to come down and be put out of their misery. Any replacement trees need to be low-growing ones. I'll probably go with shrubs and bushes, in addition to ones I already have planted. With the trees gone there will be enough sun for colorful perennials to highlight the entry drive. The whole personality of the front entrance will be different and offer another blank palette for my gardening desires.

If given the choice, I would prefer the trees not to have been assaulted. In our forested neighborhood, they looked very natural. Lack of trees is more unnatural. If you have a choice, plant carefully. If you don't, you may be victim of a tree-maiming crew in the future.

There's a right way to prune a tree and there's definitely many wrong ways to prune a tree. It's heartbreaking to see how the utilities company destroyed a number of my pine trees this week through wanton disregard for correct pruning practice. In an effort to free power lines from potential branch encroachment, they lopped off all of the tree tops, effectively eliminating any future vertical growth.

I didn't plant these trees. They were either planted or selectively thinned by the person who lived here a few decades ago. They now stand, in their abused state, as an example of what can happen if you don't anticipate future growth of any plant you choose to add to your landscape. I have to assume that the power lines were installed when the house was built. The trees were placed as a visual and physical border separating the front yard from the road about the same time, beneath the power lines.

Though not directly under the lines, their growth pattern put them close. After many years with no problems and many years when the utilities company saw no issues, some of the upper branches were growing within a few feet of live, electric lines. When I saw the tree-cutting crew arrive, I assumed they would only cut off the branches that might pose problems. Of course you know what happens when you assume. They sheared off the top third of the trees; I suspect that is company policy when it comes to clearing lines.

Before.

Now the tops are gone.

I suppose what annoys me the most is that I understand how trees grow and assumed that a "trained" tree-cutting crew also knew how trees grow (there's that word again). With selective and appropriate pruning the lines could be cleared of any possible branch problems and the trees would have retained their ability to grow and look like trees. Now they're hacked to the point that I will have to remove many of them.

As you know, trees grow vertically. Pine trees grow with a central leader. That's the single trunk from which all of the branches spread. Occasionally you might see a tree with another leader challenging for supremacy, but the typical pattern is one central trunk. That pinnacle grows higher every year. As it climbs, new buds and new branches appear and add to the structure.

Older branches, closer to the base, continue to thicken and grow. The interesting point about branches is that they'll always stay in the same spot. A branch that is three feet off the ground will always be three feet off the ground. A tree like a pine achieves its conical shape because the older branches at the bottom spread out laterally as they grow bigger. The new branches at the top are smaller and closer to the main trunk. In time they will get thicker and longer and add to the conical shape for newer, smaller branches above.

If you cut off the pine's central leader, this growth cycle is destroyed. No new vertical growth will happen and no new branches will appear. The lower branches will continue to get bigger and eventually the tree will look like a big, squat cylinder. The branches at the top will spread horizontally at about the same distance as the lower ones. Gone is the classic conical pine tree.

The tree decapitated.

The primary lesson here, and one that I've written about before, is that you need to anticipate the future when you plant. I planted two fruit trees about 30 feet apart last year. They look odd, these two small trees standing, seemingly, all by themselves in the expanse of yard. But these are full size apple and cherry trees that should each have a spread of about 25 feet when fully grown, nearly 15 feet on each side. When viewed in that context, these trees will be nearly bumping up to each other many years from now.

I have a single Golden Rain Tree standing by itself in the middle of the field. When it reaches a potential 40-feet height and 30-feet spread, it will visually dominate the area. I have the patience to wait for that and the vision to plan for it.

From a single mint plant that may potentially overrun your garden to a few raspberry canes that may do the same, you need to think about a plant's growth pattern when selecting the best location. Typical vegetable gardens are easy because most of the plants will be gone at the end of the season; you only need to be concerned about the ones that will survive the winter. For perennial plants, bushes, hedges, and trees, you need to think about how they'll look in a year, in two, in five, and beyond that.

Don't plant young trees close together unless you intend on thinning them out as they grow. Don't plant trees next to your house or near power lines or other structures, unless you want to worry about how to remove them when they get too big. Don't plant trees in your garden unless you have a plan for the shade that will inevitably expand each year.

I'm trying to decide what to do with my front yard now that the trees are a macabre spectacle. They really do need to come down and be put out of their misery. Any replacement trees need to be low-growing ones. I'll probably go with shrubs and bushes, in addition to ones I already have planted. With the trees gone there will be enough sun for colorful perennials to highlight the entry drive. The whole personality of the front entrance will be different and offer another blank palette for my gardening desires.

