How to Thin Plants

Thinning plants in your vegetable garden can lead to bigger, better harvests. When plants are crowded with others they compete for water, sun, and nutrients and tend to be stunted and unproductive. When plants have plenty of room to grow they're more likely to perform well. Thinning plants also provides improved air circulation, helping reduce the likelihood of fungal diseases. Gardeners can give their plants the best chance for success by removing competition; this is thinning out the garden bed.

Thinning should not be confused with pruning. Pruning is the practice of removing branches and parts of a specific plant, thinning is removing the entire plant.

Carrots often need thinning

When you thin plants choose an appropriate method of removal. Small seedlings can be pulled from the ground. But be cognizant of nearby plants. If you yank one plant you may disturb the roots of its neighbor and effectively destroy both plants.

If plants are close together and you suspect pulling one of them will affect another, cut the plant to be thinned. Pruning shears or small scissors work well to cut the stem close to the ground. Cucumbers, beans, peas, squash, and melons have tender roots and are best thinned by cutting if the plants are anywhere near each other.

Thinning out a crowding cucumber

Plants that sit alone can be dug up with a trowel or shovel. Digging up a plant may provide the opportunity to transplant it to another location. I'll often thin out my flower beds and transplant the thinned seedlings to another part of the bed or pot them to be given away.

Thick groupings of plants like lettuce, spinach, and other greens can be thinned with a rake. When the plants are about an inch tall lightly drag a rake across the soil surface. The tines will remove some of the small plants while leaving others spaced apart.

When determining how to thin and how much space to provide, think about the final size of the plant.

Seed packets often provide guidance for thinning. A carrot seed packet says to thin to 1 to 3 inches; carrots are narrow and don't spread so you only need enough space for the big root to grow. An onion seed packet says to thin to 2 to 5 inches; onions grow bigger than carrots and need more room between them. Lettuce may need 8 or 10 inches, or more, depending on the size of the mature head.



Big, vining plants like squash take up a lot of garden space and thinning them enables the gardener to direct the growth. Thinning also controls the future harvest. I planted six zucchini seeds but I only want two plants; six plants would produce more zucchini than I could ever use while two is very manageable. The strongest, best-spaced plants remain.

These squash are too close together

Plants can be thinned at any stage of their life cycle, but it's most beneficial to do it when they're young. After the second set of true leaves emerges, seedlings are usually strong enough to survive. That's a good time to decide which ones stay and which ones go. Thinning small plants before they stunt the growth of a neighbor is better than waiting until after they become a problem.

You can delay thinning edible plants like lettuce, spinach, and beets until the leaves are big enough for a salad. Thin these out to give room for the remaining plants and then use them in the kitchen. Root crops like carrots, radishes, and turnips will be quite tasty when small; thin out these plants periodically at different sizes and eat them too.

I often conduct two phases of thinning. I'll remove seedlings before they stunt the growth of their neighbors and then wait a few weeks for the plants to get healthy and strong. Then I thin a second time to choose the strongest plants with the best spacing for the bed. This works particularly well for plants like squash and cucumbers when I want the biggest and healthiest plants headed into my short growing season.

The same squash, thinned once, will be thinned again

It's best to thin in the early evening with the soil damp. Damp soil allows small plants to be pulled easily and the absence of harsh sun allows the remaining plants to get used to their new conditions before immediate exposure to heat and light. Watering well after thinning a bed also gives the remaining plants an extra boost along with their newfound spacing.

It's possible to plant a garden and never thin out anything. Sowing seeds and placing transplants with perfect spacing between them means you don't need to remove overcrowded plantings. This can work well for big seeds like pumpkins and plants like tomatoes and peppers. I place them in my garden where I want them and wait for the harvest. I sow my beans and peas in a perfectly spaced grid that allows them to grow up a trellis; their seeds are big and easy to place. Blocks of corn are planted with ideal spacing too.

Many other seeds like carrots, lettuce, onions, and spinach are sown randomly in rows and then thinned out after the plants emerge. The seeds are too small to place with exact measurement and it's easier to wait to thin after germination reveals which small plants need to be removed. Other seeds like beets are easy to place but multiple plants will emerge from a single seed and then need to be thinned.

Plants with bigger seeds like cucumbers, melons, and squash are often sown closer together than the final plants will be. Varying rates of germination, insect damage, and uneven sowing means some plants will start off better than others. It's common to plant six of these kind of seeds in a mound, get four or five that grow, and then reduce them to two or three plants. This allows you to choose the biggest and best plants for that garden area.

This year I planted many, many pickling cucumber seeds in a raised bed. I've had problems in the past with low germination rates, sun and hail damage, and insects eating seedlings. Extra attention by me, and gentle, warm weather resulted in more than 80 plants emerging. That's many more than that bed can support so about 75 percent need to be thinned out. The remaining 20 plants should provide plenty of cucumbers. Because they won't have to compete for water, sun, and nutrients, those 20 plants will produce more fruit than 80 overcrowded plants in the same space.

Too many cucumbers for one bed

All of those seeds came from the same packet. Seed packets may provide dozens of seeds when you only need a handful of plants. Because seeds are only viable for one or two seasons it makes sense to plant many of them and select the ones you want after the plants begin to grow.



Emotionally, it can be difficult to thin out healthy plants. Most of us work hard to get our plants to grow and then we have to intentionally undo our labor. That's one reason I transplant the thinned out plants when I can. For those who are hesitant to thin, try an experiment. Thin half of a bed and let the other half grow as sown. At harvest or the end of the season, compare the two sections. Chances are the thinned half will be healthier and more productive.

When the thinned out plants find a place in the kitchen or compost pile you can gather solace by knowing that they served a purpose in the garden.

Like weeding, thinning is a necessary activity to keep garden plants healthy and productive. When done properly the beneficial results will be obvious.

Thinning plants in your vegetable garden can lead to bigger, better harvests. When plants are crowded with others they compete for water, sun, and nutrients and tend to be stunted and unproductive. When plants have plenty of room to grow they're more likely to perform well. Thinning plants also provides improved air circulation, helping reduce the likelihood of fungal diseases. Gardeners can give their plants the best chance for success by removing competition; this is thinning out the garden bed.

Thinning should not be confused with pruning. Pruning is the practice of removing branches and parts of a specific plant, thinning is removing the entire plant.

Carrots often need thinning

When you thin plants choose an appropriate method of removal. Small seedlings can be pulled from the ground. But be cognizant of nearby plants. If you yank one plant you may disturb the roots of its neighbor and effectively destroy both plants.

If plants are close together and you suspect pulling one of them will affect another, cut the plant to be thinned. Pruning shears or small scissors work well to cut the stem close to the ground. Cucumbers, beans, peas, squash, and melons have tender roots and are best thinned by cutting if the plants are anywhere near each other.

Thinning out a crowding cucumber

Plants that sit alone can be dug up with a trowel or shovel. Digging up a plant may provide the opportunity to transplant it to another location. I'll often thin out my flower beds and transplant the thinned seedlings to another part of the bed or pot them to be given away.

Thick groupings of plants like lettuce, spinach, and other greens can be thinned with a rake. When the plants are about an inch tall lightly drag a rake across the soil surface. The tines will remove some of the small plants while leaving others spaced apart.

When determining how to thin and how much space to provide, think about the final size of the plant.

Seed packets often provide guidance for thinning. A carrot seed packet says to thin to 1 to 3 inches; carrots are narrow and don't spread so you only need enough space for the big root to grow. An onion seed packet says to thin to 2 to 5 inches; onions grow bigger than carrots and need more room between them. Lettuce may need 8 or 10 inches, or more, depending on the size of the mature head.



Big, vining plants like squash take up a lot of garden space and thinning them enables the gardener to direct the growth. Thinning also controls the future harvest. I planted six zucchini seeds but I only want two plants; six plants would produce more zucchini than I could ever use while two is very manageable. The strongest, best-spaced plants remain.

These squash are too close together

Plants can be thinned at any stage of their life cycle, but it's most beneficial to do it when they're young. After the second set of true leaves emerges, seedlings are usually strong enough to survive. That's a good time to decide which ones stay and which ones go. Thinning small plants before they stunt the growth of a neighbor is better than waiting until after they become a problem.

You can delay thinning edible plants like lettuce, spinach, and beets until the leaves are big enough for a salad. Thin these out to give room for the remaining plants and then use them in the kitchen. Root crops like carrots, radishes, and turnips will be quite tasty when small; thin out these plants periodically at different sizes and eat them too.

I often conduct two phases of thinning. I'll remove seedlings before they stunt the growth of their neighbors and then wait a few weeks for the plants to get healthy and strong. Then I thin a second time to choose the strongest plants with the best spacing for the bed. This works particularly well for plants like squash and cucumbers when I want the biggest and healthiest plants headed into my short growing season.

The same squash, thinned once, will be thinned again

It's best to thin in the early evening with the soil damp. Damp soil allows small plants to be pulled easily and the absence of harsh sun allows the remaining plants to get used to their new conditions before immediate exposure to heat and light. Watering well after thinning a bed also gives the remaining plants an extra boost along with their newfound spacing.

It's possible to plant a garden and never thin out anything. Sowing seeds and placing transplants with perfect spacing between them means you don't need to remove overcrowded plantings. This can work well for big seeds like pumpkins and plants like tomatoes and peppers. I place them in my garden where I want them and wait for the harvest. I sow my beans and peas in a perfectly spaced grid that allows them to grow up a trellis; their seeds are big and easy to place. Blocks of corn are planted with ideal spacing too.

Many other seeds like carrots, lettuce, onions, and spinach are sown randomly in rows and then thinned out after the plants emerge. The seeds are too small to place with exact measurement and it's easier to wait to thin after germination reveals which small plants need to be removed. Other seeds like beets are easy to place but multiple plants will emerge from a single seed and then need to be thinned.

Plants with bigger seeds like cucumbers, melons, and squash are often sown closer together than the final plants will be. Varying rates of germination, insect damage, and uneven sowing means some plants will start off better than others. It's common to plant six of these kind of seeds in a mound, get four or five that grow, and then reduce them to two or three plants. This allows you to choose the biggest and best plants for that garden area.

This year I planted many, many pickling cucumber seeds in a raised bed. I've had problems in the past with low germination rates, sun and hail damage, and insects eating seedlings. Extra attention by me, and gentle, warm weather resulted in more than 80 plants emerging. That's many more than that bed can support so about 75 percent need to be thinned out. The remaining 20 plants should provide plenty of cucumbers. Because they won't have to compete for water, sun, and nutrients, those 20 plants will produce more fruit than 80 overcrowded plants in the same space.

Too many cucumbers for one bed

All of those seeds came from the same packet. Seed packets may provide dozens of seeds when you only need a handful of plants. Because seeds are only viable for one or two seasons it makes sense to plant many of them and select the ones you want after the plants begin to grow.



Emotionally, it can be difficult to thin out healthy plants. Most of us work hard to get our plants to grow and then we have to intentionally undo our labor. That's one reason I transplant the thinned out plants when I can. For those who are hesitant to thin, try an experiment. Thin half of a bed and let the other half grow as sown. At harvest or the end of the season, compare the two sections. Chances are the thinned half will be healthier and more productive.

When the thinned out plants find a place in the kitchen or compost pile you can gather solace by knowing that they served a purpose in the garden.

Like weeding, thinning is a necessary activity to keep garden plants healthy and productive. When done properly the beneficial results will be obvious.

Pruning Fruit Trees in the Home Garden

Late winter and early spring are the best times of year to prune fruit trees. Pruning before spring bud break allows the tree to send energy and growth to the branches that you choose with selective pruning. If you wait until the tree is actively growing you waste some of the tree's energy resources and increase the chance of harmful pests and disease invading through the wounds that pruning creates.