If given the choice, I would prefer the trees not to have been assaulted. In our forested neighborhood, they looked very natural. Lack of trees is more unnatural. If you have a choice, plant carefully. If you don't, you may be victim of a tree-maiming crew in the future.

Trees Like Prunes

January and February are perfect for most tree pruning. While you can prune trees almost any time of the year, now is a good time because you can see the internal structure of deciduous trees with the leaves off, trees are dormant and pruning stress is less severe, and there aren't many other outside gardening activities to do. Late winter to early spring is when most experts recommend heavy tree pruning and if you look at the calendar, that's now.

There are a few primary reasons to prune trees. The USDA lists three: safety, health, and aesthetics. I prune for all of these reasons.

Safety pruning covers many areas. There were trees in our yard that interfered with mowing the lawn. Invariably I would hit my head or impale myself while riding the mower. I took off many of those branches. That's pruning for safety. If you keep having to duck under a branch on a path you might consider removing it. I cut off pine branches that hindered the view out of the windshield as we drove from our driveway onto the road. If weak or over-sized branches begin to interfere with power lines or overhang your house, removing them is a good idea.

This branch is too low.

One of the main reasons I prune is for aesthetic value. Trees are a major component in any garden's appeal; a good-looking tree can benefit the garden and landscape. The aesthetics are a personal choice. I like a balanced look in trees with branches looking natural, yet orderly. I'll prune branches that are too close together or that aren't symmetrical to neighboring ones. It brings out the artist in me as I sculpt the landscape through selective removal of limbs.

This small branch grew up, then crossed over and down. It was unsightly.

The health of the tree is the third primary reason. Diseased or infested limbs should always be removed. If snow or wind breaks a branch, pruning the affected limb correctly can improve healing. I look for crowded areas of growth and prune to increase airflow and light throughout the tree; this can lessen pest problems. I also look for branches that are interfering with others and prune to allow proper growth.

A dead branch that needed to go.

Pruning is more than just cutting off a branch. There's a right way to do it; if done correctly, the tree will naturally cover up the wound and heal well. If the pruning cut is bad, the tree may be more susceptible to insect damage, disease, or rot.

For thinning out branches, cutting off twigs from a limb is as simple as clipping or sawing it cleanly and evenly. You want to avoid leaving nubs that stick out; remove as much of the twig or branch as you can.

For removal cuts next to the trunk you'll want to determine the proper cutting angle. Look for the branch collar and branch bark ridge. These are technical names for the bulges at the base of branches. The collar is the thicker band of growth at the bottom of the branch where it grows from the trunk; the bark ridge is the crumbled area at the top where the bark of the trunk meets the bark of the branch. If a branch is cut off just outside the branch collar, about 1/4 inch, tree tissue will grow over the cut like a donut and protect it from decay. Ideally you'll want to prune off branches before they reach two inches thick. The cut will rarely be flush with the trunk and usually angles out slightly from the top to the bottom.

A cut covered with dried sap and beginning to heal

For particularly large limbs, make an initial shallow cut into the bottom of the branch about six inches or so outside the branch collar; this is to reduce the chance that the bark will strip off in the next step. Then cut completely through the branch a few inches beyond that. The third and final cut should be just outside the branch collar. Because you've already removed most of the branch, the weight and size of the final piece you're removing is very manageable.

Branches awaiting the final cut.

Some trees like elms and maples will "bleed" when cut during the winter. The oozing sap can drip for days before drying out and beginning the healing process. That's why maple syrup growers harvest the sap at this time of year. For those trees I prefer to wait until late spring or early summer. I pruned my Silver Maple at that time and had fewer problems with oozing.

I don't recommend putting a dressing on the cut. It used to be thought that applying something like a poultice to a tree wound would promote healing and protect it from harmful organisms. It's found that the opposite is often true.

Some of my pruning tools.

The tools for pruning are pretty simple. I prefer bypass pruning shears versus anvil shears for cutting small twigs; the anvil doesn't allow as close a cut in my opinion. Loppers are bigger two-handed versions of shears and cut finger size branches with no problem. Pruning saws and Japanese saws are hand-size tools that cut quickly through medium-sized limbs. A bow saw makes short work of thicker branches. And a chainsaw is unrivaled for big cuts. For tall branches, a telescoping pole pruner can reach ten feet high or more.

With practice, pruning is quick, easy, and benefits the tree and the aesthetics of the garden. Pruning fruit trees can be more complex and I'll cover that in another article. There are other issues when pruning bushes and I'll cover that later too. For now, take a good, hard look at your trees. Look for damaged branches, unsightly branches, overcrowded branches, and annoying branches. Remove them and have fun with it.