Fruit trees in the home garden grow best when they are pruned and trained while young. Proper pruning results in a stronger, healthier tree with the potential for more and bigger fruit. When done correctly, older trees will need almost no pruning as they produce an abundance of fruit in later years.

A dwarf apple tree in the garden

Many trees that gardeners purchase arrive as bare-root "whips" with few or no side branches. These small, spindly specimens resemble a stick with just a few roots at a twisted base to identify it as a tree. After planting according to appropriate instructions, prune the top of the whip about three feet (one meter) above the soil line. Make your pruning cut about 1/4 inch (.6 centimeters) above an obvious bud. This helps to promote growth of new branches in the first year.

If you plant a container-grown tree, try to keep as many branches as possible in the first year. Only cut off twigs and branches that are obviously dead or broken. Even weak and small branches will produce leaves that will help increase root development.

In the second year, after becoming established, you can begin to remove branches to help the tree achieve maximum growth. The idea is to train your tree by keeping branches that are strong, healthy, and well-spaced for even growth. Remove branches that are interfering with others, that are broken, and that are poorly or unevenly spaced.

Both of these branches obviously need pruning

Look for multiple branches that are all emerging from the same spot on the trunk. If left to grow they will create a weak point. By removing all but one or maybe two of these branches you are increasing the tree's structure and strength.

The multiple branches on the lower left will create future problems

Look for branches that emerge from the trunk at a sharp angle; the ones that are growing nearly vertically, close to the trunk. These branches will grow into weak limbs that can break easily in later years. You want to remove them and keep the other branches that angle out evenly.

In the second year I'll keep extra branches on some whips, even if they aren't perfectly spaced. If you remove too many branches too soon, you affect root development and that results in a weaker tree.

In the third year continue removing the interfering and multiple branches. Remove weak and broken ones. You'll probably begin seeing "suckers", the branches that emerge close to the base of the tree at ground level. Prune all the suckers. They have no benefit and will rob the tree of nutrients.

These suckers have to go

The third year is also when you can usually begin to develop the shape of your future fruit tree. It's important to remember that branches never grow up with the tree. A branch that is two feet above the soil will always be two feet above the soil. If you want a tree with a nice spot for climbing or sitting, anticipate the appropriate height and prune accordingly.

My fruit trees are at this point and I've pruned off many of the lower branches. They are beginning to look like trees and I'm beginning to visualize where I want the base branches to be in the future. With my harsh winters I don't want to get too aggressive too early in the life of the tree. I'll keep options available by keeping branches unpruned three and four feet high. I know the branches below that aren't needed so they can go.

My apple tree is cleaned up and ready for spring

For all pruning cuts I look for the bark ridge and branch collar. When you look closely where the branch grows out from the trunk you'll see wrinkled bark at the top of the crotch; that's the bark ridge. The base of the branch is broader and more bulbous, almost like shoulders; that's the collar. Cuts should be just outside the collar, not cutting into either the bark ridge or collar. The cut will be at an angle to the vertical trunk. That allows the tree trunk to grow around the cut, sealing it and protecting the tree from future damage or disease.

Cutting just outside the branch collar

Never make a flush cut, right against the trunk. It may look look like it's right and is recommended by some arborists and "experts", but it can severely impact the tree. The cells that grow into a protective barrier are located in the branch collar. If you cut into the collar or through it, the tree can't grow properly to seal the cut. You've created a wound that is open to disease organisms and to insect pests.

You don't need wound dressing either. When pruned correctly, the cut will begin healing soon. Applying paint or dressing offers no benefit and can aid disease organisms by giving them protective cover. Just leave the the cut alone to heal naturally.

Remember one of the primary reasons for pruning in late winter or early spring is to reduce the chance that harmful organisms are present. As soon as the tree springs to life with warming weather, pruning cuts will begin to heal along with the new green growth.

By focusing on correct pruning when fruit trees are young you save yourself effort and worry compared to when the trees are older. It's much easier to remove a branch that is only half an inch (1.3 centimeters) thick than it is to deal with it when it is four inches (10 cm) wide. If you allow weak branches to grow, they can break under the weight of heavy fruit or snow, possibly endangering the life if the entire tree.

Once you begin to regularly prune, it becomes a quick activity. Major sculpting and forming of the tree's shape is done early when branches are small and easy to cut. Each subsequent year you only need to remove branches that are broken, dying, or have a problem. For half a dozen fruit trees the yearly pruning can be completed in about an hour.

I look forward to my annual pruning. Throughout the year I observe how the trees are growing and try to visualize their future shape. When they are dormant, with leaves gone, I can accurately see which branches will best suit the desired growth and prune accordingly. With each new season's growth I analyze and critique my decision and modify the next year's pruning as needed.

A healthy and well-shaped fruit tree will enhance any home garden. It just takes a little effort and foresight to give you a strong chance of success.

For more information about pruning trees, particularly older trees, see my article "Trees Like Prunes."

Late winter and early spring are the best times of year to prune fruit trees. Pruning before spring bud break allows the tree to send energy and growth to the branches that you choose with selective pruning. If you wait until the tree is actively growing you waste some of the tree's energy resources and increase the chance of harmful pests and disease invading through the wounds that pruning creates.

Fruit trees in the home garden grow best when they are pruned and trained while young. Proper pruning results in a stronger, healthier tree with the potential for more and bigger fruit. When done correctly, older trees will need almost no pruning as they produce an abundance of fruit in later years.

A dwarf apple tree in the garden

Many trees that gardeners purchase arrive as bare-root "whips" with few or no side branches. These small, spindly specimens resemble a stick with just a few roots at a twisted base to identify it as a tree. After planting according to appropriate instructions, prune the top of the whip about three feet (one meter) above the soil line. Make your pruning cut about 1/4 inch (.6 centimeters) above an obvious bud. This helps to promote growth of new branches in the first year.

If you plant a container-grown tree, try to keep as many branches as possible in the first year. Only cut off twigs and branches that are obviously dead or broken. Even weak and small branches will produce leaves that will help increase root development.