January and February are perfect for most tree pruning. While you can prune trees almost any time of the year, now is a good time because you can see the internal structure of deciduous trees with the leaves off, trees are dormant and pruning stress is less severe, and there aren't many other outside gardening activities to do. Late winter to early spring is when most experts recommend heavy tree pruning and if you look at the calendar, that's now.

There are a few primary reasons to prune trees. The USDA lists three: safety, health, and aesthetics. I prune for all of these reasons.

Safety pruning covers many areas. There were trees in our yard that interfered with mowing the lawn. Invariably I would hit my head or impale myself while riding the mower. I took off many of those branches. That's pruning for safety. If you keep having to duck under a branch on a path you might consider removing it. I cut off pine branches that hindered the view out of the windshield as we drove from our driveway onto the road. If weak or over-sized branches begin to interfere with power lines or overhang your house, removing them is a good idea.

This branch is too low.

One of the main reasons I prune is for aesthetic value. Trees are a major component in any garden's appeal; a good-looking tree can benefit the garden and landscape. The aesthetics are a personal choice. I like a balanced look in trees with branches looking natural, yet orderly. I'll prune branches that are too close together or that aren't symmetrical to neighboring ones. It brings out the artist in me as I sculpt the landscape through selective removal of limbs.

This small branch grew up, then crossed over and down. It was unsightly.

The health of the tree is the third primary reason. Diseased or infested limbs should always be removed. If snow or wind breaks a branch, pruning the affected limb correctly can improve healing. I look for crowded areas of growth and prune to increase airflow and light throughout the tree; this can lessen pest problems. I also look for branches that are interfering with others and prune to allow proper growth.

A dead branch that needed to go.

Pruning is more than just cutting off a branch. There's a right way to do it; if done correctly, the tree will naturally cover up the wound and heal well. If the pruning cut is bad, the tree may be more susceptible to insect damage, disease, or rot.

For thinning out branches, cutting off twigs from a limb is as simple as clipping or sawing it cleanly and evenly. You want to avoid leaving nubs that stick out; remove as much of the twig or branch as you can.

For removal cuts next to the trunk you'll want to determine the proper cutting angle. Look for the branch collar and branch bark ridge. These are technical names for the bulges at the base of branches. The collar is the thicker band of growth at the bottom of the branch where it grows from the trunk; the bark ridge is the crumbled area at the top where the bark of the trunk meets the bark of the branch. If a branch is cut off just outside the branch collar, about 1/4 inch, tree tissue will grow over the cut like a donut and protect it from decay. Ideally you'll want to prune off branches before they reach two inches thick. The cut will rarely be flush with the trunk and usually angles out slightly from the top to the bottom.

A cut covered with dried sap and beginning to heal

For particularly large limbs, make an initial shallow cut into the bottom of the branch about six inches or so outside the branch collar; this is to reduce the chance that the bark will strip off in the next step. Then cut completely through the branch a few inches beyond that. The third and final cut should be just outside the branch collar. Because you've already removed most of the branch, the weight and size of the final piece you're removing is very manageable.

Branches awaiting the final cut.

Some trees like elms and maples will "bleed" when cut during the winter. The oozing sap can drip for days before drying out and beginning the healing process. That's why maple syrup growers harvest the sap at this time of year. For those trees I prefer to wait until late spring or early summer. I pruned my Silver Maple at that time and had fewer problems with oozing.

I don't recommend putting a dressing on the cut. It used to be thought that applying something like a poultice to a tree wound would promote healing and protect it from harmful organisms. It's found that the opposite is often true.

Some of my pruning tools.

The tools for pruning are pretty simple. I prefer bypass pruning shears versus anvil shears for cutting small twigs; the anvil doesn't allow as close a cut in my opinion. Loppers are bigger two-handed versions of shears and cut finger size branches with no problem. Pruning saws and Japanese saws are hand-size tools that cut quickly through medium-sized limbs. A bow saw makes short work of thicker branches. And a chainsaw is unrivaled for big cuts. For tall branches, a telescoping pole pruner can reach ten feet high or more.

With practice, pruning is quick, easy, and benefits the tree and the aesthetics of the garden. Pruning fruit trees can be more complex and I'll cover that in another article. There are other issues when pruning bushes and I'll cover that later too. For now, take a good, hard look at your trees. Look for damaged branches, unsightly branches, overcrowded branches, and annoying branches. Remove them and have fun with it.

Protecting Trees Against Winter Damage

It's winter and almost all of the United States has experienced cold weather. Even Florida and Arizona have endured unusual chills. Just as we feel better when we don a warm coat on a gray day, small and young trees can benefit from an extra layer. Thick bark on big trees provides ample winter protection, but thin-barked specimens can be damaged by cold weather patterns.

An obvious crack on an aspen.

Sustained cold temperatures aren't the problem; trees can handle that. It's the sun that causes harm. Just as a freeze-thaw cycle may affect soil and tender roots, cold temperatures and the warming sun of day can damage trees. After a cold night or cold, overcast day, the outer bark cools to that same cold temperature. When the sun finally comes out, it begins to warm the bark, but only on the side facing the sun. The warm bark begins to expand and because of the temperature differential from the backside, can split. This "frost crack" is evident on the south and southwest side of trees.

The sun and heat may also cause the bark to be stimulated and begin growing new cells on just the one side. A quick return of cold temperatures kills the new cells. This pattern causes the bark on the sun-facing side to become sunken or split. This "sun scald" results in an elongated dried, sunken, or cracked section of bark.

Both of these situations result in a wound that makes the tree susceptible to further damage and even death. The weakened area may not protect the tree from additional cold damage; like when you walk into a storm with your coat unzipped. More importantly, during warmer weather the wound is an invitation for insects, fungus, and tree diseases. If the tree isn't strong enough to persevere, it can die.

Wrapping my apple tree.

There are a few things you can do to help counteract this problem. The bark absorbs the heat of the sun, causing the damage. Simple methods of reflecting the sunlight to prevent the warming can be effective. You've probably seen the base of public trees painted white. The white color reflects most of the sun's rays and heat. A better procedure for the same principle, is wrapping the trunk of a young tree with white plastic tape to reflect the sunlight. A light plastic trunk guard works well too.

Only the lower portion of tender trees need to be protected. Branches help shade the trunk, stabilize bark temperature, and reduce sun damage. For this reason, newly-pruned, young or thin-skinned trees may be damaged if not protected. You'll rarely see this kind of bark damage more than a few feet off the ground.

Apple tree wrapped to the first branch.

Ideally you want to wrap a tree in the fall before the severe cold of winter, but it can be done any time, particularly before the bark is damaged. You also want to remove the wrap in spring. If the wrap remains on the tree, excess moisture between the wrap and bark can cause water damage; harmful insects can also live, thrive, and lay eggs in that protected space. After a couple winters young trees should have thick enough bark to prevent problems. Thin barked-trees may need to be wrapped for four or five years, but only during the winter; if you leave a wrap or plastic guard on the tree it can also lead to "girdling" issues where the growing tree is strangled.

Many trees will survive with this type of damage, but if you have a treasured tree like my Gala Apple tree in the photos it will benefit both you and the tree to take the extra precautions against the damaging effects of winter sun.

It's winter and almost all of the United States has experienced cold weather. Even Florida and Arizona have endured unusual chills. Just as we feel better when we don a warm coat on a gray day, small and young trees can benefit from an extra layer. Thick bark on big trees provides ample winter protection, but thin-barked specimens can be damaged by cold weather patterns.

An obvious crack on an aspen.

Sustained cold temperatures aren't the problem; trees can handle that. It's the sun that causes harm. Just as a freeze-thaw cycle may affect soil and tender roots, cold temperatures and the warming sun of day can damage trees. After a cold night or cold, overcast day, the outer bark cools to that same cold temperature. When the sun finally comes out, it begins to warm the bark, but only on the side facing the sun. The warm bark begins to expand and because of the temperature differential from the backside, can split. This "frost crack" is evident on the south and southwest side of trees.

The sun and heat may also cause the bark to be stimulated and begin growing new cells on just the one side. A quick return of cold temperatures kills the new cells. This pattern causes the bark on the sun-facing side to become sunken or split. This "sun scald" results in an elongated dried, sunken, or cracked section of bark.

Both of these situations result in a wound that makes the tree susceptible to further damage and even death. The weakened area may not protect the tree from additional cold damage; like when you walk into a storm with your coat unzipped. More importantly, during warmer weather the wound is an invitation for insects, fungus, and tree diseases. If the tree isn't strong enough to persevere, it can die.

Wrapping my apple tree.

There are a few things you can do to help counteract this problem. The bark absorbs the heat of the sun, causing the damage. Simple methods of reflecting the sunlight to prevent the warming can be effective. You've probably seen the base of public trees painted white. The white color reflects most of the sun's rays and heat. A better procedure for the same principle, is wrapping the trunk of a young tree with white plastic tape to reflect the sunlight. A light plastic trunk guard works well too.