In the second year, after becoming established, you can begin to remove branches to help the tree achieve maximum growth. The idea is to train your tree by keeping branches that are strong, healthy, and well-spaced for even growth. Remove branches that are interfering with others, that are broken, and that are poorly or unevenly spaced.

Both of these branches obviously need pruning

Look for multiple branches that are all emerging from the same spot on the trunk. If left to grow they will create a weak point. By removing all but one or maybe two of these branches you are increasing the tree's structure and strength.

The multiple branches on the lower left will create future problems

Look for branches that emerge from the trunk at a sharp angle; the ones that are growing nearly vertically, close to the trunk. These branches will grow into weak limbs that can break easily in later years. You want to remove them and keep the other branches that angle out evenly.

In the second year I'll keep extra branches on some whips, even if they aren't perfectly spaced. If you remove too many branches too soon, you affect root development and that results in a weaker tree.

In the third year continue removing the interfering and multiple branches. Remove weak and broken ones. You'll probably begin seeing "suckers", the branches that emerge close to the base of the tree at ground level. Prune all the suckers. They have no benefit and will rob the tree of nutrients.

These suckers have to go

The third year is also when you can usually begin to develop the shape of your future fruit tree. It's important to remember that branches never grow up with the tree. A branch that is two feet above the soil will always be two feet above the soil. If you want a tree with a nice spot for climbing or sitting, anticipate the appropriate height and prune accordingly.

My fruit trees are at this point and I've pruned off many of the lower branches. They are beginning to look like trees and I'm beginning to visualize where I want the base branches to be in the future. With my harsh winters I don't want to get too aggressive too early in the life of the tree. I'll keep options available by keeping branches unpruned three and four feet high. I know the branches below that aren't needed so they can go.

My apple tree is cleaned up and ready for spring

For all pruning cuts I look for the bark ridge and branch collar. When you look closely where the branch grows out from the trunk you'll see wrinkled bark at the top of the crotch; that's the bark ridge. The base of the branch is broader and more bulbous, almost like shoulders; that's the collar. Cuts should be just outside the collar, not cutting into either the bark ridge or collar. The cut will be at an angle to the vertical trunk. That allows the tree trunk to grow around the cut, sealing it and protecting the tree from future damage or disease.

Cutting just outside the branch collar

Never make a flush cut, right against the trunk. It may look look like it's right and is recommended by some arborists and "experts", but it can severely impact the tree. The cells that grow into a protective barrier are located in the branch collar. If you cut into the collar or through it, the tree can't grow properly to seal the cut. You've created a wound that is open to disease organisms and to insect pests.

You don't need wound dressing either. When pruned correctly, the cut will begin healing soon. Applying paint or dressing offers no benefit and can aid disease organisms by giving them protective cover. Just leave the the cut alone to heal naturally.

Remember one of the primary reasons for pruning in late winter or early spring is to reduce the chance that harmful organisms are present. As soon as the tree springs to life with warming weather, pruning cuts will begin to heal along with the new green growth.

By focusing on correct pruning when fruit trees are young you save yourself effort and worry compared to when the trees are older. It's much easier to remove a branch that is only half an inch (1.3 centimeters) thick than it is to deal with it when it is four inches (10 cm) wide. If you allow weak branches to grow, they can break under the weight of heavy fruit or snow, possibly endangering the life if the entire tree.

Once you begin to regularly prune, it becomes a quick activity. Major sculpting and forming of the tree's shape is done early when branches are small and easy to cut. Each subsequent year you only need to remove branches that are broken, dying, or have a problem. For half a dozen fruit trees the yearly pruning can be completed in about an hour.

I look forward to my annual pruning. Throughout the year I observe how the trees are growing and try to visualize their future shape. When they are dormant, with leaves gone, I can accurately see which branches will best suit the desired growth and prune accordingly. With each new season's growth I analyze and critique my decision and modify the next year's pruning as needed.

A healthy and well-shaped fruit tree will enhance any home garden. It just takes a little effort and foresight to give you a strong chance of success.

For more information about pruning trees, particularly older trees, see my article "Trees Like Prunes."

Getting Big Pumpkins

Pumpkins grow in many gardens. Harvesting the big, orange globes in autumn and carving them for Halloween is part of Americana. Made into pumpkin pie, they provide a delectable treat. For many of us, we want a lot of pumpkins and we like them big, but as the growing season wanes those desires are at odds with each other. Often, you can have many pumpkins or you can have large pumpkins, but you can't have both.

A pumpkin and pumpkin flower

Pumpkins are basically a squash. Like most squash plants, they will keep producing flowers and small fruit until a freeze hits. A typical pumpkin plant will have only two primary vines, but will have numerous flowers develop along their lengths as they continually creep beyond the confines of their growing space. The flowers are either male or female with just one goal in mind: make baby pumpkins.

Like all other plants, they put a lot of effort into developing the baby pumpkins. To the plant it doesn't matter how big the fruit grows as long as it produces seeds to enable the pumpkin family to continue for future generations. So the plant churns out a lot of flowers and a lot of baby pumpkins. A lot of small, baby pumpkins. Humans, particularly Americans, think bigger is better.

To get big fruit you need to threaten the plant. When the vines have many babies growing along them, they'll send relatively equal amount of nutrients to each so that they can all grow and develop. When some of those offspring suddenly disappear, the plant boosts the energy to the remaining fruit so that they'll grow quickly and overcome whatever catastrophe caused the loss.

You need to be that catastrophe. With just a few weeks before the first frost, time becomes an adversary when it comes to growing big pumpkins. By plucking off flowers and pruning very small fruit, you divert extra energy to the remaining parts of the plant. When only one or two pumpkins remain on the vine, all of the energy from those large, elephant-ear leaves flows to them. The boost is enough to cause a perceptible size increase.

To get big pumpkins, first look at the flowers. After you have the young pumpkins on the vine, remove the flowers that can develop into competition. To make it easy, remove them all. To save effort, look closely at them. Male flowers will be on long, thin stalks. Female flowers will grow on shorter stalks with a very small bulb at their base; that is the baby pumpkin in the making. You really only need to remove the female flowers to prevent additional pumpkins.