Only the lower portion of tender trees need to be protected. Branches help shade the trunk, stabilize bark temperature, and reduce sun damage. For this reason, newly-pruned, young or thin-skinned trees may be damaged if not protected. You'll rarely see this kind of bark damage more than a few feet off the ground.

Apple tree wrapped to the first branch.

Ideally you want to wrap a tree in the fall before the severe cold of winter, but it can be done any time, particularly before the bark is damaged. You also want to remove the wrap in spring. If the wrap remains on the tree, excess moisture between the wrap and bark can cause water damage; harmful insects can also live, thrive, and lay eggs in that protected space. After a couple winters young trees should have thick enough bark to prevent problems. Thin barked-trees may need to be wrapped for four or five years, but only during the winter; if you leave a wrap or plastic guard on the tree it can also lead to "girdling" issues where the growing tree is strangled.

Many trees will survive with this type of damage, but if you have a treasured tree like my Gala Apple tree in the photos it will benefit both you and the tree to take the extra precautions against the damaging effects of winter sun.

How To Tell If You Have a Pine, Spruce, or Fir Tree

At this time of year many families are buying or chopping down trees to celebrate Christmas. They know what they like, be it a towering bastion of the forest or a Charlie Brown rescue tree. Like many of the conifers we have in our landscape, people often refer to any tree with needles instead of leaves as a "pine tree". In actuality, many, if not most, of the trees we purchase at Christmas are fir trees.

The National Christmas Tree Association (www.christmastree.org) reports that the number one most popular tree grown and sold in the U.S. is a Fraser Fir. My good friends Della and Roger have a beautiful Fraser Fir decorated in white and silver. The number two tree is a Douglas Fir, the number three tree is a Balsam Fir, and the number four tree is the Colorado Blue Spruce. The first pine tree, a Scotch Pine comes in at number five. Our family favorite, the Noble Fir, just missed the top ten.

Our little Noble Fir Christmas tree

Many of us select Christmas trees and landscape trees because we like how they look, not because we like their name. In the process we tend to generalize. I know many people who walk through a forested area or even their own yards and refer to the "pine trees", even when they are clearly (to me) a different type of tree. With a few helpful tips, it's fairly easy to tell them apart.

Much of this information comes from a tree identification class and guide developed by Linda Smith of the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension in El Paso County, Colorado. It was produced for Master Gardeners and isn't readily available to the public, but I'll share some highlights with you now.

Generally speaking, a conifer is a plant with needled foliage that remains on the plant throughout the year -- an "evergreen". If a plant doesn't have flat leaves, its probably a conifer. The needles are the most obvious and easiest way to quickly identify the type of conifer. With training, practice, and a good identification key you'll be able to tell the difference between a Douglas Fir and a White Fir, but my intent is to teach you basics for general recognition.

There are basically three types of conifers based on their foliage or needles. The first type is plants that have individual needles growing on stems; Spruce and Fir trees fall into this category. The second group is plants where the needles grow in bundles; pine trees follow this pattern. The third is plants with overlapping scale-like foliage; Junipers and Arborvitae are in this type.

Spruce and Fir trees look very similar, but with close-up inspection are easy to tell apart. Both have single needles growing from all around a stem, but roll a needle between your fingers and you'll see that Spruce trees have square-shaped needles while Fir trees have flat needles. If you grab a branch, Spruce needles are sharp and Fir needles are blunt, or "friendly" to hold. Take an individual needle and bend it; Spruce needles are stiff and may break while Fir needles are flexible. The needles on a Spruce grow in a spiral around the stem, but Firs tend to grow with all needles pointing up at the sky.

Use this memory aid to identify a Spruce or Fir:

Spruce tree needles are Square, Sharp, Stiff, and grow in a Spiral.
Fir tree needles are Flat, Friendly, Flexible, and grow "fir" the sky.

Pine trees have a completely different needle structure. Pine needles are slender and typically longer than a Spruce or Fir. Most importantly, pine needles grow in bundles of two to five needles connected by a papery sheath at the base. This sheath connects to the stem on a branch and when pulled from the tree remains intact with all of the bundled needles staying together. When the needles in a sheath are compressed together, they form a circular column. Remember that Pines have "plural" needles.

Our old Ponderosa Pine tree in our front drive

Juniper and Arborvitae look very similar. If the tree has overlapping scale-like foliage with horizontal and vertical foliage sprays, it is a Juniper. If the scale-like foliage grows in vertical and flattened spays, it is an Arborvitae. Junipers tend to have prickly needles while Arborvitae have rounded tips. Juniper does well in many growing conditions and will tolerate dry locations very well; Arborvitae will not tolerate dry, windy conditions. Juniper grows upright like a single-trunk tree or as a spreading shrub; Arborvitae grows tall in a teardrop-shaped, dense form, usually with multiple trunks. The cones of both trees look like berries; Juniper have three to six scales that are fused together in a round ball while Arborvitae have thicker scales that tend to peel back into pointed tips.