Many flowers on a vine with just one small fruit

Don't act too quickly, though. Wait until your chosen fruit is at least the size of a softball. It's not unusual for baby pumpkins to shrivel on the vine. The plant does its own job of selective pruning when a fruit is competing too much with a neighbor or if it isn't ideally located on the vine. You don't want your favorite baby to be one that the plant sacrifices at the same time you're removing all other potential pumpkins.

You can also remove fruit of any size that has already developed in an effort to boost the size of the remaining ones. Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to separate them from the plant. The vines can be prickly so it's a good idea to wear gloves. How many you remove is up to you.

A typical vine will produce up to five pumpkins, potentially more. Competitive pumpkin growers will select the single, fastest-growing pumpkin on a plant and remove all others. That's one way they grow monstrous pumpkins. If you're growing for Halloween carving, you may want to keep one or two of the pumpkins that are perfectly shaped and remove ones that don't match up. If you're going for size, keep the biggest and remove all of the small, developing ones. If you want quantity, be happy with the three or four that are doing best and sacrifice the rest; accept that they all won't reach their full size potential.

My best vine has two pumpkins that are already growing past 10 inches in diameter. They look great and I'm very happy with them. Another on that vine is about eight inches and there's one more about the size of an orange. Though I'd like all four, the smallest just doesn't have enough time to develop in the two or three weeks remaining before our potential first frost. To benefit the other three, it has to go.

My wife planted her own vines in a separate bed a few weeks after I did. The late start is reflected in the size of her pumpkins. They are just now approaching the softball stage. To have any hope of sizable fruit on her plants we have been systematically removing all of the flowers and will soon remove some of the small pumpkins once we determine the best candidates. We may be left with a single pumpkin on each vine to hope for a harvest.

Removing the competition

Pumpkins are up to 90 percent water and pruning the plant will induce stress so be sure to continue watering the vines. You don't want to overdo it with saturated soil, but just because there are fewer pumpkins on the vine it doesn't mean the plant's water needs have decreased. Continue normal irrigation.

You probably aren't growing a champion pumpkin over 1810 pounds (the current record). You just want some that will delight your kids or grandkids, or make a good pie. I don't like to unnecessarily harm or prune any plant, but when it comes to pumpkins, selective pruning will provide the best results. In many respects, for pumpkins size does matter.

Pumpkins grow in many gardens. Harvesting the big, orange globes in autumn and carving them for Halloween is part of Americana. Made into pumpkin pie, they provide a delectable treat. For many of us, we want a lot of pumpkins and we like them big, but as the growing season wanes those desires are at odds with each other. Often, you can have many pumpkins or you can have large pumpkins, but you can't have both.

A pumpkin and pumpkin flower

Pumpkins are basically a squash. Like most squash plants, they will keep producing flowers and small fruit until a freeze hits. A typical pumpkin plant will have only two primary vines, but will have numerous flowers develop along their lengths as they continually creep beyond the confines of their growing space. The flowers are either male or female with just one goal in mind: make baby pumpkins.

Like all other plants, they put a lot of effort into developing the baby pumpkins. To the plant it doesn't matter how big the fruit grows as long as it produces seeds to enable the pumpkin family to continue for future generations. So the plant churns out a lot of flowers and a lot of baby pumpkins. A lot of small, baby pumpkins. Humans, particularly Americans, think bigger is better.

To get big fruit you need to threaten the plant. When the vines have many babies growing along them, they'll send relatively equal amount of nutrients to each so that they can all grow and develop. When some of those offspring suddenly disappear, the plant boosts the energy to the remaining fruit so that they'll grow quickly and overcome whatever catastrophe caused the loss.

You need to be that catastrophe. With just a few weeks before the first frost, time becomes an adversary when it comes to growing big pumpkins. By plucking off flowers and pruning very small fruit, you divert extra energy to the remaining parts of the plant. When only one or two pumpkins remain on the vine, all of the energy from those large, elephant-ear leaves flows to them. The boost is enough to cause a perceptible size increase.

To get big pumpkins, first look at the flowers. After you have the young pumpkins on the vine, remove the flowers that can develop into competition. To make it easy, remove them all. To save effort, look closely at them. Male flowers will be on long, thin stalks. Female flowers will grow on shorter stalks with a very small bulb at their base; that is the baby pumpkin in the making. You really only need to remove the female flowers to prevent additional pumpkins.

Many flowers on a vine with just one small fruit

Don't act too quickly, though. Wait until your chosen fruit is at least the size of a softball. It's not unusual for baby pumpkins to shrivel on the vine. The plant does its own job of selective pruning when a fruit is competing too much with a neighbor or if it isn't ideally located on the vine. You don't want your favorite baby to be one that the plant sacrifices at the same time you're removing all other potential pumpkins.

You can also remove fruit of any size that has already developed in an effort to boost the size of the remaining ones. Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to separate them from the plant. The vines can be prickly so it's a good idea to wear gloves. How many you remove is up to you.

A typical vine will produce up to five pumpkins, potentially more. Competitive pumpkin growers will select the single, fastest-growing pumpkin on a plant and remove all others. That's one way they grow monstrous pumpkins. If you're growing for Halloween carving, you may want to keep one or two of the pumpkins that are perfectly shaped and remove ones that don't match up. If you're going for size, keep the biggest and remove all of the small, developing ones. If you want quantity, be happy with the three or four that are doing best and sacrifice the rest; accept that they all won't reach their full size potential.

My best vine has two pumpkins that are already growing past 10 inches in diameter. They look great and I'm very happy with them. Another on that vine is about eight inches and there's one more about the size of an orange. Though I'd like all four, the smallest just doesn't have enough time to develop in the two or three weeks remaining before our potential first frost. To benefit the other three, it has to go.

My wife planted her own vines in a separate bed a few weeks after I did. The late start is reflected in the size of her pumpkins. They are just now approaching the softball stage. To have any hope of sizable fruit on her plants we have been systematically removing all of the flowers and will soon remove some of the small pumpkins once we determine the best candidates. We may be left with a single pumpkin on each vine to hope for a harvest.

Removing the competition

Pumpkins are up to 90 percent water and pruning the plant will induce stress so be sure to continue watering the vines. You don't want to overdo it with saturated soil, but just because there are fewer pumpkins on the vine it doesn't mean the plant's water needs have decreased. Continue normal irrigation.

You probably aren't growing a champion pumpkin over 1810 pounds (the current record). You just want some that will delight your kids or grandkids, or make a good pie. I don't like to unnecessarily harm or prune any plant, but when it comes to pumpkins, selective pruning will provide the best results. In many respects, for pumpkins size does matter.

How to Butcher a Tree

There's a right way to prune a tree and there's definitely many wrong ways to prune a tree. It's heartbreaking to see how the utilities company destroyed a number of my pine trees this week through wanton disregard for correct pruning practice. In an effort to free power lines from potential branch encroachment, they lopped off all of the tree tops, effectively eliminating any future vertical growth.

I didn't plant these trees. They were either planted or selectively thinned by the person who lived here a few decades ago. They now stand, in their abused state, as an example of what can happen if you don't anticipate future growth of any plant you choose to add to your landscape. I have to assume that the power lines were installed when the house was built. The trees were placed as a visual and physical border separating the front yard from the road about the same time, beneath the power lines.

Though not directly under the lines, their growth pattern put them close. After many years with no problems and many years when the utilities company saw no issues, some of the upper branches were growing within a few feet of live, electric lines. When I saw the tree-cutting crew arrive, I assumed they would only cut off the branches that might pose problems. Of course you know what happens when you assume. They sheared off the top third of the trees; I suspect that is company policy when it comes to clearing lines.

Before.

Now the tops are gone.

I suppose what annoys me the most is that I understand how trees grow and assumed that a "trained" tree-cutting crew also knew how trees grow (there's that word again). With selective and appropriate pruning the lines could be cleared of any possible branch problems and the trees would have retained their ability to grow and look like trees. Now they're hacked to the point that I will have to remove many of them.

As you know, trees grow vertically. Pine trees grow with a central leader. That's the single trunk from which all of the branches spread. Occasionally you might see a tree with another leader challenging for supremacy, but the typical pattern is one central trunk. That pinnacle grows higher every year. As it climbs, new buds and new branches appear and add to the structure.

Older branches, closer to the base, continue to thicken and grow. The interesting point about branches is that they'll always stay in the same spot. A branch that is three feet off the ground will always be three feet off the ground. A tree like a pine achieves its conical shape because the older branches at the bottom spread out laterally as they grow bigger. The new branches at the top are smaller and closer to the main trunk. In time they will get thicker and longer and add to the conical shape for newer, smaller branches above.

If you cut off the pine's central leader, this growth cycle is destroyed. No new vertical growth will happen and no new branches will appear. The lower branches will continue to get bigger and eventually the tree will look like a big, squat cylinder. The branches at the top will spread horizontally at about the same distance as the lower ones. Gone is the classic conical pine tree.

The tree decapitated.

The primary lesson here, and one that I've written about before, is that you need to anticipate the future when you plant. I planted two fruit trees about 30 feet apart last year. They look odd, these two small trees standing, seemingly, all by themselves in the expanse of yard. But these are full size apple and cherry trees that should each have a spread of about 25 feet when fully grown, nearly 15 feet on each side. When viewed in that context, these trees will be nearly bumping up to each other many years from now.

I have a single Golden Rain Tree standing by itself in the middle of the field. When it reaches a potential 40-feet height and 30-feet spread, it will visually dominate the area. I have the patience to wait for that and the vision to plan for it.

From a single mint plant that may potentially overrun your garden to a few raspberry canes that may do the same, you need to think about a plant's growth pattern when selecting the best location. Typical vegetable gardens are easy because most of the plants will be gone at the end of the season; you only need to be concerned about the ones that will survive the winter. For perennial plants, bushes, hedges, and trees, you need to think about how they'll look in a year, in two, in five, and beyond that.

Don't plant young trees close together unless you intend on thinning them out as they grow. Don't plant trees next to your house or near power lines or other structures, unless you want to worry about how to remove them when they get too big. Don't plant trees in your garden unless you have a plan for the shade that will inevitably expand each year.

I'm trying to decide what to do with my front yard now that the trees are a macabre spectacle. They really do need to come down and be put out of their misery. Any replacement trees need to be low-growing ones. I'll probably go with shrubs and bushes, in addition to ones I already have planted. With the trees gone there will be enough sun for colorful perennials to highlight the entry drive. The whole personality of the front entrance will be different and offer another blank palette for my gardening desires.

If given the choice, I would prefer the trees not to have been assaulted. In our forested neighborhood, they looked very natural. Lack of trees is more unnatural. If you have a choice, plant carefully. If you don't, you may be victim of a tree-maiming crew in the future.

There's a right way to prune a tree and there's definitely many wrong ways to prune a tree. It's heartbreaking to see how the utilities company destroyed a number of my pine trees this week through wanton disregard for correct pruning practice. In an effort to free power lines from potential branch encroachment, they lopped off all of the tree tops, effectively eliminating any future vertical growth.

I didn't plant these trees. They were either planted or selectively thinned by the person who lived here a few decades ago. They now stand, in their abused state, as an example of what can happen if you don't anticipate future growth of any plant you choose to add to your landscape. I have to assume that the power lines were installed when the house was built. The trees were placed as a visual and physical border separating the front yard from the road about the same time, beneath the power lines.

Though not directly under the lines, their growth pattern put them close. After many years with no problems and many years when the utilities company saw no issues, some of the upper branches were growing within a few feet of live, electric lines. When I saw the tree-cutting crew arrive, I assumed they would only cut off the branches that might pose problems. Of course you know what happens when you assume. They sheared off the top third of the trees; I suspect that is company policy when it comes to clearing lines.