That's it. With the basic information above you should be able to give yourself the confidence to correctly identify an evergreen tree. There are a few other conifers like Yew and Larch, but they aren't very common and you should know right off that they aren't pine trees.

With more practice and experience you can identify specific tree types. Pinon Pine, Mugo Pine, and Lodgepole Pine trees all have two needles in a bundle. Pinon Pine needles are medium green, have white stripes along the needle and are 1/2" to 1-3/4" long; Mugo Pine needles are dark green, 1" to 3" long and slightly curved; Lodgepole Pine needles are yellowish-green, 1" to 3" long and sharp and stiff with a slight twist.

Ponderosa Pine grows in bundles of three needles that are 4" to 7" long, sometimes longer. Both Bristlecone and Limber Pine trees have bundles of five needles, but the Bristlecone needles are shorter and clearly identified by the little white spots that cover them. Colorado Spruce needles are 3/4" to 1-1/4" long while Engelmann Spruce needles are only 1/4" to 1/2" long.

The first step in making an easy tree identification is to find out what kind of conifers grow in your area. Ask your local Extension office, nurseries, or tree growers for a listing of local trees. I live in an area forested by Ponderosa Pines. With my eyes closed I can identify trees in our neighborhood as Ponderosa because that's about all that we have so I've started growing Colorado Blue Spruce to break up the monotony. If you know that White Firs don't naturally grow in your area, you aren't likely to confuse them with Douglas Firs.

If you want to go beyond the basic identification I've described, get a tree identification book or online guide. Just like the different needles, conifers have differing cones (only Pine trees have Pine cones). They have different growth patterns and different environmental requirements. By knowing what to look for, you can correctly identify unknown varieties. Next time you walk through a forest, stop and feel the needles. You'll amaze yourself at how easy it is.

At this time of year many families are buying or chopping down trees to celebrate Christmas. They know what they like, be it a towering bastion of the forest or a Charlie Brown rescue tree. Like many of the conifers we have in our landscape, people often refer to any tree with needles instead of leaves as a "pine tree". In actuality, many, if not most, of the trees we purchase at Christmas are fir trees.

The National Christmas Tree Association (www.christmastree.org) reports that the number one most popular tree grown and sold in the U.S. is a Fraser Fir. My good friends Della and Roger have a beautiful Fraser Fir decorated in white and silver. The number two tree is a Douglas Fir, the number three tree is a Balsam Fir, and the number four tree is the Colorado Blue Spruce. The first pine tree, a Scotch Pine comes in at number five. Our family favorite, the Noble Fir, just missed the top ten.

Our little Noble Fir Christmas tree

Many of us select Christmas trees and landscape trees because we like how they look, not because we like their name. In the process we tend to generalize. I know many people who walk through a forested area or even their own yards and refer to the "pine trees", even when they are clearly (to me) a different type of tree. With a few helpful tips, it's fairly easy to tell them apart.

Much of this information comes from a tree identification class and guide developed by Linda Smith of the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension in El Paso County, Colorado. It was produced for Master Gardeners and isn't readily available to the public, but I'll share some highlights with you now.

Generally speaking, a conifer is a plant with needled foliage that remains on the plant throughout the year -- an "evergreen". If a plant doesn't have flat leaves, its probably a conifer. The needles are the most obvious and easiest way to quickly identify the type of conifer. With training, practice, and a good identification key you'll be able to tell the difference between a Douglas Fir and a White Fir, but my intent is to teach you basics for general recognition.

There are basically three types of conifers based on their foliage or needles. The first type is plants that have individual needles growing on stems; Spruce and Fir trees fall into this category. The second group is plants where the needles grow in bundles; pine trees follow this pattern. The third is plants with overlapping scale-like foliage; Junipers and Arborvitae are in this type.

Spruce and Fir trees look very similar, but with close-up inspection are easy to tell apart. Both have single needles growing from all around a stem, but roll a needle between your fingers and you'll see that Spruce trees have square-shaped needles while Fir trees have flat needles. If you grab a branch, Spruce needles are sharp and Fir needles are blunt, or "friendly" to hold. Take an individual needle and bend it; Spruce needles are stiff and may break while Fir needles are flexible. The needles on a Spruce grow in a spiral around the stem, but Firs tend to grow with all needles pointing up at the sky.