Before.

Now the tops are gone.

I suppose what annoys me the most is that I understand how trees grow and assumed that a "trained" tree-cutting crew also knew how trees grow (there's that word again). With selective and appropriate pruning the lines could be cleared of any possible branch problems and the trees would have retained their ability to grow and look like trees. Now they're hacked to the point that I will have to remove many of them.

As you know, trees grow vertically. Pine trees grow with a central leader. That's the single trunk from which all of the branches spread. Occasionally you might see a tree with another leader challenging for supremacy, but the typical pattern is one central trunk. That pinnacle grows higher every year. As it climbs, new buds and new branches appear and add to the structure.

Older branches, closer to the base, continue to thicken and grow. The interesting point about branches is that they'll always stay in the same spot. A branch that is three feet off the ground will always be three feet off the ground. A tree like a pine achieves its conical shape because the older branches at the bottom spread out laterally as they grow bigger. The new branches at the top are smaller and closer to the main trunk. In time they will get thicker and longer and add to the conical shape for newer, smaller branches above.

If you cut off the pine's central leader, this growth cycle is destroyed. No new vertical growth will happen and no new branches will appear. The lower branches will continue to get bigger and eventually the tree will look like a big, squat cylinder. The branches at the top will spread horizontally at about the same distance as the lower ones. Gone is the classic conical pine tree.

The tree decapitated.

The primary lesson here, and one that I've written about before, is that you need to anticipate the future when you plant. I planted two fruit trees about 30 feet apart last year. They look odd, these two small trees standing, seemingly, all by themselves in the expanse of yard. But these are full size apple and cherry trees that should each have a spread of about 25 feet when fully grown, nearly 15 feet on each side. When viewed in that context, these trees will be nearly bumping up to each other many years from now.

I have a single Golden Rain Tree standing by itself in the middle of the field. When it reaches a potential 40-feet height and 30-feet spread, it will visually dominate the area. I have the patience to wait for that and the vision to plan for it.

From a single mint plant that may potentially overrun your garden to a few raspberry canes that may do the same, you need to think about a plant's growth pattern when selecting the best location. Typical vegetable gardens are easy because most of the plants will be gone at the end of the season; you only need to be concerned about the ones that will survive the winter. For perennial plants, bushes, hedges, and trees, you need to think about how they'll look in a year, in two, in five, and beyond that.

Don't plant young trees close together unless you intend on thinning them out as they grow. Don't plant trees next to your house or near power lines or other structures, unless you want to worry about how to remove them when they get too big. Don't plant trees in your garden unless you have a plan for the shade that will inevitably expand each year.

I'm trying to decide what to do with my front yard now that the trees are a macabre spectacle. They really do need to come down and be put out of their misery. Any replacement trees need to be low-growing ones. I'll probably go with shrubs and bushes, in addition to ones I already have planted. With the trees gone there will be enough sun for colorful perennials to highlight the entry drive. The whole personality of the front entrance will be different and offer another blank palette for my gardening desires.

If given the choice, I would prefer the trees not to have been assaulted. In our forested neighborhood, they looked very natural. Lack of trees is more unnatural. If you have a choice, plant carefully. If you don't, you may be victim of a tree-maiming crew in the future.

Trees Like Prunes

January and February are perfect for most tree pruning. While you can prune trees almost any time of the year, now is a good time because you can see the internal structure of deciduous trees with the leaves off, trees are dormant and pruning stress is less severe, and there aren't many other outside gardening activities to do. Late winter to early spring is when most experts recommend heavy tree pruning and if you look at the calendar, that's now.

There are a few primary reasons to prune trees. The USDA lists three: safety, health, and aesthetics. I prune for all of these reasons.

Safety pruning covers many areas. There were trees in our yard that interfered with mowing the lawn. Invariably I would hit my head or impale myself while riding the mower. I took off many of those branches. That's pruning for safety. If you keep having to duck under a branch on a path you might consider removing it. I cut off pine branches that hindered the view out of the windshield as we drove from our driveway onto the road. If weak or over-sized branches begin to interfere with power lines or overhang your house, removing them is a good idea.

This branch is too low.

One of the main reasons I prune is for aesthetic value. Trees are a major component in any garden's appeal; a good-looking tree can benefit the garden and landscape. The aesthetics are a personal choice. I like a balanced look in trees with branches looking natural, yet orderly. I'll prune branches that are too close together or that aren't symmetrical to neighboring ones. It brings out the artist in me as I sculpt the landscape through selective removal of limbs.

This small branch grew up, then crossed over and down. It was unsightly.

The health of the tree is the third primary reason. Diseased or infested limbs should always be removed. If snow or wind breaks a branch, pruning the affected limb correctly can improve healing. I look for crowded areas of growth and prune to increase airflow and light throughout the tree; this can lessen pest problems. I also look for branches that are interfering with others and prune to allow proper growth.

A dead branch that needed to go.

Pruning is more than just cutting off a branch. There's a right way to do it; if done correctly, the tree will naturally cover up the wound and heal well. If the pruning cut is bad, the tree may be more susceptible to insect damage, disease, or rot.

For thinning out branches, cutting off twigs from a limb is as simple as clipping or sawing it cleanly and evenly. You want to avoid leaving nubs that stick out; remove as much of the twig or branch as you can.

For removal cuts next to the trunk you'll want to determine the proper cutting angle. Look for the branch collar and branch bark ridge. These are technical names for the bulges at the base of branches. The collar is the thicker band of growth at the bottom of the branch where it grows from the trunk; the bark ridge is the crumbled area at the top where the bark of the trunk meets the bark of the branch. If a branch is cut off just outside the branch collar, about 1/4 inch, tree tissue will grow over the cut like a donut and protect it from decay. Ideally you'll want to prune off branches before they reach two inches thick. The cut will rarely be flush with the trunk and usually angles out slightly from the top to the bottom.