Use this memory aid to identify a Spruce or Fir:

Spruce tree needles are Square, Sharp, Stiff, and grow in a Spiral.
Fir tree needles are Flat, Friendly, Flexible, and grow "fir" the sky.

Pine trees have a completely different needle structure. Pine needles are slender and typically longer than a Spruce or Fir. Most importantly, pine needles grow in bundles of two to five needles connected by a papery sheath at the base. This sheath connects to the stem on a branch and when pulled from the tree remains intact with all of the bundled needles staying together. When the needles in a sheath are compressed together, they form a circular column. Remember that Pines have "plural" needles.

Our old Ponderosa Pine tree in our front drive

Juniper and Arborvitae look very similar. If the tree has overlapping scale-like foliage with horizontal and vertical foliage sprays, it is a Juniper. If the scale-like foliage grows in vertical and flattened spays, it is an Arborvitae. Junipers tend to have prickly needles while Arborvitae have rounded tips. Juniper does well in many growing conditions and will tolerate dry locations very well; Arborvitae will not tolerate dry, windy conditions. Juniper grows upright like a single-trunk tree or as a spreading shrub; Arborvitae grows tall in a teardrop-shaped, dense form, usually with multiple trunks. The cones of both trees look like berries; Juniper have three to six scales that are fused together in a round ball while Arborvitae have thicker scales that tend to peel back into pointed tips.

That's it. With the basic information above you should be able to give yourself the confidence to correctly identify an evergreen tree. There are a few other conifers like Yew and Larch, but they aren't very common and you should know right off that they aren't pine trees.

With more practice and experience you can identify specific tree types. Pinon Pine, Mugo Pine, and Lodgepole Pine trees all have two needles in a bundle. Pinon Pine needles are medium green, have white stripes along the needle and are 1/2" to 1-3/4" long; Mugo Pine needles are dark green, 1" to 3" long and slightly curved; Lodgepole Pine needles are yellowish-green, 1" to 3" long and sharp and stiff with a slight twist.

Ponderosa Pine grows in bundles of three needles that are 4" to 7" long, sometimes longer. Both Bristlecone and Limber Pine trees have bundles of five needles, but the Bristlecone needles are shorter and clearly identified by the little white spots that cover them. Colorado Spruce needles are 3/4" to 1-1/4" long while Engelmann Spruce needles are only 1/4" to 1/2" long.

The first step in making an easy tree identification is to find out what kind of conifers grow in your area. Ask your local Extension office, nurseries, or tree growers for a listing of local trees. I live in an area forested by Ponderosa Pines. With my eyes closed I can identify trees in our neighborhood as Ponderosa because that's about all that we have so I've started growing Colorado Blue Spruce to break up the monotony. If you know that White Firs don't naturally grow in your area, you aren't likely to confuse them with Douglas Firs.

If you want to go beyond the basic identification I've described, get a tree identification book or online guide. Just like the different needles, conifers have differing cones (only Pine trees have Pine cones). They have different growth patterns and different environmental requirements. By knowing what to look for, you can correctly identify unknown varieties. Next time you walk through a forest, stop and feel the needles. You'll amaze yourself at how easy it is.

Lemon Tree Very Pretty

Like most gardeners, I closely observe the plants and plantings that I encounter every time I venture away from my own gardens, particularly ones that show up in unusual locations. Gardeners are a creative breed and I'm always looking for new ideas to copy or modify. Botanic gardens and city sidewalks offer great opportunities to see what professional designers and landscapers do when given space and money to fill it.

In an arid, budget-poor region with long, cold winters like mine, the downtown improvements tend to favor hardscape and sculptures rather than plants and gardens. We have city parks and school playgrounds to provide some greenery, but even those are suffering in a time of decreasing tax revenues and reduced park staff. Imagine my surprise during our recent visit to San Diego when I encountered a city awash in color and growth.

A lemon tree... in the city!

I felt immersed in nature while walking the concrete sidewalks. It was insidiousness in nature. It was so natural that at first it wasn't noticeable. After days of obliviously enjoying my surroundings, I was startled by a lemon tree growing out of a large pot plopped next to a traffic sign. Lemon trees are extinct in my part of the world and though my uncle in California has one in his back yard, I never imagined them as part of city flora. But there it was, burdened by ripening fruit overhanging a parked car, and ignored by passersby intent on reaching their destinations.

It seemed every downtown corner had a plot of flowers or vibrant succulents, in the ground or in a pot. Bougainvilleas lined sidewalks and fences. Unknown trees of varying size, shape, and texture were everywhere. The entire city was a park to be enjoyed. Above all, it appeared the designers and maintainers deeply cared about their creations and strove to make them burst with excitement and joy. It was difficult to identify the owner of any one offering and that implied the entire community was the designer, maintainer, and owner.

That is a concept that excites and encourages me as a gardener. Imagine living in a community where everyone takes part in the process of creating their environment. Where color and beauty and life surrounding you is a normal and expected part of your day. A community that is vibrant and colorful in action and attitude because of the plants that infuse life into the atmosphere.

Sure San Diego has the perfect climate for growing plants year-round. It's easy to have flowers and bushes and trees where almost anything can grow and it doesn't take much to produce a green thumb, but I've been to other places with similar climates that didn't offer the same vitality. I suspect the local tourist bureau is behind much of the activity, but that doesn't remotely lessen the impact of the scenery.

As a Master Gardener I've helped hundreds of people through classes, seminars, workshops, and one-on-one counseling. Yet we are still a community of a few individuals with an interest in gardening rather than one where the entirety is immersed in it. It would be nice if we could instill a similar sense of botanical ownership and belonging to the whole. I don't know how to make that happen, but I suspect it is with one plot and one pot at a time. Seeing the life in San Diego, I am motivated to play a greater role in increasing and improving life and vitality in my own community.

The public aspect of my gardens will be expanded. I'll add more color and variety for others to enjoy. Sharing my gardens with others is now more important. Sharing advice and plants with my neighbors will help them help themselves. Gardening is a "pay it forward" activity. By helping others, it allows them to help others still. If we all act, before long it will become second nature and then we'll be surrounded by nature every second. What are you doing or what can you do to improve your community with gardening?

Like most gardeners, I closely observe the plants and plantings that I encounter every time I venture away from my own gardens, particularly ones that show up in unusual locations. Gardeners are a creative breed and I'm always looking for new ideas to copy or modify. Botanic gardens and city sidewalks offer great opportunities to see what professional designers and landscapers do when given space and money to fill it.

In an arid, budget-poor region with long, cold winters like mine, the downtown improvements tend to favor hardscape and sculptures rather than plants and gardens. We have city parks and school playgrounds to provide some greenery, but even those are suffering in a time of decreasing tax revenues and reduced park staff. Imagine my surprise during our recent visit to San Diego when I encountered a city awash in color and growth.

A lemon tree... in the city!

I felt immersed in nature while walking the concrete sidewalks. It was insidiousness in nature. It was so natural that at first it wasn't noticeable. After days of obliviously enjoying my surroundings, I was startled by a lemon tree growing out of a large pot plopped next to a traffic sign. Lemon trees are extinct in my part of the world and though my uncle in California has one in his back yard, I never imagined them as part of city flora. But there it was, burdened by ripening fruit overhanging a parked car, and ignored by passersby intent on reaching their destinations.

It seemed every downtown corner had a plot of flowers or vibrant succulents, in the ground or in a pot. Bougainvilleas lined sidewalks and fences. Unknown trees of varying size, shape, and texture were everywhere. The entire city was a park to be enjoyed. Above all, it appeared the designers and maintainers deeply cared about their creations and strove to make them burst with excitement and joy. It was difficult to identify the owner of any one offering and that implied the entire community was the designer, maintainer, and owner.

That is a concept that excites and encourages me as a gardener. Imagine living in a community where everyone takes part in the process of creating their environment. Where color and beauty and life surrounding you is a normal and expected part of your day. A community that is vibrant and colorful in action and attitude because of the plants that infuse life into the atmosphere.

Sure San Diego has the perfect climate for growing plants year-round. It's easy to have flowers and bushes and trees where almost anything can grow and it doesn't take much to produce a green thumb, but I've been to other places with similar climates that didn't offer the same vitality. I suspect the local tourist bureau is behind much of the activity, but that doesn't remotely lessen the impact of the scenery.

As a Master Gardener I've helped hundreds of people through classes, seminars, workshops, and one-on-one counseling. Yet we are still a community of a few individuals with an interest in gardening rather than one where the entirety is immersed in it. It would be nice if we could instill a similar sense of botanical ownership and belonging to the whole. I don't know how to make that happen, but I suspect it is with one plot and one pot at a time. Seeing the life in San Diego, I am motivated to play a greater role in increasing and improving life and vitality in my own community.

The public aspect of my gardens will be expanded. I'll add more color and variety for others to enjoy. Sharing my gardens with others is now more important. Sharing advice and plants with my neighbors will help them help themselves. Gardening is a "pay it forward" activity. By helping others, it allows them to help others still. If we all act, before long it will become second nature and then we'll be surrounded by nature every second. What are you doing or what can you do to improve your community with gardening?