A cut covered with dried sap and beginning to heal

For particularly large limbs, make an initial shallow cut into the bottom of the branch about six inches or so outside the branch collar; this is to reduce the chance that the bark will strip off in the next step. Then cut completely through the branch a few inches beyond that. The third and final cut should be just outside the branch collar. Because you've already removed most of the branch, the weight and size of the final piece you're removing is very manageable.

Branches awaiting the final cut.

Some trees like elms and maples will "bleed" when cut during the winter. The oozing sap can drip for days before drying out and beginning the healing process. That's why maple syrup growers harvest the sap at this time of year. For those trees I prefer to wait until late spring or early summer. I pruned my Silver Maple at that time and had fewer problems with oozing.

I don't recommend putting a dressing on the cut. It used to be thought that applying something like a poultice to a tree wound would promote healing and protect it from harmful organisms. It's found that the opposite is often true.

Some of my pruning tools.

The tools for pruning are pretty simple. I prefer bypass pruning shears versus anvil shears for cutting small twigs; the anvil doesn't allow as close a cut in my opinion. Loppers are bigger two-handed versions of shears and cut finger size branches with no problem. Pruning saws and Japanese saws are hand-size tools that cut quickly through medium-sized limbs. A bow saw makes short work of thicker branches. And a chainsaw is unrivaled for big cuts. For tall branches, a telescoping pole pruner can reach ten feet high or more.

With practice, pruning is quick, easy, and benefits the tree and the aesthetics of the garden. Pruning fruit trees can be more complex and I'll cover that in another article. There are other issues when pruning bushes and I'll cover that later too. For now, take a good, hard look at your trees. Look for damaged branches, unsightly branches, overcrowded branches, and annoying branches. Remove them and have fun with it.

January and February are perfect for most tree pruning. While you can prune trees almost any time of the year, now is a good time because you can see the internal structure of deciduous trees with the leaves off, trees are dormant and pruning stress is less severe, and there aren't many other outside gardening activities to do. Late winter to early spring is when most experts recommend heavy tree pruning and if you look at the calendar, that's now.

There are a few primary reasons to prune trees. The USDA lists three: safety, health, and aesthetics. I prune for all of these reasons.

Safety pruning covers many areas. There were trees in our yard that interfered with mowing the lawn. Invariably I would hit my head or impale myself while riding the mower. I took off many of those branches. That's pruning for safety. If you keep having to duck under a branch on a path you might consider removing it. I cut off pine branches that hindered the view out of the windshield as we drove from our driveway onto the road. If weak or over-sized branches begin to interfere with power lines or overhang your house, removing them is a good idea.

This branch is too low.

One of the main reasons I prune is for aesthetic value. Trees are a major component in any garden's appeal; a good-looking tree can benefit the garden and landscape. The aesthetics are a personal choice. I like a balanced look in trees with branches looking natural, yet orderly. I'll prune branches that are too close together or that aren't symmetrical to neighboring ones. It brings out the artist in me as I sculpt the landscape through selective removal of limbs.

This small branch grew up, then crossed over and down. It was unsightly.

The health of the tree is the third primary reason. Diseased or infested limbs should always be removed. If snow or wind breaks a branch, pruning the affected limb correctly can improve healing. I look for crowded areas of growth and prune to increase airflow and light throughout the tree; this can lessen pest problems. I also look for branches that are interfering with others and prune to allow proper growth.

A dead branch that needed to go.

Pruning is more than just cutting off a branch. There's a right way to do it; if done correctly, the tree will naturally cover up the wound and heal well. If the pruning cut is bad, the tree may be more susceptible to insect damage, disease, or rot.

For thinning out branches, cutting off twigs from a limb is as simple as clipping or sawing it cleanly and evenly. You want to avoid leaving nubs that stick out; remove as much of the twig or branch as you can.

For removal cuts next to the trunk you'll want to determine the proper cutting angle. Look for the branch collar and branch bark ridge. These are technical names for the bulges at the base of branches. The collar is the thicker band of growth at the bottom of the branch where it grows from the trunk; the bark ridge is the crumbled area at the top where the bark of the trunk meets the bark of the branch. If a branch is cut off just outside the branch collar, about 1/4 inch, tree tissue will grow over the cut like a donut and protect it from decay. Ideally you'll want to prune off branches before they reach two inches thick. The cut will rarely be flush with the trunk and usually angles out slightly from the top to the bottom.

A cut covered with dried sap and beginning to heal

For particularly large limbs, make an initial shallow cut into the bottom of the branch about six inches or so outside the branch collar; this is to reduce the chance that the bark will strip off in the next step. Then cut completely through the branch a few inches beyond that. The third and final cut should be just outside the branch collar. Because you've already removed most of the branch, the weight and size of the final piece you're removing is very manageable.

Branches awaiting the final cut.

Some trees like elms and maples will "bleed" when cut during the winter. The oozing sap can drip for days before drying out and beginning the healing process. That's why maple syrup growers harvest the sap at this time of year. For those trees I prefer to wait until late spring or early summer. I pruned my Silver Maple at that time and had fewer problems with oozing.

I don't recommend putting a dressing on the cut. It used to be thought that applying something like a poultice to a tree wound would promote healing and protect it from harmful organisms. It's found that the opposite is often true.

Some of my pruning tools.

The tools for pruning are pretty simple. I prefer bypass pruning shears versus anvil shears for cutting small twigs; the anvil doesn't allow as close a cut in my opinion. Loppers are bigger two-handed versions of shears and cut finger size branches with no problem. Pruning saws and Japanese saws are hand-size tools that cut quickly through medium-sized limbs. A bow saw makes short work of thicker branches. And a chainsaw is unrivaled for big cuts. For tall branches, a telescoping pole pruner can reach ten feet high or more.

With practice, pruning is quick, easy, and benefits the tree and the aesthetics of the garden. Pruning fruit trees can be more complex and I'll cover that in another article. There are other issues when pruning bushes and I'll cover that later too. For now, take a good, hard look at your trees. Look for damaged branches, unsightly branches, overcrowded branches, and annoying branches. Remove them and have fun with it.